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Exploring Beja: Portugal’s Forgotten District Capital

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Welcome to Beja, a captivating retreat in the heart of Portugal’s Alentejo region. As you embark on a journey through its narrow cobblestone streets and historic landmarks, you’ll discover a city that seamlessly blends its ancient past with a vibrant present. Beja, formerly known as “Pax Julia” in Roman times, hides a rich history that unfolds in plain sight as you explore its medieval castle, Gothic cathedral, and charming museums.

Yet, Beja is more than just a repository of history. The city’s vibrant cultural scene comes alive in its festivals, concerts, and lively street parades. The warm hospitality of its locals, the aroma of traditional Alentejan dishes wafting from local taverns, and the serene ambiance of its public gardens create an atmosphere that welcomes travelers with open arms.

Join me as we delve into the enchanting streets of Beja, where every step is a journey through time. Let the city’s timeless charm and rich cultural heritage captivate your senses, making your visit to Beja an unforgettable chapter in your travel story.

Getting There

By Air

You’ll probably be shocked to learn that Beja is home to Portugal’s largest airport. You will be even more shocked to learn that said airport is not currently in use for passenger flights. So, in all likelihood, you will probably arrive at either Lisbon Airport – two hours away – or Faro Airport – an hour and a half from Beja.

By Train

For a more relaxed and scenic approach, the train journey to Beja offers a delightful experience. Lisbon’s Oriente train station, located just a few minutes away from the airport, connects seamlessly with Beja’s, and the picturesque ride takes you through the idyllic Alentejo countryside. Sit back, relax, and let the landscapes unfold outside your window as you approach Beja.

By Bus

This option is ideal for those who prefer a more budget-friendly travel experience. The bus journey allows you to witness the changing scenery as you make your way to Beja, offering a glimpse into the rural beauty of the Alentejo. There are frequent direct buses from both Lisbon and Faro, so you shouldn’t have any trouble getting there.

By Car

For those craving the freedom to explore independently, renting a car provides the ideal means of reaching Beja. The well-maintained highways and roads make the journey to Beja straightforward and enjoyable. From Lisbon, cross the Vasco da Gama Bridge and follow the A2 highway before switching to the A26 at Grândola. From Faro, follow the A22, switch to the A2 at Paderne crossing it to Castro Verde, where you’ll take the E802 to Beja.

What to See

Évora is the star of the Alentejo region when it comes to tourism, but Beja is charming in its own way and the much lower flux of tourists makes it a much more authentic visit. With a history going as far back as the Bronze Age, Beja displays sights from a wide range of cultures.

Castle of Beja

Dominating the skyline with an imposing presence, the Castle of Beja stands as a testament to the city’s resilient past. Dating back to the Moorish period, this ancient fortress has witnessed the ebb and flow of history, from medieval battles to tranquil periods of peace. As you ascend its weathered steps, you’re greeted by panoramic views that stretch across the Alentejo landscape.

The castle’s well-preserved walls, towers, and courtyards invite exploration, allowing you to envision the strategic importance it held during times of conflict. Engage with the echoes of the past, and let the Castle of Beja be your gateway to the city’s storied history.

Castle of Beja. Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)

Beja Cathedral

A jewel of Gothic architecture, Beja Cathedral invites you to step into a sacred space where time seems to stand still. The cathedral’s intricate carvings, stained glass windows, and soaring arches create an atmosphere of reverence and tranquility. As sunlight filters through the colorful glass, the interior comes alive with a play of light and shadows.

Explore the cloister, a serene haven adorned with azulejo tiles, and feel the weight of history in every stone. Beja Cathedral isn’t just a place of worship; it’s a living testament to the craftsmanship and devotion of those who contributed to its construction over the centuries.

Beja Regional Museum

To further unravel the layers of Beja’s cultural heritage, a visit to Beja’s Regional Museum is a must. This museum is a living archive of the region’s traditions, crafts, and artistic expressions. From traditional Alentejan textiles to religious artifacts, the exhibits provide a comprehensive overview of the city’s vibrant past.

Take your time to appreciate the attention to detail in each display, and allow the artifacts to transport you to bygone eras. Engage with the museum’s curators, who are passionate about sharing the stories behind each piece, adding depth to your exploration of Beja’s rich cultural mosaic.

Convent of Our Lady of Conception

Step into the sacred embrace of the Convent of Our Lady of Conception, an architectural gem that reflects the religious and cultural influences that have shaped Beja. The convent’s cloisters, adorned with azulejo tiles depicting biblical scenes, exude a sense of tranquility. Wander through the hallowed halls, and imagine the lives of the nuns who once inhabited this serene space.

The Convent of Our Lady of Conception invites contemplation, offering a glimpse into the spiritual heartbeat of Beja through its well-preserved architecture and timeless ambiance.

Church of Santo Amaro

Tucked away in a quiet corner of Beja, the Church of Santo Amaro is a hidden gem that showcases Manueline architecture at its finest. Dating back to the 16th century, this church is a testament to the artistic intricacies of the period. As you enter, the delicate vaulted ceiling and ornate columns transport you to a bygone era.

The azulejo tiles that adorn the church’s interior tell visual stories, adding a layer of narrative to the architectural grandeur. The Church of Santo Amaro invites you to discover the lesser-known gems of Beja, where history unfolds in the details of each stone and tile.

Beja Public Garden

Amidst the historical landmarks, find solace in the green embrace of the Beja Public Garden. This lush oasis in the heart of the city provides a serene retreat, away from the bustling streets. Stroll along shaded pathways, marvel at vibrant flower beds, and pause by the pond to reflect.

The Beja Public Garden is not merely a park; it’s a haven where nature and urban life harmonize, inviting locals and visitors alike to unwind amidst the beauty of carefully landscaped greenery.

Convent of Saint Francis

Venture further into Beja’s religious heritage with a visit to the Convent of Saint Francis. This convent, with its simple yet elegant façade, invites contemplation and introspection. As you step inside, the subdued lighting and echoing silence create a sense of reverence.

The Convent of Saint Francis showcases a blend of architectural styles, from Gothic to Manueline, offering a visual journey through the centuries. Take a moment to absorb the atmosphere, and appreciate the subtle details that make this church a hidden gem in Beja’s architectural landscape.

Botanical Museum of the Polytechnic Institute of Beja

For those with a penchant for botanical wonders, the Botanical Museum of the Polytechnic Institute of Beja beckons with a diverse collection of plant specimens. The museum provides a fascinating exploration of the region’s flora, from native species to exotic plants. Educational and visually captivating, the Botanical Museum offers a unique perspective on the natural diversity that surrounds Beja.

Engage with the knowledgeable staff, and gain insights into the ecological significance of the showcased plants, adding a refreshing dimension to your exploration of Beja’s cultural and natural heritage.

Beja Walls and Gates

As you wander through Beja’s historic center, you’ll encounter remnants of the city’s medieval walls and gates, offering glimpses into its defensive past. The Almohad Walls, dating back to the 12th century, speak of Beja’s strategic importance during the Moorish period.

The Arco da Traição (Traitors’ Arch) stands as a silent witness to historical events, its name a reminder of a medieval tale of betrayal. The walls and gates of Beja provide a tangible connection to the city’s past, inviting you to envision the medieval tapestry that once enveloped the streets you now traverse.

Historic Fountains of Beja

Discover the charm of Beja’s historic fountains, each with its own story and significance. The Fonte da Misericórdia, adorned with azulejo tiles, is a visual delight that has quenched the thirst of Beja’s inhabitants for centuries. The Fonte dos Cavaleiros, with its elegant arches, stands as a testament to the city’s medieval legacy.

Take a leisurely stroll through Beja’s streets, and you’ll encounter these fountains as not just functional structures but as symbols of Beja’s enduring connection to water, history, and community.

Beja City Hall

While exploring Beja’s historic center, take a moment to appreciate the architectural beauty of the City Hall. The Praça da República, where the City Hall is located, serves as a central hub with its open square and surrounding buildings. The City Hall, with its distinctive façade and clock tower, adds a touch of elegance to the square. As you soak in the atmosphere of Praça da República, the City Hall becomes a focal point, a symbol of local governance amidst the historical tapestry of Beja.

