A Portuguese Immigration and Border Service (SEF) inspector is under investigation by the Judiciary Police and the Investigation and Penal Action Department (DIAP) of Lisbon for the suspected rape of a foreign woman at Lisbon airport.
The alleged rape occurred at the same time that the Ukrainian Ihor Homeniuk was murdered by three other SEF inspectors in the Spring of 2020.
The victim, a 35-year-old woman, has identified the inspector and told the police what happened. She landed in Lisbon and was suspected of wanting to stay in the Schengen area illegally rather than coming for tourism.
According to her account, she was transported in a vehicle alone with a SEF inspector to the Temporary Stay Center, where she was placed in a closed room without cameras. She was allegedly raped in this room by the accused SEF inspector in the same location where Ihor Homeniuk was murdered.
She was ashamed to speak up about the incident and was repatriated days later. In her home country, she told her boyfriend what happened. They later came back to Lisbon to report the rape and were collaborative throughout the investigation.
CNN Portugal contacted the official source at SEF. They have not said whether the SEF inspector has been suspended. However, SEF did say that the case was a sexual harassment claim rather than rape.
Nevertheless, CNN says that it knows for a fact that the investigation underway is dealing with an alleged rape, as harassment is not even a crime in the Penal Code.
As the oldest country in Europe, Portugal has a culturally rich history, delicious cuisines, and some of the best wines in the world. Millions of tourists travel to Portugal throughout the year, many choosing to drive their way around the country to experience its beauty to the max.
This 10-day Portugal itinerary begins in the city of Porto, including close-by day trips, and then moves south toward Coimbra, ending in the capital of Lisbon.
If you want to visit as much as possible of Portugal within a 10-day time frame, we recommend renting a car. You will get some of the best views and get to stop at places where public transport is pretty much nonexistent.
When renting your vehicle, you can select to pick up the car at Porto airport and return it at the end of your trip at Lisbon airport, where this itinerary ends.
For everything you need to know before traveling to Portugal, check out our Portugal Survival Guide.
Day 1: Arrive in Porto
Porto lies along the Douro river and features one of the oldest historical centers in Europe, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996. Although your arrival day should be more relaxing, we recommend exploring the historical center first thing.
Do not miss the Livraria Lello, one of the oldest bookstores in the country, founded in 1906. It was once rumored that this bookstore was where JK Rowling wrote the Harry Potter books, but she went on to deny this. Still, the atmosphere inside the bookstore is like no other.
Right close by is Clérigos Tower. Built in 1763 by Italian architect Nicolau Nasoni, the Clérigos Tower offers a panoramic view of the historical center of Porto. At 75 meters high, visitors can climb 225 steps to the top of the tower which is worth the workout.
NH Hotel Porto Jardim: This four-star hotel feels like its five stars. It has a 70 cm deep outdoor people, a spa a few meters away, and a gym. It is located within walking distance of main attractions like Bolhão market, Aliados Avenue, and Ribeira. If you have a dog or cat, this hotel is pet-friendly.
Vila Gale Porto: Vila Gale is a well-known chain of hotels in Portugal and is always a safe option. This one was built in 1999 and recently renovated. The hotel has a spa with an indoor pool, a gym, a restaurant, and two bars.
Hotel Premium Porto Downtown: Located in the old town, this modern 4-star hotel has a sun terrace with views of the city of Porto, the perfect place to enjoy some port wine. You’ll be close to everything you need, Santa Catarina street, Aliados Avenue, and the cathedral.
Your second day in Porto will be busier. You have seen Clerigos and Lello, but now that you have a full day, make sure to visit other iconic attractions.
Bolsa Palace, for example, is a great activity for the morning. Palacio da Bolsa’s construction began in 1842 by the Porto Commercial Association on the ruins of the Saint Francis Convent. The name Palácio da Bolsa translates into “Stock Exchange Palace”.
This palace was built in neoclassical style and displays furniture by Portuguese architect José Marques da Silva and sculptures by the famous sculptor Teixeira Lopes.
Then head to Porto Cathedral, known as Sé do Porto. This Roman Catholic cathedral is a national monument and the most important religious building in all of Porto. The Porto Cathedral still holds a mass every day at 11 am that you can attend for free.
A 15-minute walk away, you will find Carmo Church. This monument is therefore one of the oldest in the old town of Porto. The church is built in baroque style, the same as the Clérigos Tower. A part of the church is decorated with Portuguese blue azulejos (tiles) made locally in Vila Nova de Gaia, across the Douro river from Porto.
Stop for lunch at Taberna dos Mercadores, for some beautiful Portuguese food at an affordable price. We recommend the seafood rice.
After lunch, why not take a tuk tour to see more of the city? Here are our three tuk tuk tours in Porto:
After dinner, head to a Fado house to listen to the iconic style of Portuguese music. Most fado houses offer you a Port wine glass to enjoy with the live show. Book this Fado Live Show in Porto for an intimate setting in Casa da Guitarra near Sé.
Start the day with breakfast at Confeitaria Cristal in Cedofeita, a pastry shop. We recommend the courgette and ginger cookies, as well as the classic pastel de nata with an espresso.
After breakfast, head to Estiva Quay to board a top-rated full-day river cruise to discover the Regua and Douro, a famous Port wine region. The cruise includes a large breakfast, as well as lunch while you admire the Douro valley and goes through the 14-meter Crestuma-Lever Dam and the Carrapatelo Dam.
Audio guides are also included in four different languages. The cruise stops at Regua where you can enjoy the town with friends. The route back is done by train.
For dinner, head to Vila Nova de Gaia for dinner at the 5-star hotel, the Yeatman. 15 minutes away from Porto, across the Dom Luis Bridge. You get a full view of Porto across the Douro river and get to try some of the best food in the country as the Yeatman has 2-Michelin stars.
Before heading back to Porto, explore the city center of Vila Nova de Gaia. Enjoy one last night in Porto, before driving south towards Lisbon, with a stop in the beautiful city of Coimbra.
Around a 1-hour drive from Porto, Coimbra is your next stop. We recommend leaving early in the morning so you can enjoy your day in the city.
Your first stop should be the University of Coimbra, one of the oldest universities in the world. To get to the university, start from the Almedina Tower, the entrance gate forming part of the wall surrounding the old city situated in the lower section of the city. Here, you can explore the alleys that date back to the 8th century.
Visit the Joanine Library, a Baroque library situated in the center of the University of Coimbra, by the university tower. The library was built in the 18th century, and it is considered a national monument with priceless historical value. For a full experience, book a tour of the university.
For lunch, head to Italia in the Docks of Coimbra, a restaurant serving high-quality Italian food, or Cordel Maneirista, a Portuguese restaurant near the S. Francisco Convent. We recommend the alheira and the Santa Clara dessert.
