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Schist Villages, Treasures Hidden in Plain Sight

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I bet you’re having a hard time figuring out how to pronounce the word “schist”. Don’t worry, so am I. It’s much easier in Portuguese: “xisto” – “shees-too”. The Schist Villages are a network of, you guessed it, villages! What these 27 villages have in common is the fact that their houses are made of this hard-to-pronounce rock, in line with Portugal’s Center region’s typical architecture that has been kept for hundreds of years.

The Schist Villages, located in the center of the country, represent a hidden Portugal, away from the big cities. A Portugal of yore, of tradition and good food. A Portugal where life is slow and the people are welcoming. A Portugal covered in forests and hills, with old stone houses that urban development has forgotten… The Interior Centro region is one of the least explored regions by tourists coming to Portugal. And that’s a shame because it has so much to offer.

The 27 villages in this network are spread across the Serra da Lousã, Serra do Açor, Vale do Zêzere, and Tejo-Ocreza regions. The best way to visit these regions is to rent a car and quietly discover each road and village, stopping to enjoy the scenery, the typical gastronomy, the village café, and the contact with nature, with the possibility of hiking and mountain biking through the hills, or cooling off on the river beaches.

The Network

Spearheaded by ADXTUR, the Schist Villages Tourism Development Agency, in collaboration with 21 municipalities in the Centro Region and over 200 private operators, this regional sustainable development initiative is making significant strides as it aims to preserve and showcase the cultural and natural landscapes of the territory, breathe new life into its architectural heritage, invigorate the socio-economic fabric, and rejuvenate the arts and crafts scene.

At its core, the mission of the Schist Villages is to carve out a brighter future for this unique territory, utilizing its cultural identity as both a foundational element and a sieve. The approach is rooted in values of environmental and social sustainability, rallying resources and energies in the spirit of a living laboratory where innovative experiments take place.

Now, ideally, you’d take your time, rent a car, and enjoy all of these villages with time. But I know it can be difficult, so I’ll divide them up by region and highlight my three favorites out of each one. Ready? Let’s go!

Serra do Açor

The Serra do Açor is home to some of the northernmost villages in the network – Aldeia das Dez, Benfeita, Fajão, Sobral de São Miguel, and Vila Cova do Alva. These are some of the least explored villages in the network so, if peace and quiet is what you’re looking for, just head to any of these and enjoy their quaintness while you stroll through their streets.

1. Aldeia das Dez

When you arrive, Aldeia das Dez welcomes you with well-kept houses, a red telephone box that contrasts with the landscape, and a privileged location with open views over the surrounding countryside. Most of the buildings here are made of granite. And it’s precisely the buildings that are the most striking: Solar Pina Ferraz, also known as Casa da Obra, is a must-see. It may have been unfinished, but you can see the grandeur of what was envisioned here. Curiosities abound, including a house with an S on the façade, which is nothing more than a stone that was once used.

Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)

2. Fajão

Fajão is a peculiar village: it may be small, but there is a judge and a jail. Or there used to be. The jail has now been converted into accommodation and the Fajão Judge is a café. The brown of the schist reigns supreme in these two and even on the steps of the alleyways. In the village, you can enjoy the public swimming pool and visit the Monsenhor Nunes Pereira Museum. This museum houses the village’s first public telephone and even an engraving by Fernando Pessoa.

Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)

3. Benfeita

The highlight of the area is the Caminho do Xisto da Benfeita (Benfeita Schist Path), a circular route that starts in the center of the village and leads down into the valley of the Ribeira do Carcavão. A narrow trail, along the bank of the stream, takes us to some small but fantastic waterfalls, as well as the transformations of the landscape, the result of man’s secular action. Given the steep slope of this area, it is necessary to leave the banks of the stream and climb up old rural paths, with numerous stone stairs, so you should take extra care.

Serra da Lousã

Serra da Lousã is the area of schist villages best known to travelers. It is also the region with the largest number of villages – ten in all: Aigra Nova, Aigra Velha, Candal, Casal de São Simão, Casal Novo, Cerdeira, Chiqueiro, Comareira, Ferraria de São João, Gondramaz, Pena and Talasnal. Alto do Trevim, at an altitude of around 1200m, allows you to see from the Center region to the sea on clear days.

4. Gondramaz

Gondramaz is a small village with less than ten inhabitants, but they quickly show us that they may be few, but they are good. An inhabitant tells visitors that she doesn’t live alone, as she “lives with her neighbors” and there is a lot of care and a sense of humor in the streets. As soon as you park your car, you come across a poem by Miguel Torga. There are artistic notes on the façades.

Photo by Gondramaz (Flickr)

5. Talasnal

For some years now, Talasnal has been one of the best-known schist villages and has even been the setting for advertisements for major international chains. It’s not hard to see why, as you stroll through the streets of the village, climbing stairs, turning here and there. It’s an immensely beautiful, romantic, picturesque village. Because it’s so well known, it’s more of a tourist village, where most of the houses are lodgings, establishments or weekend homes. There are no longer any natural inhabitants here and few actually live here. But there are restaurants, cafés, cultural venues, and stores selling local products.

Talasnal. Photo by Miguel Silva (Unsplash)

6. Candal

Peaceful life in this village still attracts people to stay there and this direct contact with nature is certainly a strong point for those who choose it as a way of life. Stepping on the schist stones, walking down street after street, leaves us with the full conviction that, despite the difficulties, those who live there extract the best that nature has to offer in an inexplicable calm that is momentarily interrupted by other new residents.

Zêzere

The Zêzere villages group includes six villages – Álvaro, Barroca, Janeiro de Baixo, Janeiro de Cima, Mosteiro, and Pedrógão Pequeno – most of which are located, as the name suggests, on the banks of the River Zêzere. In this area, the river is lord and master of the landscape and of the most striking images that remain in our memory. Thinking about it, perhaps it was the view of the river that led us to select our two favorite villages.

7. Álvaro

Álvaro is not your typical schist village: the landscape, seen from the road before we arrive, shows us a village painted white and very well laid out. The schist is there, hidden underneath. It’s a resilient village, which has already recovered from strong fires, but which retains the charm of an unspoiled village. Perhaps it’s because of its faith: in Álvaro, we lost count of the churches, chapels, little chapels, and little souls that exist.

8. Janeiro de Cima

The whole village is a pleasant surprise. On the façades, the houses have an original combination of schist slabs and river pebbles, embedded here and there. At first glance, it’s a different village, due to the particularity that the pebbles add to the landscape. In the Casa das Tecedeiras, there is a giant loom to pay homage to the village tradition. There are two churches and several chapels to visit. On the river, you can see the traditional boats. And even a wheel that takes water from the river to irrigate the fields, the Roda de Janeiro, which is still in operation. Around the village, there is a walking trail to explore.

Photo by Rui Alves (Unsplash)

9. Pedrógão Pequeno

Located on a hillside above the River Zêzere, eighteen kilometers from the county seat, Pedrógão Pequeno is an ancient settlement, with some evidence of Roman civilization still remaining. The church, in Manueline style and made up of two large naves, dates from the 17th century. Also noteworthy are the Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Confiança, the Misericórdia church, the cross at the viewpoint, the sidewalk and dam of Cabril, and the Roman and Philippine bridges. The stone houses, whitewashed and with granite stonework, are extremely picturesque.

Tejo-Ocreza

The villages of the Tejo-Ocreza region form the smallest group, with only four schist villages (Água Formosa, Figueira, Martim Branco, and Sarzedas) but, at the same time, it is the largest group in territorial terms. Scattered between Vila de Rei, where Água Formosa is located, and Castelo Branco, where Martim Branco is located, they are all villages with little tourist exploitation and a sweet calm surrounded by the colors of central Portugal.

