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Portuguese need 11.4 years of wages to afford buying a house

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The Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) found that Portuguese people need around 11.4 years of medium average wages to be able to buy a 100m2 home. In 2000, 11.3 years of wages were needed, reports Idealista.

House prices are growing exponentially in Portugal. Idealista reports that house prices in the first trimester of 2022 grew around 12.9%, the largest increase since 2010. 

However, since the average income of Portuguese families does not match the housing price increase, it is much harder for them to afford to purchase a property.

There are other OECD countries that have worse situations where families with the average salary take longer to afford a home. In New Zealand, families need 18.7 years of medium average wages to afford a home, the worse off country.

In South Korea they need 16.6 years, in Ireland, they need 16.1 years, in Luxembourg, they need 14.4 years, and in Australia, they need 14.4 years. These are the five countries where families take the longest to afford a 100m2 with the average salary.

The list is then followed by Greece (13 years), the Netherlands (12.9 years), France (12.8 years), Switzerland (12.6 years), Austria (11.9 years), and Hungary (11.6 years). 

The OECD reports that the number of years it takes to buy a 100m2 house with the average salary increase in almost all of the OECD. It almost doubled in some countries between 2000 and 2020. This is not the case for Portugal, with less than a 1% increase in the last 20 years. 

The OECD also concluded that inflation is increasing rental prices, reducing the income available to families renting in the private market. This worsens their financial well-being and makes it harder to save for buying a primary home.

International Guide to Real Estate in Portugal: Buying a House in Portugal

Douro Valley

Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, the Douro Valley should be on the top of your list if you are visiting the North of Portugal. The Douro Valley is a cultural landscape of vineyards where Douro wines are grown and produced at traditional wine cellars.

Departing from Porto, the Douro river flows in the middle of these green hills with vineyards. Beware, visiting the Douro Valley is quite expensive by Portuguese standards, but it is still a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, known for the highest quality cuisine and wines.

The best way to visit the Douro Valley is by hiring a private car transfer or renting a car as public transportation is scarce in the area, especially if you want to visit multiple vineyards for wine tastings. Alternatively, you can also book a stunning Douro river cruise that stops at vineyards.

Let’s take a look at the best things to do in the Douro Valley, our favorite restaurants, tours, hotels, and more with our Douro Valley Travel Guide.

Guide to Porto & Northern Portugal

5 Best Things to do in the Douro Valley Portugal

1. Visit a vineyard and have a wine tasting

The Douro Valley is best known worldwide for being a cultural landscape due to its vineyards. Douro wines, including Port wine, are grown and produced in these vineyards and wine cellars.

Many have been in the hands of families for generations. Our three favorite vineyards to visit in the Douro Valley are Quinta da Roêda (Pinhão), Quinta do Crasto (Sabrosa), and Quinta do Seixo (Valença do Douro).

Photo by Nadya Filatova (Unsplash)

Top Vineyards in the Douro Valley

Quinta da Roêda

Quinta da Roêda does not just offer Port wine tastings, but also, visits to the vineyards, picnics, workshops, and more. You can explore the gorgeous vineyard with a travel guide and have a tasting of three wines for only €12 per person. Their packages go up to €44 per person for a larger number and variety of wines.

For a luxurious and romantic lunch out with wine, you can reserve their picnic package on the shaded terrace, overlooking the vineyards and Douro river. Prices for this range from €30 to €48 per person depending on the basket selected.

Quinta do Crasto

Quinta do Crasto is included in the Top 20 of the World’s Best Vineyards, winning 16th place in 2021. Family-owned, this Quinta started producing its Douro wines back in 1994 and commercializing their Vintage Port from 1978. 

In 2000, the family also acquired the Quinta da Cabreira, a property with 150 hectares, and six years later, also bought Quinta do Querindelo to keep up with demand. 

The wine tasting here lasts around 90 minutes where you get to taste 5 of their wines, visit the port wine cellars, and more for €29 per person.