After lunch, take a walk in the Botanical garden, one of the oldest in Portugal. With 13 hectares of beauty, the garden was established in 1772 by the Marquis de Pombal with the purpose of supplementing the study of medicine and natural history at the University of Coimbra.
Next, visit the Santa Cruz Monastery and the Convent of Santa Clara, built in 1314. If you still have time, head to Quinta das Lagrimas. This estate has been the setting for the forbidden romance between King D. Pedro I and Inês de Castro. The gardens have a canal, “Fonte dos Amores” that, according to the legend, transported love letters between the Estate and the Royal Palace.
Enjoy your night in Coimbra with dinner at Arcadas Restaurante, a fine-dining restaurant with an extraordinary collection of wines and cuisine made of traditional ingredients.
Best Hotels in Coimbra
Hotel Quinta das Lagrimas: A 5-star hotel, Hotel Quinta das Lagrimas is located in a historic medieval palace that was recently renovated. Featuring botanical gardens and a luxurious spa with views of the city, as well as a 9-hole golf course, this hotel has all the facilities you need and more.
Solar Antigo Luxury Coimbra: Located in the heart of Coimbra, only 400 meters from the University of Coimbra, Solar Antigo Luxury Coimbra is a 4-star boutique hotel that features views of the city. A historical building, its traditional architecture has been kept intact, while including all the modern amenities necessary for a comfortable stay.
Lisbon is a 1-hour drive from Coimbra. The capital of Portugal, Lisbon gets over 4 million tourists a year for a reason. One of the oldest cities in Western Europe, Lisbon is a cosmopolitan city filled with historical heritage, culture, and architecture that will leave a mark to remember.
You might only arrive in Lisbon at lunchtime, depending on what time you leave Coimbra. For lunch, take a look at our favorite restaurants in Lisbon.
If you are vegan or just enjoy plant-based food and want to try some Portuguese food, we definitely recommend Ao 26 Vegan Food Project. Located close to Chiado, Ao 26 serves a plant-based version of traditional Portuguese food. Every single dish at this place tastes like the real thing – or even better.
Another great option for lunch for the meat-lovers is Alfaia, one of the oldest restaurants in Lisbon that opened in 1880.
After lunch, head to Sao Jorge Castle. The 5th-century palace was restored in 1938 by the dictatorship of Salazar to look the way it is presented now.
Tourists can visit the castle complex, which consists of the castle itself, the ruins of the royal palace, gardens, and a terraced square with panoramic views of the city. A ticket to visit costs between €5 and €10. You can also pay a little extra to skip the line.
A 5-minute walk away, head to Alfama, the oldest neighborhood in Lisbon and the home of fado. Explore the neighborhood and look out for Fado spots, as well as historical monuments such as the Lisbon Cathedral, the Convent of the Grace, and more.
After dinner, walk to Bairro Alto, the most popular area for drinking outdoors. Tons of locals and tourists line the streets of Bairro Alto with a beer in hand. We recommend Ze dos Bois Gallery, a musical center that has live music and serves tasty drinks.
Selena Secret Garden: This hostel also has a rooftop deck, CoWork space for professionals, and a movie room. In the heart of Cais do Sodre, you are close to contemporary art galleries, bars with riverfront views, and within walking distance to Chiado.
Turim Av Liberdade Hotel: Located in central Lisbon, this 4-star hotel has over 150 rooms of different sizes and will soon also have a spa. It also has a reading room, a multimedia room, and a famous pizzeria and steakhouse.
Hotel Lisboa Plaza: Looking for the Portuguese experience? This 4-star family-owned hotel is decorated in the style of Portuguese homes. With 24-hour room service, a terrace, and a gym, this small hotel has been in the same family since the 1950s. The hotel has won many travel awards, including the Experts’ Choice Awards in 2021.
Spend your second day in Lisbon exploring Belem. Belem lies along the Tejo Estuary and is home to two UNESCO sites, Torre de Belem and Mosteiro dos Jeronimos.
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos is a former monastery in Belém constructed in Portuguese Late Gothic Manueline style, and you can visit the church for free. A 2-minute walk from the monastery, head to Pasteis de Belem where the traditional Portuguese custard tart was first invented.
Belem has some great lunch spots. Portugalia Cervejaria is a classic franchise restaurant in Portugal that has tasty steak with a variety of sauces.
After lunch, head to Berardo Collection Museum, located in the Belem Cultural Center. Ever since it opened in 2007, it has been one of the most impressive museums in Portugal. There are around 1000 pieces in the collection, starting in the 20th century.
The collection focuses mostly on European and American art. You will get to see pieces from Andy Warhol, Picasso, Paula Rego, and more across two floors.
Before dinner, head to one of Lisbon's miradouros to see the sunset. . Miradouros are city lookout points where you get beautiful panoramic views of Lisbon. You’ll always find people listening to music and drinking beer on the hundreds of miradouros in the city.
Grab a bottle of wine and some cheese to enjoy the sunset. You’ll also find some small kiosks that sell drinks and coffee next to miradouros. Wondering which miradouros have the best views and environment? Our favorite lookout spots are Miradouro de Santa Luzia in Alfama, Miradouro da Graça, and Miradouro de Santa Catarina.
If you are in Alfama, we recommend grabbing dinner here while watching a fado show. This experience allows you to explore Alfama on a guided walking tour, as well as the quaint neighborhood of Mouraria. You will get to discover all about the Fado genre, as well as listen to the melodies of Fado at a traditional Fado house. Finish with a Portuguese dinner while you listen to live fado.
Lisbon is a pretty large city, at least to Portuguese standards. Since you only have 14 days to enjoy as much of Portugal as possible, we recommend a guided tour of Lisbon so you get to see as much as you can of the capital. For your second day in Lisbon, here are the best guided tours to explore the city:
Lisbon 3-Hour Sightseeing Tour by Tuk Tuk: This tuk-tuk tour rides up and down the hills of Lisbon, going through the city's oldest neighborhoods and main attractions.
Lisbon Hop-On Hop-Off Bus Tour: Book a 24-hour ticket with an audio guide. This affordable ticket allows you to visit different routes and hop in as you would like.
Lisbon 3-Hour Tour by E-Bike: This tour allows you to cycle through Lisbon on comfortable e-bikes with a guided tour. You will get to visit different viewpoints and historical attractions.
After your tour, we recommend heading to CasaNova in Santa Apolonia for some pizzas cooked on a wood-burning stove. You can then walk to Terreiro do Paco, the harbor-facing plaza and one of the largest in Portugal. If you are there at sunset time, sit near the river with a beer and enjoy the view!
Day 8: Day Trip to Sintra & Cascais from Lisbon
What makes Lisbon one of the best cities in Portugal is that you are very close to stunning hidden gems that are perfect for a day trip. It would be a waste not to take advantage of its location. Therefore, you should take a full day to visit Sintra and Cascais.
