Produced by Leonardo DiCaprio, the documentary “From Devil’s Breath” about the Portuguese fires in 2017 in Pedrógão Grande is being released on Friday. The film will be shown in the Salas Nos in Aveiro, Braga, Coimbra, Funchal, Lisboa, Loulé, Matosinhos, and Viseu between November 11 and 13.
“From Devil’s Breath” will also debut in the US on MSNBC on Sunday, November 13, and will be available on the streaming platform Peacock.
Five years ago, the Pedrógão Grande fires killed 66 people and injured 250 people. It is known as the deadliest fire in Portugal.
Directed by Orlando von Einsiedel, the film is part of the docuseries The Tipping Point by Trevor Noah’s producing company. The film crosses the stories of survivors of Pedrógão Grande and the ecologist Tom Crowther, that has been at the scene and researching solutions to protect people from the climate crisis.
The film will thus include accounts by family members of those killed by the fires, such as Nadia Piazza, that lost her 5-year-old son, as well as those injured in the fires, such as Vitor Neves.
In Portugal, the tickets for the film will have a “symbolic cost of €5, and a portion of the money will be donated to a forestation project,” said Cinemas Nos.
The first showing on Friday, in the Amoreiras movie theater in Lisbon, will include a debate about the climate crisis with Miguel Costa Matos from the Socialist Party, co-producer Catarina Fernandes Martins, and Sofia Carmo, the person responsible for the reforestation of Pedrógão Grande.
So it’s time to plan your relocation to Lisbon, Portugal. If you have children, childcare and education are on top of your mind. The cost of education in Lisbon will be heavily determined by whether you want to put your kids in the public or private sector. If you want your children to learn English, an international school will be required. Unfortunately, these are not cheap!
However, when it comes to creches, you will likely have to place your children in a Portuguese one. These are a lot more affordable and, for some kids, completely free. Let’s take a look at a short overview of the education system in Portugal and the best international schools out there in Lisbon.
Nurseries, known as creches in Portugal, are for children under three years old in Portugal. According to OECD and EU23 data, children in Portugal spend 39.1 hours per week in a nursery.
Portugal has private and IPSS creches. An IPSS is a Particular Social Solidarity Institution. As a general rule, these are always paid by the family, although the government subsidizes a part of the value in relation to the tax bracket of each family for most facilities.
The general value for a creche in Portugal is around €200 and €300 per child. Again, this depends on your family’s tax bracket.
For example, in Cascais, a family in the first tax bracket might pay around €80 to €100, while a family in the third tax bracket might pay around €200, depending on the child’s age.
However, the Portuguese government announced back in April of 2022 that daycares, with agreements with the social security system, would be free for all children up to one year old for the years 2022/2023. This is available regardless of tax bracket, with the measuring having started on September 1, 2022.
Here are some popular creches in Lisbon:
Os Fraldas
Creche Maria Catita
Creche na Quinta
Babete & Companhia
Creche & Aparece
Casa do Bebe
Preschool/Kindergarten in Portugal
In preschool or kindergarten, children from the ages of three to five years old are taught to read, write, count, and draw, as well as take part in activities and sports.
State preschools are free of charge. Still, disadvantaged families are given priority due to the limited number of places. Therefore, almost 50% of Portuguese children are attending private preschools at the moment.
A private kindergarten will cost you anywhere between €350 a month to €1,800, the latter mostly for international schools. Private kindergartens always teach a foreign language and tend to have no long waiting lines.
For a public school, expect to wait for 1 to 2 years. Although these are free, meals and transport could cost you around €50 a month.
Photo by Anton Sukhinov (Unsplash)
Compulsory Education
School only becomes compulsory from 6 to 18 years old. At six years old, basic education begins, also known as Primeiro Ciclo.
Take a look at the stages of mandatory education in Portugal:
Primeiro Ciclo (1st Cycle): Ages 6 to 10 (1st to 4th grade)
Segundo Ciclo (2nd Cycle): Ages 10 to 12 (5th and 6th grade)
Terceiro Ciclo (Third Cycle): Ages 12 to 15 (7th to 9th grade)
Ensino Secundario: Ages 15 to 18 (10th to 12th grade)
Photo by Taylor Flowe (Unsplash)
5 Best International Schools in Lisbon
Let’s take a look at the best schools in Lisbon for a variety of ages. From French, German, American, and British schools, finding an international school for your child in Portugal come with endless options. Most private schools offer pre-schools but do not have creches for kids under 3. We will take a look at the best creches in Lisbon in the next section.