What to Do

Explore the Historic Center

Wander through the enchanting historic center of Beja, where every cobblestone street tells a story of centuries gone by. Lose yourself in the maze of narrow alleys, white-washed houses, and charming squares. The historic center is a living testament to Beja’s rich history and cultural heritage.

Explore local shops offering traditional crafts, engage in conversations with friendly locals, and discover hidden cafes that invite you to savor the slow pace of life. Allow the historic center to unfold its charm as you immerse yourself in the timeless ambiance of Beja.

Attend Ovibeja

For an immersive experience in Beja’s vibrant culture, time your visit to coincide with Ovibeja, one of the region’s most celebrated events. This agricultural fair showcases the best of Alentejo’s produce, traditional crafts, and local traditions. From livestock exhibitions to wine tastings, Ovibeja provides a sensory journey through the flavors and traditions of the Alentejo region.

The lively atmosphere, filled with music, dance, and the chatter of locals, offers a unique opportunity to connect with the community and witness the spirit of Beja come alive. Whether you’re a food enthusiast, a lover of traditional crafts, or simply curious about local customs, Ovibeja promises an enriching and festive experience.

Take a Hot Air Balloon Ride

For a breathtaking perspective of Beja and its surroundings, embark on a hot air balloon ride. Drift above the city and the Alentejo countryside as the sun casts its golden hues over the landscape. The serene experience provides a bird’s-eye view of Beja’s historic landmarks, vineyards, and meandering rivers.

A hot air balloon ride offers a unique and unforgettable way to appreciate the beauty of the Alentejo region, creating memories that soar above the ordinary.

Cycle the Ecovia do Alentejo

Outdoor enthusiasts can explore the Alentejo countryside by cycling the Ecovia do Alentejo. Rent a bike in Beja and pedal through scenic routes that wind through vineyards, olive groves, and picturesque villages. The Ecovia do Alentejo offers a well-marked trail, allowing you to immerse yourself in the unspoiled beauty of the region.

Stop at designated rest areas to savor local snacks, and let the gentle pace of cycling reveal the hidden gems of the Alentejo landscape. Whether you’re a seasoned cyclist or a leisurely explorer, the Ecovia do Alentejo invites you to connect with nature and experience the tranquility of the countryside.

Take a Cooking Class

Delve into the heart of Alentejan cuisine by taking a cooking class in Beja. Local chefs share their culinary expertise, guiding you through the preparation of traditional dishes such as açorda, migas, and sericaia.

The hands-on experience not only enhances your cooking skills but also provides insight into the cultural significance of each dish. Engage with local ingredients, learn the art of blending flavors, and savor the delicious results of your efforts. A cooking class in Beja is not just a culinary experience; it’s a journey into the soul of Alentejan gastronomy, where every recipe tells a story of tradition and passion.

Visit a Local Winery

The Alentejo region is renowned for its wines, and Beja serves as an ideal starting point for exploring the local vineyards. Arrange a visit to a nearby winery, where you can tour the vineyards, learn about the winemaking process, and indulge in tastings of the region’s finest wines. The rolling hills surrounding Beja are adorned with vineyards producing a variety of wines, from robust reds to crisp whites.

Pair your wine experience with local cheeses and cured meats for a complete gastronomic adventure. Visiting a local winery in Beja offers not only a taste of the region’s terroir but also a glimpse into the passionate craftsmanship that goes into each bottle.

Explore Local Markets

Immerse yourself in the daily life of Beja by exploring its local markets. The Municipal Market, with its bustling atmosphere, is a hub of activity where locals gather to purchase fresh produce, artisanal goods, and regional delicacies. Engage with vendors, sample local cheeses, olives, and cured meats, and experience the vibrant energy of Beja’s market culture. The markets are not only a place to shop for authentic Alentejan products but also an opportunity to observe the rhythms of daily life and connect with the local community.

Relax at a Traditional Café

Take a leisurely break at one of Beja’s traditional cafes, where time seems to slow down. Café Luiz da Rocha, with its historic charm, is an ideal spot to enjoy a cup of aromatic coffee and indulge in traditional pastries. Sit back, soak in the ambiance, and watch the city unfold before you. Traditional cafes in Beja are not just places to refuel; they are havens of relaxation and a glimpse into the unhurried pace of local life. Engage in conversations with locals, savor the flavors of Portuguese coffee, and let the moments linger as you absorb the charm of Beja’s cafe culture.

Visit the Ruins of Pisões

Venture beyond the city limits to explore the Ruins of Pisões, an archaeological site that unveils remnants of a Roman villa. Wander through the ancient structures, from the mosaic-adorned floors to the remnants of thermal baths, and imagine life in Roman Beja. The Ruins of Pisões provide a glimpse into the architectural sophistication of the past, offering a historical excursion for those intrigued by ancient civilizations. Engage with the site’s history through informational displays and let the ruins transport you to a bygone era.

Attend a Traditional Bullfight

For those interested in experiencing a cultural tradition deeply rooted in Portugal, attending a traditional bullfight in Beja provides a unique perspective. While controversial, bullfighting is considered an art form in Portuguese culture. Beja occasionally hosts traditional bullfights where skilled bullfighters showcase their prowess in the ring. The cultural significance, the elaborate costumes, and the dramatic atmosphere offer a glimpse into a facet of Portuguese tradition that sparks both admiration and debate. Attend a bullfight with an open mind, acknowledging the complexities of this cultural expression.

Where to Eat

Restaurante Dom Dinis

Known for its regional specialties, Dom Dinis is a culinary haven in Beja. Indulge in dishes crafted from locally sourced ingredients, such as migas and black pork. The restaurant’s cozy ambiance and attentive staff create a welcoming atmosphere for a leisurely meal.

Adega Típica 25 de Abril

Located in the heart of the city, this tavern captures the essence of Beja’s gastronomy. Enjoy a variety of tapas and petiscos, each bursting with the flavors of the Alentejo. The communal setup encourage lively conversations and a truly authentic dining experience.

Restaurante do Jaime

For a casual but charming dining experience, visit Restaurante do Jaime. This local eatery is known for its homely atmosphere and serves up a variety of traditional Portuguese dishes. Try the petiscos, small plates perfect for sharing, and immerse yourself in the local culinary scene.

Café Luiz da Rocha

Start your day with a visit to Café Luiz da Rocha, a historic café in Beja. Known for its traditional pastries and aromatic coffee, this café provides a delightful breakfast experience. Sit back, relax, and watch the city come to life as you enjoy your morning treat.

When to Visit

Spring and fall are particularly pleasant, with mild temperatures ideal for outdoor exploration. The blooming flowers in spring and the golden hues of autumn enhance the picturesque landscapes of the Alentejo.

Summer brings warmer weather, making it an excellent time for those seeking a sun-drenched escape. Just make sure to bring sun blocker and a portable fan because temperatures typically go over 40 degrees Celsius.

Winter in Beja is mild, with occasional rainfall. While some outdoor activities may be limited, the city’s historical sites and cozy cafes provide a welcoming retreat for those seeking a quieter experience.

Consider planning your visit around local festivals, such as the Ovibeja in April/May, to immerse yourself in Beja’s cultural celebrations.

Final Thoughts

Beja, with its timeless charm and rich cultural heritage, promises an unforgettable escape in the heart of the Alentejo. From the ancient walls of the Castle of Beja to the culinary delights of local eateries, every moment in this city is an exploration of history and hospitality. As you meander through the historic center, engage with friendly locals, and savor the flavors of Alentejan cuisine, Beja unveils itself as a destination where the past and present intertwine seamlessly.

Beja’s warm hospitality, coupled with its diverse attractions, ensures that your journey is not just a visit but a captivating experience that lingers in your memories long after you’ve left its cobblestone streets. Discover Beja, where every corner tells a story, and every encounter leaves an indelible mark on your soul.

Ikea invested 65 million euros in Portugal and will invest another 60 million

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Ikea invested 65 million euros in Portugal this year and is planning on investing another 60 million.

The multinational Swedish company Ikea, which is part of group Ingka, invested 65 million euros in Portugal during the fiscal year that ended in August 2023 and is planning on investing another 60 million during this year’s homologous period.