We recommend driving to these locations (around 30 minutes from Lisbon) or booking a guided tour.
In the morning, head to Sintra for breakfast. Grab a “travesseiro”, a Sintra staple at Piriquita, in the city's heart. Then walk toward Castle of the Moors, a medieval castle that sits on a hilltop and was built by the Moors in the 8th century.
Palacio da Pena is another must-see. The exterior of this palace is painted in multiple colors and is in a romanticist style. You can also wander around the castle and see the beautiful green area that surrounds it. You’ll feel like you’re in a fairytale. Tickets cost around €15.
For lunch, drive towards Cascais and stop at a restaurant called Furnas do Guincho. This is one of the best seafood restaurants in the area, but it is quite pricey. For a more affordable alternative, drive to the center of Cascais and eat at Baia do Peixe.
After lunch, discover the town of Cascais, located on the Portuguese Riviera. One of the richest municipalities in the country, it is home to the best hotels and beaches. Head to “Praia da Rainha,” a secluded beach with a wonderful view, perfect for a family photograph.
Then, walk for a minute toward “Frederico Arouca” street. This is essentially the high street with the major stores, as well as smaller vendors selling Portuguese souvenirs.
From there, walk toward the City Hall of Cascais in “Praça 5 de Outubro”. This beautiful building with traditional Portuguese architecture stands in the middle of the commerce square, featuring authentic cobblestone streets.
If you’re still energized, and the weather is good, exploring Guincho beach is next. A 10-minute ride from the center of Cascais, Guincho is the of the best beaches in Portugal. It is perfect for swimming and tanning in the summer and also beautiful to walk through in the colder months.
If you prefer a guided tour, this tour of Sintra and Cascais takes you to all the best spots. It also includes a guided ticket to the Pena Palace, allowing you to skip the long lines. You can also pick between a shared or private tour. The tour includes free time and transportation.
Just over 30 minutes from Lisbon, Setubal is a city in the Arrabida Mountains with natural landscapes that blend beautiful beaches and mountains. You can enjoy hikes in the natural park’s astonishing nature and spot some dolphins at the beach.
Head here from Lisbon for a beach day. One of our favorite beaches is Portinho beach, located in the Serra da Arrabida Natural Park in Setubal. Portinho Beach is a clear watered beach with white sands and deep green hills. This beach features a bay that is suitable for diving and discovering marine life, while fishing is prohibited.
The beach features umbrellas to rent, as well as watercrafts and games. A 17th-century fort guards the beach, which now hosts the Oceanographic Museum. You can also enjoy a Portuguese meal at the seafront restaurant called Beira Mar, which serves quality seafood.
Fly back home from Lisbon Airport. You can return the car you rented in Porto at Lisbon airport. Just make sure you selected this option when booking the car rental.
Bullying in schools in Portugal increased by 37% in 2021/22, with the police registering 2,847 criminal incidents of injury and threats throughout the school year. This Portuguese police data reveals the highest value in the last nine school years.
Of these 2,847 incidents, 1,169 were physical violence, and 752 were threats.
In comparison to 2020/2021, during the Covid-19 pandemic, there were 783 more cases reported to PSP, including 418 more physical incidents and 208 more threat incidents in 2021/2022.
Since October 10, PSP has been hosting the operation “Bullying is for the weak,” directed at students from the ages of 6 to 18 years old. The operation ends this Friday.
PSP said that the last school year, the police had heavily invested in education surrounding bullying, with 6,250 education events to teach children about bullying and cyberbullying, reaching over 100,000 students.
These actions will “contribute along with other conditions to contradict this turnaround in the decreasing (bullying) tendency that was consistent since the school year 2013/2014,” said PSP.
The police data found that most victims were boys between the ages of 12 and 15 years old.
Particularly since the 2008 recession, Portugal has been dealing with the issue of unemployment. However, despite most thinking otherwise, Portugal has been able to tackle large degrees of unemployment, with a major dip in 2014, after reaching over 17%. As of August 2022, the unemployment rate stands at around 6.6% in Portugal, below the EU average.
However, the same cannot be said about youth unemployment. Although significant progress has been made, in Portugal, youth unemployment stands at 16.7% in August 2022. This is above the EU average of 13%.
Still, Portugal has a social security system that offers unemployment allowances.
In June of 2022, the unemployment rate stood at 6.1% in Portugal. This is below the average Eurozone rate for this period of 6.6%. However, the unemployment rate in Portugal decreased to 5.7% in July of 2022.
Back in august 2020, the unemployment rate took a hit due to the Covid-19 pandemic, rising to 8%. It improved throughout 2021 to around 6% to 7% and then fell below 6% in early 2022.
Unemployment rates in Portugal have been decreasing since 2013, although it rose again during the Covid-19 pandemic.
Youth Unemployment in Portugal
Portugal is way above the EU average for youth unemployment, unfortunately. Youth unemployment stands at 13% in the EU. However, in Portugal, youth unemployment stands at 16.7% in August 2022.
It has, however, reduced in the last year. In September 2021, Portugal’s youth unemployment rate was 23.7%. Back in 2015, youth unemployment in Portugal was 35%, so progress has been made.
Does Portugal have a high unemployment rate?
Portugal’s unemployment rate is not higher than the EU average. Countries such as Spain (14.7%), Greece (14.8%), and Italy (9.8%) have higher unemployment rates. However, Portugal has a really high youth unemployment rate at 16.7% in August 2022. This is much higher than the EU average of 6%.
Unemployment Benefits in Portugal
The Portuguese Social Security system secures citizens’ basic rights and ensures equality in opportunities, providing support measures such as unemployment allowances, paternal leave, and other financial support. The Social Security system is valid for Portuguese and foreign citizens who make contributions.
Portugal’s Social Security system has multiple types of unemployment benefits. Unemployment benefits usually pay 65% of your earnings. However, the minimum monthly rate is €439, and the maximum is €1,097.
Residents can access the main unemployment benefit if they have lost their job or come to the end of a contract. However, you must be registered as a job-seeker and have worked for at least 360 days in the 24 months before you lost your job.
Another type of unemployment benefit is the social unemployment benefit. You might qualify after either your regular unemployment benefit has run out or you do not meet the conditions for unemployment benefit. You need to have worked for 180 days in the one year before becoming unemployed.
In Portugal, you also have a partial unemployment benefit. To access this, you need to have already received unemployment benefits and begin working in a part-time or self-employed job. The earnings from this job must be lower than the amount of the unemployment benefit.
Data gathered by Pordata for the International Day of Poverty reveal that the Portuguese population is getting poorer, reports Diario de Noticias. The number of people at risk of poverty or social exclusion in Portugal increased by 12.5% in 2020 compared to 2019, the first increase since 2014.
In the European Union, Portugal is the second country with the most people living in poor material conditions. The findings also reveal that while the poorer are getting poorer, the richer are getting richer in Portugal.