Quinta do Seixo

Quinta do Seixo has over 100 hectares and is one of the most traditional wine-producing estates in the region. The vines are over one hundred years old! The Quinta also has very advanced winemaking technology that is perfectly integrated with the landscape.

They have a variety of packages for wine-loving visitors. Their cheapest visit is €15 for a 40-minute tour of the winery and tasting of 2 port wines. Their most luxurious option is a 3-hour picnic in the vineyard where you can taste their wines and enjoy Douro cuisine for €40 per person (only available from March to October).

2. Hike in the Douro Valley

Exploring the Douro Valley region by foot is a rewarding experience. You will find beautiful vineyards and small villages along your treks. There are plenty of great hiking trails across the valley that have been marked by local authorities.

However, it is common for tourists to get lost and stray beyond the trails so keep that in mind. Also, beware that temperatures in the summer can be quite high and in the winter, it tends to rain a lot. The best time to go hiking in the Douro Valley is in the spring or fall, but do make sure to check the weather before heading out.

We recommend booking a guided hiking trail so you don’t get lost and get the most out of the experience with a local guide. Book this 4 hour guided hiking trail of 7 kilometers where you will get to discover the vineyards, olive groves, and fruit trees of the region. The hike also includes a picnic with homemade products, as well as Douro table wine and Port wine. 

Book Guided Hiking Trail in Douro Valley

3. Discover the Douro Valley by boat

The Douro Valley is best explored by boat, as the heart of the valley is the river itself. Douro boat tours provide you with the best views of the valley, as well as stop at the best vineyards so you will get to learn about the region’s wine production. Many also include traditional Portuguese lunches. Take a look at our top picks for boat tours in the Douro River.

Photo by Dim Hou (Unsplash)

Our favorite Douro Valley River boat tours:

  • Douro & Regua River Cruise: Departing from Porto, this Douro and Regua cruise on a large boat allows you to discover the Port wine region. The cruise includes a large breakfast, as well as lunch while you admire the Douro valley and goes through the 14-meter Crestuma-Lever Dam and the Carrapatelo Dam. 
  • Porto to Douro Valley All-Inclusive Cruise: One of the most popular cruises in Porto is a 9.5 hour all-inclusive Douro river cruise that allows guests to spend a full day discovering the landscapes of the Douro valley. Hop on a traditional Portuguese Rabelo boat in Porto which will take you to Peso da Regua, Pinhao, and Sabrosa. The cruise includes two spots to wine estates where you will get to taste some of the finest wines produced in the vineyards.
  • Douro Valley Small-Group Tour with Wine Tasting, Lunch and Optional Cruise: This full day tour includes a boat cruise in a small group, as well as a wine tasting in a vineyard. It also includes a traditional lunch in the scenic village of Pinhao. A guide will be with you the whole time.

Book All-Inclusive Douro Cruise

4. Visit the six Wine Villages in the Douro Valley

With over 2,000 years of wine production history, there are still many traditional small villages that remain untouched. There are six recognized Wine Valles in the Douro Valley, known as Aldeias Vinhateiras do Douro. These include Barcos, Favaios, Provesende, Trevoes, and Ucanha.

When you visit these villages, you will get to see how the locals live which in many ways has remained the same throughout history. These villages remain traditional and authentic, despite a rise in tourism. 

Our favorite village is Provesende, the nearest wine village to Pinhao which is helpful if you are traveling by train. The village contains several schist houses and even a chapel at Picote de Sao Domingo from the Iron Age. 

Provesende Village. Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)

Another top choice to visit is Trevoes on the southern side of the river. The village features views of the vineyards going downhill and the mountains above. Visit the parish church from the middle ages and the large seven chapels.

You should also visit the Trevoes Museum which celebrates the local culture and displayed the household and agricultural objects used. 

