It was announced last week that the oldest dog in the world is Portuguese, a Rafeiro do Alentejo named Bobi, who lives in Leiria. Two weeks prior, Guinness World Records had announced Spike, a 23-year-old chihuahua, as the oldest dog living, but this has since been amended.
Bobi is not just the oldest dog living, he’s the oldest dog ever, born on May 11, 1992.
Bobi took Bluey’s 100-year record as the oldest dog ever, an Australian dog that lived between 1910 and 1939, dying at 29 years old and five months.
Bobi lives in Conqueiros, Leiria, with the Costa family. He is a Rafeiro do Alentejo, a breed from Alentejo used as a guard dog for cattle herding. These dogs have an average life expectancy of 12/14 years.
Bobbi was set to be put down as a puppy, along with his siblings. Fortunately, his current owner, Leonel Costa, was able to hide him.
Three decades later, the owner of Bobi believes that the secret to his dog’s longevity is the fact that he roams freely without being tied to a chain or leash and that he is well-fed and loved.
Bobi only eats human food without seasoning and drinks about 1 liter of water a day. Bobi is also very social and loves spending time with other animals.
Every year, Portugal’s tourism industry keeps growing as more and more people realize all that it has to offer. However, unfortunately, many tourists only spend a week in Portugal, usually in Lisbon, and miss out on the rest of the country.
The longer you spend in Portugal, the better! If you are looking to explore as much of Portugal in a three-week time frame, our 21-day itinerary has got you covered.
Starting in the north of Portugal and going all the way south, this route is best achieved by car. In reality, except for the main cities, Portugal is not very well traveled by public transport, so driving is your best option.
Also, keep in mind that you do not necessarily need to sleep in each of the following places for a successful trip. Some places are close to each other and if you find a better hotel deal elsewhere, stick to what best fits your budget.
Day 1: Arrive in Porto
Our 3 week itinerary of Portugal begins in the great city of Porto, the second-largest in Portugal and one recently booming with tourism. Porto lies along the Douro river and features one of the oldest historical centers in Europe, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996.
Particularly if you are coming from far, your arrival day will probably consist mostly of getting settled and relaxing. However, we do recommend exploring the historical center on your first day, walking around to get situated.
For a quick walk, find the outside of Livraria Lello, one of the oldest bookstores in the country, founded in 1906. Igreja do Carmo is also close by, a beautiful baroque church with a facade of Portuguese blue azulejos (tiles) made locally in Vila Nova de Gaia, across the Douro river from Porto.
Then walk by the large Clérigos Tower, built in 1763 by Italian architect Nicolau Nasoni, the Clérigos Tower offers a panoramic view of the historical center of Porto. At 75 meters high, visitors can climb 225 steps to the top of the tower, which is worth the workout but perhaps not if you’re jet-lagged.
NH Hotel Porto Jardim: This four-star hotel feels like its five stars. It has a 70 cm deep outdoor people, a spa a few meters away, and a gym. It is located within walking distance of main attractions like Bolhão market, Aliados Avenue, and Ribeira. If you have a dog or cat, this hotel is pet-friendly.
Vila Gale Porto: Vila Gale is a well-known chain of hotels in Portugal and is always a safe option. This one was built in 1999 and recently renovated. The hotel has a spa with an indoor pool, a gym, a restaurant, and two bars.
Hotel Premium Porto Downtown: Located in the old town, this modern 4-star hotel has a sun terrace with views of the city of Porto, the perfect place to enjoy some port wine. You’ll be close to everything you need, Santa Catarina street, Aliados Avenue, and the cathedral.
Day 2 is really the first day of your Portugal trip. We recommend starting the morning at one of the most famous monuments in Porto – Bolsa Palace.
Palacio da Bolsa’s construction began in 1842 by the Porto Commercial Association on the ruins of the Saint Francis Convent. The name Palácio da Bolsa translates into “Stock Exchange Palace”.
Palacio da Bolsa. Photo by Kevin Ohashi
Then head to Porto Cathedral, known as Sé do Porto. This Roman Catholic cathedral is a national monument and the most important religious building in all of Porto. The Porto Cathedral still holds a mass every day at 11 am that you can attend for free.
Do not miss Sao Bento Railway Station. A 20th-century railway station in the historical center of Porto, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, São Bento Railway Station is a lot more than just a place of transport.
Home to over 20,000 azulejo tiles, it is a place of culture. The station was built in 1903 and is covered with thousands of these tiles made by Jorge Colaço. His work covers an area of over 550 m2 and depicts important moments of Portuguese history including the Discoveries.
Also, if you haven’t yet gone inside Livraria Lello, this would be the day to do it. Entrance to Livraria Lello used to be free, but they were getting 4,000 visits a day with long lines and less than 5% would buy a book. Now the tickets cost €5. Kids under three years old have free entrance.
Livraria Lello. Photo by Ivo Rainha (Unsplash.
If you are up for a scenic walk of the Douro river, walk the Dom Luis I bridge to Vila Nova de Gaia. Built in 1886 by designer and co-founder of the Eiffel company Théophile Seyrig, visitors can walk across the 60-meter-high bridge on the upper level of the bridge.
Walking through the 1-kilometer bridge, you will have one of the best views of the Douro river, as well as easy access to Vila Nova de Gaia. If you’re up for dinner in Gaia, head to Enoteca or Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau.
We also recommend heading to a fado house, especially at night. Most fado houses offer you a Port wine glass to enjoy with the live show. Book this Fado Live Show in Porto for an intimate setting in Casa da Guitarra near Sé.
For day 3, why not partake in a unique experience where you get to see more of the city in a unique way? A tuk tuk tour is a great way to see the whole city, getting to places that might be tiring and time-consuming on foot.
Here are our three favorite tuk tuk tours in Porto:
Porto’s unique location offers incredible access to the region of Douro. The Douro Valley was made a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in the early 2000s. Departing from Porto and ending in Spain, the Douro river flows in the middle of the Douro Valley, a cultural landscape of vineyards where Douro wines are grown and produced.
The best way to visit the Douro Valley is by booking a tour as transportation is scarce in the area, especially if you want to visit multiple vineyards for wine tastings. We, therefore, recommend booking a Douro vineyard “hopping” tour so that you can experience a variety of locations.
For a more elevated experience, book this river cruise from Porto where you will get to stop at various wineries for tastings, with lunch included.
You can also rent your own car and book the vineyard tours yourself. Our favorite vineyards to visit are:
Quinta da Roêda (Pinhão): Along with wine tastings, this vineyard offers picnics, workshops, and more. You can explore the gorgeous vineyard with a guided tour and have a tasting of three wines for only €12 per person. Their packages go up to €44 per person for a larger number and variety of wines.
Quinta do Crasto (Sabrosa): One of the Top 20 of the World’s Best Vineyards, the wine tasting here lasts around 90 minutes where you get to taste 5 of their wines, visit the wine cellars, and more for €29 per person.
Quinta do Seixo (Valença do Douro): This place has over 100 hectares of vineyards. Their cheapest visit is €15 for a 40-minute tour of the winery and tasting of 2 port wines. Their most luxurious option is a 3-hour picnic in the vineyard where you can taste their wines and enjoy Douro cuisine for €40 per person.
Only a 45-minute drive from Porto, Braga is the largest city in the region of Minho. We recommend spending a night or two here, at least. It is the oldest city in Portugal, boasting over 30 churches.
We recommend heading to the city’s main attraction first, the Sanctuary of Bom Jesus do Monte. Locate on the top of a hill, you will have to climb a large staircase. However, the view is worth it!
Once you reach the top, behind the church, you can explore a park with several chapels, flower beds, secluded benches, and caves surrounded by vegetation, as well as a lake with rowing boats.
Then, go to Republic Square, where a beautiful fountain and a sign with the name of the city welcome visitors. It is the perfect place for a photo!
In this same square, Rua do Souto begins, the main street of the historic center and closed for pedestrians only, you’ll find that Braga’s main points of interest are all within walking distance. The Torre de Menagem is also a beautiful sight, as well as the Cathedral de Braga.
Also, head to the Image Museum, a space dedicated to photography within a beautiful medieval tower that opened in 1996. The Image Museum has over 200,000 images taken by classic and contemporary photographers.
You will also find a display of cameras from throughout the decades, as well as a library with magazines and photography books.
Burgus Tribute & Design Hotel: Located in the heart of Braga’s historic center, Burgus Tribute & Design Hotel is close to popular attractions such as Biscainhos Museum. The modern 4-star hotel provides features a restaurant, private parking, a bar, and a lovely shared lounge.
Melia Braga Hotel & Spa: Maria Braga Hotel & Spa is a luxury 5-star hotel less than 2 kilometers from the city center. This place features a large spa with indoor and outdoor pools, a hot tub, and a sauna.