10. Figueira

The beauty of the streets, the irregular door frames, the lace curtains in the windows and the smell of figs in the air make me choose Figueira as one of the prettiest (and most genuine) villages I’ve visited. It’s easy to get lost in the streets, hidden in the shade of the vines. And that’s how you find the community oven, which is still in operation, and where you can see the wooden board where each family, in times gone by, used their “trabuleta” to mark their turn to bake bread. The marks of the community spirit that once lived in the village are numerous.

11. Martim Branco

The name of the village may be misleading, but in Martim Branco the predominant color is schist. And here it’s worth exploring not only the village, once you’ve parked your car next to the community oven, but also the banks of the river. After all, in Martim Branco you can take a refreshing dip in the Ribeira de Almaceda, which runs alongside the village. The weir with vertical slabs of schist transforms the water into pleasant pools.

12. Água Formosa

Água Formosa is hidden in a valley. Isolated by nature and emigration. However, the beauty and tranquility are attracting new residents who are giving life to the schist houses and small vegetable gardens. The streets are very narrow and movement is reserved for locals and a few visitors. The village has around two dozen schist houses. Most of them have been restored. They are on the mountainside, facing the sun and the Galega stream, which carries with it the only sound that marks the deeply isolated atmosphere.

Last Thoughts

Before signing off, there are a few things to keep in mind. First, most of the villages in each region are quite close to each other so take the opportunity to visit more than one, it’s worth it.

Second, not all the villages are exclusively made of schist, nor are they all brownish landscapes as our imagination might first think. But they all possess a singular beauty, without exception.

Third, most of the villages are located at high points or on their respective slopes. That’s why you need to be prepared to walk up and down and to wear suitable, non-slip footwear. And fourth, all in all, the Schist Villages offer good food. Make the most of your trip to discover some of Portugal’s best delicacies.

So, what are you waiting for? Put on your walking shoes and get on the road!

Alentejo’s Migas with Black Pork Recipe

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When was the last time you went to a restaurant and ordered old bread? What if I told you the Alentejo region has a magic recipe that turns old bread into the best thing ever? Don’t believe me? Try it yourself and be dazzled by Alentejo’s migas.

MI-WHAT?

Migas is a dish well-known for its simplicity, flavor, and connection to the local cuisine. Based on a philosophy of sustainability and the use of cheap, everyday ingredients, and originally made in a fire pot made of glazed red clay, migas stands out for the way it combines bread and good quality olive oil, resulting in a comforting meal full of authentic flavors.

ITS ORIGINS

For centuries, migas has been a hallmark of Alentejo’s cuisine, especially in winter. It’s a high-calorie dish that was born as a way of making use of the hard bread that fed the men who worked in the fields in the countryside. The main ingredient in the recipe is Alentejo bread. Of ancestral origin, made in the traditional way, unmistakable in taste, shape, and texture, it is the basis of many of the region’s typical recipes and an icon of the region’s identity.

HOW TO EAT IT

You can have it both as a side dish or as a main dish, depending on what you choose to include in your recipe. For example, migas with coffee and milk is a breakfast bomb that will have you full until nighttime, and migas with asparagus or cauliflower make for a great lunch on their own.

But typically, migas goes with pork. It’s a perfect combination because the migas absorb all the oils and fats, which in turn refines its flavor. And there’s no tastier pork than that from the black pigs that live in the Alentejo, so we will use that today. Which part? Up to you. Secretos, entrecosto, lombinhos, and plumas are some of the best meats you’ll ever taste, so the choice is all yours. For this recipe, we will go with the easier-to-find lombinhos, or tenderloins.

PORTIONS

4 to 6.

INGREDIENTS

  • 500g of black pork tenderloin
  • 1 chorizo sausage
  • 1kg of homemade wheat bread (hard)
  • 3 cloves of garlic
  • Olive oil
  • Salt

INSTRUCTIONS

  • Cut the meat into regular cubes. Crush the garlic and coat the meat with it, leaving it there for a few hours (or even overnight).
  • Cut the chorizo into small pieces.
  • Fry the meat and chorizo in a frying pan, adding a just splash of water (so they don’t burn). Don’t add olive oil yet, we need the meat fat’s taste. Remove the meat as it browns.
  • Now pass the fat from frying the meat through a sieve and keep it nearby.
  • Cut the bread into slices and pour it into the frying pan. Sprinkle with a little boiling water and immediately beat it with a wooden spoon, crushing it.
  • Once most of the water is absorbed by the bread, season it with some of the fat you kept all while whisking the migas, but don’t use it all up. They should be well seasoned but not soaked in fat.
  • Shake the pan over the heat and roll the migas into a thick omelet shape. This is not obligatory, but it’s how this dish is traditionally presented.
  • Once the migas are wrapped in a thin golden crust, place them on the platter, grease with some of the fat you have left and a splash of olive oil, and garnish with the meat.
  • Rejoice, as you just found a way to turn old bread into a tasty meal!

Now that you know how to cook it, you can try it with different ingredients (just don’t change the old bread, that one’s essential). Any meal consisting of meat goes well with migas.

And you know what else goes well with migas, especially if you’re eating it with pork? A glass of red wine. The Alentejo is well-known nationally for its wines, but still relatively unknown in the foreign market, so make sure you try them.

Bom apetite!

Students in need will receive a free breakfast at school

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According to a proposal of the Portuguese Socialist Party to alter the 2024 State Budget, the most disadvantaged students frequenting mandatory schooling will be able to get free breakfast at school.

Currently, these students already benefit from free lunch and have the possibility of accessing a free afternoon snack provided by the municipality. If this proposal moves forward, two-thirds of the main three daily meals will be guaranteed for those who need them the most.

The proposed measure shall apply to every student who benefits from the highest level of school social action, independently of attending public, or private schools. This level of social action is only granted to students whose annual household income does not exceed 3102,4 euros or, in other words, 221,6 euros per month, for 14 months.

The Portuguese Ministry of Education recognizes that this measure can definitely and effectively help deal with difficulties that are imposed on children originating from disadvantaged households and/or social settings.

Given that the measure was proposed by the Portuguese Socialist Party, which was elected with an absolute majority, it will pass and come into effect.

Concerning the teachers, the Portuguese Government approved, in the Council of Ministers, a measure that supports middle school and high school teachers who are placed at least 70 km away from their homes.

The measure was also part of the 2024 State Budget, but the Council of Ministers chose to speed up its execution. Four thousand teachers will benefit from this support until 2025, and the total cost of executing it will be around 8 million euros.

The measure, which was already approved and will come into effect, is only for teachers working in Lisbon and Algarve, and the support is only in terms of housing. The reason why the measure is restricted to these regions is because of the fact that it is where teachers refuse to be placed because of the excessively high housing prices.

Apart from the distance, another eligibility criteria will be the effort rate. Only teachers with an effort rate above 35% will be able to benefit from the support. The basis of the rate calculation will be the burden of the permanent housing that is required by the placement.

Note that the maximum support each eligible teacher will be able to get, per month, is 200 euros. Moreover, the numbers provided above (4 thousand teachers and 8 million euros) are just an estimate. The number of teachers that were provided corresponds to those that were identified until now. However, it is not static. Neither is the cost. If more teachers are eligible, the bigger the costs.

The Portuguese Attorney General does not feel responsible for the PM’s resignation

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This Thursday, Attorney General Lucília Gago broke the silence and spoke about Operation Influencer, warning that the Public Ministry only did its job and that the Prime Minister was only mentioned because of matters of transparency.

The supervisor of the criminal investigation that led to the resignation of the Portuguese Prime Minister was questioned about the Prime Minister’s decision. In her own words, she does not “feel responsible for anything”.