5. Explore the Alvao Natural Park

Located near the Douro Valley, Alvao natural Park is situated in the western section of the Serra do Alvao. A protected area since 1983, it is the smallest of Portugal’s natural parks and has less than 700 locals populating it.

Despite its small size, this park is a must-see if you are in the region. It is one of the most beautiful parks in Portugal due to 250 meter high cascades falling into rocks. You might also spot a wolf and a falcon, as well as other interesting animal species. 

There are many activities in Alvao Natural Park such as rafting down the watercourses of the market and hiking through the region. We also recommend trying out local restaurants and trying the park delicacies such as meatballs and roasted veal. 

Alvao Natural Park. Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)

Book Douro Valley Tours

Transportation in Douro Valley: How to get around the Douro Valley

The Douro Valley is better explored by car so we do recommend renting a vehicle. This gives you the freedom to build your own itinerary and pick out the vineyards and restaurants that you like best, without having to depend on others. 

Driving around the Douro Valley also heightens the experience. You will get to drive your way up snake-like roads that go up vineyards and mountains with breathtaking views.

You can also travel to the Douro Valley by public transport. The Douro train line has 11 daily departures to Peso da Regua and five others that continue up to Pocinho. There are many trains from Porto that are around 2 to 3 hours

However, again, you won’t have the same flexibility as you would if you rent your own car. Alternatively, if you are coming from Porto, you can also book a stunning Douro river cruise that stops at vineyards so everything is taken care of. 

Top Picks in the Douro Valley

Douro Valley Restaurants

  • Wine House, Quinta da Pacheca
  • Aneto & Table
  • Cozinha da Clara
  • Conceitus Winery Restaurant
  • DOC
  • Castas e Pratos
  • Veladouro

Douro Valley Hotels

Six Senses Douro Valley

Guide to Porto

Welsh father in coma after stabbing in Albufeira

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Joel Collins was allegedly stabbed in a resort in the city of Albufeira in the Algarve on July 4 while walking home from a night out. The 35-year-old father of four is in an induced coma, after suffering lacerations to the pancreas, lungs, intestines, and stomach.

He was found unconscious on the street and someone took him to the hospital in Faro. The victim has undergone six surgeries already and is in intensive care. His family is at his side. 

ITV News reports that the victim has limited memory of what happened. However, the hospital believes he was robbed as he did not have his personal belongings with him.

Joel only remembers getting separated from his friends on a night out and using his phone to find the way back to his hotel, according to his sister Heidi Collins.

His last memory was of getting separated from his group and getting his phone out to use Google Maps to find a route back to his hotel.

Joel’s mum told BBC Wales, “It is the most horrendous experience of my life but what his sister, his partner, and I are going through is nothing compared to what Joel is so that makes me stronger.”

A friend of Joel’s has set up a crowdfunding page for the victim’s family that has raised over £8,000 so far.

Heidi also told ITV News that  “people need to be extra vigilant when they are in the resort”. She said “the police aren’t doing anything about it” and that “these crimes are going on and nobody is aware of it.”

Faro and other Portuguese districts at maximum risk of fire

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Over 80 counties in the districts of Braganca, Vila Real, Coimbra, Viseu, Santarem, Castelo Branco, Portalegre, and Faro are at maximum risk of rural fire, reports JN

The Portuguese Institute of the Sea and Atmosphere (IPMA) said that many other countries in Portugal are at high risk and very high risk of rural fire with a yellow warning.

Faro is under an orange warning, the second highest warning due to the heat. On Monday, temperatures are expected to reach 37°C, but will then cool down as the week progresses. 

However, there are finally 11 counties in the districts of Porto and Aveiro now at reduced risk of fire.

Temperatures will decrease at the beginning of the week all over the country, except in the Algarve, where a slight increase is happening today. 

Portugal is no longer under an “alert situation” since Thursday as the fires seem to be slowly declining. However, the government will decide today whether this should be reevaluated.

The rural fires in Portugal began around two weeks ago when Portugal began experiencing its hottest heat wave yet with temperatures reaching above 40ºC. 