Hotel do Parque: Located in a 19th century-building surrounded by romantic gardens, the Hotel do Parque is less than 4 kilometers from the center of Braga. The hotel features a spa, a piano bar, and modern rooms equipped with LCD satellite TV and a minibar.
Best Restaurants in Braga
Casa de Pasto das Carvalheiras
Bira dos Namorados
Cozinha da Se
Naco na Pedra
Esperanca Verde
Day 7: Monsanto
Some might disagree on this one due to the distance, but the interior of Portugal should not be forgotten! Known as a village within stones and once titled “the most typical Portuguese village of all” in a 1938 contest during the Estado Novo regime, Monsanto is a special place.
A 3:30 hour drive from Braga, it is near the city of Castelo Branco, which is also worth the visit. Monsanto is on the official route of Portuguese historical villages. Its history dates back to the country’s foundation, later on belonging to the Order of the Knights Templar.
in late 2022, it was announced that the Game of Thrones prequel House of the Dragon was filmed in the iconic village of Monsanto!
The main attraction in the village is Monsanto Castle. Sitting on top of the hill, this fortified castle was built in 1165 by Gualdim Pais, master of the Knights Templar.
The Monsanto ruins can be visited at the top of the hill, where you will find views that stretch as far as the Serra da Estrela and Spain. Next to the castle, you will find unique ruins of a Roman chapel.
You should also head to Lucano tower, also known as the watch tower. This building features the famous “Galo de Prato” which is a symbol of its achievement during the Estado Novo. In 1938, Monsanto village received the award “of the most Portuguese village in Portugal” in the Galo de Prata awards, given by the dictator Salazar himself.
Watch tower. Photo by Miguel Silva (Unsplash)
If you want a guided tour, we recommend booking this full-day tour of Monsanto, Idanha-a-Velha, and Penha Garcia. This tour from the city of Castelo Branco lasts around 8 hours, stopping in the historic village of Idanha-a-Velha on the way to Monsanto.
You can then enjoy a walking tour through the historic area of the village, stopping at the most important points, including the Lucano Tower, the Monsanto Castle, and beautiful churches.
The end of your trip stops at Penha Garcia, where you will see the windmills and the waterfall of the river beach.
A 2-hour drive from Monsanto, Coimbra should be your next stop. We recommend staying for two days at least.
Your first stop should be the University of Coimbra, one of the oldest universities in the world. To get to the university, start from the Almedina Tower, the entrance gate forming part of the wall surrounding the old city situated in the lower section of the city. Here, you can explore the alleys that date back to the 8th century.
Coimbra University. Photo by Ray in Manila (Flickr)
Visit the Joanine Library, a Baroque library situated in the center of the University of Coimbra, by the university tower. The library was built in the 18th century, and it is considered a national monument with priceless historical value. For a full experience, book a tour of the university.
We also recommend taking a walk in the Botanical garden, one of the oldest in Portugal. With 13 hectares of beauty, the garden was established in 1772 by the Marquis de Pombal with the purpose of supplementing the study of medicine and natural history at the University of Coimbra.
Next, visit the Santa Cruz Monastery and the Convent of Santa Clara, built in 1314. If you still have time, head to Quinta das Lagrimas. This estate has been the setting for the forbidden romance between King D. Pedro I and Inês de Castro. The gardens have a canal, “Fonte dos Amores” that, according to the legend, transported love letters between the Estate and the Royal Palace.
Best Hotels in Coimbra
Hotel Quinta das Lagrimas: A 5-star hotel, Hotel Quinta das Lagrimas is located in a historic medieval palace that was recently renovated. Featuring botanical gardens and a luxurious spa with views of the city, as well as a 9-hole golf course, this hotel has all the facilities you need and more.
Solar Antigo Luxury Coimbra: Located in the heart of Coimbra, only 400 meters from the University of Coimbra, Solar Antigo Luxury Coimbra is a 4-star boutique hotel that features views of the city. A historical building, its traditional architecture has been kept intact while including all the modern amenities necessary for a comfortable stay.
Best Restaurants in Coimbra
Ze Manel dos Ossos
Solar do Bacalhau
O Trovador
Day 10: Fatima
A 1-hour drive from Coimbra, Fatima is a hot spot for religious tourism. However, you do not need to be religious to enjoy this city due to its cultural value. Fátima is therefore not only known as a religious site, but the city is also filled with cultural activities. From lighting a candle at the sanctuary for a loved one to visiting local villages, the city has a lot to offer.
We recommend visiting the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Fatima first. The main square of the Sanctuary of Fátima is huge! The perfect place to start. It’s larger than the square of the Vatican and can hold thousands of people. You can gauge the beautiful Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary and enjoy how enormous, but yet peaceful, the whole religious site feels.
Inside the sanctuary, you will find the basilica, known as “Basilica da Nossa Senhora do Rosário” in Portuguese, a limestone church built between the 1920s and 50s. It has a 65-meter bell tower and a statue of Our Lady of Fátima. at the entrance to the church. The church is decorated in Baroque style. Inside, the church has a 12,000-piece organ, 14 altars, and incredible stained-glass windows.
The Sanctuary of Fatima. Photo by Natacha de Hepcée (Unsplash)
However, there are also great activities outside of Fatima. Known as “Gruta de Moinhos Velhos,” this cave is over 9 kilometers in extension and a 20-minute drive from the sanctuary. It is the biggest cave found in Portugal. The cave was first entered by humans in 1947. The caves are located in the Limestone Mountains, which form the Estremadura Limestone Massif.
The Natural Monument of Dinosaur Footprints is also a great activity. This dinosaur track site was discovered in 1994 by João Carvalho, a member of the local archeology association. Its located around 10 kilometers from Fátima in the heart of the Serras d’Aire e Candeeiros Natural Park.
The footprints are over 175 million years old and were created by sauropods, dinosaurs with small heads and long tails and necks. This place has some of the longest dinosaur tracks in the world, with the longest footprint measuring 147 meters long.
Best Hotels in Fatima
Hotel Santa Maria: This four-star hotel is a 2-minute walk from the sanctuary. Hotel Santa Maria has a modern interior, spacious rooms, as well as a meditation room and chapel. The terrace on the fourth floor provides amazing views of the sanctuary.
Steyler Fátima Hotel Congress & Spa: Steyler Fátima is only 100 meters away from the sanctuary. The four-star hotel has large modern rooms with terraces, a Portuguese restaurant, a chapel for praying, and even a kids club.
Hotel Dom Goncalo & Spa: This four-star boutique hotel is less than a 10-minute walk from the sanctuary. You can enjoy the wellness center here, as well as the outdoor garden with a playground for the kids.
Best Restaurants in Fatima
Tia Alice
Manhas
Arcos de Fatima
Restaurante O Leque
Kansha
Day 11: Nazare
Nazare is home to the largest surfable waves on the planet, particularly Praia do Norte. Nazare became the stuff of surfing legend in 2011 when Garret McNamara conquered the world’s biggest wave at Nazare’s Praia do Norte.
Since then, it has become a place of pilgrimage for the world’s most dauntless surf riders, with Brazilian surfer Rodrigo Koxa outdoing McNamara and setting the world’s Guinness record for surfing the world’s largest 24.4m wave in 2017.
Nazare. Photo by Karim Sakhibgareev (Unsplash)
Besides spotting some waves and surging, there is a lot to do in Nazare. Nazare boasts a beautiful funicular trip. This is like a modernized 19th-century train that connects downtown and sitio, the uptown of Nazare. You can walk between these two main areas, but for the best view of Nazare, we recommend the funicular.
The funicular of Nazare runs every 15 minutes and is 318 meters long. You will get views of the town, beach, and the vast Atlantic ocean.
When you get o sitio, we recommend walking around the square and streets, offering cute stores with hand-crafted souvenirs. There is also a range of seafood restaurants you should not miss.
Photo by Magda B (Unsplash)
We also recommend visiting a stunning 16th-century church known as the church of the Nossa Senhora das Areias, this beautiful building looks similar to other Portuguese churches on the outside. However, when you walk inside, you get to witness the unique and rich architecture of this Catholic church. An altar stands in the middle of the church in gilded gold, with other gold accents throughout the building.
There is no better place to experience the authentic atmosphere of a seaside town than at the local market. The Mercado Municipal de Nazare boasts a lively and inviting environment featuring colorful stalls of all kinds. From organic vegetables and fresh fish to Portuguese pastries, this place is bound to call your name.
A one-hour drive away from Nazare, Ericeira is a seaside town in Mafra, Ericeira is known to many as the surfing capital of Europe. The only World Surfing Reserve in Europe, Ericeira has the perfect coastline conditions for surfing.