1. German School
The German School is a private Portuguese and German-speaking school, one of the best schools in the country. Founded in 1848, the school is the second oldest German school in a foreign country.
The school is divided into three parts, a Kindergarten and a Primary School in Lisbon and Estoril, as well as a secondary school in Telheiras, Lisbon. The school has a little over 1,000 students and a staff of 145 teachers and educators.
Made up of 8 buildings, the primary school and social sciences have their own buildings. The school also has a library with around 12,000 books, 2 IT rooms, an auditorium, as well as a pool and terrace.
German School Tuition Fees
Kindergarten Lisbon €6,700
Kindergarten Estoril €7,520
1st-4th Grade Lisbon €6,780
1st-3rd grade Estoril €7,600
5th – 9th Grade €6,800
10th – 12th Grade €6,880
2. St. Julian’s School
St Julian’s is the largest British International School in Portugal. Located in Carcavelos, St Julian’s provides an international curriculum based on the English National Curriculum for students between 3 and 16 years old. The school also offers the International Baccalaureate (IB), a prestigious diploma for the remaining two years of high school.
Tthe school also has a Portuguese section where children between the ages of 6 and 15 can access the Portuguese national curriculum while still having some joint classes with international students, such as Art.
The school boasts incredible facilities, such as an 18th-century palace housing the art and music department and the dining hall, as well as an assembly place. Along with other facilities, St Julian has some of the best school sports facilities in the country.
St. Julian’s Tuition Fees
Foundation to Y6 €10,749 – €14,546
Y7 – Y8 – Y9 €16,131
Y10 – Y11 €19,800
Y12 €25,260
IB Diploma Y13 €16,610
3. Lisbon Montessori School
Located in Cascais, Lisbon Montessori School offers programs for 3 to 12 years olds. The classes are mixed-age, allowing students to learn from each other, think independently, and connect with the real world.
This school is bilingual, with classes predominantly in English but with Portuguese-speaking staff as well. The school is an authentic Montessori learning organization that has been accredited by the MSA-CESS in the United States but is still speaking approval by the Portuguese Education Ministry.
At a Montessori school, there are no grades. However, the curriculum is somewhat similar to other schools (albeit with a different approach): languages, math, sciences, history, geography, biology, arts, music, and more.
But what is Montessori? Montessori is a philosophy that allows children to develop a degree of independence and self-discipline, setting a pattern for a lifetime of good habits and confidence. This method fosters independence, cooperation, and social interaction.
Lisbon Montessori School Tuition Fees
Casa Half Day: €5,850
Casa Full Day: €7,725
Elementary: €7,975
4. CAISL
Known as CAISL, Carlucci American International School of Lisbon has over 700 students of 57 different nationalities, from EC3 (3 years old) to 12th grade. The curriculum includes an American collegial preparatory leading to the American High School Diploma with the option of pursuing the International Baccalaureate Diploma (IB).
CAISL has a library media center with over 40,000 print items, fully equipped science laboratory classrooms, art, and music classrooms, a state-of-the-art 450-seat theater, cafeteria, and snack bar, 1400m2 covered gymnasium, as well as more than 10,000m2 of outdoor sports fields.
There are computers in all classrooms, with one computer per student in grades 1 to 5 in the classroom and one private laptop for each student in grades 6 through 12.
CAISL Tuition Fees
EC3 & 4 – Kindergarten €9,144
Grades 1 – 2 €11,408
Grades 3 – 5 €12,684
Grades 6 – 8 €14,408
Grades 9 – 12 €19,372
5. The British School of Lisbon
Located in the center of Lisbon, the British School of Lisbon is based on the English National Curriculum, one that is recognized all over the world. The school caters to those in early years (3 years of age) to Year 11.
The British School of Lisbon is chartered by The Schools Trust, a United Kingdom school governance body. These ensure the school meets high standards in academic performance, employment practice, facilities, and more.