Three people in total have died because of the fires. Last week, an elderly couple died in a car accident fleeing a fire in Murca. The week before, a pilot fighting the fires in the north of Portugal crashed in the region of Foz Coa.

In case of emergency call 112. 

Join our FB group Portugal Travel & Living for all things Portugal

First monkeypox vaccines given in Portugal

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There are a total of 588 monkeypox cases reported in Portugal, 73 of which were notified last week, reports CNN. The first monkeypox vaccines have been given in Portugal. DGS has already began administring vaccines to those closest to the infected people.

Most of those infected with monkeypox in Portugal are between the ages of 30 and 39 years old and 99.8% are men. Only one women has been infected with monkeypox after being in contact with an infected man.

All of the regions of mainland Portugal and Madeira have reported cases of the virus, but the majority of cases (80%) have been confirmed in Lisbon and Vale do Tejo.

The other regions with the monkeypox cases are central Portugal (8), Alentejo (5), Algarve (4), and Madeira (3). 

Portugal began vaccinated people against monkeypox on July 16. The three closes contacts to infected people are the first being vaccinated. The DGS continues to call close contacts to those infected so they can get vaccinated. 

The vaccine is called Imvanex, a third-generation vaccine that is currently approved in Europe to prevent smallpox, but that is also effective against Monkeypox. 

Those with suspected symptoms should avoid “physical contact with other people and sharing clothes, towels, sheets, and personal objects while having lesions or other symptoms”, according to the DGS.

Monkeypox spreads through close contact with someone who has symptoms. Clothing, bedding, towels, or objects that have been contaminated with monkeypox can infect others.

The virus can also spread through saliva as ulcers, lesions, or sores in the mouth can be infectious. 

New Lisbon speed radars generate more than 5 million euros in a month

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Over 38,000 fines were attributed in the first 30 days of the new speed radars in Lisbon. These new 41 speed radars across the city generated at least 5.1 million euros in fines. The fines range between 120 and 1,500 euros. 

Most drivers going above the speed limit were caught in Avenida Lusiada, Avenida Padre Cruz, and Avenida Infante Dom Henrique. There were 38,018 fines attributed, representing an average of 1,267 speed infractions a day in the capital.

Of all fines in Lisbon, 34,745 were considered serious and 3,456 very serious.

A serious infraction can lead to a fine between 120 to 600 euros, with a driving sanction between one month to a year. A serious infraction refers to going above the speed between 20 to 40 kilometers an hour above the speed limit.

A very serious infraction can lead to a fine between 300 to 1,500 euros, with a driving sanction that can lead up to two years. Driving between 40 to 60 kilometers an hour above the speed limit, this is considered a very serious infraction. 

With these values, CNN Portugal predicts that the minimum amount the new speed radars generated in less than a month is 5.1 million euros. This calculation was made with the minimum fine amount of 120 euros (serious) and 300 euros (very serious). Therefore, it is very likely that the fine value is way above this prediction.

 However, the municipality of Lisbon did not want to publicize the amount generated from the fines. The entity also reminded the public that some of these infractions might belong to ambulances or police vehicles in emergencies. 

The largest infraction recorded was in Segunda Circular near the gas station Repsol, with an infraction of 240 kilometers an hour recorded. This speed is 120 kilometers an hour over the maximum speed allowed on Portuguese highways. 

Guide to Driving in Portugal

9 Best Live Music Spots in Lisbon

From Jazz to Rock, Fado is not the only genre of live music to enjoy in Lisbon. While the typical melancholic genre of music is heard all around Lisbon, particularly in Amalia Rodrigues’ birthplace of Alfama, the city has a versatile music scene.

Whether you are looking to enjoy some dinner with live music or sit in a less crowded bar listening to up-and-coming artists, we have selected our favorite spots throughout Lisbon. Here are the 9 best live music spots in Lisbon, Portugal, a city filled with outstanding musical experiences.