According to an interview given by the group’s Retail Operation Manager, the 2023 fiscal year was amazing for both the company and the country. Ikea grew by 11% in Portugal alone, a number that is almost twice as big as the company’s global average.

For now, the focus has been on the storage sector. Ikea is planning on transforming the existing stores and investing in automation, in order to allow orders and deliveries throughout the entire country without having to rely on the Spanish warehouses.

Instead of buying more property and building new warehouses, the company’s plan is to develop the larger stores, like the one in Loures, so that it becomes possible to deliver such service without unnecessary costs.

The truth is that many of the company’s best examples, when it comes to operations, are being developed in Portugal, and then copied all over the world.

In the Manager’s words, “there are several reasons why Portugal stands out”. The home furnishing sector is growing. Not just because of Ikea, but a lot because of it. During the last fiscal year, Ikea Portugal, which has 2 thousand and 8 hundred workers, reached 611 million euros in sales.

Hopefully, with the new investment and the current strategy, it will be able to surpass that number.

Portuguese startups generate 2.3 billion turnover and create 25 thousand jobs

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Portuguese startups generate a turnover of 2.3 billion euros and create 25 thousand jobs.

According to the numbers released this week by Startup Portugal during the WebSummit, there are 4,073 startups in Portugal.

Note that Lisbon and Porto are the two districts that concentrate the most startups. There are 1,822 startups in Lisbon and 643 in Porto.

The term startup, according to the definition provided during the event, refers to companies that employ less than 250 workers and a turnover of less than, or equal to, 50 million euros. Note that there are other criteria, but these are the more relevant.

Of the 4,073 startups, 35% are exporting companies. This value (35%) is 11% above the number of Portuguese exporting companies that are not startups. Of the 2.3 billion euros in turnover, 1.3 billion come from those same exporting startups.

Between 2019 and 2022, the turnover produced by the national startups (not just the exporting companies) grew by 24.4%. This is way above the 9.1% of the total number of Portuguese companies (startups and not startups). Moreover, 26% of the 4073 startups grew non-stop during those 3 years.

When it comes to the impact on employment, Portuguese startups have already generated 25 thousand jobs. This corresponds to an employment growth of 17%, a value that is also way above the national average, which was 1.6%. 3.8% of the startups are High Growth Companies. The term refers to companies that have an average yearly organic employment growth of 20% for three consecutive years.

Wages are also above the national average. The average monthly wage paid by startups is 1,700 euros, a number that is 37% above the average monthly wage paid by all Portuguese companies.

70% of the 4,073 companies were created during the last five years, but the years 2021 and 2022 are the ones that hold the record. In 2021, 600 startups were created, and in 2022, 706.

In terms of ownership, the majority of the startups are owned by single partners. 83.2% are owned by single partners, 9.4% belong to foreign companies, and 7.5% by other national companies.

When it comes to their sector, the vast majority belongs to information and communication technologies. 3278 of the 4073 startups belong to this sector. 61% of the 2.3 billion turnover comes from these tech companies. Notwithstanding, even though the startups that belong to the industrial sector are significantly less, their combined turnover corresponds to an astonishing 26% of the total.

19 Coolest Castles in the Alentejo

Let me just start by saying that castles are awesome. They just are. Every time I go into one or see one in the distance, I can’t help but travel back in time and imagine myself in a time of conquest and honor, plotting ways to either penetrate those rock-solid fortresses or protect it from the enemy as it approaches from afar.

Well, if you’re anything like me, you’re in luck because you can’t go too far in Portugal without finding a castle. Especially in the South, the last region to be reconquered from the Moors, and the East, by the border with the ever-threatening Spain. And the Alentejo, as lucky may have it, is both a southern region and has a border with Spain, so castles are always just a stone’s throw away.

But first things first. Let’s clarify the criteria used to define what a castle is or is not. A palace is not a castle, that one should be pretty evident. A walled city is not a castle either, which is why a city as important as Évora doesn’t have a castle despite being walled. For a monument to be classified as a castle it should fulfill two criteria: there should be a keep (or at least a watchtower) and it should be surrounded by walls. Is that clear? Okay, let’s dive right in, then!

1. MARVÃO CASTLE

It is located at one of the highest points in the Serra de São Mamede. The mountain is quite steep and is a natural defense point. In addition to its military features, the Marvão Castle is mainly appreciated for the surrounding landscape. That’s why it’s worth taking a stroll through the village along the wall corridor, ending at the keep, from where, as a popular saying goes, “you can see the backs of the birds” when they fly.

Castelo de Marvão. Photo by Rach Sam (Unsplash)

2. CRATO CASTLE

Situated in the charming town of Crato, this castle has a rich history that harks back to the 12th century when it was constructed by the Knights Hospitaller. It has witnessed periods of both tranquility and conflict, making it an important historical landmark. The town was also deeply connected to the Order of Saint John, and it remains a center of historical significance in the region.

3. VALONGO CASTLE

Valongo Castle’s origins are somewhat mysterious, but it is known to have been constructed during the medieval period, potentially to defend the region from Moorish invasions. The town of Valongo, with its ancient streets and typical architecture, encapsulates the history of Alentejo, with stories of battles and cultural exchange.

4. ESTREMOZ CASTLE

Located in the town of Estremoz, the castle dates back to the Roman era and was later expanded during the Moorish rule. Its strategic location near the border with Spain made it a vital stronghold in the region. The town has a long history tied to Portuguese royalty, and it remains an important cultural and historical center in the region.

Estremoz castle. Photo by Stephen Colebourne (Flickr)

5. VILA VIÇOSA CASTLE

The castle was initially built during the 13th century and renovated in the 16th century when the town became connected to the crown. Vila Viçosa has deep royal connections, as it was the birthplace of several Portuguese monarchs. The castle itself has played a central role in the region’s history, with its imposing architecture reflecting the power and prestige of the Portuguese royalty.

5. EVORAMONTE CASTLE

The town of Evoramonte is best known for the signing of the Treaty of Evoramonte in 1834, which marked the end of the Portuguese Civil War and the beginning of constitutional monarchy in Portugal. The castle, with its strategic positioning surrounded by the peaceful Alentejo countryside, is the village’s highlight.

Photo by Kyle Pounds (Flickr)

6. ARRAIOLOS CASTLE

Right in the heart of Arraiolos, this castle has a history that traces back to the Moorish period, with the current structure dating from the 13th century. The town of Arraiolos is renowned for its intricate woolen tapestries, and the castle itself has witnessed centuries of Portuguese history, including periods of Moorish, Christian, and royal rule.

7. ALANDROAL CASTLE

Perched in the town of Alandroal, it was built in the 13th century during the Christian Reconquista, strategically positioned to protect the region from Moorish incursions. The town, which grew around the castle, retains its medieval charm, with a rich history intertwined with battles and multiculturalism.

Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)

8. MONTEMOR-O-NOVO CASTLE

Montemor-o-Novo Castle, with origins dating back to the 12th century, has been an essential part of the city’s history. Montemor-o-Novo has been a key player in the region’s past, from its Moorish heritage to its prominence during the Portuguese Age of Discoveries.

9. REDONDO CASTLE

Unlike a lot of castles in this list, the Redondo castle feels a lot more integrated into the surrounding town. It’s still at the highest point of the town, but the white houses built both outside and inside the walls make it feel like a continuation of Redondo, and not its military stronghold.

10. JUROMENHA CASTLE

The Juromenha Castle, perched dramatically above the Guadiana River, is a historical fortress with origins dating back to the 12th century. Its strategic location and well-preserved defenses tell tales of the region’s turbulent past. The castle played a vital role in safeguarding the border and was the site of various skirmishes during the Reconquista. The surrounding village shares in this rich history and offers visitors a chance to step back in time, with remnants of its medieval past found in its architecture and layout.

Photo by Rui Ornelas (Flickr)

11. TERENA CASTLE

Situated in the quaint village of Terena, this castle was constructed in the 13th century by the Knights Templar, serving as both a military stronghold and a place of religious significance. Terena’s long history is deeply intertwined with the castle, providing visitors with a unique opportunity to explore the heritage of both the castle and the village.