Luis Loura, director of Pordata has said that Portugal is now further away from reaching its goal by 2030 of less than 765,000 people living in poverty.
“Portugal deviated from its poverty reduction trajectory that it was on since 2014. In 2020 there was an aggravation. Without social support, 4.4 million people are in poverty or have anincome below the poverty line (554 euros monthly),” said Luis Loura.
In the case of the risk of poverty and social exclusion in comparison to 2017, it has now increased from 43.5% at the time to now 43.7%. Poverty hits 18.4% of the Portuguese population after social support.
In comparison to countries in the European Union, Portugal’s position has worsened. There are three key indicators of regression, “the population percentage at risk of poverty and social exclusion, the poverty risk rate, and inequality in income distribution.”
Portugal remains in 8th place in regard to these findings, only improving to 10th place after social support from the government. This includes parental leave, unemployment allowances, and more.
In recent years, many have become digital nomads, living in a nomadic way while working remotely online. In the United States alone, 10.9 million Americans described themselves as digital nomads.
Lisbon, Portugal, is one of Europe’s largest digital nomad hotspots. The Portuguese capital is a favorite all year long, especially for those looking to escape cold winters.
While Lisbon is more expensive than other Portuguese cities, it still offers a relatively affordable cost of living compared to cities such as London and Amsterdam.
Along with delicious food, plenty of coworking spaces, and fun activities, it is no surprise Lisbon is a digital nomad favorite. Our Digital Nomad Guide to Lisbon, Portugal has everything you need to know!
If you are not an EU national, the Portugal D7 Visa is the most suitable visa for digital nomads. It requires no investment!
This visa is for non-EU/EEA/Swiss citizens who want residence in Portugal and have a reasonable passive income. This income can come from real estate, a retirement pension, a salary, etc.
The minimum passive income required is €8,460 per year for the main applicant. For a spouse, you must add 50% to this (€4,230), and for a dependent child, you must add 30% to this (€2,538).
However, you might not need a visa at all, depending on the timeframe and your nationality. If you are a UK citizen, you can travel and stay in the United Kingdom up to 90 days out of any six-month period. US and Canadian citizens can also stay in Portugal for up to 90 days without a visa.
Applications for the new Portugal Digital Nomad Viusa start on October 30, three months after the Portuguese government amended immigration law.
Remote workers can apply for a one-year temporary stay visa or a residency permit that can be renewed for up to five years. Applicants need to make at least €2,800 per month a month, four times the minimum wage in Portugal.
Only those from outside the EU and EEA can apply. You must also be employed by a company outside of Portugal or self-employed. These will naturally be checked officially through tax residency documents, proof of employment, and proof of income for the last three months.
You can apply for this digital nomad visa at a Portuguese Consulate in your home country or at the Portuguese Immigration and Border Service, also known as SEF.
As a digital nomad in Lisbon, you need at least €1,000 a month. This value will, however, depend heavily on your lifestyle. Let’s take a look at a breakdown of the costs.
Assuming you’re looking to rent a coworking space, this will run you at least €100 a month, and transportation passes cost around €50 a month.
Accommodation will also vary, but for a shared room in a hostel, prices start at €15 a night, amounting to €450 a month. If you are looking for a private room in a hostel, this will cost you around €1,200 a month, and a private Airbnb is at least €1,500 a month.
If you have a kitchen available, you can opt to cook your food, and groceries are around €200 a month. If you want to eat out 3x a day, budget at least €1,000 a month.
To explore the city’s museums, clubs, bars, and more, you will need at least €200 a month.
Therefore, the cost of living in Lisbon for a digital nomad can be anywhere from €1,000 to upwards of €3,000 if you want to splurge.
Where to stay as a digital nomad in Lisbon will depend heavily on your budget, timeframe, and lifestyle. Are you looking for privacy? Are you staying more long-term or just a few weeks? Let’s take a look at your options.
Digital Nomad Hostels Lisbon
A hostel is often a top contender for digital nomads looking to socialize while living comfortably. You have all the amenities you need, such as a shared kitchen and often a coworking space. If you are on a strict budget, you can book a bed in a shared dormitory that will usually cost you around €15 a night.
Alternatively, if privacy is key, you can book a private room in a hostel starting at €40 a night. You will often need to share a bathroom, but not always.
Here are some of our favorite hostels in Lisbon for digital nomads:
Yes! Lisbon Hotel: Located in the heart of the city in Chiado, this youth hostel won the best “Hostel in the World” in 2019. You are very close to the best places in the city, like Alfama and Bairro Alto. The hostel offers everything you need from a lounge room for socializing, 24-hour reception and security services, laundry facilities, and even a PlayStation and book exchange service.
Urban Garden Hostel: Lisbon’s first eco-hostel, Urban Garden wants to minimize its environmental footprint through “green initiatives”. The hostel has an extensive recycling program, dual flush toilets, only use recycled paper products, and more.
Selena Secret Garden: The hostel also has a rooftop deck, pool, Coworking space for professionals, and a movie room. They also have weekly programs with activities such as yoga, meditation, and Portuguese lessons.
Medium-Term Apartment Rentals
If you are looking to stay between 1 to 6 months in Lisbon, there are plenty of apartment options for medium-term rentals that are reasonably priced. Airbnb is mostly used for shorter-term rentals, although they have beautiful apartments offered in Lisbon. Still, some hosts offer discounted prices if you stay for over a month.
However, other platforms focus more on medium-term apartment rentals. For example, Housing Anywhere and Flatio offer longer stays between 1 to 6 months. These. tend to offer better pricing.
Renting an Apartment – 6 months +
Renting an apartment with a landlord is also possible if you stay for at least six months. Usually, landlords won’t rent you an apartment for less than six months, but this will depend on how much you are willing to pay. Even finding an apartment for six months can be difficult, but it is possible.
Keep in mind that Lisbon is the most expensive place to rent a house in Portugal. In June 2022, the price of renting in Lisbon is €14.50 per m2.An 80 m2 apartment could cost around €1,160 in the Lisbon district. However, this will be cheaper than renting a short-term apartment.
Most landlords require expats and digital nomads to have a Portuguese guarantor, known as a fiador. If you cannot find one, you will be asked to pay rent upfront, usually 6 to 12 months.
Coworking in Lisbon: 3 Best Coworking Spaces in Lisbon
If you’re not staying at a hostel with a coworking space or do not have a comfortable office at your apartment, there are plenty of other places to work in Lisbon. In the last five years, several coworking spaces have been opening, costing anywhere between €100 and €250 a month. Here are our three favorite coworking spaces in Lisbon:
1. Second Home
Located in Mercado da Ribeira, Second Home is a large coworking space with green plants and high ceilings. This place believes that being in a green space surrounded by nature nurtures people’s well-being. Second Home’s amenities include fiber-optic broadband, unlimited printings, full-time reception, mailing, and registered address, as well as free coffee.
