“From Marvão one can see the entire land… It is understandable that from this place, high up in the keep at Marvão Castle, visitors may respectfully murmur, ‘How great is the world’.” – words signed by the famous Portuguese author José Saramago.
Located on a hilltop at the border with Spain, the Castle of Marvão greets thousands of tourists yearly, offering them a glimpse into Portugal’s history.
Although most people visit Portugal for its oceanside cities and unbelievably charming beaches, they do not regret distancing themselves from the busy coastal areas. That’s how many travelers end up at the Castle of Marvão (and other castles as well – the country is actually filled with them!) and fall in love with the place on the spot!
Let’s discover some facts about the Marvão municipality, the castle’s history, and details about visiting the area! Enjoy your trip!
A Little About Marvão
Marvão is located in the Portalegre District in the east of Portugal. It is quite a small municipality, with a total area of 154 sq km and a population of only 2,972 people, registered in 2020.
The region is a gem for anthropology enthusiasts, as it is surrounded by several carved tombs and burial chambers, suggesting that it was once home to small farming settlements. Furthermore, archaeologists discovered a necklace in the region dating from the 3rd millennium BCE, as well as decorative objects like ceramics and deity sculptures.
Without getting into too many details because we want you to have the privilege to discover them by yourself, we’ll just say that Marvão is a dream destination for anyone looking for an authentic, history-rich town to enjoy on a one-day getaway.
Marvão should also be a top pick for travelers keeping an eagle eye on aesthetic treasure – it overlooks the Tagus basin and the Serra de Estrela, making for stunning views!
Marvao. Photo by Elvira Nimmee (Flickr)
History of the Castle of Marvão
It is believed that the Castle of Marvão dates back to the 9th century, having been built by Ibn Marwan, also known as al-Jillīqī, a Muwallad (Muladi – population native to the Iberian Peninsula who adopted Islam in the aftermath of the Muslim conquest). Allegedly, he built the castle between 876 and 877. In the 10th century, the settlement acquired the name Amaia de Ibn Maruan or Fortaleza de Amaia.
Between 1160 and 1166, the region was conquered from Moorish forces by Christian forces loyal to Afonso I of Portugal. Years later, Afonso III donated the settlement to the Order of Malta, which would later be awarded to D. Afonso Sanches, his son.
When King D. Dinis, the eldest son of Afonso III, rose to power, the settlement found itself trapped in a dispute between the sovereign and D. Afonso. In 1299, it was conquered by the forces of the sovereign.
Ferdinand I of Portugal, who ruled between 1367 and 1383, named Marvão a sanctuary place. Over the next century, Marvão underwent works of reinforcing the walls and expanding the settlement. The region’s castle was remodeled multiple times – first, it acquired the turrets, then the corbel, and, lastly, the reinforced bastions.
In 1641, after the castle had been named a primary line of defense, it was attacked by the Spanish forces, who left the fortress in ruins, and required serious repairs. Not long after, the army commanded by the Duke of Berwick conquered the fortification, only to surrender it a year later to the army commanded by Count of São João.
Over the next several hundred years, the Castle of Marvão continued to stand as a defense fortification, having suffered multiple attacks. Its location was probably its key strength – it could only be accessed from a narrow, very steep road.
However, it wasn’t only the attack of foreign forces that took a toll on the castle’s majesty. In 1997, the Southern Barbican (a fortified gateway) was struck by lightning and completely destroyed.
Although many details of this castle’s long-standing history spanning over several centuries were omitted in our article (we’d have to write a book to share everything!), we can definitely state that its contribution to the country of Portugal is undeniable and substantial.
Visiting the Castle of Marvão
Carrying proof of won and lost battles, the Castle of Marvão lies at an altitude of 800 meters on a rocky, steep hill, overlooking the whole region. Its extensive walls enclose the medieval town, further adding to its charm and value. The cistern in one of the castle’s courtyards is among the things that impress visitors the most. The fact that it is still functional stands as evidence of the region’s authenticity.
As you walk through the area, you’ll delight in the picturesque, out-of-this-world views that will take your breath away. You’ll probably start envisioning yourself spending all your evenings there, wondering how it would be to live in such a serene place…
As such, taking your time to visit the Castle of Marvão should definitely make it to your must-do list. However, we must warn you – the roads are quite narrow, so you should drive very carefully.
On the positive side, although the region has become quite a popular tourist destination in recent years, its location (far from the ocean and more difficult to access) doesn’t make it to the top of the list for all travelers. That’s why it is usually very quiet, without the busyness of other popular tourist spots. Therefore, you can enjoy a peaceful evening watching the sunset over Europe’s most beautiful lands.
The Castle of Marvão is open daily and the entrance fee is 1.5 EUR. In the winter, visiting is allowed from 10 am to 7 pm, while in the summer, the castle is open from 9 am to 9 pm. We strongly recommend checking the hours and entrance fee beforehand to ensure nothing has changed.
Marvao Castle. Photo by Alvaro Rodriguez (Flickr)
Other Landmarks to See in Marvão
Since you’re already in Marvão, take your time to check out some other landmarks in the area. Visit the Santa Maria Church and the Municipal Museum located within it. The museum is home to rich collections of sacred art and archeological pieces outlining the region’s history.
You can also visit Antiga Casa do Governador, which opens the doors to 17th-century architecture and decor. Don’t forget to add Capela do Calvario and Capela do Espirito Santo to your list as well.
During your stay, don’t hesitate to enjoy lunch or dinner in Marvão. This way, you’ll be able to try some of the region’s specialties. In addition, souvenirs are truly unique there (and at excellent prices!). So if you haven’t had time to buy anything yet, we’re sure you’ll pack your bags with lots of ceramics from Marvão!
The Best Time to Visit the Castle of Marvão
Naturally, you should schedule your visit depending on your preferences and availability. However, we recommend checking the weather forecast beforehand. Bear in mind that the castle is at a higher altitude, and you definitely don’t want strong winds on the day you get there!
During the winter, the weather in Marvão may be slightly colder than in Lisbon, for example. It may also rain frequently. Sometimes the rain showers are frequent but short, interspersed with sunshine, while other times they are more constant, making it quite unpleasant to walk around the city.
If you haven’t decided on a season yet, we recommend visiting the Castle of Marvão in the spring, preferably May, or in the autumn, preferably September. If you’re looking for a magical destination for your next Christmas, you can give Marvão a chance as well. The holiday atmosphere is truly enchanting in the region!
As we now settle into a new year and a fresh start, it is time to start thinking about life after NHR. For people who are already registered on the scheme, the benefits will continue. For those who made it into the grandfathering period, the same luxury will apply.
The government-approved budget for 2024 saw no significant changes to the tax regime. Income tax bands increased with inflation and the tax bands for the first five income bands were reduced, to help lower to middle-income earners.
That aside, a new regime will be introduced to replace NHR but will be focusing mainly on employment with no benefit to those retiring in Portugal. Those who qualify will benefit from a flat 20% rate on employment and self-employment income.
NHR was introduced back in 2009 to enable qualifying professionals to enjoy beneficial tax planning for a period of 10 years. Portugal will now be divided by those who are on NHR and those who are not. One thing as sure as death and taxes is that the number of people on NHR will reduce year on year until around the year 2035 when there will be no beneficiaries left.
Want to become part of the large community of US expats in Portugal? Sign up for Holborn Assets’ live webinar on the challenges facing US connected clients moving or living in Portugal. Find out all about the financial perks of moving to Portugal and have all your burning questions answered. The event is scheduled for May 16 at 5 pm (Lisbon Time) / 12 pm EST. If you would like to schedule a one-on-one call instead, you can book one here.
There are more than 11,000 NHRs in Portugal but whether you are lucky enough to be one of them, or missed the boat in applying, there will be a point where NHR will end for everyone. For those who are finishing their 10-year period, the decision will then be made as to whether to stay or go.
Portugal still offers many hidden gems, not just in its beautiful scenery but also in its financial structure. There are investment wrappers designed to dovetail with NHR (or standalone) that can provide an increasing tax benefit the longer they are held. This investment can reduce tax liabilities by up to 60%, providing a significant reduction in tax on investment or pension income.
People who are benefiting from NHR need to be looking at these long-term strategies. By putting plans in place now, you can reduce the tax you will need to pay after NHR ends. Significantly reducing the impact and making the transition far smoother.
For those who do not qualify for NHR, it is important to structure your finances in a way that protects you long-term. There are many benefits to be had in Portugal, it’s just essential that you identify these early to reap the rewards.
Portugal will always be a popular destination for people seeking a life in the sunshine. There are few other countries that can offer the same climate, scenery, and relaxed pace of life. The changes over the last year should not detract from this, but instead should just act as a further incentive to do your planning and make sure that you position yourself in the best possible way to live the life you always dreamed of.
Additionally, we’ll discuss tax implications, investment strategies, and how to maximize your financial potential in your new home. Join us to gain valuable insights and ensure a secure financial future in Portugal here.
What to visit in and around Sines? Beaches, many will say. It’s true, this little piece of Alentejo coastline is one of the most popular summer vacation destinations because of its cove beaches, especially the Porto Covo beaches which are some of the most beautiful in Portugal.
But it is also history, nature, and a source of pleasure. Birthplace of the navigator Vasco da Gama, one of the gateways to the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park, a crossing point on the unmissable Rota Vicentina, and home to a cuisine that combines the best of the sea and the Alentejo, visiting Sines is always a good idea for a getaway, even better for a relaxing vacation.