If you want to do some surfing while you’re there, we recommend booking a surf class! Being labeled a surfing reserve, Ericeira is a protected surfing area covering 3 kilometers of great wave quality. The official Ericeira World Surfing Reserve spots are Cave, Pedra Branca, Reef, Crazy Left, Ribeira D’Ilhas, Coxos, and Sao Lourenco.
For a regular beach day, Ericeira also has some amazing beaches. One of our favorite beaches in Ericeira is Foz Do Lizandro, 3 kilometers from the center of town. The river Lizandro flows through this beach onto the ocean, providing a warmer alternative to those who do not wish to swim in the colder and more volatile sea.
Ericeira. Photo by Adam Hornyak (Unsplash)
Another great beach is Praia dos Pescadores, the most central beach in Ericeira. Along with being within walking distance from the center, the “Fishermen’s beach” features beautiful fishing boats and is a family favorite.
Ericeira is also well-known for hikers as it has several trails, providing both a rural feel and breathtaking ocean views. You can check these out on official trail maps or ask the locals. One of your favorite hikes is over 10 kilometers, starting in Ericeira and going through Santo Isidoro, Paco de Ilhas, Marvao, and ending finally in Ribamar.
On one of your days in Ericeira, we recommend visiting Mafra, a beautiful city located a 10-minute drive from Ericeira. Mafra is best known for being the home of the Mafra National Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site constructed in Baroque style.
This four-square-km palace is open to the public and includes the royal palace and chapel, a monastery, and one of the most stunning libraries in Portugal with over 30,000 books. There are over 1,200 rooms in the place and two bell towers housing the world’s largest bell collections.
Lisbon is a 40-minute drive from Ericeira. On your first day, we recommend heading to Sao Jorge Castle. The 5th-century palace was restored in 1938 by the dictatorship of Salazar to look the way it is presented now.
Tourists can visit the castle complex, which consists of the castle itself, the ruins of the royal palace, gardens, and a terraced square with panoramic views of the city. A ticket to visit costs between €5 and €10. You can also pay a little extra to skip the line.
A 5-minute walk away, head to Alfama, the oldest neighborhood in Lisbon and the home of fado. Explore the neighborhood and look out for Fado spots, as well as historical monuments such as the Lisbon Cathedral, the Convent of the Grace, and more.
After that, take the train to Belem. Belem lies along the Tejo Estuary and is home to two UNESCO sites, Torre de Belem and Mosteiro dos Jeronimos.
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos is a former monastery in Belém constructed in Portuguese Late Gothic Manueline style, and you can visit the church for free. A 2-minute walk from the monastery, head to Pasteis de Belem where the traditional Portuguese custard tart was first invented.
Lisbon, Portugal. Photo by Raja Sen (Unsplash)
If you’re looking for a night out, walk to Bairro Alto, the most popular area for drinking outdoors. Tons of locals and tourists line the streets of Bairro Alto with a beer in hand. We recommend Ze dos Bois Gallery, a musical center that has live music and serves tasty drinks.
On your second day, we recommend a guided tour of Lisbon so you get to see as much as you can of the capital. For your second day in Lisbon, here are the best-guided tours to explore the city:
Lisbon 3-Hour Sightseeing Tour by Tuk Tuk: This tuk-tuk tour rides up and down the hills of Lisbon, going through the city’s oldest neighborhoods and main attractions.
Lisbon Hop-On Hop-Off Bus Tour: Book a 24-hour ticket which includes an audio guide. This affordable ticket allows you to visit different routes and hop in as you would like.
Lisbon 3-Hour Tour by E-Bike: This tour allows you to cycle through Lisbon on comfortable e-bikes with a guided tour. You will get to visit different viewpoints and historical attractions.
Best Hotels in Lisbon
Inspira Liberdade Boutique Hotel: Awarded the Best Luxury Green Hotel in 2019, Inspira Liberdade provides a relaxing Feng-Shui vibe for its guests. The hotel has a SPA, fitness room, bar, and a restaurant with Portuguese food called Pen Brasserie Mediterrânica.
Selena Secret Garden: The hostel also has a rooftop deck, CoWork space for professionals, and a movie room. In the heart of Cais do Sodre, you are close to contemporary art galleries, bars with riverfront views, and within walking distance to Chiado.
Bairro Alto Hotel: This hotel is situated in the best location in Lisbon, between Bairro Alto and Chiado in an 18th-century building in central Lisbon. The hotel features a restaurant with award-winning Chef Nuno Mendes and Executive Chef Bruno Rocha.
Best Restaurants in Lisbon
Alfaia
Mezze
A Cevicheria
Alma
Adega da Tia Matilde
Day 16: Sintra & Cascais
If you’re in Lisbon, you need to visit Sintra and Cascais. We recommend spending the morning in Sintra and the afternoon in Cascais. The first thing to do when you arrive in Sintra – grab a “travesseiro”, a Sintra staple at Piriquita, in the heart of the city.
Then walk toward the Castle of the Moors, a medieval castle that sits on a hilltop and was built by the Moors in the 8th century.
Palacio da Pena is another must-see. The exterior of this palace is painted in multiple colors and is in a romanticist style. You can also wander around the castle and see the beautiful green area that surrounds it. You’ll feel like you’re in a fairytale. Tickets cost around €15.
For lunch, drive towards Cascais and stop at a restaurant called Furnas do Guincho. This is one of the best seafood restaurants in the area, but it is quite pricey. For a more affordable alternative, drive to the center of Cascais and eat at Baia do Peixe.
Palacio da Pena, Sintra. Photo by Natalie Viklicka (Unsplash)
After lunch, discover the town of Cascais, located on the Portuguese Riviera. One of the richest municipalities in the country, it is home to the best hotels and beaches. Head to “Praia da Rainha,” a secluded beach with a wonderful view, perfect for a family photograph.
Then, walk for a minute toward “Frederico Arouca” street. This is essentially the high street with the major stores, as well as smaller vendors selling Portuguese souvenirs.
From there, walk toward the City Hall of Cascais in “Praça 5 de Outubro”. This beautiful building with traditional Portuguese architecture stands in the middle of the commerce square. The cobblestoned streets are the highlight of this square.
If you prefer a guided tour, this tour of Sintra and Cascais takes you to all the best spots. It also includes a guided ticket to the Pena Palace, allowing you to skip the long lines. You can also pick between a shared or private tour. The tour includes free time and transportation.
Cascais, Portugal. Photo by Calin Stan (Unsplash)
Day 17 & 18: Vila Nova de Milfontes
The last portion of your trip consists of relaxing on beaches and eating amazing food. A 2-hour drive from Lisbon, Vila Nova de Mil Fontes is a town located in the Alentejo. It is surrounded by the Southwest Alentejo and the Vicentine Coast Natural Park.
The town has some of the best beaches in Portugal, as well as a picturesque village and harbor with fishing boats. The best beaches to visit in Vila Nova de Mil Fontes are Praia da Franquia, Praia das Furnas, and Almograve, 10 kilometers away.
Spend the next two days relaxing on these beaches and exploring the town of Vila Nova. Visit St. Clement Fort, a fort built in the 17th century that is now an exclusive hotel. Discover the great restaurants, artisan shops, and patisseries in the town center and enjoy the Moorish architecture of the buildings.
Best Hotels in Vila Nova de Milfontes
Raminhos Guest House: Located a 10-minute walk from Franquia Beach, the rooms feature a desk, TV, private bathroom, and luggage storage available.
Monte da Corca Nova: The 4-star hotel features a swimming pool, bar, garden, and water sports facilities. They offer large rooms in traditional stoned houses.
Best Restaurants in Vila Nova de Milfontes
Tasca do Celso
100 Espinhas
Porto das Barcas
Patio Alentejano
Day 19 & 20: Tavira
A 2-hour drive from Vila Nova, Tavira is a town in the Algarve. Tavira was built alongside River Gilão, in an intricate of narrow roadways and white houses, and features golden beaches with warm water. While the small city is mostly known for its beaches, the quaint town allows you to visit some attractions, as well as explore shops, restaurants, and more.
Our favorite beach in Tavira is Praia do Barril. The beach features a wooden path over the golden sand, which provides a gorgeous contrast with the dark blue waters. Due to the large size of the beach, you will rarely feel like it’s too busy, despite its popularity.
Praia de Tavira and Praia da Terra Estreita are also great alternatives in Tavira. If you want to discover multiple beaches, this affordable 4-hour boat tour takes you on an octopus tour and stops at multiple beaches.
Walk through Tavira, exploring the chapel of Sao Bras and the hundreds of other churches. The historic center also features a castle and a convent. Book this 100% electric 1-hour tuk-tuk tour if you want a guided tour of the city from a local’s perspective.