Along with a rigorous curriculum with various classes, including arts, music, and more, the school places great importance on extracurricular activities.
The gorgeous Brown Island of the Azores, Sao Jorge features vivid green landscapes that contrast with the dark blue ocean surrounding it. This volcanic island is part of the Triangle Islands with Pico and Faial but is most well-known for its iconic fajas that make up quaint villages and natural pools.
From wonderful hiking trails and natural pools to discovering the cultural heritage of Sao Jorge, the brown island has so much to offer. Let’s take a look at the 7 best things to do in Sao Jorge, Azores so your next trip can be one to remember.
You might not associate coffee with the Azores, but that’s where you’re wrong! Sao Jorge is the home of the only coffee plantation in Europe. Located in Fajã dos Vimes, Cafe Nunes is owned by a family who opened the cafe at the plantation in 1997 and has some delicious coffee for you to try.
However, fun fact! Coffee was not naturally grown in the Azores. The locals believe that someone who visited Brazil brought back some coffee beans in the late 18th century. Since then, this family has been growing their own coffee plants and making a richly flavored coffee that is a must-try.
You can buy bags of coffee to take home, as well as visit the artisanal shop that sells handmade tapestries and carpets.
2. Hike stunning trails on the Azorean island
The beautiful island of Sao Jorge has some of the best hiking trails in the Azores. Exploring some of the island’s 10 hiking trails is a great experience for nature lovers. Make sure to hike on “official” trails that are taken care of by the Azores Tourism Broad.
These are properly maintained and signed with hiking markers throughout so people do not get lost. You can look up the official hike trails here.
Our favorite hike takes you to the Caldeira do Santo Cristo and is 9.5 km long, perfect for a morning activity. We also recommend the following hike trails: Serra do Topo (5.5 KM, 2h30) and Fajã de Além (4.7 KM, 3H).
3. Discover Velas
You can’t go to Sao Jorge without exploring Velas. Velas is a municipality in São Jorge where around 6,000 people live, meaning that most people on the island live in this village. Velas translates to sails and is rumored to pay homage to the sailing ships that have passed through the municipality.
Visit the sports marina that features a Sea Gate created in 1799. There are also many churches to explore, such as São Jorge Church, a 16th-century building, and Conceição church, located in a convent.
Velas also features a large Cultural Center, a modern building with an auditorium, a cinema, and a library.
If you come to Velas at the right time, you might be able to witness Azorean culture at its finest. A culture week occurs every summer in Velas, the main village of the island where local traditions and cultures are celebrated with local concerts and bullfights.
Velas, Sao Jorge. Photo by Pedrik (Flickr)
4. Explore the iconic fajas
Many Azorean islands feature fajas, but usually only a maximum of two in a single island. São Jorge tops any other island, featuring more than 40 of these!
If you are wondering what these are, Fajas are small plains located at sea level which were once created by lava flows.You must visit our favorite faja, Faja do Ouvidor, the one that locals go to the most.
It’s home to the Poca Simao Dias, the most amazing swimming hole on the island. The water is clear, and you can even jump onto the water from low rocks. However, make sure the tide is safe and that you can jump without getting hurt.
Photo by Karim Sakhibgareev (Unsplash)
5. Day trip to Faial
Luck you, Sao Jorge is part of the Triangle Islands with Pico and Faial. Each island has a unique culture, so we recommend taking at least one day to explore each.
Let’s start with Faial! The ferry from Sao Jorge (Calheta) to Faial (Horta) takes around 2h30 minutes.
Faial is nicknamed the Blue Island because of the hydrangeas in different shades of blue that span the landscapes of the island. 15,000 people live on this island of 67 square miles, making it a cosmopolitan island that still features activities for nature lovers.
But what to do when you get to Faial? We recommend exploring the city of Horta. The Horta marina has a large mural where sailors from around the world paint a section to symbolize their voyage.
Also, head to Peter Cafe Sport, an emblematic cafe on the island that thousands have passed through. There are also many quaint traditional churches that are beyond Insta-worthy.
If you are a nature lover, we recommend booking this hike with a professional to go down the caldeira. You can also walk around the crater which will take around 2 hours. In fact, Faial has a lot of beautiful trails to hike, such as this 10 Volcano trail that you can book here.