This place is very diverse, with half of its community being Portuguese and the other half from 23 different countries. You can also purchase extras such as access to showers, 5 days a month access to Second Homes in London and LA, daily cleaning, and more.
A hot desk here costs €235 + VAT, including access to all services. For a private office full of plants and natural light, this costs €365 + VAT.
2. Impact Hub
Located in Alcantra, Impact Hub offers an inspiring coworking space in the heart of Lisbon. This space offers multiple meeting rooms, call booths, and more. This place is more than just a coworking space, offering a place to connect with innovators and organize community activities.
They offer a variety of memberships:
Digital: This virtual membership gives you access to local and global communities plus business benefits such as registering your company in their location for €35 + VAT.
Connect: A flexible seat in a shared desk once a week for €50 + VAT a month.
Flexible: A flexible seat twice a week in a shared desk for €100 + VAT a month.
Fixed: A dedicated seat in a fixed desk where you can keep your equipment and your own economic chair for €200 + VAT.
3. Village Underground Lisboa
Village Underground is located near Lx Factory with 14 refurbished metal shipping containers for a trendy feel. More than a coworking space, you can rent these for a lab, store, office, and more. This place gives you access to some of the best Lisbon networking, workshops, exhibitions, and regular parties.
Unlike other spaces, you have 24/7 access to work flexibility, as well as air conditioning and supersonic fast internet. Prices start at €18 per day, €150 per month for a shared container, or €600 per month for a private container.
What to Do in Lisbon: 5 Things to Do in Lisbon for Digital Nomads
Lisbon has a variety of activities for digital nomads to enjoy, from monuments to wine tastings at a range of prices to accommodate all visitors. Here are our five top things to do in Lisbon:
1. Relax on wonderful beaches near Lisbon
It is rare to find a cosmopolitan city that is so close to the beach. Lisbon is only 15 minutes away from the sea, and you can get there by public transportation. And you won’t be going to just any beaches, Lisbon has some of the best European beaches, perfect for a city break.
Costa da Caparica is only 20 minutes away, an area with some of the best beaches in Greater Lisbon. Another alternative is going to Cascais or Sintra, where there are fewer busy beaches with loads of space.
2. Taste delicious Portuguese cuisine in Lisbon restaurants
Lisbon’s food scene is renowned all over Europe. If you visit the capital, you must explore traditional restaurants called tascas (taverns). These provide a relaxing environment where you can try out some cheap traditional Portuguese food for anywhere between €10 and €15. Our favorite tascas are Zé dos Cornos, 1 de Maio, and Alfaia.
We recommend ordering the following:
Sardinhas (sardines)
Frango de churrasco piri-piri (piri-piri chicken)
Bacalhau (codfish)
Polvo à la lagareiro (octopus)
Bitoque (thin steak)
Secretos de porco preto (Iberico pig)
Caldo verde (green soup)
Cozido à portuguesa (meat stew)
Pastel de nata (custard tart)
Baba de camelo (camel drool or condensed milk mousse)
One of the best things about Lisbon is its proximity to nearby cities and towns that are perfect for a day trip. Our favorites are Sintra and Cascais.
Sintra is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, only a 30-minute drive from Lisbon or a 45-minute train from Oriente station (around €2). Sintra is a hidden gem in Portugal, filled with greenery and palaces that once belonged to royalty.
One of the most iconic palaces in Portugal, Pena Palance is located in Sintra. The palace is designed in a romanticist style, painted in multiple colors to make you feel like you are witnessing a fairytale. Purchase your entrance ticket here to skip the line, with a free cancellation option.
Cascais is located on the Portuguese Riviera, around a 40-minute train ride from Lisbon. It is one of the richest municipalities in Portugal, known for its luxurious restaurants, hotels, and inviting beaches.
We recommend taking the train to enjoy a view of the ocean as you travel toward Cascais. Stop in the station Estoril before Cascais to visit the largest casino in Europe. When you arrive in Cascais, we recommend exploring the City Hall, the bay, and the Citadel of Cascais.
They say the best things in life are free, and Lisbon’s miradouros agree. Miradouros are city lookout points where you get beautiful panoramic views of Lisbon. You’ll always find people listening to music and drinking beer on the hundreds of miradouros in the city. Grab a bottle of wine and some cheese to enjoy the sunset.
You’ll also find some small kiosks that sell drinks and coffee next to miradouros. Wondering which miradouros have the best views and environment? Our favorite lookout spots are Miradouro de Santa Luzia in Alfama, Miradouro da Graça, and Miradouro de Santa Catarina.
5. Tram 28 – A Scenic Route of Lisbon
One of the best ways to see Lisbon is the number 28 tram. Although the tram is a public transport service, due to the places it rides through, think of it as an affordable tourist tour.
This tram line connects Martim Moniz with Campo do Ourique. The tram stops in popular tourist districts such as Alfama, Baixa, Estrela, and grace.
In a traditional yellow tram, you will ride a scenic route through Lisbon’s narrow and steep streets, the perfect morning in Lisbon.
We recommend riding the train early in the morning to avoid crowds. Make sure to beware of pickpocketers!
Seven districts in mainland Portugal are under a yellow warning due to the heavy rain coming to Portugal on Wednesday between 3 am and 3 pm. The rain will begin in the afternoon on Tuesday, according to the Portuguese Institute of the Ocean and Atmosphere (IPMA), and is expected to remain until the end of the week.
The IPMA has said that a “significant change to the weather conditions is predicted in mainland Portugal.” The possibility of an “atmospheric river” is said to bring persistent periods of rain caused by the “arrival of tropical air masses with a large content of water vapor.”.
Along with the rain, cold weather is expected in Portugal this week.
Due to the weather predictions, the IPMA put the districts of Viseu, Porto, Viana do Castelo, Leiria, Aveiro, Coimbra, and Braga under a yellow warning between 3 am and 3 pm on Wednesday.
The districts of Porto, Viana do Castelo, and Braga are under yellow warning due to south wind, with win up to 85 kilometers an hour expected between 12 am and 9 am on Wednesday.
The districts of Porto, Faro, Setúbal, Viana do Castelo, Lisboa, Leiria, Beja, Aveiro, Coimbra, and Braga are under a yellow warning due to the maritime agitation between 3 am on Thursday and 3 am on Friday. Waves of 4 to 5 meters are to be expected.
In early October, just a few weeks ago, Portugal saw temperatures above 30 degrees.
From time to time, certain lands witness the birth of men whose names will remain engraved in the pages of history. Some for their negative influence, others for having dared to follow a path of righteousness, justice, and kindness, even though they knew it could cost them dearly.
In the Beira Alta region, a land known for embodying Portuguese characteristics of honor and obedience, two men echoed their names for eternity while embracing these traits. And if one employed obedience as a manipulation weapon, the other took the side of honor and used it as his banner.