To help you plan your summer getaway or vacation in Sines and Porto Covo, I bring you this article, focusing on what to visit, what to see and do in Sines, the best beaches, and activities. I’ve also included our suggestions for trails, restaurants, and a lot more, so you don’t miss a thing about a territory that brings together the best of the Alentejo coast.
Where is Sines
Sines is a Portuguese port city in the Setúbal district, Alentejo region, and Alentejo Litoral sub-region, more precisely at the tip of Cape Sines. From São Torpes it is part of the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park and a small portion of the north of the municipality belongs to the Santo André Lagoon Nature Reserve.
Sines is 160 km from Lisbon and 130 km from Setúbal. Its neighboring municipalities are Odemira and Santiago do Cacém.
To get there by car from Lisbon, all you need to do is follow the A2 highway for about an hour. Once you reach Grândola, you’ll need to leave the highway and take the IP8 for a bit before joining the A26 highway, which will take you directly to Sines.
By bus, you’ll need to head to the Sete Rios station. There are several direct buses daily, so all you need to do is pick the time that works best for you.
Unfortunately, Sines doesn’t have a train station. But there are multiple daily trains to nearby Grândola. From there, a short bus ride will then take you to Sines.
When to Visit
Because of the fantastic beaches, summer is the best time of year to visit Sines. However, there is no shortage of reasons to visit Sines and Porto Covo all year round:
Sines Carnival (February/March): Sines is one of the Portuguese cities with the longest carnival tradition.
Spring Fair (April/May): Shows, entertainment for families and a traditional market to color the historic center for a weekend.
World Music Festival (July): The castle and its surroundings become an alternative universe, with eclectic music from the four corners of the world. This festival is already an international reference and, since 1999, the most important event in the municipality.
Tasquinhas Sines (July): Restaurants and stalls fill Avenida Vasco da Gama with flavor (and mouth-watering smells) to showcase the best of local cuisine.
Feast of Nossa Senhora das Salas (August 14 and 15): Although the patron saint of Sines is São Salvador, Nossa Senhora das Salas is the patron saint of the fishermen of Sines and the saint with the greatest popular cult.
Feast of Our Lady of Solitude (August 30): Porto Covo is celebrating.
Municipal Day celebrations (November 24th): Municipal holiday.
Natal no Largo (December): The magic of Christmas brought to the historic center with lights, color, and sparkle, a traditional market, and lots of street entertainment.
What to See and Do in Sines
A statue of Sines’ proud son, Vasco da Gama. Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr).
Find out what you’ve been missing by not visiting Sines. Get away from the preconceived image that Sines is just a container port (the largest in Portugal) and give a chance to a city that was shaped by the sea. No Portuguese land is so closely linked to Vasco da Gama, Sines’ most illustrious son, and the picturesque historic center revives the memory of the great navigator at every opportunity.
On a visit to Sines, here are the places and experiences you can’t miss:
Wander around the picturesque historic center. The main points of interest in the historic center of Sines are around Rua do Muro da Praia, Largo Poeta Bocage and Largo do Castelo. Take the opportunity to stroll along the shopping streets of Rua Teófilo Braga (formerly Rua Direita) and Rua Cândido Reis.
Climb up to Sines Castle, a fortification built to defend the coast from corsairs shortly after the conquest of the Algarve. It is still the best viewpoint overlooking the Bay of Sines. Walk along the ramparts and discover the Sines Museum, which includes the Keep, Vasco da Gama’s House, the Palace of the Military Governors, the Old Stables, the Old Barracks, and the Garrison House.
Visit the Church of the Savior, the parish church of Sines. Right next door is the Misericórdia Chapel, and opposite is the Emmerico Nunes Cultural Center.
Take a coffee break at Vela D’Ouro and treat yourself to the famous traditional sweets: Two Vasquinhos and two Al-Bertos for table 7. And a slice of the “Worst Chocolate Cake in the World”.
Right next to the castle walls and the main church, the statue of Vasco da Gama, the first man to make the sea voyage to India, still looks out to sea. But you can go down the famous Escadinhas do Muro da Praia, the main access to Vasco da Gama Beach.
Few people know about it, but follow this tip: go around the castle and discover the Roman Factories, a museum space with archaeological remains of fish factories that were only discovered in 1990 on the east side of the castle walls.
Take a stroll along the Sines waterfront to the Forte do Revelim or Forte de Nossa Senhora das Salvas where the Observatório do Mar (Museum of the Sea and the Port of Sines) is located, and take in the fishing port of Sines, a centuries-old tradition, with the fishing boats, the Bay of Sines and the hustle and bustle of the work coloring the historic center of Sines in the background.
Don’t miss out on the Penedo das Índias Walkways, climbing back up to the historic center while enjoying one of the best panoramic views of the bay.
The Church of Nossa Senhora das Salvas (or das Salas) goes unnoticed by many visitors, but it’s well worth a visit if only to contemplate the Manueline portico built by Vasco da Gama himself. If it’s open, don’t hesitate to go inside and admire the Treasure of Our Lady of Salas inside.
Take the car and head for Cabo de Sines, stop at the Lighthouse, extend the views over the long sandy beaches to Troia at the viewpoint on the north coast, or stretch your legs on the North Coast Walkway.
Take a stroll through the Alameda da Paz Garden and discover the history and life of the fishermen of Sines in the beautiful tile panels that decorate the walls of the Old Sines Railway Station.
Dare to discover the many secrets of this stretch of the Alentejo coast by heading to the village of Porto Covo. Head south along the M1109 and be dazzled by the first cove beaches in the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park. Get your bathing suit or camera ready because you won’t be able to resist the charms of these intimate and wild beaches sheltered by wonderful cliffs.
What to See and Do around Sines
Porto Covo’s main square seems right out of a postcard. Photo by Giovanni Prestige (Flickr).
Porto Covo
If Sines sounds appealing, pace yourself because just 13 km south is the crown jewel of the municipality: Porto Covo.
Porto Covo is a village of beaches, snacks, walks, and peace. Lots of peace! It will always be one of our favorite destinations for a getaway from the city to the Costa Vicentina. If you’re looking for a haven of choice, Porto Covo has to be on your list. The village is small, cozy and charming. But time is always short here. Here’s what you really can’t miss while you’re there:
Start your visit at the charismatic Largo Marquês de Pombal, centered on a pleasant garden, surrounded by houses so quaint that you feel like living inside them.
Enter the church, and admire the polychrome gilded altarpiece and the image of Nossa Senhora da Soledade, the patron saint venerated by the people of Porto Covo and the surrounding area for centuries.
From there, follow the Vasco da Gama pedestrian street towards the sea.
Once on the coast, enjoy a scenic stroll along the cliffs of Porto Covo with Pessegueiro Island and the iconic Porto Covo Lighthouse marking the horizon. On one side you’ll discover a handful of small beaches, including Praia dos Buizinhos, Praia Pequena, Praia do Banho and Praia do Espingardeiro. The views are simply magnificent! On the other side, Porto Covo Bay hides, with its small fishing port full of colorful boats.
Finish your walk along the cliffs at Praia Grande, the best “urban” beach for bathing in Porto Covo – it has everything you need.
A “real” walk along the cliff top leads to viewpoints with brutal views and two handfuls of sandy beaches. In addition to those mentioned above, there is also Praia da Gaivota, Praia da Cerca Nova, Praia do Salto (naturist), Praia do Serro da Águia, Praia de Porto Covinho and the beautiful Praia da Samoqueira.
Best Beaches in and around Sines
Beaches with a countryside atmosphere. Can’t get more relaxing than that! Photo by Giovanni Prestige (Flickr).
It’s impossible to visit Sines without visiting its beaches. When you visit Sines, put on your explorer’s clothes and set off to discover the treasures, as small as they are precious, that are the hidden coves along the 30 km of jagged coastline.
There are wider stretches of beach, but the majority are small beaches with fine sand and transparent water, sheltered by large rocks, which seem to have been made on purpose to create a feeling of intimacy and exclusivity. Of these, Morgável, Navalheira, Vale Figueiros, Serro da Águia, Oliveirinha, Foz and Canudos are names that only ring bells for those who know the coast like the back of their hand.
Vasco da Gama Beach
In the center of the Bay of Sines is the wide Vasco da Gama Beach, nestled between pontoons. The riverside promenade offers kilometers for jogging sessions or pleasant walks all year round. In summer, the calm sea invites you to take a dip and the sand invites you to sunbathe – the best guarded and accessible beach in Sines.
São Torpes Beach
São Torpes used to have the warmest water of the beaches on the Costa Vicentina, but the closure of the Sines thermoelectric plant at the beginning of 2021 put an end to the tropical waters. But the charms of São Torpes beach, put on the map by surfers, are all still there: the regular, gentle waves are simply perfect for getting started in the sport.
Samouqueira Beach
One of the most beautiful beaches in Porto Covo is Praia da Samoqueira. You’ll want to get to know every nook and cranny of this wild beach that meanders between the cliffs: caves, snacks, natural pools (a delight for the kids at low tide), and even a freshwater waterfall (if you’re very lucky!). The paradisiacal setting, golden sands, usually calm sea, and crystal-clear emerald waters are worth a visit. Fill up your cooler and go and (vi)see it in situ because no photo can do justice to all its attributes.
Porto Covo’s Praia Grande
The Praia Grande in Porto Covo is one of the most popular beaches on the Alentejo coast. It is guarded, sheltered, and has all the facilities to support bathers, but access is via a staircase in the cliffs. The white sands and clear waters of Praia Grande’s sandy beach are the delight of kids and adults alike who enjoy their summer vacations in Porto Covo. Bodyboarders and surfers the rest of the year.