12. MONSARAZ CASTLE

Perched on a hill overlooking the Alqueva Lake this postcard-village is a historical gem with roots in the Roman era, though much of its current structure was shaped during the Moorish occupation. Monsaraz, with its charming streets and well-preserved architecture, invites visitors to immerse themselves in the stories of the past, from its Roman and Moorish heritage to its Portuguese identity.

Photo by Léa Poisson (Unsplash)

13. MOURÃO CASTLE

With its stunning views over the Alqueva Lake, Mourão is an emblem of historical importance. The castle and the town have deep connections to the region’s past, where conflicts, fortifications, and strategic significance are etched into the very stones. Mourão’s history is both a living testament to the past and a welcoming destination for explorers looking for an off-the-beaten-path adventure.

14. NOUDAR CASTLE

The Noudar Castle has the unique curiosity of being a fortress without a village to protect. This castle’s function, like every other castle’s is border protection but, unlike other castles in the Alentejo, it never saw a village grow from its walls, making it an isolated location. It’s not easy to reach it, but the natural park that surrounds it is perfect for treks and exploration.

15. MOURA CASTLE

Dominating the town with what remains of its towers and walls, the castle of Moura was built by the Portuguese at the beginning of the 14th century, taking advantage of the fortifications left by the Arabs. In the second half of the century, a second walled enclosure was added to shelter the growing population. Highlights of the fortified complex include the rectangular keep and a circular tower on which a clock was added in the 19th century.

16. BEJA CASTLE

The castle, and in particular its keep, is the city’s best-known and most emblematic monument. It is a Gothic fortress, whose construction began in the 13th century, shortly after the Christian conquest of the city, and continued throughout the 14th and possibly 15th centuries. In addition to the castle, the walls that surrounded the medieval city dating from the same period are still visible, with twenty-eight towers and their respective walls remaining.

Photo by Heribert Bechen (Flickr)

17. SERPA CASTLE

The castle and the walls of Serpa dominate the surrounding Alentejo landscape and can be seen from a great distance. The fortification of this site dates back to Roman times and was later occupied by people from northern Europe and later by Muslims. A curious fact is the keep, which was badly damaged by a brutal gunpowder explosion when Serpa was besieged in the 18th century during the War of the Spanish Succession. The damage is still visible today at the entrance to the castle.

18. MÉRTOLA CASTLE

The Mértola Castle is a military structure with a walled enclosure whose main feature is the keep, built in 1292. It is an imposing monument that dominates the historic center and is one of the main attractions on the town’s heritage circuit, which mirrors the various cultures that have inhabited the Alentejo over the centuries.

19. SINES CASTLE

Overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Sines – the birthplace of Portuguese navigator Vasco da Gama – offers a front-row seat to maritime history. The town’s maritime ambiance is a sensory delight, with the invigorating scent of sea salt in the air and the rhythmic sounds of waves crashing on the shore, creating a mesmerizing historical and coastal experience.

The 9 Best Coworking Spaces in Lisbon Right Now

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The coworking scene in Lisbon is constantly growing and taking new forms. New players are constantly coming onto the scene and providing new spaces for collaboration. One trend we’ve noticed recently is the acquisition of smaller, individual spaces by larger coworking companies who cater to big companies and have multiple locations throughout the city.

One of the reasons why Lisbon has become such a popular home for digital nomads is the large array of coworking choices. This is helped by the popular Croissant app which allows its members to buy a monthly number of hours and access over 500 coworking spaces around in the world, including around 25 spaces in the great Lisbon area. These monthly plans start at 29€ for 10 hours a month. 

There are also daily, weekly, and monthly fees for floating and fixed desks at different coworking spaces, depending on the location. Whether you’re hosting an event, setting up a meeting with a client, or looking to network, here are the Top 9 coworking spaces in Lisbon right now.        

1. Avila Spaces

Avila Spaces recently won “Best Cowork in the World” at the Global Startup Awards and we have to agree that it is certainly the best coworking space that we’ve found in Lisbon. Avila Spaces currently has two spaces in Saldanha, with its second location being the first to open in a mall next to a variety of services including a food court, salons, copy shop, etc. It stands out for its innovations in getting members to engage with each other including Avila Connect, a touchscreen that instantly allows you to see member profiles and connect you with other members based on their services and business backgrounds. 

Avila Spaces Avenida da República Coworking, Photo by Becky Gillespie
Avila Spaces Atrium Saldanha, Photo by Becky Gillespie

Avila also focuses on high-quality design and decor across its spaces, going above and beyond with its free amenities. Members get access to not only free coffee but also flavored water, fruits, cake, and candy every day. There are also multiple call booths with more privacy than most and high-quality conferencing equipment in every meeting room. Monthly fixed desk members get access to Avila 24/7. Day pass and hot desk members also get access to the space from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. in addition to monthly events. For a unique Avila experience, try working from one of their cubes right in the middle of the mall in Atrium Saldanha.

Avila Spaces Avenida da República Terrace, Photo by Becky Gillespie
Avila Spaces Atrium Saldanha Cube Space in the mall, Photo by Becky Gillespie
Avila Spaces Atrium Saldanha Call Booths, Photo by Becky Gillespie

Where Avila really wins is its focus on community starting with its staff. Most coworking spaces that I visited only had one staff member on hand to welcome you (and one that I had to remove from this list had no one around or even a functioning Wi-Fi password), but Avila has 4 to 5 at its Atrium location and a minimum of two staff members at its original location at Avenida da República. They are all managed by Avila’s CEO & founder Carlos Gonçalves, always ready with a smile and a kind word when members enter the space. Carlos has been involved with the coworking industry for 13 years and his passion for the space shines through with his tireless commitment to improving Avila Spaces.

Avila Spaces Atrium Saldanha, Photo by Becky Gillespie
Avila Spaces Avenida da República Free Cake Every Day, Photo by Becky Gillespie

What sets Avila apart from the other coworking spaces in Lisbon is its community events. From yoga, meditation, different country-themed lunches, and Friday wine nights in its spaces to boat trips, golf outings, and rooftop parties, Avila is always planning its next event open to both members and non-members.

Avila Spaces Atrium Saldanha, Photo by Becky Gillespie
Avila Atrium Saldanha, Photo by Becky Gillespie

Avila’s popularity is evident when you walk in the door, and the mall location at Atrium Saldanha fills up quickly. Avila’s third space is opening in November 2023 in Parque das Naçōes. Stay tuned to its website for more details.

If you would like to get a free 1-day trial at Avila Spaces, please mention Portugal.com and this article.

  • Location: Avila Spaces – The Original: Avenida da República 6 
  • Avila Spaces Atrium Saldanha (in the mall): Praça Duque de Saldanha 1 2o andar
  •  Avila Spaces Parque das Nações (opening November 2023): Av. Dom João II 1.7.2.1., Piso 0
  • Hours of Operation: Hot desk and day rate members: 8 am – 8 pm (weekdays only), 24/7 access to fixed desk members
  • Prices: Day Pass – 50 €, 10 Day Pack – 220 €, Hot Desk – 220 €, Hot Desk Plus 4 h of meeting time per month – 275 €, Fixed Desk – On request. Please note that only the Fixed Desk option includes 24/7 access

Accepts a Croissant Membership? Yes, but log on to the app early because this place is popular

2. Second Home Lisbon

Second Home Lisbon is actually the third location for the company behind it, which started with two locations in London and has since expanded to Los Angeles. Second Home doesn’t view itself as a coworking space but as a creative accelerator, focusing on shaping creative and inspiring environments. Walking into the Lisbon location feels first like you’re entering a spaceship and then like you’re entering an urban jungle, with plants almost taking over the location. Desks need to make space for the plants here, not the other way around.

Second Home, Photo by Becky Gillespie

Members can enjoy free coffee in the working area along with a cafe in the main entrance area where they can high-quality coffee and baked goods. Other amenities include unlimited printing, phone booths, and fiber optic broadband.

Second Home, Photo by Becky Gillespie

One of the best things about Second Home is its location above the Mercado da Ribeira and Time Out Market, a huge gourmet food court. Right outside the market is the Dom Luis Garden where you can lay out on the grass or have coffee in the kiosk before returning to work. 