Two fellow men from nearby villages became part not just of this region’s history but a wider one.
Two men whose contrasting ideals would mark the story of many people’s lives in opposite directions.
For better and worse, I am talking about two unique men, Aristides de Sousa Mendes and António de Oliveira Salazar.
Born on July 19, 1885, in Cabanas de Viriato, Viseu district, the man who would later be said to have “saved more Jews than Oskar Schindler,” Aristides de Sousa Mendes could have chosen a life full of ease.
He was born in a typical family of the rural Portuguese aristocracy. Catholic and defender of the monarchical regime, he nonetheless vowed not to obey the laws of unscrupulous men but to the Law of the divine.
In turn, and not far from Cabanas, António Oliveira Salazar was born four years later, on April 8, 1889, in Santa Comba Dão, in the same district.
Born into a conservative and Catholic peasant family, Salazar would be the Portuguese fascist dictator of the 20th century. A regime that would last for forty-eight years, ending belatedly on April 25, 1974.
However, even if the two men studied Law at the University of Coimbra, the lessons on the sense of justice were felt and learned unevenly.
If one was ruled by the sense of authority, imposing it harshly on the people, censoring any freedom of expression, holding the whole country back, the other opted for goodness, righteousness, and a sense of integrity.
The Catholicism taught to both had, nevertheless, been understood differently.
If Salazar used it as a motto for a conservative lifestyle imposed on the country, Aristides looked at the side of mutual help and kindness.
Both worked for the government, but while the dictator would not go far away from his roots, Aristides became an ambassador, taking Portugal’s name to the world’s four corners.
Aristides’ life seemed to be a delight for some time. He traveled to the four continents with his numerous children (14 in all), and his life went smoothly while his country entered a deep political and economic crisis.
The fall of the monarchy with the regicide of 1908. The instability of the 16 years of the first republic. The weak industrialization in a country with huge discrepancies between the urban and rural world and the final establishment of the military dictatorship in 1926.
All and more paved the way for the establishment of fascism that Salazar represented.
With the outbreak of World War II, Portugal, even though neutral, still had a dictatorial regime with an ideology that quickly aligned with those of Hitler and Mussolini.
And as such, following the same ideological line, as soon as the borders began closing to Jews and all minorities persecuted by the Nazi regime, Salazar issued a law prohibiting the same people from entering Portuguese territory.
The ill-fated circular number 14, approved on November 11, 1939, by the Portuguese Ministry of Foreign Affairs, was aimed to be distributed to all men representing the country in the various embassies.
Upon receiving it in Bordeaux Embassy and witnessing what was happening to thousands, Aristides had no choice but to disobey.
And these are exactly the small moments that become big in history. One single decision would change the lives of thousands for generations to come.
Using his power as an ambassador, Aristides rapidly began to issue visas to all the people he could save.
Helped by his friend Rabbi Kruger, Aristides is reported to have said that “if one must disobey, I would rather disobey an order of men than an order of God.”
Filled then with divine inspiration and a sense of kindness, he set up a kind of assembly line in the streets of Bordeaux and frantically stamped all the possible passports to save those souls condemned to the cruelest of deaths.
However, his fame was a double edge sword.
If, on the one hand, his remarkable reputation quickly spread, and more and more Jews were queuing up in the streets of Bordeaux, it also promptly reached Salazar.
The result was predictable: the dictator not only stripped him of his powers but also took away all of his sustenance.
Aristides would die in the same house where he was born, in Cabanas de Viriato, in extreme poverty.
Time and oblivion would ruin that house, which was only considered national heritage in 2011.
Since then, requalification works have been slowly taking place, and although the house has been approved to become a museum, it remains closed to the public.
But more than a future museum, what remains is the human legacy of the man who saved over thirty thousand lives from Nazi persecution in 1940.
According to the Aristides de Sousa Mendes Foundation, his act of bravery in doing what was right in such awful times is “considered the greatest rescue action undertaken by an individual person.”
Taken from the book “Aristides de Sousa Mendes, a Portuguese Hero” by José-Alain Fallon, the humanity of his character is deeply felt in the following words:
“They were waiting.
In the heat of that Bordeaux summer, they were waiting, thousands of them.
(…)
All were fleeing from the barbarians, whose shadow was casting over the whole of Europe.
They were called refugees. But now we know that they had been purely and simply condemned to death.
To save their lives, each one had only to get a simple signature on their passport.
But the only man who could put that signature on them was not authorized to do so. Because they were Jews, Polish, or stateless. Or of “undefined nationality .” Or to use the exact term undesirables.
How many men would have limited themselves to washing their hands like Pilate and obeying their superiors? It’s not my responsibility!
More than 20 climate activists blocked the entrance to Galp’s headquarters in Lisbon this morning, protesting the role of oil companies in the climate crisis and cost of living crisis.
Some glued themselves to the glass walls of the building to “interrupt the regular criminal activity inside the company,” said Joao Camargo of Climaximo, the organization behind the protest.
Camargo said that the entrance was first blocked at 8.15 am. However, the police arrived at 10 am, later detaining three activists.
The protest sought to highlight “that companies like Galp and their multimillionaire profits are responsible for the rise of the cost of living in Portugal and the climate chaos… Companies like Galp need to be stopped”, said Camargo to Lusa.
Climaximo argues that the record high profits of Galp of 420 million in the first semester of 2022 are “directly related to the increase in prices and inflation.”
For these activists, “the increase in the cost of living all over the world is a consequence of a capitalist economy built to be addicted to fossil fuels.”
Moreover, Climaximo argues that European governments are “giving in to the blackmail of oil companies, and instead of speeding up to end fossil fuels, continue to subsidize this energy and build more infrastructure.”
Camargo also said that the activities at the protest today do not want to speak to those responsible for Galp, saying Climaximo “does not want any communication with companies that make the present and future worse.”
Climate Change & Fossil Fuels in Portugal
In December 2019, during the European Council meeting, EU President Ursula von der Leyen said, “Portugal is one of the countries most affected by climate change.”
Portugal is a climate hotspot, with the Mediterranean region projected to experience the greatest drying among 26 regions globally.
Portugal is showing a tendency towards more intense extreme weather events, such as heat waves and droughts. The increase in severity of drought, flooding, and wildfires is already having an impact on the population, as well as agriculture and the economy.
The country is still particularly reliant on imported fossil fuels, above the average of the EU with 65% of imports.
Due to around 70% reliance on fossil fuels, Portugal’s greenhouse gas emissions increase by 13% from 2014 to 2018. However, Portugal’s reliance on fossil fuels has decreased in recent decades, falling by 13% since 1990.
In 2020, Portugal was still behind the EU average of 71%, with only five countries falling below the 60% mark: Sweden (31%), Finland (41%), France (48%), Lithuania (57%), and Denmark (59%).