Best Hotels in Tavira
São Paulo Boutique Hotel:São Paulo Boutique Hotel is located less than 5 kilometers from the beach and features an outdoor swimming pool, bar, shared lounge, and large garden for guests to enjoy.
OZADI Tavira Hotel: A 4-star hotel AZADI Tavira Hotel is 3 kilometers away from the beach and features a large outdoor pool, a fitness center, and two restaurants.
Quinta Dos Perfumes: An 8-minute walk from the beach, Quinta dos Perfumes is an 88-acre farmhouse that features beautiful orange groves and a salt-water outdoor pool.
Since you are already in the southern part of Portugal, there is no point flying back from Porto, which is in the north. Fly back home through Faro airport in the Algarve, a 30-minute drive from Tavira. You can usually return car rentals at Faro airport; make sure to ask about this before booking.
Portuguese houses have always been criticized for their humidity. However, this winter has brought about more intense humidity in Portugal. Hundreds of photos have been shared on social media of humidity in walls and ceilings in Portuguese homes, even as far as spreading onto objects.
December 2022 was the hottest in the last 92 years, which has certain implications, such as high humidity. According to the Portuguese Institute of the Sea and Atmosphere (IPMA), the levels of humidity in the air in January 2023 were around 90% to 100%.
The humidity phenomenon is thus explained by both the large quantity of air vapor in the atmosphere and the high temperatures this winter. For each increased degree in the average global temperature, the humidity in the atmosphere increases by 7%, said climatologist Pedro Garrett to CNN Portugal.
However, there are ways to solve these humidity issues as well as prevent them. The amount of humidity in your home will also depend on the type of build, area of the country you live in, age of home, etc. Let’s take a look at how you can keep humidity at bay in your home in Portugal.
Why do Portuguese houses have so much humidity?
It’s true that while this winter has been exceptionally humid, Portuguese houses have always been known for their humidity. Humidity leads to mold, infiltrations, stains on walls, and more. And these are not just aesthetically unpleasing, they can be harmful to your health.
But why do Portuguese houses have so much humidity? Portugal tends to be a humid country as the Atlantic climate predominates in most of the country. Most of Portugal is located in the humid zone of the Iberian peninsula, predominantly the northwest, which is rainy and humid.
Some houses are more vulnerable to humidity when the walls are not properly waterproofed, which can be the case in some older Portuguese houses. When there are heavy periods of rain, this humidity appears in walls that are in contact with soil and roofs.
Quick Tips: How to solve humidity issues in Portuguese houses
There is no quick fix when it comes to humidity. If your house is not properly insulated, you will always be dealing with the consequences of humidity, such as mold. However, if you do not have thousands to spare to make such a large fix, there are a few tips regarding humidity in Portugal.
Keep house temperatures between 18 to 22ºC.
Open windows every day for at least 30 minutes to ventilate space. If you are leaving the house for a few days, leave at least two windows slightly open. Do so even if it’s raining.
Close bathroom doors while showering and after, using windows and/or ventilators to circulate their vapor.
Do not over-pack wardrobes with clothes, leave spaces between hangers.
Purchase a dehumidifier and place it in bathrooms and wardrobes.
Purchase silica bags and place them in wardrobes and drawers as these fight humidity.
Always turn on your kitchen’s extractor hood and try to cover pots and pans.
Avoid hanging clothes to dry inside. If you do so, place a dehumidifier in the room and close the door.
How to prevent humidity and mold in Portugal
Prevention is key when it comes to humidity. This way, you avoid persistent mold. Even if you are able to figure out quick fixes, the constant exposure to mold is dangerous to you and your family.
There are three main things to control to prevent humidity: ventilation, temperature, and relative humidity.
Ventilation is important for at least 30 minutes daily, preferably cross ventilation. The temperature inside your home should be between 18ºC to 22ºC. Your home’s relative humidity should be between 40% and 60%, preferably.
These three key factors must be monitored to prevent humidity and mold in Portugal. However, without the correct insulation in your home, the humidity will always be at inadequate levels. Investing in this might be the safest and most efficient way, despite the initial cost.
In an interview with ECO, the CEO of Ryanair, Michael O’Leary, said that he would love to buy TAP, although he believes it is “worthless.” He says the Portuguese government’s best shot is to sell it to the IAG Group with the compromise that it will increase traffic by 50% in the next five years.
“I would love to buy TAP, but we wouldn’t be allowed… The problem is that we are blocked because we are the largest airline in Portugal, and TAP is second. If we joined both companies, we would have the Germans, the French, and the British saying we could not do this and that we had a monopoly.”
The CEO goes on to say to criticize the 2 million euro bonus that will be granted to the TAP CEO once the restoration plan is completed, saying the value is too high.
If he could purchase TAP, O’Leary said the first things he would do would be “reducing costs and increasing the number of flights.”
In his criticism of TAP, he said that the airline is not worth much. “It only survives because it received 3.2 billion from the government that must be returned. And it won’t be able to do that… TAP is not a well-managed airline.”
When asked how much he would pay for TAP if he could, Michael O’Leary says that “the issue is not how much the government can sell TAP for, but whether the government can find a partner for TAP.”
TAP Air Portugal is a Portuguese state-owned airline that was renationalized in 2016. The Portuguese government announced in September 2022 that it has plans to reprivatize TAP and conclude its sale in 2023.
Known as a village within stones and once titled “the most typical Portuguese village of all” in a 1938 contest during the Estado Novo regime, Monsanto is a special place. Monsanto is on the official route of Portuguese historical villages. Its history dates back to the country’s foundation, later on belonging to the Order of the Knights Templar.
Located in the interior of Portugal, the village of Monsanto was not known to most people, despite the Portuguese. However, in late 2022, it was announced that the Game of Thrones prequel House of the Dragon was filmed in the iconic village of Monsanto!
While during filming, tourism decreased due to restrictions, Monsanto is ready to welcome tourists back. If you are near the area or fancy a road trip, we recommend visiting the village.
Many argue one sees the whole village in less than three hours, making it the perfect morning for sightseeing before enjoying some traditional lunch. However, others opt for staying the night in what feels like an enchanted village – straight out of House of the Dragon.
Let’s take a look at our full Travel Guide to Monsanto, including the best things to do in Monsanto, top restaurants, and more.
5 Best Things To Do in Monsanto
1. Monsanto castle
As seen on HBO’s House of the Dragon, Monsanto castle is the key feature of the village of Monsanto. Sitting on top of the hill, this fortified castle was built in 1165 by Gualdim Pais, master of the Knights Templar.
Before that, Monsanto belonged to the Moors. However, Portugal’s first King, D. Afonso Henriques, took Monsanto from the Moors and donated it to the Templar monks, who then built the castle.
The Monsanto ruins can be visited at the top of the hill, where you will find views that stretch as far as the Serra da Estrela and Spain. Next to the castle, you will find unique ruins of a Roman chapel.
2. Lucano Tower
The building that most represents Monsanto village is the Lucano tower, also known as the watch tower. This building features the famous “Galo de Prato” which is a symbol of its achievement during the Estado Novo. In 1938, Monsanto village received the award “of the most Portuguese village in Portugal” in the Galo de Prata awards, given by the dictator Salazar himself.
Watch tower. Photo by Miguel Silva (Unsplash)
3. Find the best viewpoints
Monsanto has incredible spots to enjoy the best views. In Portugal, these are called miradouros, translating to viewpoints. Our favorites in Monsanto are Miradouro da Praca dos Canhoes and Miradouro do Toucinho.
Miradouro da Praca dos Canhoes, in particular, is the most beautiful one. Make sure to take some photos as you get a view of the whole village. It is on the way up the hill toward the castle. This is also the last point where driving is allowed, so from now on, it’s time for a hike.
If you are a House of the Dragon fan, you can actually find the exact spot where most of the scenes were filmed. The iconic scenery of the large rocks and greenery that is seen on the show is a once-in-a-lifetime view. Snap some shots of the spot where your favorite characters acted out the story of the House of the Dragon.
5. Monsanto, Idanha-a-Velha & Penha Garcia Tour
One of the best ways to see Monsanto is through a full-day tour with a guide. Not only does this resolve any transportation issues, but this way, you get to learn all the interesting facts about the area.
This tour from the city of Castelo Branco lasts around 8 hours, stopping in the historic village of Idanha-a-Velha on the way to Monsanto.
You can then enjoy a walking tour through the historic area of the village, stopping at the most important points, including the Lucano Tower, the Monsanto Castle, and beautiful churches.
The end of your trip stops at Penha Garcia, where you will see the windmills and the waterfall of the river beach.
Forget transportation within the village of Monsanto, as it is literally in the middle of nowhere. You will surely have to arrive in a vehicle, either in your own car or through a tour. There are guided tours, including transportation coming from Castelo Branco, a one-hour drive away.