Second Home Lisbon, while expensive, might be worth it for the location and inspired working space.

  • Location: Mercado da Ribeira, Time Out Market, 1o andar, Avenida 24 de Julho
  • Hours of Operation:
  • Hot desk and day rate members: 8 am – 10 pm (weekdays only), 24/7 access to fixed desk members
  • Prices: Day Pass – 30 GBP (yes, British pounds), Hot Desk – 307 €, Fixed Desk – 418 €

Accepts a Croissant Membership? No

3. Idea Spaces

Idea Spaces prides itself on being an entrepreneurial community offering premium spaces in four locations across the city. In many ways, it is similar to Avila Spaces in terms of location and focus on attracting a mix of workers from large companies and individual entrepreneurs. Compared to Avila, it doesn’t put as much effort into creating consistent events to engage its members or using the latest conferencing equipment. There are also a limited number of phone booths for the size of the spaces and dogs are allowed, which can sometimes cause noise issues for people on conference calls.

Idea Spaces Palácio Sottomayor, Photo by Becky Gillespie

If you are living near one of the Idea Spaces, it is a fair option. I would choose it as an alternative to Avila if their space was filled or they were not taking any more members.

  • Location: 4 locations across the city are included in the membership fee, including Av. Fontes Pereira de Melo 16 (Palácio Sottomayor) and Av. Defensores de Chaves 4 (Saldanha)
  • Hours of Operation: Hot desk and day rate members: 9 am – 6 pm (weekdays only), 24/7 access to fixed desk members
  • Prices: Day Pass – 15 €, Weekly Pass – 60 €, Hot Desk – 120 €, Fixed Desk – Inquire at the space

Accepts a Croissant Membership? Yes

4. Heden Coworking

Heden Coworking is another coworking chain based in Lisbon that prides itself on cultivating inspiring spaces. Its newest location is attached to the Rossio Train Station and offers an interesting array of spaces to work from within the space, whether it’s a private booth, conference room, couch, or long table overlooking the entrance. Other locations include Santa Apolónia, Chiado, and Graça. Heden offers big spaces with free high-quality coffee and tea, microwaves, refrigerators, a copy machine, and even options to rent out spaces for art studios in some of their locations.   

Dogs are also welcome in Heden’s spaces so please keep this in mind for those who may take a lot of calls. Many members take calls right at their computers without going to a private booth, so the environment can sometimes get noisy.

Overall, I appreciated Heden’s creative spaces and friendly staff. If you’re looking for a more relaxed space and a fun, buzzing environment, Heden might be your answer. 

Heden Rossio entrance, Photo by Becky Gillespie
Heden Rossio, Photo by Becky Gillespie
Heden Rossio, Photo by Becky Gillespie
  • Location: 4 locations across the city included in the membership fee, including Largo do Duque de Cadaval 17 Fracção I (Rossio) and Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro 29 2nd floor (Chiado)
  • Hours of Operation: Hot desk and day rate members: 9 am – 6 pm (weekdays only), 24/7 access to fixed desk members
  • Prices: Day Pass – 20 €, Hot Desk – 250 €, Fixed Desk – Inquire at the space

Accepts a Croissant Membership? Yes

5. Nimbler Spaces

Nimbler Spaces started out in the USA with locations in Chicago and Miami before moving over to the Iberian peninsula with Barcelona and now Lisbon. Located in the easy-to-access Marquês do Pombal, Nimbler Spaces offers a small, cozy lounge area for day pass and Croissant members with access to free coffee, tea, and snacks. There is also a vending machine offering simple snacks and meals. The staff here are incredibly friendly and are on hand to help with anything you may need. Two phone booths are also located at the lobby level while conference rooms and private offices take up the higher floors in the building. There is a small rooftop on the 7th floor to enjoy those sunny Lisbon days.

Nimbler Spaces, Photo by Becky Gillespie
Nimbler Spaces, Photo by Becky Gillespie
Snack Cart, Photo by Becky Gillespiev
  • Location: Av. Duque de Loulé 110
  • Hours of Operation: Hot desk and day rate members (weekdays only): 9 am – 6 pm, 24/7 access to fixed desk members
  • Prices: Day Pass – 25 €, Weekly Pass – 50 €, Hot Desk – 175 €, Private Office – Please contact the space

Accepts a Croissant Membership? Yes

6. Resvés Cowork Space

Resvés Cowork Space is a delightful space not far from Jardim da Estrela with two floors of coworking possibilities. Day passes are available, but sadly the wait to become a monthly member is five months long! This is perhaps due to Resvés Cowork’s lovely location in Campo de Ourique, an area with no other coworking spaces of its quality available. It is clearly popular with its members and pays great attention to building its community. It offers several weekly events including lunch with its members and Portuguese-English exchange. Enjoy the outdoor terrace or make new friends in the front lobby. Hopefully, Resvés can expand to a second space to be able to open up more monthly membership options. 

Resvés Cowork Space, Photo by Becky Gillespie
  • Location: R. Saraiva de Carvalho 1C
  • Hours of Operation: Hot desk and day rate members (weekdays only): 9 am – 6 pm, 24/7 access to fixed desk members
  • Prices: Day Pass – 25 €, 4-Day Pass – 88 €, No Hot Desk available, Fixed Desk – 260 € (please join the wait list)

Accepts a Croissant Membership? No

7. LACS Communitivity of Creators

LACS (which stands for Lisbon Art Center & Studios) is another chain of coworking spaces across Lisbon including spaces in Anjos, Santos, and Cascais. This specific location is in Alcântara. Prices here are a bit lower for monthly memberships than some of the other coworking spaces in town, but this is traded off with a slightly less reliable internet connection. Enjoy the rooftop terrace with great views of the Tejo River along with regular community events. For those looking for a coworking space in the western part of the city, this is a good option. 

  • Location: Rocha do Conde de Óbidos
  • Hours of Operation: Hot desk and Croissant members (weekdays only): 9 am – 7 pm, 24/7 access to fixed desk members
  • Prices: Day Pass 24€/3 Days (please check this at the front desk), Virtual Office – 45 € (includes using LACS as your address, mailbox, and access to LACS events), Hot Desk – 120 €, Fixed Desk – 190 €, Ateliers and Private Offices – 250 €

Accepts a Croissant Membership? Yes

8. Lisbon Workhub

Lisbon Workhub is a large, well-organized space in a warehouse/art-deco wine factory near Braça da Prata on the northeastern side of town. It is popular with start-up founders and tech workers. Members can rent small offices or workspaces for presentations and meetings. The monthly membership is quite affordable here for the size and amenities of the coworking space. Three private phone booths are available, and members can also enjoy free tea and fresh fruits on Tuesdays. There are places to eat nearby and a few coffee shops.     

Lisbon Workhub Entrance, Photo by Becky Gillespie
Lisbon Workhub, Photo by Becky Gillespie
  • Location: R. Tabaqueira A2
  • Hours of Operation: Hot desk and day rate members (weekdays only): 9 am – 6 pm, 24/7 access to fixed desk members
  • Prices: Virtual Office – 45 € (includes using Workhub as your address, mail box, and 4 hours of time in meeting rooms), Day Pass – 19 €, pack of hours – 20 €/10 hours, Hot Desk – 120 €, Fixed Desk – 175 €

Accepts a Croissant Membership? Yes

9. Spaces Lisbon

Spaces is a brand of Regus, one of the largest shared spaces around the world. Centrally located in Marquês de Pombal, Spaces Lisbon is next to the sweeping Parque Eduardo VII, a great place to take a break in the middle of the day. Spaces has great staff ready to help you with whatever you need whether it’s lunch catering or preparing a delicious coffee at the in-house cafe. The central location and connection with Regus makes this a more expensive coworking membership compared to some others on the list. The well-maintained facilities and proximity to other services in the area may make it worth it.  