Some places touch us in indescribable ways. It feels like the wind that runs through them tells us ancient legends that we seem to have always known within our deepest selves.
Places where we place our feet, and when we breathe deeply, we feel a familiar fragrance that welcomes us! We look around, and upon contemplating so much beauty, we think of settling down and staying there forever.
Places that time has almost left deserted, but that despite their few inhabitants and their difficult access, life persists.
The village that is the subject of this article is one of these places. A village with only six inhabitants, where a central family has an essential weight in the local economy.
A place where one can lead a quiet life away from the hustle and bustle of the cities.
Perhaps this is one of the most famous Portuguese images. This feeling of calmness, coming home and being in an old territory with a lot to tell.
But although there is truth in these words, there is also the misconception that Portugal is only a vast flat land of white sandy beaches.
This image, although beautiful, hides the enormous landscape variety of a country that, although small, has a tremendous diversity to be explored.
The north is mountainous, contrasting with the flatter south. And the center north is that area where the flat land meets huge mountains, from the Serra da Estrela to the massive mountain ranges that we call Magic of the Serras da Gralheira, Freita, Arada, and the Serra do São Macário.
All these areas have created a normal territorial division between the people of the coast and the people from this other distinct culture created by the rocky land that saw them born.
There is then a new image to be constructed. Portugal is also a country with mountains that also create unique feelings, magical, as many would say. And it’s here, in the northern center of Portugal, more precisely in the region of Beira Alta, one can find such a place! And I’m proud to say that it’s my native land!
Unique magic spreads through this vast and misty rocky territory! It is not by mere chance that its inhabitants call them the Magical Mountains. And the visitor who thinks this is just a name to attract tourists should not be fooled. Its magic is found in the beauty of curve after curve, down and up through winding roads. It’s magic for their animals, the cows, goats and sheep that like to pose for a photo.
Its hills either take on the feminine forms of a voluptuous woman or become flat on top, filling with unique and different flora throughout the year that cover the mountain with endless colors.
This land turns pink at the beginning of spring when the heather sprouts at the first rays of the sun. At other times it becomes yellow, full of local flora, “carqueja” (Baccharis trimera), which the local inhabitants have used to make a tea that cures urinary infections or to season the meat served at the tables of those who visit us.
And in winter, the mountains are dressed up with olive green mixed with the clouds that touch it at the top, making the place’s mystique even more accentuated.
But this magic goes beyond its natural landscape. We are in the mountains where legends tell of a dead man who killed the living.
Where shale villages have been built in the most remote and unexpected places, and where the local inhabitants have stubbornly persisted in making life in a place where the challenges of accessibility and lousy weather have not stopped the energy that still pulsates.
But of course, not everything is made of romanticism, for even the most beautiful rose raises its thorns. The harsh nature of these mountains and their climate have also shaped the character of those who live there, creating people distinctly strong, hardworking, and used to a life outside the usual comforts of the city.
In summer, there isn’t the slightest wind, and the shale stores too much heat. On the other hand, in winter, the lack of sunlight, the generalized humidity, and the scarcity of insulation in Portuguese houses make life much more challenging. In addition, the winding roads and their dangers are not to be underestimated. Quite the contrary.
On this very day, I am writing these words, and after having gone to satisfy my appetite at “Adega Típica da Pena,” a beautiful restaurant in the remote village of Pena, we were stopped by locals at the top of the mountain before the steep descent to the site. We were warned of a bus being towed away and a driver who thought it was possible to get there with this transport!
The ignorance on the bus driver’s part had led him down through what was once a goat path. Yet, the road continues to be narrow these days, and even driving in a small car is risky!
But perhaps this strange combination of factors, sometimes beautiful and stormy, makes one of the most remote and once unknown Portuguese territories fascinating!
Many foreigners have chosen the Magic Mountains to call this place their home. To the surprise of many visitors, these foreigners have formed different ways of life here. For example, the hippie community in the small village of Landeira, near Santa Cruz da Trapa, Viseu district, stands out! They have disconnected from conventional ways of life, bathing in our rivers even when winter and fog hang over us.
But besides them, these mountains are also on some tourist routes becoming famous by the day, especially in the integrated network of the renowned schist villages. But also on pedestrian routes or travel guides from various motorcycle clubs who like to race Portugal from one end to the other. For the unfamiliar, these historic villages show a unique “portugality” and are, without a doubt, places of unparalleled beauty worth visiting.
And it is villages like these, with these characteristics, that make up the absolute beauty of this region that is already unique in nature. Among them, Covas do Monte, Covas do Rio, and Fujaco are shist villages where it seems that time has stopped, where we hear water running, birds singing, and where the sunlight that falls on these shist houses seems to fill the roofs of gold such is the light that these rocks emanate from you.
Arriving at Aldeia da Pena
But of all the various villages, the one that takes the queen’s crown is also one of the smallest in Portugal. It is our exquisite and picturesque “Aldeia da Pena.”
This village, located in the São Macário mountain range, is one of the most remote villages in the country. Because of its singular beauty, it participated in the contest for one of the seven wonders of Portugal, and it’s a must on the route of the famous “Aldeias de Portugal” (Villages of Portugal).
The visitor has several alternatives when it comes to getting to Aldeia da Pena. You can come towards Serra da São Macário through the village of Sul, going up the M559 and continuing up the CM1216.
Or take the direction of Carvalhais, towards Sá, going up the Serra da Arada by the CM1225, where further ahead, you can stop for a photo at one of the many wooden swings scattered throughout the mountain. When you reach the first crossroads, you will soon see the signpost indicating the way to Pena, where you will turn right and continue along a winding road.
Another option is to take the road to Santa Cruz da Trapa, direction Fraguinha, and before you reach the stop, turn to Coelheira and continue the road. Eventually, you’ll find the same crossroads as those who took the road to Carvalhais and continue that road until you reach Serra da São Macário.
However, on getting to the summit of the Serra da São Macário, there is only one single and very narrow road that will take you to the village, and caution is required while driving.
The descent, about five kilometers, has to be done with caution on a road where sometimes the potholes are predominant and where at some points, the recent widening of the road left it uncovered, creating dirt tracks.
Once in the village, the cars are left at its entrance, in a parking space that cannot accommodate more than ten cars. But if some criticize the lack of parking, these details are essential so its charm can continue in one of the most picturesque places in Portugal.
Pena’s Last Family?
“Aldeia da Pena,” now so popular, was almost left behind about fifteen years ago. And it was around this time that RTP, a Portuguese television channel, reported on the village’s last child, Mariana, who was eight years old. The piece was melancholic, immersed in the typical “saudade” (longing) for a forgotten Portugal, showing Mariana’s daily trip from the village to the school located about twenty kilometers away, among curves and counter-curves.