The Attorney General’s statement was the first public declaration made by the relevant authorities after the operation that was conducted on November 7 and led to the detention of five people for questioning. None of which was the Prime Minister.

In total, there are nine defendants connected to the case. Among them are the former Minister of Infrastructure (who resigned even more recently than the Prime Minister), the President of the Portuguese Environment Agency, the former speaker of the Portuguese Socialist Party, and the Start Campus company.

The Prime Minister felt the need to resign after finding out that his name had been mentioned by those being investigated by the Public Ministry because of big lithium and hydrogen deals, and the data center in Sines.

The Prime Minister was mentioned because it was relevant to mention him, for transparency reasons, according to the AG. If he had not been mentioned, it could have been affirmed that something very relevant was being omitted, and that could not have happened.

Up until the statement both the Attorney General’s office and the Public Ministry had been criticized publicly. The latter, for its role, and the first for its silence. However, such scrutiny is expected to end. The Public Ministry and the Attorney General’s office will continue to investigate without unnecessary drama.

Portugal’s Most Unique Christmas Traditions

Ho-Ho-Oh-I-can’t-believe-it’s-almost-Christmas-again! A time of joy, cozy fireplaces, and presents. But, if you’re thinking of heading to Portugal, it’s also a time when each city, town, or village displays some of their most ancient and unique traditions, definitely worth a visit if you’re around.

I’ll focus on things you won’t be able to find in other countries – so I won’t bother mentioning generic Christmas markets or the beautiful Christmas lights – and on places that don’t usually get the spotlight – so forget Lisbon or Oporto, I’m sure you’re well aware of those already.

So, without further ado, let’s unwrap this early Christmas gift.

Visit Garfe’s Nativity Scenes…

Every year, around Christmas, the parish of Garfe, in the municipality of Póvoa de Lanhoso, is transformed into the ‘Village of Nativity Scenes’, bringing magic and animation to the Christmas season.

The event, whose main driving force is Father Luís Peixoto Fernandes, is the result of the efforts and participation of the entire community, who decorate the village with dozens of nativity scenes.

Each crib presents particularities from the history of the Minho region and life in the countryside, lending a little of itself to the Christmas celebration, and a Mass is celebrated around each crib.

… or Piódão, the “Nativity Scene Village”…

Due to its perfect setting in the middle of nature, with its houses arranged in the shape of an amphitheater on the mountainside, Piódão is commonly known as the “Nativity Village”.

A typical Portuguese village, but one that takes us back to the Portugal of several years ago. There are no shopping centers here or in the surrounding area. While not a tradition in itself, visiting Piódão has become a sort of Christmas tradition of its own.

Most of the inhabitants work in agriculture and livestock farming, the elderly sit outside their homes reading a book, the surrounding air and nature are much purer, and life this simple has its charm.

Piodão. Photo by Daniel Páscoa (Unsplash)

… or Cabeça, the “Christmas Village”

In this Christmas party, the original concept is maintained: all the decorations in the village are made from resources and materials from forest clearing and the passion and ingenuity of the people of the village! After all, Christmas in the mountain village of Cabeça is as genuine and pure as the air you breathe here.

Everything is made with the wise hands of the 170 or so residents of this Mountain Village and with materials from nature that result from the surgical clearing of the forests of the Serra da Estrela Natural Park and neighboring land. Twigs, vines, pine trees, leaves, corn stalks, and other recycled materials are the raw materials for the Christmas decorations.

Monsaraz in the Alentejo and Óbidos in the Oeste region are two other locations that dress up accordingly during Christmas.

Warm up by Penamacor’s huge bonfire…

Every year, as Christmas approaches, in all the parishes of the municipality, young men of military service age join together to cut and transport the logs – madeiros in Portuguese – that will feed the bonfire to warm the Child Jesus.

The large pile of wood, deposited in the churchyard, is set alight at nightfall on the 23rd and remains alight for several days. After Christmas dinner, the population gathers around the bonfire in a ritual gesture of fraternal reunion.

The rest of the town, which was officially founded in the 13th century, is well worth a visit, as there are still monuments that attest to Penamacor’s strategic military importance, as well as other emblematic monuments.

Penamacor. Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)

… or by Barrancos’, further South

This tradition is slightly different from the one in Penamacor. In Barrancos, the madeiro is not the tradition itself, but the means of fulfilling a culinary tradition.

Instead, the bonfire is lit so that the townspeople can gather on Christmas Eve and roast their catalão – a Barrancos delicacy based on black pork, similar to chouriço but with a much stronger flavor.

Barrancos is famous in Portugal for being the only place where, every year during the local festivities, the slaughter of the bull still takes place after the bullfights. This is a tradition that the town conserves given its proximity to Spain, just a few miles away.

Have a Christmas banana in Braga…

No, seriously. In the city of Braga, there’s no Christmas without the Bananeiro. One of Braga’s favorite traditions began around 40 years ago when the shopkeepers of Rua do Souto decided to gather outside Casa das Bananas, in the late afternoon of December 24, to wish happy holidays to acquaintances and strangers, accompanied by a glass of muscatel wine and a banana.

The habit of eating a banana and drinking a banano went from being a social occasion for a small group of friends and customers to becoming a meeting point for all the people of Braga on the eve of Christmas Day. Nowadays, on the afternoons of December 24th, the street is invaded by thousands of people to fulfill the ritual.

Braga. Photo by Rafael Molica (Unsplash)

… or some chestnuts in Aldeia Viçosa

On December 26, the Magusto da Velha – literally the “old lady’s magusto” – is celebrated. The tradition goes back to the story of a very rich old lady who wanted to leave a perpetual income to the parish council.

The sum was to be used to offer the poor a good dose of chestnuts and wine. In return, the old woman – her first name is unknown – asked everyone to say an Our Father to her soul at Christmas.

On December 26, around 150 kilos of chestnuts rain down from the church tower, while the bells ring non-stop. As well as praying for the old woman’s soul, the people present fill their pockets with chestnuts, which are then roasted in the embers of the Madeiro de Natal (Christmas wood), which usually still warms up those in attendance. Red wine is also distributed to toast the old woman.

Ask whether the boy pees in the Azores…

A tradition that has been maintained in the Azores is “O Menino mija“, a symbol of the archipelago’s ethnographic heritage. Between December 24th and January 6th, groups of men and women go from house to house visiting family and friends and tasting traditional sweets and liqueurs, which are always displayed on the tables at this time.

Before entering, it’s obligatory to ask the question: “Does the boy pee?” This Azorean tradition led to the creation of a liqueur with the same name. The liqueur can be found in various stores or online, but hurry, because it sells out quickly during the festive season.

Santa Maria, Azores. Photo by Richard Tanguy (Flickr)

… or get spooked by Varge’s Caretos

This is part of the Boys’ Festival that celebrates the winter solstice and is an almost spiritual experience. Masked men, called caretos, spread absolute mayhem in the village of Varge, in Trás-os-Montes, rattling women, symbolizing their return to the fertile land.

From December 24 to 26, young people from the village return home to take part in this festival and keep the tradition alive. On December 24, a meeting of the unmarried boys is organized, where secret preparations are made for what will happen.

On December 25, after Christmas mass, the boys appear dressed as caretos, jumping, shouting, and laughing to the sound of their rattles and a bagpiper accompanied by a drum and box. Another tradition is the cantar das loas, where people in the village are criticized or ridiculed for events and conduct throughout the year.

If you fail to book accommodation in Varge, head over to Ousilhão for a similar tradition.