  • Location: Praça Marquês de Pombal 14
  • Hours of Operation: Hot desk and day rate members (weekdays only): 9 am – 6 pm, 24/7 access to fixed desk members
  • Prices: Virtual Office – 69 € (includes Spaces Lisbon as your address and mailbox), Hot Desk – 5 days per month – 79 €, 10 days per month – 109 €, full month – 179 €, Fixed Desk – 239 €, Private Office – 269 €

Accepts a Croissant Membership? No

Whatever type of coworking setup you’re looking for, Lisbon can provide it. The large number of affordable coworking spaces in various parts of the city was one of the many reasons that I decided to move to Lisbon. I also recommend getting a Croissant membership when you first arrive in Lisbon, so you can try out a number of places without needing to sign up at each place. Once you have found your favorite spot, I recommend getting a monthly membership to tap into the local community, get 24/7 access, and stay connected. Happy coworking in Lisbon!

10 Best Beaches in the Alentejo

The beach is probably one of the first things that comes to mind when you hear the word “Portugal”. It is also likely to be one of the last when you hear the word “Alentejo”.  For most, the place to go for a swim in Portugal is the Algarve, and for good reason since its beautiful beaches have attracted visitors for decades.

But if you’re going on a summer vacation, the last thing you want is to face crowds when you’re trying to relax, and that’s when the Alentejo comes into play.

Being the largest region in the country, the Alentejo stretches from the border with Spain to the Atlantic Ocean and boasts a number of incredible sunbathing spots, often much less crowded, more unique, and cheaper than those in the Algarve. And you don’t even need to be on the coast to enjoy a cool dip in the Alentejo!

1. São Torpes Beach

This beach has the particularity of having the warmest water in the whole area due to its proximity to the thermal power station’s cooling system. It is also the first beach from Sines with the least polluted water.

For surfers, this can be a perfect spot, with several options, next to the jetty and in the middle of the beach with slightly bigger waves. The bottom is sandy, so there are no dangers of rocks.

2. Samoqueira Beach

It is considered by visitors to be one of the most beautiful beaches in the world (due to the divine scenery that surrounds and caresses us). Intimate, it meanders between the cliffs, offering emerald waters in a paradisiacal setting.

Caves, islets, natural pools, and a freshwater waterfall complete a mystical setting that enchants and captivates. No words can describe it, no photo can dignify it – given the magnitude of the view and the sense of a day spent there.

3. Pessegueiro Island Beach

This never-ending beach is not located on Pessegueiro Island, but it’s directly in front of it. Legend has it that there is even an underground (and underwater) tunnel connecting the island to the mainland, although no evidence has ever been found.

This beach is perfect for crowded days since it’s a bit further from the village of Porto Covo. Here, you can have an ocean bath with the smell of the countryside. The road to get there from the village is also one of the most scenic in Southern Portugal.

4. Malhão Beach

Quiet and wild, you can find it between Porto Covo and Vila Nova de Milfontes. It has areas with and without rocks and allows you to walk almost to Pessegueiro Island. The swell of the water is ideal for surfing.

Given its length, it caters to all tastes: you can spread out your towel next to other bathers or in a more secluded area. White sands complete this idyllic setting in the heart of the Alentejo coastline.

Praia do Malhão. Photo by Lukas Menzel (Unsplash)

5. Furnas Beach

Located near Vila Nova de Milfontes, on the left bank of the Mira River, this is a river beach with a strong maritime influence. At low tide, the beach extends beyond the mouth of the River Mira, forming small coves in the sand between the rocks.

Water sports enthusiasts can windsurf, sail, or canoe along the river, where the waters are much calmer.

Furnas beach. Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)

6. Almograve Beach

The Almograve Beach, also known as Praia Grande, has a very long and wide stretch of sand. It is located near the village of Almograve. The waters are a bit choppy, the result of the rocks breaking off along the entire bathing area. The top of the cliff is topped by large dunes.

To the north, the beach is bordered by a cliff protrusion called Ponta dos Azulejos and to the south by a similar one called Ponta da Ilha. In the center is the iconic Rocha Furada. From this rock to the south, the beach is known as Meia Praia.

Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)

7. Zambujeira do Mar Beach

This beach is surrounded by high cliffs, from where you can see a stunning panorama of the ocean. It is bathed by a sea with a strong swell, which gives it good conditions for sports such as surfing and bodyboarding. This beach is very popular during the summer, especially during the Sudoeste Festival.

To get a breathtaking panoramic view of the beach climb up to the viewpoint at the top of the northern cliff – the best place to photograph the sunset, where there is also the Chapel of Our Lady of the Sea, which dates back to the 1960s.

Zambujeira do Mar. Photo by Yannick Menard (Unsplash)

8. Amália Beach

The Amália Beach owes its name to the fact that it was the retreat of Portugal’s greatest fado singer. Amália Rodrigues had a house at the top of the cliff which she used to visit to replenish her energy.

The beach is wild and very beautiful. To find it, you walk along a path lined with a stream and tunnels formed by the vegetation. The view from the top of the cliff is breathtaking. A steep staircase and some ropes give you access to the beach.

9. Monsaraz River Beach

This recently-built beach has to have one of the most beautiful backdrops in Portugal, with the dazzling village of Monsaraz on top of its hill. It was only made possible by the Alqueva Dam, which gave the whole region a lot of new possibilities for leisure and tourism.

The Monsaraz River Beach has excellent infrastructures that provide visitors with all the support they could need: grassy and sandy areas, a picnic area and a children’s playground, a floating pool with a bathing area for children and adults, and the possibility of practicing various water sports.

10. Amieira River Beach

In front of a breathtaking landscape, it offers 600m of sand, making it the largest beach in the Alqueva Dam region. But that’s not all! It also has a grassy area where you can relax and enjoy the shade provided by the parasols. For the little ones, crystal-clear, shallow waters are the perfect option.

This little paradise offers excellent support infrastructures and access conditions. It already has three large parking lots, another for motorhomes, and a picnic area. You should also be aware that there is a first aid station at your disposal should you need it.

Over and Out

The Alentejo is quickly becoming Portugal’s most famous not-so-secret hidden gem and the endless possibilities it offers to those who visit it is its greatest weapon. Who knew you could sunbathe and take a refreshing dive in Portugal’s hottest region?

Well, now that you do, make sure to explore as many beaches as you can. A lot of them are not easy to reach, making them nearly untouched by outsiders. So make sure to bring a map. And sunscreen. Lots and lots of sunscreen!

6 Reasons to Visit Peneda-Gerês National Park

In northern Portugal lies Peneda-Gerês National Park – a land of serenity hidden within dense forests. Covered in rugged mountains, mesmerizing waterfalls, serpentine roads, and long-standing castles and villages, the region is a top destination for anyone who wants to take a break from the mundane and dive deep into a natural and historical haven. Let’s take a look at 6 reasons to visit Peneda-Gerês National Park.

1. The Region Holds Geological and Archaeological Value

If you’re looking for a unique experience that will allow you to reconnect with nature on a deeper level and, at the same time, transport you back in time, Peneda-Gerês National Park is an excellent choice. Not only is it of undeniable beauty in terms of natural landscapes, but it’s also a true geological and archaeological treasure – a sanctuary that makes time stand still.

Although the oldest human signs in the park date only from 6000–3000 BC, which is unsurprising, considering the area’s geography), the park is home to granite rocks deposited 380–275 million years ago!

The Meda Da Rocalva granite landscape is regularly visited by thousands of tourists – no wonder it’s among the park’s most famous places! It is situated in Vilar De Veiga in the municipality of Terras De Bouro. Together with Roca Negra and Cutelo de Pias, Meda Da Rocalva is part of the group authorities call As três magníficas (The Three Magnificent Ones).

Furthermore, it is believed that the park was shaped into the landscape we see today during the Variscan orogeny that occurred during the Late Paleozoic. In easier terms, the Variscan orogeny was a geologic event during which mountains were built. Additionally, some hill peaks show glacier traces in the form of U-shaped valleys and flakey rocks.

In short, geology enthusiasts will undoubtedly have an amazing time in the park while immersing themselves in natural elements that formed millions of years before our time!

Photo by Tiago Aleixo (Unsplash)

2. The Park Is Rich in Historical and Religious Sites

The earliest signs of human establishments in Peneda-Gerês National Park date from 6000-3000 BC. As such, you may stumble upon dolmens and other types of megalithic tombs dating from roughly 3000 BC. The park is also historically enriched by the Roman Geira road and the multiple mile markers.