Pessegueiro Island Beach
The most famous island in the Alentejo, Ilha do Pessegueiro, gave its name to the beach that stretches south of Porto Covo. Let’s face it, not everyone knows the beach that inspired Rui Veloso’s song. As such, it remains a less populated stronghold. In the summer, there are boats that cross to visit the ruins of Santo Alberto Fort on Pessegueiro Island, with its unique flora and fauna.
In addition to the beach, there is the Fort of Nossa Senhora da Queimada and unique sand cliffs under a giant stone slab facing the sea.
Best Trails in and around Sines
As I mentioned at the beginning, Sines is a crossing point on the Rota Vicentina, one of the best major routes in Europe, certified as a Leading Quality Trail.
Of the network of hiking and mountain bike trails that make up the Rota Vicentina, the Fishermen’s Trail is one of the most beautiful coastal trails in the world and the section that runs through the municipality of Sines goes from São Torpes to Vila Nova de Milfontes, passing through Porto Covo. Add two days to your itinerary to visit Sines and Porto Covo and discover one of the most beautiful pieces of coastline in the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park.
Where to Eat in Sines
Of all the reasons to visit Sines and Porto Covo, gastronomy is one of the main ones.
It took the açordas and feijoadas from the Alentejo countryside and gave them a special taste of the sea. Directly from the Sines fish market and directly from the Alentejo plains come the fresh ingredients that the restaurants transform into delicacies, many of them combining the pure pleasure of food with breathtaking views of the ocean.
Sines Winery
A typical restaurant in the heart of Sines’ historic quarter, where the service is fast, in the old tavern style, and the food is comforting.
Cais da Estação
An old railway station warehouse has been converted into a restaurant that focuses on quality. We went for the house specialty, razor clam rice with fried cuttlefish, and left converted.
Zé Inácio (Porto Covo)
At Zé Inácio, grilled fish is king and master. But the polvo à lagareiro, fish cataplana, fried cuttlefish, and monkfish rice are not far behind. For dessert, the sweet migas reign supreme.
What to Visit around Sines
Vila Nova de Milfontes. Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr).
Vila Nova de Milfontes
Less than 20 km from Porto Covo, Vila Nova de Milfontes is a gem nestled between the sea and the River Mira. Wander through the charming streets of the historic center, where you’ll find the Church of Nossa Senhora da Graça and the Fort of São Clemente. Enjoy the tranquillity of Praia da Franquia, on the banks of the River Mira. Take a stroll along the promenade that connects the fort to the Vila Nova de Milfontes Lighthouse and end the day watching the sunset at Praia do Farol.
Cape Sardão
Another 20 km and you’ll discover the majestic Cabo Sardão, the westernmost point of the Alentejo coast and the only place in Europe where storks nest on the coastline. A towering lighthouse, a silent sentinel guiding the brave men of the sea, welcomes you, but it’s the overwhelming views from the cliff tops and the omnipresent peace, interspersed with the crashing of the waves on the cliffs and the whispering of the wind, that will win your heart.
Zambujeira do Mar
Like a glittering tiara, Zambujeira do Mar crowns the high cliffs that line Zambujeira Beach, one of the best beaches on the Alentejo coast. Perched on top of the cliffs, the white houses, lined up along streets full of Alentejo atmosphere, are brightened up by the diadem that is the Chapel of Nossa Senhora do Mar, located in a square whose views would make any soul praise the heavens. It’s the perfect place to watch the sunset!
Santiago do Cacém
Santiago do Cacém, a Templar land, is a peaceful and pleasant town crowned by the Moorish Castle, the Mother Church, and the imposing walls. Down the hill are the manor houses that impress and hint at the glory of the city of yesteryear. And on the outskirts, the fascinating Roman ruins of Miróbriga. The territory is a mixture of Alentejo, hills, sea and pine forest. From the hills of Cercal, 346 meters high, you can see the vastness of the sea to the west. But head to the Lagoas de Santo André and Sancha Nature Reserve to get a closer look and get to know this sanctuary of flora and fauna.
Santo André Lagoon Nature Reserve
Between the Atlantic Ocean and the placid waters of the brackish lagoons, the Santo André and Sancha Lagoons Nature Reserve is a nesting ground for thousands of birds and a paradise for birdwatching enthusiasts, especially in the cold months. Good winds bring birds and kitesurfers and windsurfers. In the summer, the birds give you license and give up “pallets” of space on the long sandy beach of Praia da Costa to dry off in the sun after dives with and (more or less) without salt. Don’t miss a stroll along the walkways, on the sand or on the shores of the lagoon at sunset.
Off We Go
So, what do you say? Explore the charming historic center of Sines, where Vasco da Gama’s legacy echoes through cobbled streets. Follow the cliffside trails, discover secret beaches, and savor the fusion of sea and Alentejo flavors in local eateries.
Don’t stop there — extend your adventure to nearby gems like Vila Nova de Milfontes, Cape Sardão, Zambujeira do Mar, Santiago do Cacém, and the Santo André Lagoon Nature Reserve. Each destination unfolds a unique tapestry of history, landscapes, and wildlife.
Whether you time your visit with lively festivals or opt for a quiet retreat, Sines promises (and delivers!) a journey through the heart of the Alentejo coast. I hope this article was your guide to a getaway filled with awe, discovery, and the warm embrace of Portuguese hospitality. Happy trips!
Bragança is capital of Portugal’s second least populous district. Photo by Pedro Nuno Caetano (Flickr).
Let’s face it, exploring Bragança is an absolute must, even though it’s a destination often postponed due to perceived distance. From a distance, it miraculously comes closer, revealing the untapped tourist allure of the Municipality of Bragança, situated in the Northeast of Portugal. Here, I present a curated itinerary for your journey through Bragança, featuring notable attractions, recommended accommodations in and around Bragança, culinary landmarks in local restaurants, and an interactive map to ensure you don’t miss a beat during your visit.
This northern Portuguese municipality, nestled in Trás-os-Montes, played a pivotal role in safeguarding the Portuguese border, carrying a historically significant legacy in the nation’s formation. Various civilizations, including Celts, Romans, and Arabs, once occupied this land, and even neighboring Castile coveted this piece of Transmontana Cold Land. Its strategic importance has been acknowledged since 1187, earning a special charter from Portuguese monarchs, and in 1464, it achieved city status.
Bragança’s district forms part of the UNESCO-recognized Transboundary Biosphere Reserve of the Iberian Plateau. The region boasts a natural heritage of rare beauty and diversity, encompassing two natural parks within its boundaries: the lush mountain vegetation in Montesinho Natural Park and the majestic cliffs of the river canyon in the International Douro Natural Park. Additionally, the Terras de Cavaleiros Geopark showcases rock formations unique in the world, and a significant portion of the Regional Natural Park of the Tua Valley contributes to the area’s natural splendor.
Given these remarkable features, it’s no surprise that the latest tourism promotion campaign proudly declares, “Naturally Bragança.” Beyond being a mere phrase, “naturally” perfectly encapsulates this remote region where inhabitants maintain an intimate and respectful relationship with nature, viewing it as sustenance, shelter, and inspiration.
The reality is this: Bragança is much closer than anticipated and stands as a compelling destination for a getaway, a cultural excursion, or even an extended vacation.
How to Get There
Bragança stands as the capital of the northeasternmost district of Portugal, forming, along with Vila Real, the Trás-os-Montes region in the North of Portugal. Positioned along the border, this borderland district shares boundaries with Spain to the north and east, specifically with the provinces of Ourense, Zamora, and Salamanca.
For those journeying by car, it is the preferred means of reaching Bragança. The primary and swiftest routes into the city are the A4 and IP2. It takes less than 5 hours to cover the approximately 500 km between Lisbon and Bragança. This is attributed to Bragança’s well-connected road infrastructure. From Porto, the 200 km separating the two cities can be covered in just over 2 hours. Bragança also enjoys a strategic location in proximity to major Spanish cities such as Zamora, Salamanca, and Madrid.
Traveling by bus is another option, with daily services to Bragança departing from major Portuguese cities. Although the journey is lengthy and time-consuming, it offers an economical solution for solo travelers.
It’s worth noting that Bragança does not have a train connection.
A Bit of History
Bragança’s castle is one of the oldest in Portugal. Photo by José Antonio Gil Martínez (Flickr).
The history of Bragança traces back to ancient times, with evidence of human settlement in the region dating back to the pre-Roman era. The Celts, an ancient Indo-European people, were among the early inhabitants of this land. Their influence and cultural imprint have left a lasting legacy in the historical tapestry of Bragança. As different civilizations ebbed and flowed, the Celts played a crucial role in shaping the identity of the region.
With the rise of the Roman Empire, Bragança became part of the vast Roman territory. The Romans, known for their engineering prowess and strategic vision, recognized the geographical significance of Bragança. The region served as a crucial point in the defense of the northern frontier of the empire. The Roman presence left an indelible mark on the landscape, and remnants of their occupation can still be found in archaeological sites scattered throughout the area.
During the Moorish period in the Iberian Peninsula, Bragança witnessed cultural interactions and influences. The Moors, with their advanced knowledge in various fields, contributed to the development of agriculture, architecture, and arts in the region. The coexistence of different cultures during this time laid the foundation for the rich diversity that characterizes Bragança today.