It seemed that it was it! That it was the end of Pena, a noun that has a double meaning as it also means pitty. It would have indeed been a pity if Pena died. But taking another meaning of the word, “pena,” also means something is worth it. In this case, this is a village worth paying a visit to.
Almost fifteen years later, and we went in search of Mariana and her family to know more about the life of a village that has resisted all its adversities.
When we arrived, a sign in the shape of a frame welcomed visitors who could take their souvenir photographs. Behind it, the restored shist houses made up the architectural composition of a green hill. And continuing our way, the restaurant “O morto que matou o vivo” (The dead who killed the living) presents itself as a kind of gateway to the village.
And although small, a set of arrows and signals show us what to visit. There is a bookshop, Senhora Augusta’s handicraft, the Main Street where humans, goats, and sheep walk by, and another restaurant, “Adega Típica da Pena,” right next to the other.
Both establishments display their five-star emblems, with the various recommendations from well-known national newspapers indicating awards for good food and proper sleep.
We wandered around Pena, walking to the sound of goat bells. And between narrow streets, we bumped into the small handicraft store of Mrs. Augusta, who, trying to escape the still warm Fall sun, was sitting at the door of her establishment. We immediately said “good afternoon” and conversed with one of the oldest voices in the village.
Ms. Augusta immediately put us at ease, inviting us into her small establishment to shelter from the sun. She also told us briefly about her life, and because she has a low-income pension, she has this small store trying to earn extra cash.
With her wise words, we travel to a pastime with her, when people were either born or died there without being registered. And among the stories of deaths, in a small village that, despite its size, has a chapel and a local cemetery, we could not miss the famous legend of the dead who killed the living.
“That’s a well-known one,” she told us.
“They say it was just like that. A man had died here in Pena, and the living were carrying him to the next village, Covas do Rio. You see, there are many hills here, and one of the men slipped, and the dead body hit him and killed the one ahead. It’s a story everybody knows about,” she told us earnestly.
But besides the stories and good conversation, the small handicraft store offers tourists honey jars and honeycombs, which we could not resist buying. There are also pieces made of wood and stone, all handcrafted by her husband, “Senhor António,” who on that day went hunting.
But there are also all sorts of teas and little lavender sachets aromatizing the place. All of which can be bought at a reasonable price. But please, don’t forget to bring cash. There are no ATM machines here!
We then asked about little Mariana, expecting the typical answer that she would already be out of there. But to our surprise, Mrs. Augusta told us how Mariana lived there, that she worked at the restaurant “Adega Típica da Pena” and even had a younger sister who helped her.
We said goodbye and walked straight ahead to the place. In such a small area, visitors find it difficult to get lost. The restaurant is right in the middle of the village. We entered and walked down a ramp, and under a vast branch of vines full of black grapes, several visitors were eating, drinking, and having a good time.
But beyond the human landscape, one could glimpse an even more idyllic one from the terrace. A view of another mountain, between cliffs, trees, and a breathless view!
We entered the restaurant, continually awestruck by the picturesque beauty of the space. Schist tables, wood ceilings, perfect light, and notes of dollars, euros, and all kinds of world currencies hanging from the ceiling and on the walls— a sign of the many visitors who pass through there.
And then, behind the counter, receiving money and giving change, a short, nice-looking young woman, full of energy, smiled at us, camera in hand, ready to be photographed.
Our first words were to ask if she was Mariana, and what a pleasant surprise to see that we were talking to her!
We waited until she granted us a few brief minutes of conversation. But before we started our exchange, we didn’t even need to ask her if she liked living in the village as her look of happiness and contentment spoke for itself.
“I live here and will. This is where I want to stay!” she told us promptly!
At her beautiful twenty-two years of age, Mariana told us how she is finishing her degree in Food Engineering in Viseu and plans to apply her knowledge there and help the family business.
“I study inViseu during the week and work here at the restaurant to help my parents during the weekend. I’m taking this course exactly, planning to stay here, and mainly taking my parents’ business forward. I don’t want to let it perish!”
It was a pleasure to see a young woman countering the direction of the brain drain to the coast. She also told us about the most challenging days in the village. Those winter days when they only have three hours of sunshine and where the flow of tourists decreases, as opposed to summer and Easter time which usually fills up with people.
While talking to Mariana, we heard the sound of sheep and goats, and almost as if she knew them all, Mariana told us not to be afraid, that the animals were all friendly, even the big-horned male goat that was in another street next door!
She also told us about the evolution of the establishment. When it opened in 1999, the restaurant was nothing more than a small local tavern. But with the expansion of the family business, the space has been continuously expanded and can hold about forty people between the interior and the terrace.
And while talking, she sometimes went to the tables to answer customers’ requests. And with our bellies already rumbling, we sat down for lunch.
For those looking for typicality in food, going to the village of Pena is like going to a sacred place where the knowledge passed down from generation to generation has the magnificent result of surprising our taste buds.
Dishes such as grilled baby goat with bean rice, cabidela rice (chicken’s rice with chicken’s blood), wild boar, and roasted veal from the region make up the menu. We then sat at one of the tables on the terrace, ready to eat.
The starters were varied, with a choice of sausage and cheese, olives, cornbread, rye bread, chorizo, ham, and “salpicão” , another pig’s sausage!
We opted for the “chouriça,” drank one of the best house red wines we have ever had, and ate crunchy bread.
We could almost have stopped there if Mariana hadn’t brought the grilled baby goat, the bean rice in a small ceramic bowl, and a salad with vegetables from their farm.
We ate, drank, and disconnected from the busy world of everyday life, letting ourselves be carried away by the friendliness, the food, and the landscape.
The meal would not be finished without tasting a delicious chocolate cake or an almond tart. But the list continued with pannacotta, cookie cake, Passionfruit cheesecake, Serra da Estrela cheese with jam, or a slice of melon for those who want to get away from sugar.
We stayed there for a few more minutes, contemplating that moment so that it could be eternalized in our memories. We then left, saying goodbye to Mariana and her family and promising to return soon.
As we walked up the small road that led to the car, tired and sleepy from the meal, we wondered how we would make it if we had to climb all the way to the top. We gave thanks for modern life and went home by car.
On the way out, we again noticed the frame-shaped sign. Even though a few letters were missing, the sign read, “It’s worth coming to Pena.” We confirmed the veracity of those words.
But these mountains, which are located a little more than an hour southeast of the city of Porto, are not yet on the most popular tourist route in Portugal.
Some will say it’s a good thing, and others will say we need crowds here too. But, as in almost everything in life, moderation is required. And in the case of tourism, we need sustainable tourism, adapted to the conditions that this land has to receive tourists.
The case of the bus that ventured onto a forbidden road is evidence of how tourism needs to be regulated so that it does not lose quality or damage the environment that is the main attraction of the mountain.
Despite the challenges, pay us a visit and let yourself be enchanted by a land with a lot to offer. It’s worth it!
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