Stay over for the Janeiras

The Janeiras got their name from the month during which it takes place – Janeiro or January. The Christmas season in Portugal is not over until the 6th of January, or Dia de Reis, the day in which the Wise Kings arrived in Bethlehem with gifts for Jesus.

And, even though rarer these days, in some towns and villages in Portugal, the tradition of having carolers walking the streets at night between the 1st and the 6th still takes place. Once the carol is over in a house, the owners are expected to bring in the janeiras, such as chestnuts, walnuts, apples, chorizo, black pudding, etc.

The songs used are usually well-known, although the lyrics are different in each town. They are simple songs that praise Baby Jesus, Our Lady, Saint Joseph, and the residents who contributed. Typically, there were also a few insulting quatrains reserved for the people who didn’t say “janeiras“, so don’t forget to say it at the end.

Last Thoughts

As you can see, Portugal is home to a lot of unique Christmas traditions, especially in the less crowded interior where mass tourism hasn’t homogenized the culture of its people. Food is a big part of these traditions and, indeed, Christmas and Portugal together equate to feasting.

On Christmas Eve, the typical recipes have cod as their main ingredient. On Christmas Day, turkey is king of the table. The most typical drinks at this time of year, apart from wine, are liqueurs such as port and muscatel. And don’t forget the Bolo Rei, a typical Christmas pastry with candied fruit on top.

So make sure to pack a warm coat and your holiday spirit and come with plenty of appetite before heading over to Portugal this December!

Bolo Rei. Photo by Britta Frahm (Flickr)

The 7 Best Libraries in Lisbon to Study and Get Your Work Done

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Lisbon is famous for its beautiful and historical buildings, and its libraries are no exception. Several of Lisbon’s libraries are former palaces, tucked into corners of gorgeous museums, or attached to universities. However, some of Lisbon’s biggest libraries are not easy to access for the average person looking for a place to study. They may require an advance reservation, only be available as part of a tour, or be limited to students or researchers studying a certain subject.

Today, we would like to focus on the 7 best Lisbon libraries where you can study and get your work done. We start with libraries in the Bibliotecas de Lisboa (BLX) network and finish with the biggest library in the city.

The BLX network of 17 libraries also includes 3,000 activities per year. From art exhibitions to conversations with authors to theatre, dance, and even video game design, the BLX network makes a strong effort to keep its Lisbon communities educated and connected.

1. Biblioteca de Belém

Belém Library, Photo by Becky Gillespie
Cafe and Garden, Belém Library, Photo by Becky Gillespie

The Belém Library has been open to the public since 1965. It once served as a Natural History Museum and later provided lodging for Naval Academy students. Housed in the 18th century Marquês de Angeja Palace, its rooms have ample natural light and a few cozy chairs for settling in with a book. The sun terrace also offers views of the Tagus River.

Visitors can delve into over 1,700 works on feminist themes in the Ana Castro Osório collection. Unique to the library is its literacy initiative involving dogs that assist children. The library’s location is strategic, surrounded by landmarks like the Jerónimos Monastery and MAAT. And while you’re in the area, you may as well head over to the most famous pastel de nata place in town, Pasteis de Belém.

In addition to reading spaces, the library’s garden hosts the CCC Café. Managed by Corações com Coroa, the café is perfect for a leisurely brunch. The Belém Library offers something for everyone in an important cultural corridor of the city.

Address: R. da Junqueira 295 297

Opening Times: Tuesdays–Fridays, 10 am – 6 pm

Check out the website here

2. Biblioteca de Alcântara

Biblioteca de Alcântara, Photo by Becky Gillespie

The Biblioteca de Alcântara occupies the historic Count of Burnay’s Mansion, a significant 19th-century building that once belonged to the affluent Burnay family. Initially a community fixture, the building hosted the Ferreira Borges Technical School in the 1930s.

It stood near the site of a defining moment in Alcântara’s history, the 1961 assassination of artist and anti-fascist José Dias Coelho by the PIDE, a Portuguese security agency that existed during the Estado Novo regime of António de Oliveira Salazar. José Dias Coelho was memorialized in Zeca Afonso’s song and is also the name of the street where the library is located.

Architect Margarida Grácio Nunes’s design for the new Biblioteca de Alcântara earned acclaim for its social impact, garnering a National Urban Rehabilitation Award in 2020. Embodying the Arab toponym Al-Quantara’s meaning, “the bridge,” the library emerged from engaging community dialogue, integrating a Community Theater even before its official opening.

Boasting a Community Theater, Children’s/Youth Choir, and the “Lives and Memories of Alcântara” project, the library serves as the cultural hotbed of the community. It features a Lisbon and Alcântara-focused collection and a gallery for temporary art exhibitions. The library, envisioned as a second home for citizens, also offers a serene garden, complete with a fountain and a Pedro Croft sculpture, creating an oasis of tranquility and reflection.

Address: R. José Dias Coelho 27 – 29

Opening Times: Mondays–Fridays, 10 am – 6 pm (occasionally, Saturdays will be open instead of Mondays; please check the website)

Check out the website here

3. Biblioteca Palácio Galveias

Situated close to notable institutions like Culturgest and the Gulbenkian Foundation, the Biblioteca Palácio Galveias resides in a 17th-century palace built by the Távora family. After several changes in ownership, including acquisition by the 5th Count of Galveias, it became part of Lisbon’s cultural infrastructure, housing the Municipal Archive, Library, and Museum.

After undergoing refurbishment from 2015 to 2017, the Biblioteca Palácio Galveias beautifully melds historic architecture with modern facilities. The library has inspired and served writers like Maria Teresa Horta and Nobel laureate José Saramago. Horta delved into research there for her book “As Luzes de Leonor,” and Saramago chose this space for his final interview in 2009, underscoring the library’s enduring impact on literary minds.

Address: Campo Pequeno 1049-046

Opening Times: Mondays, 1 pm – 7 pm, Tuesdays–Fridays, 10 am – 7 pm, Saturdays, 1 pm – 7 pm

Check out the website here

4. Biblioteca Camões

The Biblioteca Camões, housed in the historical Palácio Valada-Azambuja, is a beacon of culture in Lisbon. Rebuilt after the catastrophic 1755 earthquake, the palace became renowned for its influential occupants, including the Marquês de Pombal. Eça de Queiroz’s “O Mandarim” attests to the palace’s societal significance with mentions of grandiose gatherings held within its walls.

By the 20th century, the building’s role had evolved, serving as the headquarters for “A Lucta,” a prominent Republican newspaper. The transformation continued when, in 1973, it began a new chapter as the Municipal Library for the Blind. The Biblioteca Camões was officially established in 1982, positioned near the eponymous square, becoming a hub for the local community.

The library boasts an extensive collection and diverse programs, attracting children, families, and seniors alike. Art exhibitions are frequently on display, complemented by proximity to the Chiado Museum, situating it firmly within the Bairro das Artes. A highlight for visitors is the exquisite bust of poet Luíz de Camões, crafted by notable sculptor José Joaquim Teixeira Lopes.

Moreover, the Biblioteca Camões prides itself on offering the finest view of the Tagus River. From the Sala das Artes, a glance through the window next to the fireplace reveals a stunning panorama of Lisbon, where the city’s rooftops cascade toward the water’s edge.

Address: Largo Calhariz 17 1o andar

Opening Times: Tuesdays–Fridays, 10 am – 6 pm

Check out the website here

5. Biblioteca de Marvila

The Biblioteca de Marvila, designed by Architect Hestnes Ferreira, occupies an impressive space of nearly 3,000 m2. Incorporated into the historic Quinta das Fontes, the library combines original structures with new additions, including an auditorium for 172 people. This blend of old and new mirrors the library’s setting in Lisbon’s rapidly changing Marvila district, where the vestiges of a rural and industrial past are making way for a vibrant present.