As the Middle Ages unfolded, Bragança emerged as a key player in the defense of the Portuguese border against neighboring Castile. The strategic location of Bragança made it a focal point in the territorial disputes between the two kingdoms. In 1187, recognizing its strategic importance, Bragança was granted a special charter by Portuguese monarchs, solidifying its role as a fortified stronghold.
In 1464, Bragança reached a significant milestone when it was elevated to city status. This period marked a Renaissance influence, bringing advancements in arts, architecture, and governance. The city’s skyline began to evolve with the construction of notable landmarks, reflecting the prosperity and cultural vibrancy of Bragança during this era.
As Portugal entered the modern era, Bragança continued to evolve. In contemporary times, Bragança gained international recognition with its inclusion in the UNESCO-recognized Transboundary Biosphere Reserve of the Iberian Plateau. This acknowledgment underscores the city’s commitment to preserving its natural and cultural heritage.
When to Visit
Autumn in Bragança is a spectacle of color. Photo by Libânia Pereira (Flickr).
The optimal time to visit Bragança hinges on individual preferences and interests. If your aim is to delve into the rich historical and cultural heritage while savoring regional gastronomy, any season is perfect.
In the local Transmontano vernacular, the phrase “nine months of winter and three of hell” is commonly used to describe the climate of the Cold Lands and Transmontano plateaus prevailing in the Bragança district. It’s true that the region is renowned (and thrives) for its prolonged cold winters and short, hot summers.
Temperatures are milder in late spring and early autumn, making these times ideal for leisurely walks.
In spring, rain and thaw fill rivers, streams, and brooks that run wild. The rolling hills are adorned with floral hues dominated by cistus, broom, heather, and more. Almond trees in bloom, from March to April, create a rare spectacle, blanketing the territory in a white cloak, distinct from the winter snow that makes the city glisten.
Autumn brings the long-awaited freshness after hot summer days, which can be unforgiving here. The landscape is painted in enchanting warm autumnal tones: stubble fields turn rural landscapes to gold, plowed earth presents a complete palette of reddish hues, alder trees trace yellow lines along watercourses, oranges, browns, and Bordeaux dominate vineyards and adorn oaks, the golden foliage of beech trees…
Amidst the two distinct intense greens of chestnut trees, extending as far as the eye can see: the dark green of the foliage and the light green of chestnut husks. With the falling leaves, nature “weaves” plush carpets of multicolored foliage, inviting one to roll around.
Low temperatures don’t deter the locals, known as brigantinos, from celebrating the cycle of life and nature, a central theme in their most distinctive traditions and customs. In fact, a variety of popular and cultural events fill the Winter Festivals (usually from November to February/March), perhaps unknown to most Portuguese but lived more intensely by the locals.
Make a note of these dates in your calendar if you plan to visit Bragança during one of its most significant events:
Bragança Festival (August): The peak time to visit Bragança is in the summer when days are long and the events calendar is brimming with festivals and activities. The highlight is undoubtedly the Festas de Bragança, dedicated to the patron saint, Nossa Senhora das Graças, culminating on the municipal holiday of August 22.
December/January: From Saint Stephen’s Day to Epiphany, there is no lull in the villages of Bragança during the Festas dos Rapazes. After all, the Caretos don’t only hit the streets during Carnival. Each village has its ancient traditions to celebrate the winter solstice, whose origins are lost in memory but intertwine Celtic solstice rites, Zoelas customs, juvenile revelry, and Roman calends.
Burning of the Devil (Carnival): Carnival is always an excellent time to visit Bragança and its surroundings. On the Saturday before Carnival, the city streets fill with Caretos from neighboring villages, and even from León and Zamora. Adorned in their traditional costumes and reviving ancient customs, they run, jump, jingle, and play through the streets, culminating at Bragança Castle with the Burning of the Devil. In the following days, until Ash Wednesday, you can catch them in their respective villages.
Deer Rut Season (September and October): Okay, it’s not a festival, but it’s an experience, and nature enthusiasts appreciate the unique spectacle of the Red Deer Rut (mating season). With some luck, you can hear a dozen males from the red deer population of the Montesinho Natural Park bellowing loudly to attract females.
November: As the harvest season concludes, attention turns to numerous markets and fairs, chestnut-themed festivals and gatherings (a fundamental product in Trás-os-Montes), and mycological routes (for those eager to learn more about wild mushrooms).
What to See
Now it’s time to dive in and embark on an enchanting journey through Bragança, where history unfolds amidst architectural wonders, revealing the city’s rich tapestry. The Historical Center, a relatively compact area, beckons exploration on foot, offering three essential nuclei for first-time visitors: the Bragança Castle and Citadel, Museums Street, and Sé Square.
Bragança’s Historical Center
The shape of Bragança’s castle is so distinct that any Portuguese is able to recognize it from just a glance. Photo by José Antonio Gil Martínez (Flickr).
Bragança, a city with heart, symbolized by the embracing walls of Bragança Castle around its oldest and still thriving borough, the Citadel. Your journey begins here, at the elevated part of the city. Whether entering through the Sun Gate (east) or the Village Gate (west), the Castle Square is sure to leave you in awe. Bragança Castle, one of Portugal’s most beautifully preserved castles with stunning Gothic windows, stands tall. Explore the 15th-century Keep, housing the distinguished Military Museum of Bragança. Immerse yourself in fantasy at the legendary Princess Tower and ascend one of the turrets for breathtaking views of Bragança and its surroundings.
Discover other must-see attractions within the Citadel, including the Church of Santa Maria (or Nossa Senhora do Sardão), the oldest originally Romanesque church in Bragança, now adorned with Baroque and Renaissance elements revealing astonishing three-dimensional paintings. Adjacent to it, find the enigmatic Domus Municipalis, a unique pentagonal Romanesque building, believed to be a meeting place for the “good men,” some of whom convened in secrecy.
Explore the Iberian Mask and Costume Museum within the Citadel, a captivating collection of traditional Caretos masks. Stroll along the castle walls, unraveling more charms of the Citadel, such as the medieval Pillory mounted on a boar, a zoomorphic representation of a carved granite sow, bearing witness to the city’s Celtic origins. Lose yourself in narrow, cobbled streets, ancient and full of character, lined with picturesque houses that seem to have forgotten the passage of time.
Outside the walls, take time to wander through the Castle Garden, and discover the Queen’s Fountain, and the Chapel of Our Lady of Health. Marvel at the aesthetic beauty of the Mudéjar ceiling in the Church of São Bento and the mannerist facade of the Convent and Church of São Francisco, significant on the pilgrims’ route to Santiago de Compostela, where recent discoveries unveiled medieval frescoes.
Museum Street
Bragança’s Museum Street is one of the coolest and most underappreciated in Portugal. Photo by Pedro Nuno Caetano (Flickr).
Continue your exploration, descending to Museum Street, officially Abílio Beça Street. In just 500 meters, encounter five noteworthy museums, attracting history, archaeology, ethnography, and art enthusiasts: the Abade de Baçal Museum, the Graça Morais Contemporary Art Center, the Georges Dussaud Photography Center, the Bragança Sephardic Memorial and Documentation Center, and the Northeast Transmontano Sephardic Culture Interpretation Center.
As you stroll down Museum Street, explore the Churches of São Vicente, Mercy, and Santa Clara in the former convent, where the patroness of Bragança, Our Lady of Grace, is venerated.
Main Square
No Bragança itinerary is complete without a visit to the Sé, in the main square, a spacious and airy square centered around a cross, presided over by the Old Cathedral of Bragança. Dating back to the 16th century, the Old Cathedral was initially intended as a convent for the Clarisse nuns. Eventually handed over to the Jesuits, it became one of the most prestigious colleges in the region. In 1764, the episcopal seat was transferred from Miranda do Douro to Bragança, and the convent complex and church, dedicated to Saint John the Baptist and the Holy Name of Jesus, became the diocesan cathedral. Set aside time to explore the church; it is well worth it!
The remaining architectural complex of the convent was renovated in 2004 by the municipality, transforming it into the Municipal Cultural Center Adriano Moreira, the Municipal Library, the Adriano Moreira Library, the Trás-os-Montes Academy of Letters, the Music Conservatory, exhibition halls, and a city memory space. Most cultural spaces are accessible through Camões Square, a vast square used for major city events and the location of the old market.
The Unseen Bragança
Dusk at a snowy Bragança is something out of a fairytale. Photo by Luis Mota (Flickr).
Bragança’s charm extends beyond its architectural heritage and historical and cultural landmarks. A visit to Bragança becomes truly fulfilling when leisurely strolling through its streets, alleys, and squares, appreciating the details and facades of old buildings—some humble, others opulent.
These wanderings unveil hidden gems like the Green Corridor, a sequence of boardwalks flanking the Fervença River (applauded for its riverbank restaurant scene) leading to the Bragança Science Center, Casa da Seda, the viewpoint of the Chapel of Our Lady of Pity, and the lush Urban Park.
In line with the city’s ecological consciousness, emphasizing green space beautification, there’s also a commitment to street art. Drawing inspiration from the region’s identity, Bragança is making its mark on the international street art map. From remarkable murals and installations by globally recognized artists like Bordalo II (whose “Chameleon,” “Genet,” and “Wild Boar” adorn the streets), to subtle decorative motifs with messages, Bragança is earning a spot in the global street art scene.
Challenge yourself to see Bragança with fresh eyes after exploring the vibrant heart of the city. Change your perspective and take in the marvelous views of the city, castle, walled citadel, and colorful houses from the São Bartolomeu Sanctuary Overlook. It’s the perfect vantage point to bid farewell to this “beautiful Transmontana,” whose enchantment captivates like a spell, leaving a desire to return.