Of particular fascination for tourists interested in the historical background of northern Portugal is the village of Vilarinho das Furnas. The territory was intentionally flooded in the early 1970s. During the summer, the low water levels reveal remains of the lost village, including once-inhabited houses and pathways.

Another tourist attraction located very close to one of the park gates is the Castle of Lindoso. It’s a medieval castle that further adds value to the region’s historical heritage and enriches any visitor’s experience. The castle is thought to have been built in the 13th century and has gained its notoriety for playing a significant role during the Restoration of Independence thanks to its location close to the border.

Castle of Lindoso. Photo by Rossana Ferreira (Flickr)

Amidst the vibrant nature of the park lies the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Peneda (Santuario de Nossa Senhora da Peneda), dedicated to Our Lady of the Snows (Nossa Senhora das Neves). It is thought that she had appeared at the site during the Middle Ages, and consequently, the sanctuary was built in her honor.

In the first week of September, the sanctuary brings together thousands of people from both Portugal and the surrounding countries who, besides delighting in the natural beauty of the park, seize the opportunity to immerse themselves in a spiritual journey and seek solace within sacred spaces.

3. Peneda-Gerês Is a Botanical Gem

Do you always look forward to hikes and walks in the woods just to spot a plant in bloom? Are you usually on the lookout for particular trees or shrubs? If so, Peneda-Gerês National Park is going to be a haven for you!

The region is truly a national treasure in terms of vegetation. The park is situated between the Atlantic and Mediterranean environments, so it covers three climatic systems, which, in turn, are also affected by topography (mountainous, hilly areas). Consequently, the ecosystems it shelters allow for a highly diverse flora!

Depending on what park parts you visit, you’ll see European oak trees, butcher’s broom shrubs, maple trees, Portuguese laurel flowering plants, and even strawberry trees, which, despite their common name, produce gorgeous, round arbutus berries in autumn.

Almost 80% of the park’s territory is covered in bush and shrublands, which include European gorse, common heather, common juniper, pale butterwort, and marsh violet. Those who want to spot rare plant species should be on the lookout for the rare chain fern species growing along the river courses.

Photo by Rossana Ferreira (Unsplash)

4. A Land of Wild Animals

A trip to Peneda-Gerês National Park is incomplete without spotting at least some of the animals residing in the area. In fact, it’s almost impossible to leave the park without seeing them! It’s not uncommon for visitors to be accompanied by feral cows or horses while walking or hiking through the park! A truly unique experience indeed!

Studies have shown that Peneda-Gerês National Park is home to 235 vertebrate species. Almost all are either threatened or legally protected, which means that the park is a top destination for people looking to observe rare animals in their natural habitats.

The gold-striped salamander, for example, is among the threatened species. It’s native to the park and can be seen in mountainous areas close to well-oxygenated streams. Another species listed as Near Threatened on the IUCN Red List is the lovely European otter, which lives close to water sources.

The adorable European pine martens and the cute red squirrels are quite common but not nearly as abundant as roe deer, which are the symbol of the park.

Peneda-Gerês is home to roughly 100 Spanish ibex, which replaced the extinct Portuguese ibex. Garrano horses are highly common as well. They are not fearful of humans, so you’ll likely stumble upon some during your trip. As mentioned, wild cows play a significant role in shaping the park’s biome.

Bird-watching enthusiasts should undoubtedly add Peneda-Gerês National Park to their must-visit list! It shelters 147 avian species, most of them gathered in the Mourela region. You’ll likely spot yellowhammers, hen harriers, European honey buzzards, garden warblers, and others. Some protected birds include the red-billed chough and the snipe, which relies on Peneda-Gerês National Park as its only breeding place in the country.

Photo by Bruno Alves (Unsplash)

5. Connecting with the Land and the Community

Visiting Peneda-Gerês National Park doesn’t only make for a pleasant trip to the heart of nature, it’s also a fulfilling voyage into Portugal’s soul.

The villages and settlements within the area provide tourists with an authentic, first-hand perspective on the country’s rural areas that transcends any language barrier. Just a quick glimpse into the day-to-day life of people living in those long-standing villages can unravel Portugal’s beauty from a different point of view.

In Soajo, for example, you’ll spot the famous espigueiros, the traditional granaries used to store animal feed. The oldest espiguerios date from the 1780s and some of them are still used by locals. Don’t miss out on Lindoso, as well, which, besides the castle and its espigueiros, has some awe-inspiring viewpoints and is close to Poço Negro Waterfall.

Another truly serene region that should be a must-visit destination for anyone looking to get rid of the urban busyness, reconnect with nature and their true self, and feel the sense of Portuguese community is Várzea in Arcos de Valdevez. It’s a very small settlement at the border with Spain. The village doesn’t even have roads for cars, so you have to park somewhere outside the village. 

Várzea overlooks the Lima River, which separates Portugal and Spain. Although the village probably doesn’t have properties for rent (that’s how small and local it is!), you can rent something in the vicinity and easily arrive there by car to spend a few hours exploring the surroundings! The tranquility and peacefulness you’ll experience are indescribable – a once-in-a-lifetime experience!

6. An Abundance of Natural Landscapes

Besides the land’s historical and wildlife richness, Peneda-Gerês National Park is (obviously!) a breathing proof of nature’s grandeur. The views you’ll enjoy are truly breathtaking! The Vale da Peneda viewpoint, the Pedra Bela viewpoint, and the iconic viewpoints from the village of Pitões das Júnias offer spectacular views of the beauties of Portugal that will charm you at once!

The region is also abundant in waterfalls and hidden gems where you can swim, bask in the sun, and enjoy the silence of nature. Don’t forget to check out the Fecha de Barjas, Arado, and Portela Do Homem waterfalls!

If you are a hiking enthusiast, you can embark on a lifetime journey by choosing one of the available hiking trails. They’ll unravel the beauty of the park from a completely different angle.

75,800 euros in cash found in Prime Minister’s Chief of Staff’s office

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During the searches connected to the investigation that led to the resignation of the Portuguese Prime Minister, the authorities found 75,800 euros in cash inside the Prime Minister’s Chief of Staff’s office. 

While the Prime Minister was speaking to the country on Tuesday, announcing his resignation, the police force, the relevant judge, and the public prosecutor were conducting searches within his official residence, Palácio de São Bento.

During the search, which lasted from 2 pm until nighttime, the authorities found 75,800 euros in cash hidden inside books and empty cases of wine within Vítor Escária’s office.

According to the official statement, the Chief of Staff wanted, and managed, to conceal the illicit provenance of the money, and reinsert it into the economy to make it legitimate, knowing that such an amount resulted from the commission of a crime.

Up until now, there was nothing directly connecting the Prime Minister to the crimes committed. However, the digital evidence is yet to be analyzed. The authorities collected the Chief of Staff’s electronic agenda, emails, texts, and WhatsApp messages, in order to discover if there is any link to the Prime Minister. This will be known during the upcoming weeks.

Moreover, the authorities also searched the house of the Minister of Infrastructures, João Galamba. During the search, the authorities seized phones and computers, in order to extract and analyze the digital evidence, similar to what will happen with the Chief of Staff. Nothing illegal was found, however, the Portuguese media are reporting an apprehension of a small dose of an illicit smokable substance called hashish.

Note that, like the Chief of Staff and unlike the Prime Minister, the Minister of Infrastructure is considered a defendant.

Portuguese President dissolves parliament and schedules elections for March

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Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa, the Portuguese President of the Republic, has announced his decision on Thursday to dissolve Parliament and schedule anticipated elections for March.

After a four-hour meeting with the State Council, due to the resignation of the Prime Minister, the Portuguese President of the Republic chose to dissolve the Parliament and schedule anticipated elections.

As it is now known worldwide, for the first time in the history of Portuguese democracy, because of the actions of third parties, the Portuguese Prime Minister will be subject to an autonomous investigation performed by the Supreme Court of Justice.