Opened on November 27, 2016, the Marvila Library quickly became a cultural lifeline for a diverse community with a particular focus on inspiring local children and teens to play and create video games. It serves as a crossroads for the exchange of ideas and a space where the past and future of the city converge. Its programs, designed to engage and inspire, attract a wide range of visitors, creating new cultural dynamics.

Key offerings include the “Dias de Marvila,” featuring local events and partnerships, and the “Bibliogamers,” a haven for gaming enthusiasts. The “Human Library” project, recognized for its fight against discrimination, stands out for its social impact. Additionally, community-oriented initiatives like “Sê Bairrista,” “Meio no Meio,” and “Visionários” foster urban regeneration and social inclusion, underscoring the library’s role in community development and cultural engagement.

Address: R. António Gedeão

Opening Times: Mondays–Saturdays, 10 am – 6 pm

Check out the website here

6. Biblioteca São Lázaro

In 1883, Lisbon unveiled its oldest public library, the Biblioteca São Lázaro. Originally serving as Lisbon’s Central Library, it is a landmark of knowledge and history. Situated in the Parish of Arroios, Portugal’s most diverse area, the library has transitioned into a vibrant community space. It focuses on educational programs, including Portuguese language courses for locals.

The São Lázaro Library collaborates with various cultural organizations like Associação Cultural SOU and Carpintarias de São Lázaro. These partnerships aim to foster community growth and shared learning objectives.

Beyond its historical significance as Lisbon’s first public library, São Lázaro entices visitors (and fans of Harry Potter) with its Noble Hall. This architectural marvel has stood untouched since the library’s inception. The hall’s pentagonal design, in addition to its noble wood shelves and a bamboo spiral staircase, captivates all who enter. The expansive mezzanine and central chandelier add to its grandeur.

Address: R. do Saco 1

Opening Times: Mondays–Saturdays, 11 am – 1 pm, 2 pm – 7 pm

Check out the website here

7. Biblioteca Nacional de Portugal

The Biblioteca Nacional de Portugal is the one library on this list that is not part of the BLX municipal network in Lisbon. Although it is not as suitable for daily study, it is still possible to come and enjoy this beautiful building and find a place to study for the day.

Established in 1796, the Biblioteca Nacional de Portugal has evolved from the Royal Public Library of the Court, reflecting Portugal’s literary tradition and historical development. With over three million items, the library boasts a diverse collection, including rare manuscripts, cartography, iconography, and music. It also serves as a leading research hub, offering vast resources to scholars worldwide. The library’s mission extends to promoting Portuguese literary heritage globally.

Biblioteca Nacional de Portugal, Lisboa, Photo by Biblioteca de Arte, Flickr

Address: Campo Grande 83

Opening Times: Mondays–Fridays, 9:30 am – 7:30 pm, Saturdays, 9:30 am – 5:30 pm

Check out the website here

Getting a Library Card

Getting a library card at one of Lisbon’s municipal libraries gives you access to all of the libraries’ books, DVDs, and online resources free of charge. It took me about 10 minutes to sign up with a staff member in person and I was given a card right away. 

A library card will also give you access to over 7,000 top publications from around the globe at Pressreader. This includes the Washington Post, Bloomberg Business Week, and the Guardian.

Happy reading!

Library Card, Photo by Becky Gillespie

Winter Guide to Lisbon: Winter Activities in Lisbon 2023-2024

Are you trying to decide on a destination for this winter’s vacation? Think no more! Lisbon should be at the top of your list.

Not only will you not freeze because Lisbon’s winter weather is quite pleasant, but you’ll also enjoy highly diverse activities – an evening at the Christmas market, a day spent on the beach, or a morning delighting in the famous pastéis de nata for breakfast! Without a doubt, you won’t have time to get bored.

If you’re still not sure whether Lisbon is as vibrant and eventful during the winter as it is during the summer, we’ve got you covered! Keep reading to learn about Lisbon’s winter weather and some activities you may enjoy during your stay.

Lisbon in Winter: Lisbon Weather in Winter

One thing you’ll like about your trip to Lisbon is its winter weather. Although winters are quite humid and it tends to rain more often than during other seasons, the temperatures are high enough for you to enjoy the city. Lisbon is known for being the European capital with the warmest winters!

The temperatures average between 8.3 and 18.6 degrees Celsius. December is the wettest month of the year, so you’ll want to prepare yourself for rain walks. January is the coldest, with temperatures ranging between 11 and 19 degrees Celsius during the day and 3 and 13 degrees Celsius during the night.

Even though Lisbon has much more precipitation during the winter, rainfall is often interspersed with a few hours of sunshine. On average, Lisbon has up to six hours of sunshine daily in winter.

7 Best Lisbon Winter Activities

Keep reading to learn about 7 best Lisbon winter activities! You’ll undoubtedly add some (or all!) to your to-do list.

1. Enjoy the Christmas Market

If you plan to visit Lisbon in December, you’ll have the opportunity to enjoy the city’s winter charm. We recommend starting your journey from Wonderland Lisboa, located in Parque Eduardo VII. It’s a dream destination for any Christmas enthusiast! There’s an extensive Christmas market, an ice skating rink, a huge Ferris wheel, and a myriad of foods to delight in.

Afterward, head toward the city center via Avenida da Liberdade, which is lit up by millions of Christmas lights. Praça do Comércio is home to Lisbon’s Christmas tree – an incredible aesthetic delight! While you’re enjoying the magic atmosphere, don’t forget to try Ginja de Obidos, the traditional Portuguese liquor served in a chocolate cup.

2. Explore the City Center

Walking down the central streets of Lisbon is extremely aesthetically enriching! The fascinating tiled structures, the well-preserved buildings featuring unique architectural characteristics, and even the street art make one’s trip memorable.

You can start your journey from Baixa-Chiado, then head toward Rossio Square, Rua Augusta, and Praça do Comércio. After you’ve enjoyed the beautiful views of 25 de Abril Bridge and the Sanctuary of Christ the King seen above the waters of the Tagus River, continue toward Alfama.

Prepare yourself for a challenging journey – the Lisbon city center is quite a hilly region, so you’ll likely get some cardio done! We left Alfama for dessert so that you can delight in the incredibly beautiful sunset colors of the Portuguese skies from Miradouro de Santa Luzia.

Commerce Square. Photo by João Reguengos (Unsplash)

3. Connect with Our Planet’s Wildlife at Oceanário de Lisboa

Does the weather forecast predict a rainy day? That’s not a problem! Plan a visit to Oceanário de Lisboa.

Exploring the oceanarium’s exhibition will be a once-in-a-lifetime experience for any wildlife enthusiast! It has 8000 sea creatures living in seven million liters of saltwater. You’ll see mammals, birds, invertebrates (the white-spotted jellyfish is our favorite!), fishes, and amphibians.

In addition, the oceanarium has quite a rich plant and algae collection. The most recent exhibition, ONE, the Ocean as you never felt it, makes any visitor shudder at the way it depicts the connection between people and the ocean.

While you’re at the oceanarium, and if the weather allows it, don’t miss out on the opportunity to view the city from above. Telecabine Lisboa is right next to the oceanarium. If it stops raining, you’ll probably see the most beautiful sunset sky ever!

Here’s a tip: if you come to Lisbon around Christmas, check out the schedule of any places you want to visit, as some may be closed.

Lisbon Oceanarium. Photo by Max Kukurudziak (Unsplash)

4. Perfect Your Souvenir Hunting Skills

You’ll certainly have to reserve some time for souvenir hunting. As you walk the streets of Lisbon, you’ll notice that Portugal is highly appreciative of art and handmade stuff. The city center is filled to the brim with souvenir shops. Finding a perfect product that will serve as a good memory for yourself or a unique gift for someone can be quite challenging.