Around Bragança
Explore the wealth of the Transmontana region, where Bragança stands as a testament to secular honors and royal favor for its role in the nation’s construction. This journey goes beyond the city’s invaluable heritage, encompassing two additional treasures: the people of Bragança and the natural heritage.
Montesinho Natural Park
Often overshadowed by the neighboring Peneda-Gerês Park, the Montesinho Park is a natural wonder well worth a visit. Photo by Wolf Gang (Flickr).
The lush green expanse of the undulating Montesinho Natural Park awaits just beyond Bragança’s gates. Enhance your Bragança itinerary by immersing yourself in pure, untouched, and wild nature. A significant portion of Portugal’s terrestrial fauna, including the Iberian Wolf and Red Deer, finds sanctuary here. September and October bring the fascinating (and spine-chilling) experience of hearing the Red Deer’s Roar, one of the planet’s unique mating calls. Montesinho’s beauty was even visited by a Cantabrian Brown Bear in 2019. Who knows, maybe the next visit will bring a friend to settle in Portugal.
The green palette adorning Montesinho’s mountains is dominated by oak groves, cork oak forests, and chestnut groves (Bragança is the largest chestnut producer in Portugal). The trail opportunities are virtually infinite and surprising. Idyllic waterfalls and river beaches provide refreshing spots after hikes. If walking isn’t your forte, embark on a 4×4 adventure to explore the natural sanctuary that is Montesinho Natural Park.
Rio de Onor
One of the 7 Wonders of Portugal Villages, Rio de Onor is a village literally traversed by the invisible line of the border with Spain and the river it shares its name with. Nestled in Montesinho Natural Park, the village seamlessly integrates into the landscape of this remote Trás-os-Montes, where its greatest heritage is its people. The rhythmic dialect of Rio de Onor still resonates from the flowery balconies of the typical shale houses. Twin sisters, Rio de Onor and Rihonor de Castilla, form a single community with fifty Portuguese and Spanish residents, maintaining the true spirit of communal life, akin to a family. Beautiful and captivating, Rio de Onor rightfully secures a place on our list of the most beautiful villages in Portugal.
Gimonde
Gimonde is a hidden gem, very close to Bragança. Photo by Pedro Nuno Caetano (Flickr).
Gimonde is a must-stop village in any Bragança itinerary, renowned for its gastronomic delights. Beyond the excellence of Mirandese Steak and the quality of Porco Bísaro smoked products, there’s a rural charm that captivates everyone. This charm emanates from the typical shale houses, the towering church, life set to the rhythm of the countryside, and the rivers that traverse it—the Igrejas River and the Sabor River. With bridges crossing them—the old shale bridge, the new granite bridge, and stepping stones that we can’t resist hopping across (one day we might misjudge the distance and impulse and end up in the water).
Montesinho Village
The mountain village of Montesinho lends its name to the natural park in its heart. Invisible until the last moment, those arriving by road are surprised by a vibrant, colorful, beautiful, and lively shale village, especially when visitors fill the two squares in front of the village cafes. Recognizing its tourism potential, the village underwent revitalization, offering astonishing Rural Tourism accommodations for a village of this size—a perfect refuge from urban hustle and bustle.
Monastery of Castro de Avelãs
A mere 5 km west of Bragança lies what could be Portugal’s sole example of Mudéjar Romanesque architecture—the Monastery of Castro de Avelãs. The church’s brick masonry apse, likely predating the 12th century, still stands.
Outeiro
Passersby on the road would never suspect that this unassuming village harbors one of Portugal’s greatest treasures of religious architecture—not a church but a basilica. The only village basilica in Portugal belongs to the municipality of Bragança and more than deserves a visit. After marveling at the Basilica of Santo Cristo do Outeiro, wander through the village’s streets and squares, ascending to the hilltop where remnants of the Outeiro Castle, like an imperfect crown, still remain.
Where to Eat
From traditional dishes to innovative creations, these dining establishments promise a delightful experience for every palate.
Taberna do Javali
Nestled within the citadel of Bragança Castle, Taberna do Javali offers a refreshing and intriguing culinary experience. Whether you opt for tapas or a full meal, the enticing names on the menu are surpassed only by the flavorful dishes. Named after the wild boar, the restaurant crafts succulent boar steaks and burgers that stand out. While the wait time might test your patience, every dish is prepared on the spot, ensuring a slow but rewarding service. Take your time, savor the moment, and indulge in the innovative offerings that continually emerge from the kitchen.
Specialties:
Crispy chicken strips with spicy sauce
Ham with tomatoes
Chouriça sausage
Game burger
Wild boar steak sandwich
Wild boar loin
Pork loin
Veal loin
Transmontana salad
Ham and avocado risotto
Mixed sweets
Chestnut tart
Chickpea tart
Lemon mousse
White chocolate
Restaurante O Careto
Situated in the heart of Varge village, Restaurante O Careto pays homage to traditional Transmontana gastronomy in a meticulously crafted rustic setting. Amidst the acclaimed Mirandese steaks and chops, discover age-old flavors that almost slipped through time. Indulge in generous servings of grilled cod with mashed potatoes, and a surprising open-grilled conger eel. Delight in tastes of yesteryear, such as the homemade Potted Iron Pot Rooster.
Specialties:
Cheese, ham, and chouriço appetizers
Grilled cod with mashed potatoes
Open-grilled conger eel
Veal steak
Veal chop
Homemade Potted Iron Pot Rooster (available by reservation)
Cheese with pumpkin jam
Cheese with cherry jam
Egg custard
Restaurante O Abel
A must-stop in the village of Gimonde, Restaurante O Abel beckons with over thirty years of dedication to authentic regional flavors and traditional dishes. From a humble tapas joint, it transformed into a renowned restaurant, witnessing its space expand as the clientele multiplied. Despite the transition from “tripe with beans in a bowl” to the finest grilled Transmontana meats, the family atmosphere has remained unchanged. Abel’s Steak has no rival, and the secret lies in the sauce infused with local aromatic herbs, bringing the essence of the region to the palate. Arrive hungry and early, as reservations are not accepted, and you might have to wait your turn.
Specialties:
Regional smoked sausage, ham, and grilled chouriço
Sheep cheese
Abel’s Steak
Veal Chop
Rodeão (beef cut)
Lamb
Picantone (grilled chicken)
Grilled cod with olive oil
Chestnut pudding
Cheese pudding
Chocolate mousse
Caramelized pumpkin
Solar Bragançano
Reserved in advance yet unreserved in the art of hospitality and culinary excellence, Solar Bragançano, located in Praça da Sé, is an embodiment of nobility. The true aristocracy lies not only in the garden, salons, fine woods, and decor but in the kitchen, elevating game, meat, and fish dishes to unparalleled heights. The menu, a seductive poem to the palate, features carefully selected wines and a culinary experience that is nothing short of captivating.
Specialties:
Regional smoked sausage
Fried trout
Mushrooms
Ham, cheeses
Trout with ham sauce
Solar’s grilled cod
Sole
Sea bass
Congo fish
Solar’s Veal steak
Mirandese Veal Sirloin
Montesinho Kid
Canhono Mirandês (lamb)
Partridge, Pheasant, Wild boar, Deer, Hare
Golden pumpkin
Burnt custard
Cherry soup
Off We Go
What are you waiting for? Bragança is waiting for you! Photo by Pedro Nuno Caetano (Flickr).
As you can see, the journey through Bragança unfolds as a captivating exploration of history, culture, and natural wonders. This northeastern Portuguese gem, with its rich historical tapestry dating back to ancient civilizations, stands as a testament to the resilience and strategic significance of the nation’s formation.
As you wander through the Historical Center of Bragança, the heart of this enchanting city, we are transported through time. The well-preserved Bragança Castle and Citadel, the intriguing Museums Street, and the serene Sé Square offer a glimpse into the diverse layers of Bragança’s past. The Unseen Bragança reveals hidden gems, from the Green Corridor along the Fervença River to the burgeoning street art scene, adding a contemporary flair to the city’s charm.
Venturing beyond Bragança’s boundaries, you’ll discover Montesinho Natural Park, a haven of biodiversity and tranquility. The villages of Rio de Onor, Gimonde, and Montesinho each contribute a unique flavor to the region, blending natural beauty with cultural richness. Culinary delights further enhance the Bragança experience, from traditional dishes to innovative creations, these establishments reflect the region’s gastronomic prowess.
Bragança is not just a destination; it’s an immersion into a world where history whispers through the cobblestone streets, nature beckons with open arms, and the warmth of the people adds a touch of genuine hospitality. Whether you come for the festivals, the Red Deer Rut, or the winter celebrations, Bragança invites you to discover its allure—”Naturally Bragança.” So, whether it’s a brief getaway, a cultural excursion, or an extended vacation, Bragança awaits, closer and more captivating than one might imagine.
The family of a Portuguese hacker, who is potentially facing years of incarceration in the United States, appealed to the Portuguese President of the Republic Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa.
The 24-year-old Portuguese national and citizen had been the subject of investigation for years, and in 2021 the authorities of the United States already had a case against him. Diogo, the hacker, had been around the dark web since he was 14, and between 2015 and 2022 chose to set up and maintain one of the biggest platforms for buying and selling stolen company data.
Given the common practice of non-extradition between Portugal and the United States, especially if the crime was performed on national grounds, the US authorities were waiting for Diogo to leave the country.