1. Ze dos Bois Gallery

A leader in the Lisbon music scene for almost three decades, Ze dos Bois Gallery, known as ZDB, is not just a music hotspot, but also a place for exhibitions and events. ZDB hosts over 150 art events per year, as well as groundbreaking music and dance performances. 

ZDB is one of the best places in the city to grab a drink and listen to live music, surrounded by an alternative crowd. The space features an outdoor terrace for warm summer nights, as well as an indoor space with a large seating area.

Whether you’re looking to dance the night away or sit quietly while enjoying some Jazz, ZDB has a night for you. Make sure to check out their program online to find the live music night that fits your taste the best. 

Photo provided by establishment.

2. Fabrica Braco de Prata

Located in the building that was once the War Material Factory, Fabrica Braco de Prata open in 2007. It was one of the first places to kickstart a new cultural environment in Oriente, Lisbon. 

Although Fabrica Braco de Prata is known for its live music shows, it also features a restaurant, bar, and even a bookstore. The likes of Salvador Sobral, the Portuguese winner of Eurovision in 2017 regularly perform here. 

Fabrica Braco de Prata is home to 12 rooms that host all kinds of cultural events. From live music concerts, dance classes, and even raves, you can find all kinds of musical events here. Make sure to check out their online program. 

3. MusicBox

Located in Cais do Sodre on the iconic Pink Street, MusicBox is one of the best spots for live music in Lisbon. Inaugurated in 2006, this club has music playing every day of the week, of which many include live music performances. 

Hosting DJs and live bands, Music Box is an integral part of the cultural life of the capital where guests can enjoy live music from 0:00 to 6:00 in the morning. Check out their program on their website. You can actually filter between clubbing and concerts.

MusicBox has recently also become involved in other music projects, such as the Jameson Urban Routes, the first indoor festival in Portugal boasting urban music.

4. Ma Lingua

A relatively recent bar in Graca, a trendy neighborhood in Lisbon, Ma Lingua is owned by Megan and Fabio. The bar features a basement with high ceilings where jam sessions and acoustic concerts are hosted, as well as readings and cinema circles. This place aims to become a cultural hotspot, also featuring art and photography exhibitions, PubQuizzes, and more. 

If you’re looking to enjoy some live music over dinner, this is the spot for you. Ma Lingua serves delicious bites such as fresh ceviche and burrata in a homemade tomato sauce. 

Recently, the bar has also started a weekly comedy night called “Bad Tongue Comedy”, as well as an open mic night for the brave ones to showcase their talent. Ma Lingua is open until 2 am on weekend nights. 

Photo provided by establishment.

5. Fado in Chiado

With over a decade of experience, Fado in Chiado was one of the first places to host a daily live traditional fado show, accompanied by a guitar and viola, with two singers, a feminine and masculine voice for a full Portuguese experience.

The show is a little less than an hour in the Chiado district and you will get to experience the melancholic vibes of the traditional musical genre of fado. Book this ticket to skip the line to this iconic cultural experience. Drinks are not included in the ticket price, but we recommend ordering a classic Port wine. 

Book ticket here to skip the line

6. Cafe Dias

Located in Santo Amaro, Cafe Dias is conveniently situated only a 10-minute walk from Lx Factory. An epicenter for Jazz, the bar regularly hosts jam sessions and live concerts in a cozy but modern environment.

But what makes this one of our favorite places goes beyond the music. Cafe Dias has some delicious petiscos (Portuguese tapas), such as croquettes and Portuguese empanadas. They also serve the traditional Portuguese ham and cheese toastie which is to die for.  

Cafe Dias also features a lovely outdoor terrace where performances take place, making it the perfect place for a summer night. 

Photo provided by establishment.