As a consequence, due to the degree of seriousness of the investigation and the elevation of the office in question, the Prime Minister presented his resignation. Such action was praised by the President itself, and by the majority of the population. With it, Prime Minister António Costa was able to maintain, and maybe even increase his political capital.

According to the Portuguese Constitution, the resignation of the Prime Minister leads to the dissolution of the Government, and the decision on what to do next rests with the President of the Republic.

There were two options. Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa could either maintain the composition of the Parliament and invite the ruling party to form a new Government, or he could choose to dissolve the Parliament and schedule anticipated elections.

Despite the tie in the State Council’s voting during the meeting, with 8 votes in favor of each option, the President decided to go for the latter. Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa will dissolve the Parliament and schedule anticipated elections.

Notwithstanding, even though the President has already accepted the resignation of the Prime Minister, that decision will only be formalized at the beginning of December. So as the dissolution of the Parliament and the scheduling of the elections.

According to the President’s speech, such actions can only take place after the approval of the 2024 State Budget. This, according to his words, will help guarantee the necessary degree of social and economic stability.

Note that, if the actions were to come into effect immediately, the State Budget could not be approved, and most of the measures that were proposed would not move forward. This, according to the President, cannot happen.

In the meantime, António Costa will hold his position and perform all the duties required for what needs to happen now, and what will happen next.

It is important to consider that the current Government, the one that fell, resulted from a dissolution of the Parliament decreed by Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa at the beginning of his second Presidential term, after the failure of the 2022 State Budget Proposal. Given the scenario, in 2022, the President chose to give the power to the people.

Now, he chose to do that again. In his words “giving the floor back to the people is the strength of democracy”. Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa believes that the Portuguese, given the opportunity, will be able to choose a Government that will guarantee stability, and social, economic, and cultural progress, in liberty, pluralism, and democracy.

The anticipated legislative elections mandated by the President will be scheduled for the 10th of March 2024, well over two years ahead of schedule.

Lisbon’s Lost Café: The Legendary Chave D’Ouro

I first heard about the Café Chave d’Ouro (which translates in Portuguese as “Golden Key”) in Neill Lochery’s riveting book Lisbon: War in the Shadows of the City of Light, 1939-1945. During WWII, well-to-do refugees from other parts of Europe filled the Lisbon cafes lining the squares, and Chave d’Ouro was one of the most popular. The photos of Chave d’Ouro in Lochery’s book intrigued me, and I decided learn more about this legendary cafe.

A Brief History of Europe’s Large Café Culture

In the second half of the 18th century, the thoughts of Voltaire and Rousseau spread rapidly. As these ideas circulated, Europe saw the rise of its first cafés. Some of these iconic establishments still stand today.

Antico Caffè Greco in Rome, for instance, was founded in 1760 on the chic Via Condotti. Café Florian in Venice began in 1720, established by Floriano Francesconi in St. Mark’s Square. Additionally, there’s Café Tomaselli in Salzburg, which dates back to 1703. This café was frequented by many musicians, most notably Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.

Soon after, Lisbon embraced the café trend. However, local authorities were wary. They viewed these cafes as potential hubs for subversive activities. Cafés like Martinho da Arcada, established in 1782, and the first Nicola Café were monitored. Men under the Intendant-General, Pina Manique, kept a close watch.

Despite this scrutiny, the café trend was unstoppable. The 19th century saw these establishments flourish across Europe. They became symbols of cosmopolitanism and elegance.

Café Chave d’Ouro Opens Its Doors

Founded in 1919, Chave d’Ouro formally opened its doors on May 3, 1910, on a site previously occupied by a hardware and utility store of the same name. Spanning the entire area of a building, the café encompassed not only its mainstay—the coffee-serving section—but also included a restaurant, tea room, tobacconist, barber shop, and billiards.

The café’s entrance was known for its captivating art nouveau limestone sculpture of an angel with outspread wings, a masterful creation by Fausto Fernandes. But it wasn’t just the striking facade that drew the locals, it was also the ambiance and the café’s role as a nerve center for cultural and political activities.

Café Chave d’Ouro, Praça Dom Pedro IV (circa 1930), Unknown photographer, in FCG. Fausto Fernandes’s limestone angel can clearly be seen above the entrance here.

As the 1920s rolled around, Café Chave d’Ouro rapidly became a favorite meeting spot for downtown Lisbon traders. It was during this era that the café began hosting musical afternoons. The renowned Tea Room became the heartbeat of these musical soirees, with regular performances from the Orquestra Ligeira da Emissora Nacional, at times directed by the illustrious Tavares Belo. Such was the café’s prominence that the radio station even broadcasted live dance music from there. The cafe’s significance was further underscored by the “Hot Club’s” inaugural musician meeting in 1948. How wonderful it would be to still be able to experience such an atmosphere today!

Café Chave d’Ouro, (1941), Praça Dom Pedro IV, Kurl Pinto, in AML

One of the founding visionaries behind Café Chave d’Ouro was Joaquim Fonseca Albuquerque. Later venturing out on his own, he established the equally celebrated Café Nicola in Rossio on October 2, 1929, which you can still visit today!

The café underwent a major facelift in 1936. Unfortunately, the angelic structure gracing the front entrance of the café was replaced by an Art Deco style, modernist facade and interiors, designed by the acclaimed architect Joaquim Norte Júnior.

Café Chave d’Ouro’s Turning Moment

Café Chave d’Ouro was not just about coffee and music. The 1940s and 50s saw it transform into a hot spot for opposition to the Estado Novo, also known as the Second Republic, the Portuguese authoritarian regime installed in 1933. This was also eventually what would lead to its downfall when the café witnessed a pivotal moment in May 1958.

Café Chave d’Ouro, Praça Dom Pedro IV (1941) Gallery; Wall clock
Karl Pinto, in AMI

General Humberto Delgado, an opponent of the regime of António Salazar, who had been leading Portugal as Prime Minister and acting President since 1932, announced his candidacy for the Presidency. In a historic response to a question posed by a France Press journalist about what fate would befall Salazar won the elections, Delgado boldly proclaimed: “Obviously, I fire him!”

It is said that Salazar had the café closed the following year (1959), as he believed it was a center of “hate and dissolution.” The illustrious Café Chave d’Ouro then made way for a branch of Banco Nacional Ultramarino on May 22, 1961, which later became a branch of Caixa Geral de Depósitos.

The Coffee Legend Lives On

I had seen the name “Chave d’Ouro” a few times walking around Lisbon, so when I first came across the name in Lochery’s book, I thought for sure the café or some iteration of it might still be open. However, a curious twist in the café’s legacy is its connection to the coffee business, which is why I had seen the name around.

In the 1950s, a company named Vilarinho & Sobrinho emerged, reviving the Chave d’Ouro brand for marketing coffee. This brand was eventually acquired by Nutrinveste – SGPS SA in 1999, alongside the Nicola coffee brand. You will see both Chave d’Ouro and Nicola on many café awnings around Portugal to this day.

Today, modern storefronts exist where Chave d’Ouro once stood. Without knowing this story, it would be hard to believe that such a large café ever existed, but the legend of Café Chave d’Ouro lives on in photographs and the memories of those who worked there or frequented it. Its name lives on in the Chave d’Ouro brand and many cafés throughout the country that bear the same name.

To get a small taste of Chave d’Ouro’s former glory, you can visit Café Nicola, which still stands in the same square as when it opened its doors in 1929, 13 years after Cafe Chave d’Ouro first opened its doors.

Sipping a coffee on the terrace of Nicola, you can look across Praça Dom Carlos IV in Rossio, with the classic Teatro Nacional Dom Maria II at the north end and a marble column in the center with a bronze statue of King Pedro IV. Imagine the days of elegant cafés with chandeliers, Venetian mirrors, and men gathering to discuss the political issues of the day.

As George Steiner once wrote, “Draw the map of coffee shops and you will obtain one of the essential markers of the idea of ​​Europe.” From its establishment in 1916 to its eventual closure in 1959, Café Chave d’Ouro’s made an indelible mark on Lisbon’s cultural, political, and social landscape. The café was more than just a place to sip coffee; it was an institution, a melting pot of ideas, and a witness to history.

So, the next time you see the phrase “Chave d’Ouro,” think about this legendary café and its 43 years of history.