Eventually, in 2022, Diogo was arrested in London. Shortly after, a court from Virginia sent a document requesting Diogo’s extradition, so that he could be accused and prosecuted for the crimes of conspiracy, device access fraud, and aggravated identity theft. All related to his role as creator of the dark web platform. Note that even though he was arrested, Diogo paid bail and is currently under house arrest in his apartment in London.
Even though Diogo’s crimes were committed on Portuguese soil, the effects of those crimes were felt across the ocean. Diogo’s crimes affected companies from the United States and, for that reason, the country is requesting its extradition. If extradited, Diogo is facing more than 50 years in prison.
Given the reality of the scenario, one of Diogo’s family members decided to appeal to the Portuguese President of the Republic, in the form of an email, requesting his assistance.
Upon receiving the email, the President delegated the matter to the Portuguese Government.
The Minister for Foreign Affairs and the Minister of Justice say their hands are tied. In fact, the Minister for Foreign Affairs stated that the Ministry has no knowledge of any extradition process related to Diogo.
The Minister of Justice, on the other hand, stated that the Ministry could not legally intervene. The truth is that matters like this are under the umbrella of the Ministry of Justice. Moreover, the President says he cannot get involved because it is a judiciary matter.
In parallel with the accusations in the United States, Diogo is also being charged with money laundering in Portugal. That is what the defense attorneys hope will help with the appeal process. Note that Diogo is already appealing a decision that agrees with his extradition from the United Kingdom to the United States.
Moreover, Diogo’s attorneys made clear that the Portuguese justice already helped one of its nationals in a similar situation (the famous hacker, Rui Pinto), and the difference in treatment between both is absurd. Contrary to Rui, Diogo does not seem to be getting any help.
Diogo stated that he does not want to avoid justice and is prepared to pay for his mistakes. However, he wants to do it in Portugal.
According to the last political polls published by Católica University, the majority of the population sees a government formed by the Democratic Alliance party, and other right-wing parties, as the best solution for the country.
In the context of the upcoming legislative elections, the statistics center of the university undertook its regular political poll.
The sample corresponded to 1192 voters. The findings were as follows:
31% prefer a government that unites the Democratic Alliance and other right-wing parties. The two right-wing parties that were referenced the most for that union were CHEGA (16%) and IL (Liberal Initiative) (14%).
23% believe that a left-wing government, uniting the Socialist Party and other left wing parties, is the best option. The parties that were referenced the most for that union were Bloco de Esquerda (19%), CDU (12%), Livre (6%), and PAN (4%).
15% would like a more central government that would unite the Socialist Party and the Social Democratic Party.
11% believes in an absolute majority government from the Social Democratic Party, and 8% in an absolute majority of the Socialist Party.
When questioned if, independently of their preferences, they believed that the legislative elections would result in an absolute majority government, the voters responded as follows:
83% think it will not happen. 11% think that it will happen. 6% are unsure.
When questioned about who should rule if there is not an absolute majority, the voters said the following:
53% believe it should be the party with more votes. 41% said that it should be the party that was able to gather more parliamentary support and, with that, a majority.
Perhaps the last cold month of the year in Lisbon, February brings with it a variety of activities and events that you should not miss out on. From concerts and exhibitions to workshops and book clubs, let’s take a look at what’s on in Lisbon this February so that you take advantage of what the capital has to offer this month.
Candlelight: The Best of ABBA
Candlelight Concerts has events in over 100 cities with 3 million attendees all over the world, offering a one-of-a-kind experience in a candlelit setting. This month’s Candlelight with the Best of ABBA is happening at the Altis Grand Hotel in Lisbon, illuminated by candles.
A string quartet will play Dancing Queen, Mamma Mia, Waterloo, and all your other ABBA favorites. The concert is 60 minutes long and is the perfect evening for a date night or a night out with friends.
Photo by Mike Labrum (Unsplash)
Treasures from Kings Exhibition
The exhibition “O Tesouro dos Reis” at the Terra Sancta Museum at Calouste Gulbenkian is available until February 26. This exhibition showcases contributions spanning five centuries, featuring donations from European Catholic monarchs to churches in the region, taking visitors from Jerusalem to Portugal for the first time.
At the heart of the exhibition are notable gifts such as the church lamp sent to Jerusalem by Portugal’s King D. João V and the intricately designed baldachin donated by Charles VII, King of Naples, housing a precious monstrance or crucifix.
The exhibition also highlights the connection between Calouste Gulbenkian and the Holy Land, featuring a 15th-century Armenian illuminated manuscript gifted by the collector to the Armenian Patriarchate of Jerusalem.
Visit from Wednesday to Monday, with weekday hours from 10 am to 6 pm and extended weekend hours from 10 am to 9 pm.
Calouste Gulbenkian Museum. Photo by Rui Alves (Unsplash)
Torres Vedras Carnaval
Many are unaware, but Carnaval is a big deal in some areas of Portugal, particularly in Torres Vedras, around 50 kilometers from Lisbon. The Torres Vedras Carnaval is arguably the most famous in the whole country, offering days of festivities and parties for a unique experience. These include a masked ball, parade, and DJ parties until 4 am.
The Carnaval in Torres Vedras has been celebrated since the early 1900s, although it only became larger and more available to those in Lisbon in the 1930s. In 1985, a new period of the Torres Vedras carnival began, with an official organizing commission that chose an annual theme.
This year, from February 9 to 14, the theme is “Carnaval of the Future”. An interesting aspect of the Torres Vedras Carnaval is the “matrafonas”, where all the men dress up as women, a tradition from the 1920s. Unlike drag, the tradition is that men dress ridiculously and without style, not trying to “pass” as women. On Monday, there will be a “Matrafonas” contest.
Photo by Cláudio Franco (Flickr)
February’s Queer Book Club at Fable
Head to the Fable, a delightful English bookshop in Lisbon, known for its delicious baked goods and matchas. This month, Fable is hosting a Queer Book Club session, geared towards members of the LGBTQ+ community and allies.
The discussion will be led by the book club host, Maria Eilersen, and you are welcome to share your thoughts on the book or just listen. The book of the month is “Girlcrush”, a dark feminist comedy written by bestselling author Florence Given.
In this debut novel, Eartha embarks on a contemporary and captivating journey as she openly embraces her bisexuality, becoming a viral sensation on Wonder Land, a social media app where users project their idealized selves online.
Books. Photo by Gülfer ERGİN (Unsplash)
Ceviche & Pisco Sour Workshop
Foodies and aspiring mixologists rejoice! CHOCLO Ceviche, a delicious Peruvian restaurant in Lisbon is hosting a Ceviche & Pisco Sour workshop. The workshop is led by acclaimed chef Matías de Araujo.
In the three hours, you will get to dive into the world of Peruvian cuisine, learn how to marinate seafood and make incredible ceviche, as well as discover the flavors of Pisco Sours.
Photo by Johann Trasch (Unsplash)
Tea Ceremony, Sharing & Singing – Special to welcome in the Lunar New Year
Experience the ancient art of Cha Dao, ‘The Way of Tea,‘ a practice followed by monks and sages for centuries as a means to reach a meditative state. According to this experience, tea considered a compassionate plant teacher, enhances our bond with nature, simplicity, and beauty. This is a unique Lunar New Year Edition of Cha Dao, where you’ll engage in the dance of the elements through the tea leaves, and savor the captivating vocals of Mieka.
Real Fado at Pavilhão Chines
Real Fado celebrates the traditional Lisbon song of Fado, listed as UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage. The name pays homage to its birthplace, “Príncipe Real,” Lisbon’s coolest neighborhood, blending splendid views, romantic gardens, and a charming urban fabric with the trendiest shops and restaurants in the capital.
There are three events in February, each featuring a different but equally incredible fadista. Hosted at Pavilhão Chines, a unique Principe Real bar that first opened in 1986 and features five different rooms.
These were the last words from Downstairs at Betty’s, the first singalong piano bar in Lisbon, on their Facebook page after closing their doors for good on November 25, 2023.
On November 10, 2022, just over a year before, I left Lisbon for the winter. The next day, by sheer coincidence, a singalong piano bar named Downstairs at Betty’s opened a few blocks from Avenida da Liberdade. An American expat in Lisbon named Matt Colagiuri had spent 4.5 years from initially conceiving the idea to watching the first customers stand around the piano while a photo of his whimsical grandmother Betty smiled from across the room.
Owner Matt Colagiuri at Downstairs at Betty’s, Photo by Becky Gillespie
Who was Betty?
“Growing up,” Matt explained, “our family celebrated Christmas Day at my grandparents’ house. Cousins, aunts, uncles—everyone. After dinner, we would retire to the den (which was downstairs…) and sit around the piano and sing holiday songs. Downstairs at Betty’s is an homage to my childhood Christmas memories. As the eldest son of the eldest son of the eldest son—as far back as anyone can trace—in an Italian family, I grew up with a mountain of expectations heaped on me. Betty (my mom’s mom), was the only one who seemed interested in learning what it was that made MY heart sing, rather than THEIRS. My grandfather was a successful business man. People knew and recognized his name. But there were no memorials to my grandmother Betty. And it was past time.”
Betty, the namesake of the bar, Photo provided by Matt Colagiuri
A singalong piano bar
The idea of Downstairs at Betty’s was simple. The bar would open from 6:00 PM to 12:00 AM every night. One pianist would play from 7:00 PM to 9:30 PM and a second from 9:30 PM to 11:00 PM. Matt would often greet customers at the bar and staff members Daniel, Jessica, and later Lucas would serve drinks and sometimes sing along with the customers.