7. Alface Hall

Located in the center of Bairro Alto in a building from the 18th century, Alface Hall is a bar and hotel. There are few places left in Bairro Alto that still have live music, unfortunately. Alface Hall is one of the last spots that keeps the live music scene alive in Bairro Alto, a neighborhood known for its nightlife.

Alface Hall’s bar is quite small, offering a cozy and inviting atmosphere. You can find all kinds of live music performances, from jazz to rock and soul. 

If you are lucky enough to be staying at the hostel, you can enjoy daily live music right at your footsteps. The hostel features shared dormitories at an affordable price, as well as private rooms.

8. Pharmacia Musical

Hugo Fernandes, the cellist that founded Pharmacia Musical says that the live music bar seeks “transformation through art”. The founder opened the bar in a laundromat in Rua Damasceno Monteiro.

The space is inspired by a pharmacy from Penha de Franca, with furniture and jars that represent it. While the space is quite small, this actually makes the bar more inviting as you will feel like you are listening to live music in a friend’s apartment. 

The live music concerts are free of charge and there are multiple music genres performed every day, from jazz to classical music. You can check out their daily program online.

9. Tokyo

Tokyo is a Cais do Sodre classic that has been around for decades. Founded in 1968 by the name of Tamisa, what is known today as Tokyo is a live music hotspot from Tuesdays to Saturdays. 

The bar is full of interesting musical history. In the late 70s, it became one of the most popular spots for live music, with iconic Rock singers taking its stage. In 2012, Tokyo underwent a revamp, with the colors, logos, and bar being altered to improve the customer experience.

However, the rock & roll environment of the previous decades remains. Still, along with rock live music, Tokyo now also hosts Quizomba nights and other nights will a larger diversity of music genres.
 

Russian oligarch obtains Portuguese passport

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Publico reported on Wednesday that Roman Abramovich is not the only Russian oligarch that obtained citizenship through the Jewish Law of Return. The billionaire Andre Rappoport has also received a Portuguese passport.

Russian oligarch Andre Rappoport received his Portuguese passport on December 30, 2019, after being certified as a Sephardic Jew by the Israeli Community of Porto (CIP). 

With a 1.2 fortune evaluated by Forbes, Rappoport was born in the ex-soviet republic of Ukraine in 1963. In the 90s, he managed Alfa-Bank, and in the early 2000s, he supervised the state energy companies in Russia, eventually becoming president of the Federal Grid Company. 

Six years later, Rappoport took over Energostroyinvest-Holding, at the time the largest construct of electric grids in Russia. He sold his company to Abramovich. 

Abramovich also received a Portuguese passport through the Jewish Law of Return in 2015. 

Russian oligarch and ex-vice-president of the World Jewish Congress, God Nisanov, and Lev Leviev, known as the “king of diamonds,” are awaiting their Portuguese naturalization. 

Nisanov was honored in July of 2014 by Putin at the Kremlin with the Order of Friendship. He requested naturalization through the Jewish Law of Return in Portugal on June 26, 2020.

What is the Jewish Law of Return in Portugal?

Under the Jewish Law of Return, the Portuguese government grants Portuguese citizenship through naturalization to the descendants of Portuguese Sephardic Jews who were expelled from Portugal during the Portuguese Inquisition.

By January 2022, there were over 50,000 cases granted, with around 80,000 pending. Russian billionaire Roman Abramovich got Portuguese citizenship through this law.

How to Get Portuguese Citizenship

Bia and Kikas’ Perfect Day Off in Coimbra

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“Coimbra is the land of fado, love, and saudades, those who come here take Coimbra in their heart. Coimbra is a love for life, a lesson”, says Bia. Saudade represents a feeling of longing and nostalgia, one that is untranslatable and is often a recurring theme in fado. 

Born and bred in Coimbra, Bia and Kikas are a couple in their 50s that started their Portuguese blog “Amar Viajar e Petiscar” 8 years ago on a summer day in August, after becoming empty nesters. Since then, they have shared their Portuguese travel experiences with their 50,000+ followers on Instagram. 