We recommend checking out the handmade azulejo tiles. They are by far Portugal’s most iconic pieces of art, as you’ll probably notice once you get more acquainted with the city.

Check out the Arte Rustica and The Ceramic Heart shops on Rua Augusta. They have some incredible pieces of handmade tiles, but also other artisanal products. Another shop you may want to consider is the Lisbon Shop close to Praça do Comércio.

5. Savor the Portuguese Cuisine

Visiting Portugal without trying its traditional dishes makes for an incomplete trip! Your culinary journey through the Portuguese mix of flavors will only deepen your appreciation for the country!

Make sure to taste bacalhau à lagareiro – roasted codfish served with baked potatoes. It is believed that the dish originates from olive presses (called lagar in Portuguese). It may have been created by olive oil mill workers (called lagareiros), who placed the cod in olive oil and then baked it in an oven. So besides having an incredible combination of flavors, bacalhau à lagareiro also has a historical and traditional touch.

Don’t forget to try polvo (octopus) à lagareiro as well! Another Portuguese dish you don’t want to miss out on is arroz de marisco (rice with seafood), which is pure joy for any foodies!

Don’t even get us started on the cakes and pastries! Pastéis de nata (best served at Pastéis de Belém), pão de ló, bolas de Berlim, bolos de arroz, and (one of our favorites!) baba de camelo. The latter translates as camel slobber, which makes it quite a funny dish, but it’s incredibly tasty!

Bacalhau a bras. Photo by Frances Bean (Flickr)

6. Have Fun at Festivals, Concerts, and Other Events

Be it that you want to have fun at a party, go to the cinema or the theater, or listen to the traditional fado – you won’t have any issues finding an event.

We particularly recommend attending a fado concert. It’s a traditional Portuguese music genre that dates back to the beginning of the 19th century. It will be a pity to visit Portugal without enriching your trip with the cultural and historical tunes of fado.

If you’re a music or dance enthusiast, you can attend a performance at The São Carlos National Theater. In December, for example, you can enjoy the incredible performance of La Sylphide choreographed by August Bournonville.

Furthermore, if you’re visiting Lisbon in February and are a Harry Potter fan, you won’t want to miss out on seeing the Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows Part I movie at Arena Altice. It is accompanied by Orquestra Filarmonia das Beiras performing the movie’s soundtrack live! The event takes place on the 17th of February, 2024.

7. Enjoy a Day on the Beach

It may sound crazy going to the beach during the winter, right?! Well, that’s not so odd when we’re talking about Portugal! Some winter days are quite springish, so going to the beach seems only normal, especially if you’re visiting Lisbon in February. 

One may expect beaches to be deserted during the winter. Not in Portugal, though! Even on gloomy days, you’ll spot people walking their dogs, going for a run, or simply enjoying the peacefulness.

Check out the beaches in Cascais, Ericeira, Costa da Caparica, or Sesimbra, and enjoy a day spent in the relaxing (or tumultuous, depending on the weather!) atmosphere provided by the ocean. 

Besides, if you do choose to visit any of the cities mentioned above, not only will you see the open ocean and its charming waves, but you’ll also visit the city landmarks – there are plenty of them!

If you decide to have a walk on the beach, don’t forget to bring a scarf and a warm jacket, as it’s usually quite windy there during the winter.

Guincho Beach. Photo by Pasqualino Capobianco (Unsolash)

Exploring Beja: Portugal’s Forgotten District Capital

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Welcome to Beja, a captivating retreat in the heart of Portugal’s Alentejo region. As you embark on a journey through its narrow cobblestone streets and historic landmarks, you’ll discover a city that seamlessly blends its ancient past with a vibrant present. Beja, formerly known as “Pax Julia” in Roman times, hides a rich history that unfolds in plain sight as you explore its medieval castle, Gothic cathedral, and charming museums.

Yet, Beja is more than just a repository of history. The city’s vibrant cultural scene comes alive in its festivals, concerts, and lively street parades. The warm hospitality of its locals, the aroma of traditional Alentejan dishes wafting from local taverns, and the serene ambiance of its public gardens create an atmosphere that welcomes travelers with open arms.

Join me as we delve into the enchanting streets of Beja, where every step is a journey through time. Let the city’s timeless charm and rich cultural heritage captivate your senses, making your visit to Beja an unforgettable chapter in your travel story.

Getting There

By Air

You’ll probably be shocked to learn that Beja is home to Portugal’s largest airport. You will be even more shocked to learn that said airport is not currently in use for passenger flights. So, in all likelihood, you will probably arrive at either Lisbon Airport – two hours away – or Faro Airport – an hour and a half from Beja.

By Train

For a more relaxed and scenic approach, the train journey to Beja offers a delightful experience. Lisbon’s Oriente train station, located just a few minutes away from the airport, connects seamlessly with Beja’s, and the picturesque ride takes you through the idyllic Alentejo countryside. Sit back, relax, and let the landscapes unfold outside your window as you approach Beja.

By Bus

This option is ideal for those who prefer a more budget-friendly travel experience. The bus journey allows you to witness the changing scenery as you make your way to Beja, offering a glimpse into the rural beauty of the Alentejo. There are frequent direct buses from both Lisbon and Faro, so you shouldn’t have any trouble getting there.

By Car

For those craving the freedom to explore independently, renting a car provides the ideal means of reaching Beja. The well-maintained highways and roads make the journey to Beja straightforward and enjoyable. From Lisbon, cross the Vasco da Gama Bridge and follow the A2 highway before switching to the A26 at Grândola. From Faro, follow the A22, switch to the A2 at Paderne crossing it to Castro Verde, where you’ll take the E802 to Beja.

What to See

Évora is the star of the Alentejo region when it comes to tourism, but Beja is charming in its own way and the much lower flux of tourists makes it a much more authentic visit. With a history going as far back as the Bronze Age, Beja displays sights from a wide range of cultures.

Castle of Beja

Dominating the skyline with an imposing presence, the Castle of Beja stands as a testament to the city’s resilient past. Dating back to the Moorish period, this ancient fortress has witnessed the ebb and flow of history, from medieval battles to tranquil periods of peace. As you ascend its weathered steps, you’re greeted by panoramic views that stretch across the Alentejo landscape.

The castle’s well-preserved walls, towers, and courtyards invite exploration, allowing you to envision the strategic importance it held during times of conflict. Engage with the echoes of the past, and let the Castle of Beja be your gateway to the city’s storied history.

Castle of Beja. Photo by Vitor Oliveira (Flickr)

Beja Cathedral

A jewel of Gothic architecture, Beja Cathedral invites you to step into a sacred space where time seems to stand still. The cathedral’s intricate carvings, stained glass windows, and soaring arches create an atmosphere of reverence and tranquility. As sunlight filters through the colorful glass, the interior comes alive with a play of light and shadows.

Explore the cloister, a serene haven adorned with azulejo tiles, and feel the weight of history in every stone. Beja Cathedral isn’t just a place of worship; it’s a living testament to the craftsmanship and devotion of those who contributed to its construction over the centuries.

Beja Regional Museum

To further unravel the layers of Beja’s cultural heritage, a visit to Beja’s Regional Museum is a must. This museum is a living archive of the region’s traditions, crafts, and artistic expressions. From traditional Alentejan textiles to religious artifacts, the exhibits provide a comprehensive overview of the city’s vibrant past.

Take your time to appreciate the attention to detail in each display, and allow the artifacts to transport you to bygone eras. Engage with the museum’s curators, who are passionate about sharing the stories behind each piece, adding depth to your exploration of Beja’s rich cultural mosaic.