Once the music started, customers could request any song they liked as long as the pianist could play it. Betty’s from the beginning was about singing together, not watching the pianist perform. This was the key difference from a typical piano bar and what gave Downstairs at Betty’s a particular kind of magic.
Downstairs at Betty’s around the piano, Photo provided by Matt Colagiuri
I first discovered Betty’s through an Instagram post from fellow Lisbon expats Dan and Michelle @honeymoonalways, and I immediately recognized it as a place that I would love. It wasn’t like the perfect private karaoke boxes I had grown used to when I lived in Japan, with their endless ice cream buffets and drinks ordered by phone. But perhaps it would be something even better – the chance to meet strangers and instantly connect through the shared love of music.
On April 21, 2023, I finally made it Betty’s. I walked in alone and within 10 minutes was singing Alicia Keys with Jessica the bartender and chatting to an elderly British couple like I’d known them for half of my life. Getting to meet the other bartender Daniel and the owner Matt was the cherry balanced on top of the cherry that night. They immediately felt like musical family.
Where strangers became fast friends
Over the next seven months, whenever I was in the neighborhood and in the mood for a song, or had friends in town, I would go to Betty’s. I didn’t know anywhere else like it—at least outside of the USA—a place where music became a tool for instant connection.
This wasn’t like karaoke—where you patiently wait your turn and perform solo or with a group and, if you’re lucky, get some applause at the end. This was, on the best of days, and any weekend night really, a chance to get close to the stranger beside you and chat in the language of music, a reunion with other music nerds, and a chance to get all of your energy out for the price of a couple of drinks.
At Betty’s, you didn’t just hear the music, you could feel it, rumbling right beneath you as the pianist took their next request. You could see it—in the face of someone across the room waiting for the first note. After months of going there, I started to recognize the regulars, mixed in with the streams of tourists who often discovered Betty’s as they passed by. Betty’s had become one of my locals just as private karaoke had in Japan.
Singing by the piano at Downstairs at Betty’s, November 2023, Photo by Becky Gillespie
One of the things that united the customers in song was the lack of a screen with scrolling lyrics that you find at a typical karaoke joint. Someone had to know the song, find the lyrics on their phone, and then share the lyrics with others around the piano. This necessitated getting close to others and relying on them if you wanted to add your musical contribution. Throughout my many visits there, I would watch, transfixed, as the most different-looking people would find common ground in music encouraged by the engaging pianists.
Downstairs at Betty’s plays its final song (for now)
Two days after Thanksgiving, and two weeks after they celebrated their first anniversary, Betty’s opened its doors for their final night. A series of unfortunate events over the previous several months including but not limited to plumbing, maintenance, and endless noise complaints would be all too much for Betty’s to remain open.
It is difficult, these days, to find places where you can truly be as loud as you want to be in big cities. Wild, unhinged expression is supposed to take place, apparently, far away, behind closed doors, and with the proper permits. Betty’s, for those precious months of 2023, became a place where you could be as loud as you wanted to be with strangers who felt exactly the same way and staff who did their best to make you feel like part of the Betty’s family.
Downstairs at Betty’s staff. From left to right: the owner Matt, Lucas, Daniel, and Jessica
Many of the people I brought to Betty’s told me that it was their favorite thing that they did when they visited the city. While I’m sad that Betty’s is no longer right down the street, I am happy to know that it has just moved on to another place and will open again in the city of Edinburgh, Scotland, hopefully in 2024.
Do you want to learn more about Portugal before visiting it? Or maybe you just want to feel the Portuguese vibe while doing something you enjoy the most – reading a book? Perhaps you’re here just because you’ve once visited the country and want to travel back there, if only through an author’s words?
Either way, we’ve looked through the online bibliophile communities, found the books people liked most, and compiled a list of titles to read about Portugal. If you’re worried you won’t find something you’ll like, you can put the worrying aside, as we’ve chosen quite different genres – non-fiction, historical fiction, classics, thriller, and even one with a bit of magical realism!
Are you ready to find your next great read? Choose one (or more!) from this list, and tell us which one it was. We want to share this journey with you!
1. Night Train to Lisbon
Author: Pascal Mercier
Pages: 496
Raimund Gregorious, a Latin teacher at a Swiss college in Bern, sets on a life-changing journey after having saved a mysterious Portuguese woman from a suicide attempt. Although this event didn’t seem life-changing at that particular moment, Raimund would soon consider it otherwise.
That same day, he finds a book written by Amadeu de Prado entitled Um ourives das palavras, translated as A Goldsmith of Words. It focuses on how different life could be if one were to travel back in time and make different choices.
This book prompts Raimund to think of his own life, and he concludes that he’s not living it to the fullest. So he leaves everything behind and takes the night train to Lisbon, where he starts investigating the Prado family. His leads take Rimaund all over Lisbon, so you’ll definitely get a grasp of the city’s essence through the author’s descriptions.
Ultimately, Night Train to Lisbon is a philosophical book of friendship and love, loyalty and loneliness, rebelliousness and self-contemplation. However, we must warn you – Mercier’s style can get quite complicated at times, as he often withholds information from the readers, leaving cues to be discovered.
If you’ve read Carlos Ruiz Zafón The Shadow of the Wind, you’ll probably like Night Train to Lisbon as well, as they’re quite similar in style and themes. Once you finish the book, you can also watch the movie adaptation released in 2013.
2. The Year of the Death of Ricardo Reis
Author: José Saramago
Pages: 358
One simply cannot discuss Portugal without at least mentioning José Saramago, one of the country’s most notorious writers. Well, if Saramago does pop up in a conversation, so must The Year of the Death of Ricardo Reis, a significant title for any bibliophile looking to learn more about Portugal and the author himself.
The most curious thing is that Ricardo Reis, the title character, is, in fact, one of the heteronyms of Fernando Pessoa, the other famous Portuguese writer.
After learning that Fernando Pessoa had died, Ricardo, a doctor, returns to Lisbon, where he decides to give up on his medical career. Instead, he spends time discovering the streets of Lisbon and reading the country’s newspapers.
Although the novel focuses on several themes, including immigration and romantic relationships, it focuses primarily on Reis’ conversations with the spirit of Fernando Pessoa, during which they ponder upon the difference between life and death.
In short, if you want to read a book that immerses you in the depths of Lisbon’s streets and, at the same time, catches your attention through its bizarre yet unique plot, don’t hesitate to give The Year of the Death of Ricardo Reis a chance.
3. The Night in Lisbon
Author: Erich Maria Remarque
Pages: 272
Erich Maria Remarque takes us back to 1942 Lisbon and introduces us to a refugee trying to leave the tumultuous Europe for America, except that he has neither a ticket nor the money to purchase one.
However, he sees the light at the end of the tunnel when a stranger approaches him and offers salvation. That’s how the young refugee met Josef Schwarz, another refugee who offered his tickets and visa in exchange for the opportunity to tell him a story.
As such, Josef starts recalling his relationship with Helen, his wife, and shares the most intimate details of their journey. Ultimately, his story becomes one about the loss of identity, love, survival, cruelty, and destiny.
Shortly after its publication, The Night in Lisbon became a bestseller in Britain and America. It was regarded as one of the most thoughtful novels of the time. Therefore, we recommend you to add it to your to-be-read list if you want to travel back in time, return to 1942 in Lisbon, and listen to Josef Schwarz’s compelling story.
4. Requiem: A Hallucination
Author: Antonio Tabucchi
Pages: 112
Antonio Tabucchi, although born in Italy, holds a great love for the country of Portugal, having been the director of the Italian Cultural Institute in Lisbon for a long time. No wonder he’s written so much about the country! Requiem: A Hallucination is an ode to Portugal, its people, and its culture.
It begins with the narrator waiting for someone on a quay by the Tagus River. However, we find out that he got the hour wrong – the appointment was at midnight, not noon. So he must wait another 12 hours, during which he takes the readers on a long, intricate, and insightful journey.
He meets so many different people that we start wondering whether everything is real or the narrator somehow slipped from reality into the realm of fantasy and dreams (which the title suggests, of course). At one time, he even meets the ghost of Fernando Pessoa, whom he calls The Guest.
As such, Tabucchi doesn’t only focus on taking the readers on a trip of revealing the mysteries the narrator stumbles upon on the streets of Portugal but also invites us to ponder upon the delimitation between consciousness and unconsciousness, real and unreal.
5. Lisbon – What the Tourist Should See
Author: Fernando Pessoa
Pages: 84
Although published a hundred years ago, Pessoa’s writings about Lisbon are still incredibly authentic today. Pessoa wrote the guidebook directly in English, as he aimed to address it to English-speaking visitors. The manuscript was discovered only after his death and published posthumously.
As you may already know, Fernando Pessoa was born in Lisbon. Although he spent nine years of his childhood in South Africa, he then returned to Lisbon and rarely left the city. As such, his account of Lisbon’s landmarks is priceless to anyone who plans to visit the country. If you’re traveling alone, take this book with you. It will be an excellent companion!
6. Baltasar and Blimunda
Author: José Saramago
Pages: 346
Set in the early 18th century Lisbon, Baltasar and Blimunda invites the readers to unravel the intricacies of the relationship between Baltasar and Bilmuda.
This love story is built around the construction of the Convent of Mafra, which still stands as one of the country’s most famous landmarks, having even become a finalist in the Seven Wonders of Portugal.
The two main themes are wrapped in a realistic yet fantastical narrative filled with jokes and critical observations coming from the narrator.