Too often forgotten, Coimbra is located in Central Portugal but has been making waves as a city to look out for. It is no surprise that Bia and Kikas chose Coimbra as their chosen city for a perfect day off in Portugal.

To start the day off right, the couple heads to the historic Cafe Santa Cruz for breakfast in the center of the old town. Located next to a 12th-century monastery, the cafe has been around for over 500 years and was honored with Coimbra’s Gold Medal in 2013.

If the sun is shining, they enjoy a signature tosta mista with an orange juice on the terrace, offering views of Praça 8 de Maio, an emblematic square. They also order an espresso, calling the quality of the coffee “excellent”. 

With full hearts and bellies, they decide to take a walk through the city. Bia and Kikas start their stroll at the University of Coimbra, one of the oldest universities in the world, founded in 1537. Along with Alta (the uptown), the University of Coimbra is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Photo by Henrique Macedo (Unsplash)

The couple visits the Joanine Library, which they deem the “crown of the university”. Built in the early 18th century at the orders of King John V to house the vast book collection of the University of Coimbra, the library feels like a page out of a Harry Potter book. Containing over 50,000 books, many dating back as far as the 16th century, the library is free to visit. 

The exterior of the library features stone walls with gold accents and a roof covered by clay tiles. The interior was intricately ornamented by painters and craftsmen, decorating the stone floor with geometric motifs and the ceilings with trompe-l’oeil paintings.

Bia warns me that you are not allowed to take photographs inside Joanine Library. Instead, enjoy your surroundings without technology. 

Joanine Library. Photo by Xiquinhosilva (Flickr)

But if you are looking for Insta-worthy shots, their next stop doesn’t disappoint. Bia and Kikas walk up the 180 steps to the University Tower to enjoy “a majestic view of the Mondego River and the university”. 

The University Tower holds a bell that has always played a central role in the daily life of university students. The daily activities of the university were once organized according to the bell and even today, the bell still marks specific hours of the daily life of students.

They then head to the Sala dos Capelos, the most important room in the university where major ceremonies are held. Multiple kings of the first Portuguese Dynasty stepped foot through these doors and celebrated marking events in this very same room. 

Featuring classic paintings of Portuguese kings, glass-stained ceilings, and luxurious red carpets, this room is bound to leave a mark. A series of traditional azulejo tiles line the lower part of the walls, all produced in Lisbon. 

Bia and Kikas’ next stop – the Botanical Garden. While the garden of the University of Coimbra was founded in 1772, it was developed mostly by botanist Luis Carrisso in the 20th century. Carrisso enriched the Botanical Garden with exotic African plans, many coming from Angola. 

Botanical Garden. Photo by Marco Varisco (Flickr)

The Botanical Garden is considered one of the most beautiful in all of Europe. Bia and Kikas spend time taking photographs at the site which occupies 13 hectares. Featuring greenhouses with tropical plants, an area for cultivation for botany students, and a valley with a small stream, this place feels like a breath of fresh air in nature. 

A 10-minute walk away, Bia and Kikas head to Sé Nova, a 1600s cathedral that features statues of four Jesuit saints in the Baroque style. The cathedral is free to enter and features beautiful gold-covered altarpieces from the 18th century. 

Sé Nova de Coimbra. Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)

They then head down the Escadas do Quebra Costas, an “idyllic” stairway that is a “must-see”. Bia says that “you will find various little houses with memorabilia, bars, and restaurants” in a quaint environment.

The couple makes a stop at Chocolataria Equador, a chocolatier shop that features the best chocolate in Coimbra. They order the truffles like always and accompany the dessert with a Port wine or a Ginja, a Portuguese liquor. 

After all that walking, it’s time for lunch. The couple walks a short distance to Italia, a restaurant in the Docks of Coimbra. The Italian restaurant brings the couple back to fond memories and the price tag is worth it. With the Mondego River at their feet, they feast on mouth-watering pizzas and pasta of all kinds.