Monsanto is a three-hour drive away from both Lisbon and Porto. If you are driving, we recommend coming as early as possible to find a parking space close to the top of the hill.
The media outlet found simple rooms in the center of Lisbon going for €1,000 a night, as well as apartments in Cascais, 30 minutes away, for over €4,000.
Various hotels are asking for over €12,000 for the week between July 31 and August 7, around €1,500 a night. More shockingly, one hotel is asking for €70,000 for 8 days, around €9,900 a night.
In Fatima, where fewer places are available, renting a three-bedroom apartment can cost around €8,000. The week before, similar apartments were going for €1,800.
The cheapest option for the week in Fatima is around €335 for a bed in a shared dorm with a shared bathroom. Four-star hotels in Fatima are going for €6,000 for the whole week.
World Youth Day Lisbon 2023, known as the Jornada Mundia da Juventude or JMJ in Portuguese, takes place in the Portuguese capital this year from August 1 to 6.
World Youth Day (WYD) is a Catholic pilgrimage event for young people from all over the world, which includes a visit by the Pope.
The government has already been heavily criticized for its investment in World Youth Day, spending around 35 million euros on the event.
The costs of the alter-stage in which the Pope will stand shocked the nation, costing over 5 million euros.
However, many argue that this event will have a high economic return and that these expenses are justified.
When Spain hosted the event in 2011, 50 million euros were spent, with a return of 350 million euros.
However, no public spending was included in this investment, with the money raised by Catholics and private companies.
With a growing international community, Porto is a welcoming city for expats, a population that keeps on growing. But any move can be frightening, particularly when it comes to finding a new home. Where should you live in Porto?
This will depend on what’s most important to you: an extremely central location or a larger apartment for a lower price. Whether you have a large family or want the city lifestyle also impacts where you should live in Porto.
To figure out the best scenario for you, let’s take a look at the 6 best neighborhoods to live in Porto
Located on the riverbank of the Douro, Ribeira is one of the most popular places to live in Porto. Ribeira has both a lively nightlife and delicious restaurants, as well as quieter areas to enjoy a walk.
Ribeira also offers views of the Douro river, Dom Luis I Bridge, and Vila Nova de Gaia, some of the best views in Porto. Ribeira is the most popular area amongst expats so you will find a strong international community here.
The average price per m2 to purchase a house in São Nicolau (the parish to which Ribeira belongs) in December 2022 was 3,906€/m2. To rent, it costs an average of 19.3€/m2.
Photo by Tomas Evaristo (Unsplash)
2. Cedofeita
Cedofeita is a trendy neighborhood close to the most iconic monuments in Porto. Cedofeita is also located in the art district of Porto, filled with art galleries and concept stores, catering to a younger trendy crowd.
This is the perfect place for a young creative to live in. You will also be close to the Crystal Palace Gardens and other green spaces. Cedofeita also has a great transport system and has seen demographic change with more expats motiving to the neighborhood.
The average price per m2 to purchase a house in Cedofeita in December 2022 was 3,906€/m2. To rent, it costs an average of 19.3€/m2.
Cedofeita, Porto. Photo by Pedro Menezes (Unsplash)
3. Paranhos
Paranhos is the largest parish in Porto and one that provides affordable housing close to the city center, Known as a university area, Paranhos has loads of student residencies and rooms to rent in this region. However, it is also a great family neighborhood with a large network of markets, stores, and restaurants.
Paranhos is located near the Polo university metro, providing a great public transport network. You will also be a few minutes away from libraries and the hospital, which is incredibly convenient.
The average price per m2 to purchase a house in Cedofeita in December 2022 was 2,920€/m2. To rent, it costs an average of 11.8€/m2.
4. Foz do Douro
Foz do Douro is the perfect place to live if you want to be near nature, but not too far from the city. Located in Western Porto, Foz do Douro faces the ocean and features apartments with stunning views of the Atlantic ocean.
There are has numerous green spaces, such as Parque Serralves, as well as some of the best seafood restaurants in Porto. However, Foz do Douro is one of the most expensive areas to live in.
The average price per m2 to purchase a house in Foz do Douro in December 2022 was 4,193€/m2. To rent, it costs an average of 15.8€/m2.
Foz do Douro. Photo by Rui Alves (Unsplash)
5. Vila Nova de Gaia
Located south of the city of Porto, on the other side of the Douro river lies the city of Vila Nova de Gaia. Known for its Port cellars, gardens, and astonishing views, Gaia is a great place to live, away from the hustle and bustle of the city, while still remaining close.
Porto has a larger public transportation network than Vila Nova de Gaia. Forget the metro and trams. However, the bus system is still pretty efficient. The cable cars also allow you to commute to certain areas while enjoying beautiful views. Still, having a car here will be very helpful.
The average price per m2 to purchase a house in Vila Nova de Gaia in December 2022 was 2,031€/m2. To rent, it costs an average of 8.6€/m2.
6. Matosinhos
Want to be close to the water but with more affordable prices than Foz do Douro? The beach town of Matosinhos might be the right place for you. Matosinhos is known for having the largest beach close to Porto, as well as delicious seafood.
The morning fish market sells fresh fish every day at the port and you can also taste the finest fish dishes at seafood restaurants.
You will find everything you need and more in Matosinhos, including quality schools, parks, supermarkets, shopping, and more.
The average price per m2 to purchase a house in Matosinhos in December 2022 was 2,898€/m2. To rent, it costs an average of 11.4€/m2.
When we talk about the Middle Ages, a set of gloomy images come to mind: a time submerged in a thick fog, also a metaphor for the cultural and socio-economic doldrums of the time and for the Black Death that in Europe exterminated almost all its population.
Despite everything, in this not-so-idyllic image, another one appears, the representation of imposing castles used to protect populations from the constant invasions, plundering, and wars of conquest and reconquest of the territory, contrasting and demystifying a little the idea of cultural stagnation that always characterized this time.
In this image, although so Eurocentric, Portugal was clearly not left out, and to prove it are the many castles still there to be visited and discovered throughout the Portuguese territory.
They are also proof of this territorial development and the security of its populations, as well as, equally, the construction and identity of a people.
Some historical facts are necessary to better understand the influence of these fortifications. The Treaty of Alcanizes in 1297, signed between the kings of the two kingdoms, until then enemies, defined the borders of the kingdom of Portugal.
However, until then, these castles were crucial in the defense of the Portuguese territory from north to south. Still, it is necessary to go back to before the foundation of the kingdom of Portugal, to understand that in the 9th century, the territory witnessed a constant fight between Christians and Muslims in the historical process of the reconquest.
This process led to a reconfiguration of the Christian monarchs who tried to reorganize themselves to recover the lost territories. Amid all this chaos, castles were born out of a need for protection and became one of the armies’ most significant allies in defending the territory.
Once the expeditions against the Muslims were over, it was now a matter of delimiting the borders between the various Christian kingdoms.
The castle tradition was kept up, building a new one under something older or sometimes making everything from scratch to defend Portuguese territory against the enemy kingdoms of Leon and Castile.
Among the various castles erected in the Middle Ages, we have selected castles in the Interior of Portugal that, being a short distance from each other, can be visited during a weekend. Take a look at 5 castles to discover in Portugal’s interior below.
1. Penedono Castle
Penedono Castle. Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)
When we are in front of this castle, we barely realize that we are facing more than a thousand years of history. A story that begins to be told even before the foundation of the Kingdom of Portugal.
The castle that the traveler has in front of them will have been a very simple structure erected in the tenth century for hundreds of years. But this primitive and simple structure will not have resisted the invasions of Almançor, a military and political man from Alandalus linked to the Muslim invasion of the Iberian Peninsula started in the 8th century.
Later, still under the government of Leon, Ferdinand I the Great would undertake its renovation. And already in times of the Kingdom of Portugal, the settlement of Penedono in 1195 was stimulated by Dom Sancho I, the second king of Portugal and whose nickname, The Settler, did him justice.
Later, in 1373, King Fernando donated the castle to Vasco Fernandes Coutinho, who became its mayor. His descendants would make the changes we can see during the visit.
During the Ferdinandine wars (1369-1382), the alcaide of Penedono fought alongside the master of Avis in the battle of Trancoso, which would open the doors to victory in the Battle of Aljubarrota (1385). In the 15th and early 16th centuries, the space was totally reformulated to be adapted to a manor house.
With so many reformulations throughout the centuries, it can be said that Penedono Castle as we see it today originated in the 13th century. It is classified as a national monument and temporarily closed for restoration work.
Still, it is worth the trip to Penedono to see this beautiful fortification and village where other monuments can also be visited.