If you’re up for this journey, remember that Saramago is a master of long, complex sentences, so prepare yourself for a rather complicated reading but nonetheless highly rewarding!
7. Pereira Maintains
Author: Antonio Tabucchi
Pages: 196
Written by Antonio Tabucchi, Pereira Maintains tells the story of Dr. Pereira, a newspaper editor living in Lisbon. His wife died a few years ago, and he spends most of his time in solitude, writing about art and literature and disconnecting himself from the European political tensions.
One day, he meets a young man (Francesco Monteiro Rossi) looking for a place to work and hires him as an assistant. He finds out that Francesco uses the money to recruit Portuguese to fight for the anti-fascist forces in Spain. The assistant writes political pieces that Pereira cannot publish due to the dictatorial regime of Antonio Salazar. Still, he sees in Francesco the son he never had and helps him out anyway until the Portuguese police knock on his door.
The novel is filled with a myriad of literature and political references, so if you’re a fan of this genre, we’re sure Antonio Tabucchi’s writing will amaze you on the spot. You’ll undoubtedly lose yourself in the atmosphere of the 1930s in Lisbon.
8. The Return
Author: Dulce Maria Cardoso
Pages: 272
The Return encourages readers to travel back to 1975 to Luanda, after the collapse of the Salazar dictatorship, envisioning thousands of people preparing to return to Portugal to break free of the chaos of the Angolan War.
The story revolves around Rui, a fifteen-year-old boy born in Luanda. After long deliberations, his family decides to return to Portugal, but unfortunately, not all manage to. Rui’s father is taken by the rebels right before leaving for the airport. The family is forced to board the airplane without him, and Rui remains devastated, not knowing what happened to his father.
When the family arrives in Lisbon, they’re housed in a five-star hotel, where they mourn everything they had to leave behind – their house, friends, and favorite everythings. As the story unfolds, we learn of both the physical and emotional difficulties returnees face, with a primary focus on Rui’s growth. We learn about his struggles of growing up in a country he only heard stories of, after having left behind everything he could call home.
In short, The Return focuses on a highly important piece of Portuguese history that anyone interested in the subject should learn about. The fact that it’s told from the perspective of a fifteen-year-old makes it even more truthful and authentic.
9. The Crime of Father Amaro
Author: Eça de Queirós
Pages: 471
Like Saramago and Pessoa, Eça de Queirós has left its mark on Portuguese literature, having produced some of the country’s most notorious novels.
The Crime of Father Amaro is a satire of clerical corruption wrapped in Eça de Queirós’s masterful critique that touches everything that leaves space for criticism.
Through the author’s skillful writing, we meet a young priest called Amaro, who was forced to set on a priesthood journey and take the vow of chastity. Behind the surface, Amaro is obsessed with women, so he falls in love with Amélia, who is, at this time, engaged.
Amaro, however, contributes to the breaking-off of the engagement, drives her fiance out of town, and begins a sexual relationship with the woman of his dreams. We’ll let you discover what happens next in this romantic drama/social commentary/satirical novel!
10. The Book of Disquiet
Author: Fernando Pessoa
Pages: 544
The Book of Disquiet seems rather like a stream of thoughts than a plotful novel. It’s a collection of aphoristic paragraphs belonging to Bernardo Soares, one of Pessoa’s heteronyms. It was never finished and even has blank spaces that should have been filled later, which only adds to its mysterious yet melancholic allure.
Although it’s not an easy read and doesn’t describe much of Lisbon because the paragraphs focus primarily on Soares’ inner world, The Book of Disquiet can become an excellent companion during your journey around Portugal. As you probably already know, Pessoa lived in Lisbon for much of his adult life, and the city is imbued with his art if you know where to look.
11. Two Nights in Lisbon
Author: Chris Pavone
Pages: 436
If a thriller novel is a genre you prefer instead of classics or travel guides, you should definitely give Two Nights in Lisbon a chance.
Pavone shares the story of Ariel Pryce. It takes place in Lisbon, as she and her husband traveled to Portugal for a work trip. Ariel wakes up alone in her hotel room and realizes her husband isn’t there.
Where has he gone and why hasn’t he left a note? She starts investigating, trying to find him, and contacts the police and the US Embassy. The CIA becomes involved along the way as well.
As we unravel the story, we learn about Ariel’s past, question everything we (and Ariel, too!) know about her husband, and wonder whether there’s anything Ariel should be afraid of.
In short, Two Nights in Lisbon has enough plot twists to keep you awake at night! Put it in your hand baggage and enjoy your flight to Lisbon – hours will feel like minutes with this book!
12. Journey to Portugal: In Pursuit of Portugal’s History and Culture
Author: José Saramago
Pages: 452
Published in 1981, this non-fiction book by Jose Saramago takes readers throughout Portugal – from north to south, from east to west.
When Saramago wrote this travelogue, Portugal wasn’t such a popular tourist destination, allowing the author to bring its beauty to life in a truly authentic way. He delves into the country’s ancient myths and people, describing fortresses on cliffs, churches, and other landmarks that bring value to the territory.
On the other hand, we must mention that Saramago focuses a lot on Portugal’s churches – unsurprisingly, though, since the country is filled with churches that are part of its identity. So, if you’re not interested in the subject, you may want to consider other titles we’ve added to the list.
In the heart of Portugal’s rich history lies a tale of love, tragedy, and undying devotion that has captivated hearts for centuries. This is the story of Pedro I, the future king of Portugal, and the handmaiden Inês de Castro, often hailed as the most tragic and beautiful love story in Portuguese history.
Dom Pedro I statue, RH&XL, Flickr
The Dawn of a Forbidden Love
The tale unfolds in the 14th century within the walls of the royal court. Prince Pedro, the heir to the Portuguese throne, was bound by duty to marry D. Constança Manuel, a young noblewoman from the royal family of Castela. This was a union orchestrated for political alliance. The arrival of Constança brought with her a retinue, among which was Inês de Castro, a lady-in-waiting of striking beauty from Galicia. Pedro, young and impassioned, was struck by Inês’s allure, and they soon found themselves entangled in a forbidden romance.
Despite the confines of his marriage, Pedro’s heart belonged irrevocably to Inês. Their secret love blossomed in the shadows of the court thriving through their stolen glances and clandestine meetings. Fate dealt the lovers a lucky card with the untimely death of Constança, who died giving birth to the future king D. Fernando I. Free from his marital bonds, Pedro openly declared his love for Inês and ignited the flames of scandal and opposition within the court and his entire kingdom.
Tragedy Strikes and a King’s Wrath
Tragically, the couple’s union was met with fierce resistance, particularly from Pedro’s father, King Afonso IV. The king, concerned about the potential political implications and the threat to the royal lineage, vehemently opposed their relationship. Despite this, Pedro and Inês continued their life together in Coimbra, welcoming four children into their fold.
The growing influence of Inês’s family and the birth of her children with Pedro intensified the court’s apprehension. Fears of a diluted royal lineage and potential Spanish influence over Portuguese affairs reached a fever pitch. The situation deteriorated rapidly when rumors began to circulate about Pedro and Inês plotting against the young heir, Fernando, further exacerbating the tension.
In a tragic turn of events, succumbing to the pressures of the court and his own fears, King Afonso IV ordered the assassination of Inês in 1355. Her death, carried out in the gardens of Quinta das Lágrimas in Coimbra, was a brutal and heart-wrenching event. Legend has it that Inês’s tears sprouted the Fonte das Lágrimas, where you can still see her blood stained on the rocks.
Quinta das Lágrimas, Pedro, Flickr
The aftermath of Inês’s death saw Pedro consumed by grief and fury. His pain turned to rage against his father and those responsible for his beloved’s death. Upon ascending to the throne, Pedro’s first act was one of retribution. He hunted down and executed Inês’s assassins, ripping out their hearts in the process, a manner befitting his newfound epithet, “Pedro the Cruel.”
Tomb of Dona Inês de Castro, the love of King Pedro I, Mosteiro de Alcobaça, royckmeyer, Flickr
A Love Immortalized
In a dramatic and unprecedented gesture, Pedro then posthumously declared Inês as the Queen of Portugal. In a ceremony that has been etched into the annals of history, he is said to have exhumed her body, placing her on the throne and forcing the court to pay homage to her lifeless body by kissing her hand. This act not only solidified his undying love for Inês but also served as a stark message to his detractors.
In a final tribute to their eternal love, Pedro commissioned the construction of two elaborate tombs at the Monastery of Alcobaça. These tombs, masterpieces of Gothic art, were placed facing each other, symbolizing the couple’s enduring love and the hope that they would be reunited in the afterlife. It is said that on the day of the Last Judgment, Pedro and Inês would rise and see each other at first sight.
The story of Pedro and Inês transcends the boundaries of time and space. It has inspired countless works of art, literature, and music, becoming a symbol of eternal love and loyalty. Visitors to Portugal can still trace the footsteps of this legendary couple. The gardens of Quinta das Lágrimas in Coimbra, where their love blossomed and Inês met her tragic fate, and the magnificent tombs at Alcobaça Monastery in Central Portugal still remain as testaments to their love story. It is a timeless narrative that continues to inspire and move hearts across the world, a poignant reminder of the power of love and its enduring mark on history.
Today, you can also visit the “Pedro and Inês” pedestrian bridge in Coimbra. Its two opposite walkways curve away from each other and are only joined by a central island. The walkways never meet—just like the ultimate destinies of Pedro and Inês.
The “Pedro and Inês” pedestrian bridge in Coimbra, Giovanni Prestige, Flickr
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