Restaurante Italia, Coimbra.

Bia left us with other appetizing restaurant recommendations such as Cordel Maneirista near the S. Francisco Convent. This place services traditional Portuguese food such as cabrito no forno as well as brunch menus with vegetarian options. 

Praxis is another restaurant with quality artisanal beer and a “good steak with fries”, a Portuguese staple. 

After lunch at Italia, they enjoy an afternoon stroll to Parque Verde do Mondego. With the Mondego River as the main protagonist, this park is over 400,000 meters squared. The park features walking paths, a skate park, and a volleyball area.

Snap a photo with your loved one of the Mondego River and for an unusual one, find the large green bear sculpture, made of grass. 

The couple then heads to Baixa, the historical center of Coimbra and where the student life comes alive. They walk through the Praça da República, a main square surrounded by restaurants, bars, and students rushing to class.

By now, it’s time for lanche. You read that right, not lunch! The Portuguese have four meals a day, and lanche is one of the most important. It’s more than just a snack in between lunch and dinner. 

Bia and Kikas head to O Croissant in Praça 8 de Maio, a restaurant serving pancakes, bowls, and unique salted croissants such as the avocado croissant with cherry tomatoes and a fried egg. 

For a more traditional Portuguese lanche, the couple recommends Moinho Velho, a bakery serving quality bread of all kinds, perfect for a torrada com manteiga (toast with butter), as well as delicious pastries. 

Bia and Kikas then head to a bar called Passaporte. They order a cocktail on the terrace and enjoy the stunning view of the sun setting on the Mondego River.

Passaporte bar in Coimbra.

After the sun has set, the couple heads to a new restaurant that has only recently opened up but has already become one of the most popular in the area. Santa Sede is located in Celas, serving appetizing cuisine in a sophisticated environment with live music. 

They also recommend Solar do Bacalhau, a restaurant that serves codfish in various different ways, from bacalhau com natas to bacalhau à brás. As the Portuguese say, there are 1001 ways of cooking cod. 

Alternatively, Refeitro da Baixa combines Mediterranean gastronomy with the art of pottery. This place serves elaborate dishes and has pottery displays that visitors can purchase. Pottery workshops are also available for those looking to get their hands dirty after lunch. 

After dinner, Bia and Kikas meet up with friends for coffee on the terrace of Cafe S. Jose, a coffee shop that is open until midnight. Although the cafe might not have views of the river or a large cathedral, the laughter of friends marks the perfect ending for a perfect day. 

Check out Bia and Kikas’ Instagram @amarviajarpetiscar to follow their travel and gastronomy experiences all over Portugal.  

Bia and Kikas’ Top Hotel Picks in Coimbra

Guide to Coimbra

Elderly couple dies driving away from fire in Portugal

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A couple over 70 years old was found dead on Monday inside a carbonized car in the village of Penabeice, in Murça. The couple was involved in a car accident after an attempt to drive away from a major fire.

The Civil Protection is investigating incident but has said that while driving away from a fire, the car went off the road and then turned over.

The commander of the Civil Protection, Andre Fernandes said: “We are sorry for the death of these two victims. It’s an area where the fire was developing, but the operationals are on the field, including the GNR, so we can be sure of how the accident occurred”. When more information is available, it will be made public.

CM Portugal reports that the victims were at home when the fire spread close to their property, leading them to drive away and have an accident.

The couple’s names are unknown, but they were 70 and 72 years old. They were Portuguese emigrants in France who had returned to the village of Penabeice for a vacation.

Fernandes said that this incident increases the death rate related to the fires in Portugal to 3 people after the death of a pilot on Friday.

The fire in Murça began during the weekend and is worsening. The authorities evacuated people from dangerous areas, but this was difficult as many did not want to leave their homes, according to SIC Noticias.

There are over 258 operationals fighting the fire, supported by 86 vehicles and five aircrafts.