This includes the Mother Church of Penedono (late 17th century), Menir of Penedono, the Megalithic Necropolis of Lameira de Cima in Antas, the pillory in front of Penedono’s Castle, as well as secular churches and chapels of the village.
Visiting hours: Penedono Castle, closed temporarily for restoration.
2. Trancoso’s Castle
Captured by Araci Almeida
It is quite curious to see that when we speak of the Portuguese Middle Ages, several feminine voices stand out. From Mumadona Dias – the most powerful woman in the northwest Iberian Peninsula (10th century), responsible for building the wall and the Castle of Guimarães – to her niece Dona Flâmula Rodrigues who donated in her will ten fortifications to the monastery of Guimarães.
Among them, in the tenth century, the Castle of Trancoso appears as one of the most impressive.
It is curious to see how a woman in the middle of the Middle Ages owned such an impressive set of fortifications, namelyTrancoso and Penedono.
But it is the one in Trancoso that stands out the most, with its keep dating from the 10th century, which later originated the rest of the castle, suffering subsequent reforms in the 12th and 13th centuries.
As were the others, this tower served to watch over and control the territory of Trancoso. However, this fortification also did not resist the same Almançor invasions that also occurred in Penedono.
By the end of the 10th century, the Muslim flag was raised on its tower. With a shared history, also here, King Fernando the Great of Leon, during the military campaign of 1055, recovered the castle by handing it over to its previous owners, the Monastery of Guimarães.
From that time on, in the 12th century, even before the foundation of Portugal, the construction of the wall began. This would be reinforced by king D. Dinis (who reigned between 1279 and 1325), who ordered the addition of seven walled towers.
This wall was restored in 1173, 1282, 1530, and more recently in 1940, during the Estado Novo regime during the Portuguese World Exhibition.
Visiting hours:
From June 1 to September 30, Monday to Friday, from 9:30 am to 12:30 pm and 2:00 pm to 6:00 pm. Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays, 9:30 am to 1:00 pm and 3:00 pm to 6:30 pm.
From October 1 to May 31, weekdays are from 9:00 am to 12:30 pm and from 2:00 pm to 5:30 pm. Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays from 9:00 am to 12:30 pm and from 2:00 pm to 5:30 pm.
Closed Easter Sunday, May 1, November 1, December 24th and 25th, December 31, and January 1.
Price: Free entrance
3. Castelo Rodrigo’s Castle
Rodrigo Castle. Photo by Pedro (Flickr).
A few meters from the border with Spain, we find a historic village, once surrounded by medieval walls that, like so many, served to protect its inhabitants from constant barbarian offensives.
Right next to the border, the dispute for this little land lasted more than 130 years. On the one hand, the king of Leon created a defensive line on the right bank of the Côa River, where the castle was integrated, and the name of this village will be related to the name of a count called Rodrigo I, that governed the city between the 11th and 12th century.
The castle, of which few ruins now remain, will have had its foundation in a hill that also belonged to Flâmula Rodrigues. In 1209, Afonso 4º, King of León, promulgated the first charter of Castelo Rodrigo, intending to turn the town into a fortress of the kingdom to prevent the invasive actions of the Portuguese.
At the beginning of the reign of Portugal, the castle underwent several changes, the biggest ones made by D. Dinis, who rebuilt the keep and reinforced the protected fence with multiple turrets.
This castle was also a significant part of Portugal’s history, particularly between 1383-1385, during the dynastic crisis. However, the connections of this land with Castelo made it refuse to receive D. João I as king of Portugal in 1396.
Only a year later, this small fief would be solved, and the doors opened to the master of Avis. During the reign of D. Sebastião, in the 16th century, the castle was donated to a count, Cristóvão de Moura, in the service of Filipe II of Spain.
It would undergo a series of transformations by introducing a sumptuous palace. The restoration of independence in 1640, after 60 years under the rule of the Philippine dynasty, would greatly influence the friendship between the count and the Spanish king.
At war with the count, the mob went to the castle and burned down the palace, explaining the ruins we can see today. And even though the new king of the fourth and last Portuguese dynasty paid attention to renovating the walls, the palace was never recovered.
Visiting hours: October 1 through February 28, 9 am to 12:30 pm and 2 pm to 5:30 pm; March 1 through September 30, 9:30 am to 1 pm and 2:30 pm to 6 pm. Closed December 24 and 25, January and Easter Sunday.
Price: 1 Euro
4. Belmonte Castle
Belmonte Castle. Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)
Belmonte could go unnoticed as another Portuguese village lost in the Beira Baixa region. But whoever travels through these lands will pass by one of the most important Portuguese villages, whose castle is inseparable from the history of Portugal.
It was there that Pedro Álvares Cabral, the famous navigator who would reach Brazil and make this enormous land known to Portugal, was born.
But if the navigator was born in the 15th century, Belmonte’s Castle is older, dating back to the middle of the 13th century during the reign of Dom Afonso III – the fifth Portuguese king.
The castle replaced an old fortification recorded from 1223, which, common at the time, protected a small population cluster. Its decline was accentuated after the treaty of Alcanizes in 1297, where the sovereign kings of León and Castle Fernando IV and the Portuguese king Dinis established peace in the territory by delimiting the border limits of both kingdoms.
But also, its geographical position did not help in its maintenance. Its proximity to the border was a step closer to having its walls and dwellings destroyed by the enemies, mainly during the dynastic crisis of 1383-1385.
The typical machicolation balconies of the architectural ensemble can be seen there and date back to the late 13th century and early 14th century. But it was in the 15th century, more specifically in 1466, that D. Afonso V donated the castle to Fernão Nunes de Cabral.
He undertook a major reconfiguration in the layout of the walls and ordered the construction of a residential area, turning the castle into a palace. However, in the 18th century, a violent fire destroyed a large part of the palace, ending its habitation.
The Cabral family left the castle for good and moved to the current Casa dos Condes. But even today, when visiting the castle, one can still see the Cabral family coat of arms, something one cannot remain indifferent to.
Of course, Belmonte has a lot more to tell, namely the important Jewish community that has lived there since the Middle Ages, but for now, the visits are for the castle, considered a National Monument.
Visiting hours: Tuesday through Sunday, from 9:30 am to 1:00 pm and from 2:30 pm to 5:30 pm. Closed January 1st, Easter Sunday, May 1st and December 25th
Price: 2 euros
5. Sabugal Castle
Capture by Araci Almeida
Last on our journey stands one of the best-preserved castles in Portugal, the Castle of Sabugal, whose majestic structure reveals its strategic importance in defending the borders of the Portuguese kingdom.
It was also occupied by King Dinis in the campaign of 1296. This castle was another reinforcement to strengthen the border and was ostentatious of its power during this period.
The castle’s completion took place in 1303, together with other defensive systems – Castelo Rodrigo, Almeida, Castelo Bom, Vilar Maior, Castelo Melhor, and Alfaiates. Also, in this one, we can see its tower keep 27 meters high, with machicolation balconies.
Use your imagination, and imagine yourself being the enemy under those balconies. You could be hit with arrows or boiling oil, a position that would not be at all the most desirable.
Nowadays, with no enemies in the tower, visitors can climb to the top of the building, if they don’t suffer from vertigo, and let themselves be enchanted not only by the castle but also by the surrounding landscape of one of the most beautiful places in Portugal.
Visiting hours: Open every day, from June to August, from 10 am to 1 pm and from 2 pm to 6 pm, and from September to May, from 9:30 am to 1 pm and from 2 pm to 5:30 pm.
It’s no surprise that most expats choose Lisbon as their permanent home in Portugal, which is the case for over 40% of all immigrants in 2021. With a sunny climate all year round, access to wonderful beaches, as well as tons of culture, Lisbon is experiencing an expat boom.
Lisbon has a range of quaint neighborhoods to live in. However, if you choose to live in the center of Lisbon or even the Metropolitan Area of Lisbon, rent prices will be more expensive.
You might also find that if you have a large family with small kids or elderly people, living in the historical center of Lisbon is inconvenient, despite its beauty.
Therefore, we also recommend looking for places in Greater Lisbon which, along with the capital, also include the municipalities of Amadora, Cascais, Loures, Mafra, Odivelas, Oeiras, Sintra, and Vila Franca de Xira.
Where you live might also depend on what’s most important to you: an extremely central location or a larger apartment for a lower price.
To figure out the best scenario for you, let’s take a look at the 9 best neighborhoods to live in Lisbon, including places in Greater Lisbon.
However, do not take the order of our list too seriously, as again, the best place to live depends on your family context, needs, and finances.
In the center of Lisbon, Arroios is probably the coolest neighborhood in Lisbon at the moment. This Lisbon parish is known for its multiculturalism, being home to almost 100 nationalities. Despite being the largest parish in Lisbon, it is still easily walkable.