Convent of Our Lady of Conception

Step into the sacred embrace of the Convent of Our Lady of Conception, an architectural gem that reflects the religious and cultural influences that have shaped Beja. The convent’s cloisters, adorned with azulejo tiles depicting biblical scenes, exude a sense of tranquility. Wander through the hallowed halls, and imagine the lives of the nuns who once inhabited this serene space.

The Convent of Our Lady of Conception invites contemplation, offering a glimpse into the spiritual heartbeat of Beja through its well-preserved architecture and timeless ambiance.

Church of Santo Amaro

Tucked away in a quiet corner of Beja, the Church of Santo Amaro is a hidden gem that showcases Manueline architecture at its finest. Dating back to the 16th century, this church is a testament to the artistic intricacies of the period. As you enter, the delicate vaulted ceiling and ornate columns transport you to a bygone era.

The azulejo tiles that adorn the church’s interior tell visual stories, adding a layer of narrative to the architectural grandeur. The Church of Santo Amaro invites you to discover the lesser-known gems of Beja, where history unfolds in the details of each stone and tile.

Beja Public Garden

Amidst the historical landmarks, find solace in the green embrace of the Beja Public Garden. This lush oasis in the heart of the city provides a serene retreat, away from the bustling streets. Stroll along shaded pathways, marvel at vibrant flower beds, and pause by the pond to reflect.

The Beja Public Garden is not merely a park; it’s a haven where nature and urban life harmonize, inviting locals and visitors alike to unwind amidst the beauty of carefully landscaped greenery.

Convent of Saint Francis

Venture further into Beja’s religious heritage with a visit to the Convent of Saint Francis. This convent, with its simple yet elegant façade, invites contemplation and introspection. As you step inside, the subdued lighting and echoing silence create a sense of reverence.

The Convent of Saint Francis showcases a blend of architectural styles, from Gothic to Manueline, offering a visual journey through the centuries. Take a moment to absorb the atmosphere, and appreciate the subtle details that make this church a hidden gem in Beja’s architectural landscape.

Botanical Museum of the Polytechnic Institute of Beja

For those with a penchant for botanical wonders, the Botanical Museum of the Polytechnic Institute of Beja beckons with a diverse collection of plant specimens. The museum provides a fascinating exploration of the region’s flora, from native species to exotic plants. Educational and visually captivating, the Botanical Museum offers a unique perspective on the natural diversity that surrounds Beja.

Engage with the knowledgeable staff, and gain insights into the ecological significance of the showcased plants, adding a refreshing dimension to your exploration of Beja’s cultural and natural heritage.

Beja Walls and Gates

As you wander through Beja’s historic center, you’ll encounter remnants of the city’s medieval walls and gates, offering glimpses into its defensive past. The Almohad Walls, dating back to the 12th century, speak of Beja’s strategic importance during the Moorish period.

The Arco da Traição (Traitors’ Arch) stands as a silent witness to historical events, its name a reminder of a medieval tale of betrayal. The walls and gates of Beja provide a tangible connection to the city’s past, inviting you to envision the medieval tapestry that once enveloped the streets you now traverse.

Historic Fountains of Beja

Discover the charm of Beja’s historic fountains, each with its own story and significance. The Fonte da Misericórdia, adorned with azulejo tiles, is a visual delight that has quenched the thirst of Beja’s inhabitants for centuries. The Fonte dos Cavaleiros, with its elegant arches, stands as a testament to the city’s medieval legacy.

Take a leisurely stroll through Beja’s streets, and you’ll encounter these fountains as not just functional structures but as symbols of Beja’s enduring connection to water, history, and community.

Beja City Hall

While exploring Beja’s historic center, take a moment to appreciate the architectural beauty of the City Hall. The Praça da República, where the City Hall is located, serves as a central hub with its open square and surrounding buildings. The City Hall, with its distinctive façade and clock tower, adds a touch of elegance to the square. As you soak in the atmosphere of Praça da República, the City Hall becomes a focal point, a symbol of local governance amidst the historical tapestry of Beja.

What to Do

Explore the Historic Center

Wander through the enchanting historic center of Beja, where every cobblestone street tells a story of centuries gone by. Lose yourself in the maze of narrow alleys, white-washed houses, and charming squares. The historic center is a living testament to Beja’s rich history and cultural heritage.

Explore local shops offering traditional crafts, engage in conversations with friendly locals, and discover hidden cafes that invite you to savor the slow pace of life. Allow the historic center to unfold its charm as you immerse yourself in the timeless ambiance of Beja.

Attend Ovibeja

For an immersive experience in Beja’s vibrant culture, time your visit to coincide with Ovibeja, one of the region’s most celebrated events. This agricultural fair showcases the best of Alentejo’s produce, traditional crafts, and local traditions. From livestock exhibitions to wine tastings, Ovibeja provides a sensory journey through the flavors and traditions of the Alentejo region.

The lively atmosphere, filled with music, dance, and the chatter of locals, offers a unique opportunity to connect with the community and witness the spirit of Beja come alive. Whether you’re a food enthusiast, a lover of traditional crafts, or simply curious about local customs, Ovibeja promises an enriching and festive experience.

Take a Hot Air Balloon Ride

For a breathtaking perspective of Beja and its surroundings, embark on a hot air balloon ride. Drift above the city and the Alentejo countryside as the sun casts its golden hues over the landscape. The serene experience provides a bird’s-eye view of Beja’s historic landmarks, vineyards, and meandering rivers.

A hot air balloon ride offers a unique and unforgettable way to appreciate the beauty of the Alentejo region, creating memories that soar above the ordinary.

Cycle the Ecovia do Alentejo

Outdoor enthusiasts can explore the Alentejo countryside by cycling the Ecovia do Alentejo. Rent a bike in Beja and pedal through scenic routes that wind through vineyards, olive groves, and picturesque villages. The Ecovia do Alentejo offers a well-marked trail, allowing you to immerse yourself in the unspoiled beauty of the region.

Stop at designated rest areas to savor local snacks, and let the gentle pace of cycling reveal the hidden gems of the Alentejo landscape. Whether you’re a seasoned cyclist or a leisurely explorer, the Ecovia do Alentejo invites you to connect with nature and experience the tranquility of the countryside.

Take a Cooking Class

Delve into the heart of Alentejan cuisine by taking a cooking class in Beja. Local chefs share their culinary expertise, guiding you through the preparation of traditional dishes such as açorda, migas, and sericaia.

The hands-on experience not only enhances your cooking skills but also provides insight into the cultural significance of each dish. Engage with local ingredients, learn the art of blending flavors, and savor the delicious results of your efforts. A cooking class in Beja is not just a culinary experience; it’s a journey into the soul of Alentejan gastronomy, where every recipe tells a story of tradition and passion.

Visit a Local Winery

The Alentejo region is renowned for its wines, and Beja serves as an ideal starting point for exploring the local vineyards. Arrange a visit to a nearby winery, where you can tour the vineyards, learn about the winemaking process, and indulge in tastings of the region’s finest wines. The rolling hills surrounding Beja are adorned with vineyards producing a variety of wines, from robust reds to crisp whites.

Pair your wine experience with local cheeses and cured meats for a complete gastronomic adventure. Visiting a local winery in Beja offers not only a taste of the region’s terroir but also a glimpse into the passionate craftsmanship that goes into each bottle.

Explore Local Markets

Immerse yourself in the daily life of Beja by exploring its local markets. The Municipal Market, with its bustling atmosphere, is a hub of activity where locals gather to purchase fresh produce, artisanal goods, and regional delicacies. Engage with vendors, sample local cheeses, olives, and cured meats, and experience the vibrant energy of Beja’s market culture. The markets are not only a place to shop for authentic Alentejan products but also an opportunity to observe the rhythms of daily life and connect with the local community.