The neighborhood boasts incredible restaurants from all over the world, art galleries, cultural venues, bars, and more. Locals also have easy access to green parks such as Alameda Park.
Arroios has loads of bus routes, and you have the Alameda, Anjos, Intendente, and Saldanha metro stations. You will be a 5-minute metro to Chiado and a 10-minute metro to Oriente, where you can get trains to other Portuguese cities. Therefore, you do not need a car in Arroios.
The average price per m2 to purchase a house in Arroios in December 2022 was 4,489€/m2. To rent, it costs an average of 18.9€/m2.
Photo by Europeana EU (Flickr)
2. Estrela
Estrela is part of the historical center of Lisbon, located halfway up the hill between Sao Bento and Campo de Ourique. This neighborhood is a perfect happy medium for those wanting to be close to the center without being crammed in the middle of the chaos.
This neighborhood blends the traditional with the modern. You will find the Basilica da Estrela making its mark, an 18th-century landmark with a beautiful white facade, as well as vibrant stores and loads of green spaces such as the Jardim da Estrela.
Although there is no metro station here, there are loads of bus and tram routes. You do not necessarily need a car, as many rely on public transport and even cheap Ubers below 4 euros to get around.
Estrela has recently seen a boom in foreign residents moving to the neighborhood. Its popularity has caused house prices to go up, making it one of the most expensive places to purchase and rent a home in Lisbon.
The average price per m2 to purchase a house in Estrela in December 2022 was 6,217€/m2. To rent, it costs an average of 20.4€/m2.
Photo by Freguesia de Estrela (Unsplash)
3. Alcantara
Located between Belem and the center of Lisbon, Alcantara is a trendy neighborhood situated along the Tagus river. Alcantara feels quieter than the busy city center and boasts a large expat community.
It is home to the Docas de Santo Amaro, a dock by the river with restaurants and bars, as well as the LX Factory. The latter is a renovated factory area with cool shops, restaurants, and cultural spaces.
Although Alcantara has no metro station, it boasts good bus routes to the center of Lisbon. You can be in Chiado in less than 20 minutes by transport. Alcantara is also extremely close to the 25 de Abril bridge, giving it quick access to the beaches in Costa da Caparica.
The average price per m2 to purchase a house in Alcantara in December 2022 was 6,831€/m2. To rent, it costs an average of 16.3€/m2.
Photo by Vinicius Morandi (Unsplash)
4. Graca
If you want a beautiful view of Lisbon, Graca might be your neighborhood. One of the highest neighborhoods in Lisbon, Graca is located in Sao Vicente. It has a local feel, without hoards of tourists, unlike Alfama, also a neighborhood situated in a high part of Lisbon.
This neighborhood has everything you need: restaurants, cafes, coworking spaces, and more. You get stunning views of the Tagus river, as well as the National Pantheon and the Sao Vicente church.
Graca is a short walk from Lisbon’s main attractions, but the public transport access is also good, with loads of tram and bus routes. The Santa Apolonia metro and train stations give you easy access to other parts of Lisbon.
The average price per m2 to purchase a house in Sao Vicente (the parish Graca is a part of) in December 2022 was 4,440€/m2. To rent, it costs an average of 20.5€/m2.
Photo by Oksana Z (Unsplash)
5. Parque das Nacoes
Located at the edge of the Tagus river, Parque das Nacoes is a unique area in Lisbon. Providing an atmosphere of modernity and industrialization, this area changed a lot during the Expo ’98, a world fair hosted in Lisbon. Since then, the oceanarium and the gorgeous marina opened, offering a unique experience.
This futuristic area boasts green areas, restaurants, stores, gyms, and wonderful bars with views of the Tagus river. This area is great for families, offering proximity to Lisbon while in a more quiet suburban area.
Parque das Nacoes is around a 20-minute metro ride to the center of Lisbon. With the Oriente train station nearby, you can also get to other Portuguese cities.
The average price per m2 to purchase a house in Parque das Nacoes in December 2022 was 5,695€/m2. To rent, it costs an average of 17.8€/m2.
Photo by David M (Unsplash)
6. Oeiras
Surrounded by Lisbon, Cascais, Sintra, and Almada, Oeiras is a great place to live for expats, providing access to most of Greater Lisbon. From the city center of Lisbon, 25 minutes away, to some of the best beaches in Sintra and Cascais, Oeiras is popular neighborhood.
Oeiras is a municipality divided into parishes. To be the closest to Lisbon, opt for the parish of Alges, Linda-a-Velha, and Cruz Quebrada Dafundo. To be closer to Cascais and wonderful beaches, opt for Oeiras and Sao Juliao da Barra, Paco de Arcos, and Caxias.
A 25-minute train ride to Lisbon, Oeiras boasts a quality public transport system, including buses. However, it does not have a metro or tram line as it is outside the metropolitan area of Lisbon. Having a car in Oeiras will make your life a lot easier, and this is the most common transport method.
The average price per m2 to purchase a house in Oeiras in December 2022 was 3,669€/m2. To rent, it costs an average of 13.6€/m2.
Photo by Bernardo Lorena Ponte (Unsplash)
7. Sintra
Sintra was once a hidden gem in Portugal but has, in the past decade, been discovered by tourists. Despite the overcrowdedness in the historical center in the summer, Sintra is quite large and has beautiful places to live in.
Located on the Portuguese Riviera, Sintra‘s mountainside is actually a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sintra is known for its beautiful palaces and mansions, nineteenth-century gardens, and some of the best beaches in Portugal.
However, if living in Sintra is an option, you are more likely not going to want a place right in the historical center due to the high prices.
There are a bunch of parishes within Sintra at various price points such as Colares, a popular beach area and Almargem do Bispo, Pero Pinheiro and Montelavar, a more “rural” and “farm” like area.
These parishes in Sintra provide you with a more relaxed lifestyle while only being around a 30-minute drive away from the center of Lisbon.
Sintra is also more affordable to rent than the center of Lisbon and Cascais. However, it is still an exclusive vacation location where certain real estate can often go for millions, particularly in the historical center.
You will need to have a car in Sintra as transportation can sometimes be slow, and this is the best way to explore the area. However, if you work in Lisbon, you can always take the train from Sintra.
The average price per m2 to purchase a house in Sintra in December 2022 was 2,218€/m2. To rent, it costs an average of 10.7€/m2.
Photo by Portuguese Gravity (Unsplash)
8. Cascais
Cascais is one of the most exclusive places to live in the whole of Portugal. A 30-minute drive from Lisbon, many live in Cascais and commute to work in the capital.
It is one of the wealthiest areas in Portugal, so homes tend to be more expensive when it comes to buying. However, rental prices tend to be a bit more affordable than in Lisbon.
Cascais is the perfect place for families and those who prefer a more relaxed life near the beach, without having to move to an isolated location. Cascais was once a fishermen’s village, still boasting incredible seafood markets, as well as local shops and quality restaurants. You also have access to incredible beaches and nature.
You do not need to live in the center of Cascais. This municipality includes a variety of parishes with different costs of living: Alcabideche, Carcavelos and Parede, Sao Domingos de Rana, and finally, Cascais and Estoril, the most expensive.
The average price per m2 to purchase a house in the municipality of Cascais in December 2022 was 4,432€/m2. To rent, it costs an average of 17.7€/m2.
Photo by CALIN STAN (Unsplash)
9. Ericeira
Want to occasionally drive to Lisbon to enjoy the city while living by the beach and surrounded by nature? Ericeira, a seaside town in Mafra, has in recent years become an expat hub due to being the surfing capital of Europe.
While Ericeira is best known for surfing, it also boasts quaint architecture from the 15th century, Ericeira features blue and white buildings that make up the heart of the city center. From excellent seafood restaurants to recently vegan places, as well as trendy bars and coworking spaces, Ericeira has everything you need.
Ericeira’s transport system is not well developed, though. You will need a car, especially if you want to get to Lisbon, a 40-minute drive away (depending on traffic). Although buses are available, these are not made for such long routes.
The average price per m2 to purchase a house in Ericeira in December 2022 was 3,044€/m2. To rent, it costs an average of 13.7€/m2.
If you have Portuguese ancestors or have traveled to the country many times, it’s almost impossible never to have heard of Salazar. Antonio de Oliveira Salazar was a Portuguese dictator that was the President of the Council of Ministers of the Estado Novo (1933 – 1974), an authoritarian regime in Portugal.
This fascist regime lasted over four decades and had a large impact on the country. It symbolizes four decades of unfreedom, oppression, and inequality. Only on April 25, 1974, this regime fell, bringing about the transition to democracy and the end of the Portuguese Colonial War in Africa.
Let’s take a look at the history of Portugal’s dictatorship, led mostly by Salazar.