Relax at a Traditional Café

Take a leisurely break at one of Beja’s traditional cafes, where time seems to slow down. Café Luiz da Rocha, with its historic charm, is an ideal spot to enjoy a cup of aromatic coffee and indulge in traditional pastries. Sit back, soak in the ambiance, and watch the city unfold before you. Traditional cafes in Beja are not just places to refuel; they are havens of relaxation and a glimpse into the unhurried pace of local life. Engage in conversations with locals, savor the flavors of Portuguese coffee, and let the moments linger as you absorb the charm of Beja’s cafe culture.

Visit the Ruins of Pisões

Venture beyond the city limits to explore the Ruins of Pisões, an archaeological site that unveils remnants of a Roman villa. Wander through the ancient structures, from the mosaic-adorned floors to the remnants of thermal baths, and imagine life in Roman Beja. The Ruins of Pisões provide a glimpse into the architectural sophistication of the past, offering a historical excursion for those intrigued by ancient civilizations. Engage with the site’s history through informational displays and let the ruins transport you to a bygone era.

Attend a Traditional Bullfight

For those interested in experiencing a cultural tradition deeply rooted in Portugal, attending a traditional bullfight in Beja provides a unique perspective. While controversial, bullfighting is considered an art form in Portuguese culture. Beja occasionally hosts traditional bullfights where skilled bullfighters showcase their prowess in the ring. The cultural significance, the elaborate costumes, and the dramatic atmosphere offer a glimpse into a facet of Portuguese tradition that sparks both admiration and debate. Attend a bullfight with an open mind, acknowledging the complexities of this cultural expression.

Where to Eat

Restaurante Dom Dinis

Known for its regional specialties, Dom Dinis is a culinary haven in Beja. Indulge in dishes crafted from locally sourced ingredients, such as migas and black pork. The restaurant’s cozy ambiance and attentive staff create a welcoming atmosphere for a leisurely meal.

Adega Típica 25 de Abril

Located in the heart of the city, this tavern captures the essence of Beja’s gastronomy. Enjoy a variety of tapas and petiscos, each bursting with the flavors of the Alentejo. The communal setup encourage lively conversations and a truly authentic dining experience.

Restaurante do Jaime

For a casual but charming dining experience, visit Restaurante do Jaime. This local eatery is known for its homely atmosphere and serves up a variety of traditional Portuguese dishes. Try the petiscos, small plates perfect for sharing, and immerse yourself in the local culinary scene.

Café Luiz da Rocha

Start your day with a visit to Café Luiz da Rocha, a historic café in Beja. Known for its traditional pastries and aromatic coffee, this café provides a delightful breakfast experience. Sit back, relax, and watch the city come to life as you enjoy your morning treat.

When to Visit

Spring and fall are particularly pleasant, with mild temperatures ideal for outdoor exploration. The blooming flowers in spring and the golden hues of autumn enhance the picturesque landscapes of the Alentejo.

Summer brings warmer weather, making it an excellent time for those seeking a sun-drenched escape. Just make sure to bring sun blocker and a portable fan because temperatures typically go over 40 degrees Celsius.

Winter in Beja is mild, with occasional rainfall. While some outdoor activities may be limited, the city’s historical sites and cozy cafes provide a welcoming retreat for those seeking a quieter experience.

Consider planning your visit around local festivals, such as the Ovibeja in April/May, to immerse yourself in Beja’s cultural celebrations.

Final Thoughts

Beja, with its timeless charm and rich cultural heritage, promises an unforgettable escape in the heart of the Alentejo. From the ancient walls of the Castle of Beja to the culinary delights of local eateries, every moment in this city is an exploration of history and hospitality. As you meander through the historic center, engage with friendly locals, and savor the flavors of Alentejan cuisine, Beja unveils itself as a destination where the past and present intertwine seamlessly.

Beja’s warm hospitality, coupled with its diverse attractions, ensures that your journey is not just a visit but a captivating experience that lingers in your memories long after you’ve left its cobblestone streets. Discover Beja, where every corner tells a story, and every encounter leaves an indelible mark on your soul.

Ikea invested 65 million euros in Portugal and will invest another 60 million

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Ikea invested 65 million euros in Portugal this year and is planning on investing another 60 million.

The multinational Swedish company Ikea, which is part of group Ingka, invested 65 million euros in Portugal during the fiscal year that ended in August 2023 and is planning on investing another 60 million during this year’s homologous period.

According to an interview given by the group’s Retail Operation Manager, the 2023 fiscal year was amazing for both the company and the country. Ikea grew by 11% in Portugal alone, a number that is almost twice as big as the company’s global average.

For now, the focus has been on the storage sector. Ikea is planning on transforming the existing stores and investing in automation, in order to allow orders and deliveries throughout the entire country without having to rely on the Spanish warehouses.

Instead of buying more property and building new warehouses, the company’s plan is to develop the larger stores, like the one in Loures, so that it becomes possible to deliver such service without unnecessary costs.

The truth is that many of the company’s best examples, when it comes to operations, are being developed in Portugal, and then copied all over the world.

In the Manager’s words, “there are several reasons why Portugal stands out”. The home furnishing sector is growing. Not just because of Ikea, but a lot because of it. During the last fiscal year, Ikea Portugal, which has 2 thousand and 8 hundred workers, reached 611 million euros in sales.

Hopefully, with the new investment and the current strategy, it will be able to surpass that number.

Portuguese startups generate 2.3 billion turnover and create 25 thousand jobs

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Portuguese startups generate a turnover of 2.3 billion euros and create 25 thousand jobs.

According to the numbers released this week by Startup Portugal during the WebSummit, there are 4,073 startups in Portugal.

Note that Lisbon and Porto are the two districts that concentrate the most startups. There are 1,822 startups in Lisbon and 643 in Porto.

The term startup, according to the definition provided during the event, refers to companies that employ less than 250 workers and a turnover of less than, or equal to, 50 million euros. Note that there are other criteria, but these are the more relevant.

Of the 4,073 startups, 35% are exporting companies. This value (35%) is 11% above the number of Portuguese exporting companies that are not startups. Of the 2.3 billion euros in turnover, 1.3 billion come from those same exporting startups.

Between 2019 and 2022, the turnover produced by the national startups (not just the exporting companies) grew by 24.4%. This is way above the 9.1% of the total number of Portuguese companies (startups and not startups). Moreover, 26% of the 4073 startups grew non-stop during those 3 years.

When it comes to the impact on employment, Portuguese startups have already generated 25 thousand jobs. This corresponds to an employment growth of 17%, a value that is also way above the national average, which was 1.6%. 3.8% of the startups are High Growth Companies. The term refers to companies that have an average yearly organic employment growth of 20% for three consecutive years.

Wages are also above the national average. The average monthly wage paid by startups is 1,700 euros, a number that is 37% above the average monthly wage paid by all Portuguese companies.

70% of the 4,073 companies were created during the last five years, but the years 2021 and 2022 are the ones that hold the record. In 2021, 600 startups were created, and in 2022, 706.

In terms of ownership, the majority of the startups are owned by single partners. 83.2% are owned by single partners, 9.4% belong to foreign companies, and 7.5% by other national companies.

When it comes to their sector, the vast majority belongs to information and communication technologies. 3278 of the 4073 startups belong to this sector. 61% of the 2.3 billion turnover comes from these tech companies. Notwithstanding, even though the startups that belong to the industrial sector are significantly less, their combined turnover corresponds to an astonishing 26% of the total.