Key Facts about Salazar’s Estado Novo
The Estado Novo (1933 – 1974) was one of the longest authoritarian regimes in 20th-century Europe.
Developed by Antonio de Oliveira Salazar, the President of the Council of Ministers, the Estado Novo was inspired by autocratic, authoritarian, and fascist ideologies. It was nationalist in nature and defended Portugal’s traditional Catholicism.
The Estado Novo was opposed to communism, socialism, syndicalism, anarchism, liberalism, and anti-colonialism.
The Estado Novo promoted Portugal as pluricontinental nation in its colonialism, naming Angola, Mozambique, and other colonies as extensions of Portugal. Salazar believed Portugal brought these colonies “stability” and “civilization,” a highly imperialist notion.
Voting was not a universal right, and elections were manipulated
Salazar looked up to Mussolini and Hitler, declaring three days of national mourning after Hitler’s death.
The Estado Novo had PIDE, its police, from 1945 to 1969 that was responsible for oppressing any opposition to the regime. This included kidnapping, torturing, and murdering many suspected of promoting communist or left-leaning sentiments.
In 1968, Marcelo Caetano replaced Salazar as prime minister as he had become old and ill. Although there was less press censorship and independent labor unions were allowed, the regime remained authoritarian and unfree.
Salazar believed he was still in charge until his death in 1970.
Portugal’s GDP grew from 1950 to 1970 at an average annual rate of 5.7%.
However, by the end of the regime, Portugal still had the lowest per capita income and the lowest literacy rate in Western Europe.
Oppression & Censorship in the Portuguese Dictatorship
The International and State Defense Police, known as PIDE, was the Portuguese security agency during the Estado Novo. PIDE had the power to detain and arrest anyone who was thought to be plotting against the state and focused on political and social issues such as political opposition and revolutionary movements.
PIDE tortured and assassinated many political activists, anarchists, communists, workers, intellectuals, and more, numbers we do not know to this day.
The Portuguese people had no freedom of speech. At any corner, any dinner party, any supermarket, a member of PIDE, the secret police could be listening. Saying the wrong thing to what seemed a friendly face could leave you in prison, tortured, or murdered.
As Portuguese people from that time say, “As paredes têm ouvidos” (the walls have ears). Censorship of the media was also in place, requesting books, controlling newspapers, censoring music, art, and much more.
The Portuguese Colonial War
The Estado Novo promoted Portugal as pluricontinental nation through lusotropicalism. This is the false belief that the Portuguese were “better” colonizers than other Europeans. The colonies abroad were seen as an extension of Portugal, without the right to self-determination.
Also known as the Angolan, Guinea-Bissau, and Mozambican War of Independence, the Portuguese Colonial War was a conflict fought between Portugal’s military and the emerging nationalist movements in Portugal’s African colonies between 1961 and 1974.
The Portuguese Colonial War was inhumane, costly, and led to the loss of countless lives of both Portuguese and Africans. Portuguese men were forced to go to war.
The war only ended with the Carnation Revolution. The end of the Estado Novo led to the end of Portuguese colonialism in Africa, with this being a major driving force for the revolution.
Estado Novo and World War II
On September 1, 1939, after the outbreak of the Second World War, following the invasion of Poland, Salazar declared Portugal’s neutrality to the National Assembly.
This decision was based on ideological and economic motives. Salazar believed it gave the nation a chance to prosper economically in the sense that it could foster business opportunities with both sides and ultimately stimulate the economy. He maintained open trade with both the Allied and Axis camp throughout the war.
Neutrality strongly boosted the Portuguese economy in four short years. It went from a 90 million dollar deficit in 1939 to a surplus of 68 million by 1943 due to its economic involvement with various nations during the war.
However, Portugal’s official “neutrality” stance is beyond questionable. The Estado Novo’s collaboration with Hitler’s Nazi Germany marks a dark time in Portuguese history, one that is too often left unmentioned.
In 1941, Salazar and the actual government of Portugal expressed public support for the nation of Germany. Moreover, it often exported wolfram to Germany and accepted Nazi gold in turn for other products.
To this day, the Bank of Portugal receives a negative image for its Nazi collaboration, as Portugal knew the German payment in the form of gold was stolen from conquered nations and victims of the Holocaust.
Moreover, the Estado Novo did not want to help Jewish refugees. Salazar was against immigration, promoting nationalistic rhetoric. He believed foreigners would diminish the “national spirit” and even dismantled criminal networks responsible for falsifying passports for Jewish refugees.
Women’s Rights During the Estado Novo
Women’s rights were heavily restricted during the Estado Novo. Women were perceived as instrumental figures to the Estado Novo, forced to perpetuate social norms of “feminity” to maintain “family life.”
Article number 5 of the Constitution of 1933 stated that citizens were equal, “except for the woman, the differences resulting from her nature and the good of the family”.
The country was predominantly roman catholic under dictator Salazar and his ideology surrounding women’s “nature” was rooted in messages repeated by the Catholic Church.
Women’s “nature” meant that women were expected to stay at home, take care of children, and, unfortunately, be silenced.
The only role of a woman was to be a dedicated wife and loving mother, a role that her family had trained her to play since childhood. The family was to be defended as an institution.
Financial abuse against women was institutionalized. The law allowed husbands to prohibit wives from working outside the home.
Women were not allowed to access certain professions (diplomat, military, etc.), and certain professions (like nursing) had limited rights, such as the right to marry.
Until 1969, a wife needed the consent of her husband to travel to another country. Contraceptives were only allowed for health reasons, and even so, the husband needed to give consent.
Abortion was illegal in all cases, with a prison sentence of up to 8 years.
Although women were technically allowed to vote in the 1933 constitutional referendum for the first time, they were not allowed to do so on the same terms as men. Men only needed to know how to read and write to vote, while women needed secondary education, which was extremely uncommon.
During the Portuguese Colonial War, African women were regularly raped for over a decade. Many academics now situate these acts “at the core of Portuguese colonial violence,” such as Garraio.
When did Salazar die?
While the Estado Novo was still in place for four years after his death, Salazar died in 1970. In 1968, Salazar had a cerebral hemorrhage, which sources say was caused by a fall from a chair. Others say he fell in the bath.
A few weeks later, he went into a coma, forcing him to step down, unaware. After emerging from a one-month coma, his subordinates did not tell him he had been removed from power. He believed to be ruling in privacy until he died on July 27th, 1970.
The Fall of the Estado Novo
Carnation Revolution
Freedom day, Carnation Revolution, 25th of April, all of these describe Portugal’s most important national holiday.
After over 40 years of fascism, on April 25th, 1974, a (peaceful) military coup led by leftist military officers known as the Carnation Revolution brought about freedom for the Portuguese. It led to a transition to democracy and the end of the Portuguese Colonial War in Africa.
Although this is not common knowledge, a lot of the planning for the Carnation Revolution was actually organized by military members stationed in African colonies such as Angola, Mozambique, and Guinea Bissau.
Organized by the Movimento das Forças Armadas (MFA) which translates to the Armed Forces Movement, a revolutionary civil resistance campaign composed of military officers. These were lower-ranking officers affiliated with the socialist and communist parties who sought to overthrow the fascist regime and end the colonial war.
The Carnation Revolution started with music on the radio. First, at 10:55 pm on the 24th of April, E Depois do Adeus by Paulo de Carvalho played on the radio. In the early hours of the 25th of April at 00:25, Grandola, Vila Morena by Jose Afonso played on Radio Renascenca.
This last song was the second sign to the Portuguese people that the revolution was starting and that revolutionaries should occupy the strategic points of the country. Within a few hours, the Estado Novo was overthrown.
Every year, the people of Portugal run to the streets to celebrate the 25 of April or Freedom Day!
From older people who lived during the Estado Novo, to younger people, this day is a yearly reminder of the value of democracy, the fight against fascism, and the end of Portuguese colonialism.
All over the country, people go out to sing, dance, eat, and march the streets with carnations in their hands. It’s common that florists will give out carnations for free.
The Aftermath of the Revolution
A few weeks after the Carnation Revolution, on May 16, 1974, the first provisional government of Portugal took office. This government had many political forces, from communists to liberal democrats.
However, this government later fell in July of 1974, and there were six other provisional governments until two years later when the first constitutional government was formed.
The current Constitution of Portugal was adopted in 1976 by the Constituent Assembly, which was elected on 25 April 1976, a year after the revolution.
With some 60% of seats occupied by the left after the election, the Assembly adopted a constitution that provided for a democratic parliamentary system with various political parties, elections, a parliament, and a prime minister.
The Portuguese constitution included ideological content, with references to socialism and restricting private business. In the 80s, there were constitutional revisions to remove some of these.