Do not miss the Capelinhos, the site of a volcano that erupted in 1958 on the western side of the island. This section of the island was only created 60 years ago after the eruption.
Known as the Black Island of the Azores, Pico is like the Hawaii of the Azores. Home to the highest mountain in Portugal, it features exotic vegetation, UNESCO-designated vineyards, and beautiful sea views. The ferry from Sao Jorge (Calheta) to Pico (Madalena) is only 1h45 minutes.
There is so much to do in Pico! Pico has some of the nicest seawater natural pools. We recommend the Poço da Maré do Verdugo, Ponta do Admoiro, as well as the classic Lajes do Pico Natural and São Roque do Pico pools.
Pico was once a whale hunting spot, although luckily, this practice has been outlawed. However, you can learn a lot about this time on the island at the Museu dos Baleeiros in Portuguese. The Whalers Museum is a must-see, close to Lajes Port. The museum is situated in three boathouses from the 19th century.
Hiking in Pico is also a great experience. The best hiking trails in Pico are Caminho das Lagoas (22 KM, 7 hours), Calheta do Nesquim (8.6 KM, 2h30), and Prainha do Norte (7.8 KM, 2h30).
We also recommend hiking up Mount Pico, the highest mountain in all of Portugal, if you are up for it. You can book a guided hike here, where you will also learn about the geology, fauna, and flora of the mount.
São Jorge features innovative cuisine made from local dairy, vegetable, and meat products. We recommend trying the traditional clams, cheese, limpets, cataplana, and any meat dish. Also, try out the Especies de Sao Jorge, a delicious local biscuit. If you are looking for the best restaurants in Sao Jorge to try out some Azorean food, here are our favorites:
Winters is a time that is too often neglected by tourists in Lisbon. Hoards of tourists travel to Lisbon in the Spring and Summer while not taking advantage of Portugal’s moderate winter season and more affordable prices. While it does occasionally rain and nights can get quite chilly, Lisbon’s winters do not compare to a lot of other European countries, being a lot milder.
The capital still boasts many activities to enjoy in the winter, many of which are crowded during the warmer months. On top of that, you get to experience Christmas in a brand-new city full of life, lights, and colors!
Winter is the coldest season in Lisbon, but the city still enjoys moderate temperatures compared to others in Europe. Even in the coldest month of January, temperatures range between 8° and 15°C (46-59°F). While it tends to rain quite a lot in December, the months of January and February tend to have less rain. When it does rain, it tends to rain hard for a few minutes and then stop, so you rarely deal with a constant drizzle.
Pasteis de Belem welcomes hundreds of thousands of visitors annually, a short walk from the Jeronimos Monastery, selling over 20,000 Portuguese custard tarts daily – the original ones. It is the perfect place for a cold winter afternoon.
While it first opened as a factory, today, it features a shop with take-out service and a cafe to sit down and enjoy the specialty of the Portuguese custard tart. Along with the traditional pastel de nata, visitors can also try out other specialties such as the English cake, Belem marmalade, king cake, and more.
While Pasteis de Belem is the best place for a Portuguese custard tart, why not make your very own winter food tour? Discover the best Portuguese custard tart spots and choose your favorite. The other best places in Lisbon for the pastel de nata are:
Wonderland Lisboa opens on December 1 until January 2 in Parque Eduardo VII in the center of Lisbon for its 7th edition. If you are a Christmas fanatic, this is the place for you. You will find a quaint Christmas market, a large Ferris wheel with warm cabins, an ice skating ring, and more.
At the market, you can find clothes, regional products, accessories, and more. There are a bunch of Portuguese food stalls, as well as international cuisine. Kids can take photos with Santa!
Photo by F Delventhal (Unsplash)
3. Fado show
What better way to celebrate saudade and emotion on a cozy winter night than with fado? With over a decade of experience, Fado in Chiado was one of the first places to host a daily live traditional fado show, accompanied by a guitar and viola, with two singers and a feminine and masculine voice for a full Portuguese experience.
The show is a little less than an hour in the Chiado district, and you will get to experience the melancholic vibes of the traditional musical genre of fado. Book this ticket to skip the line to this iconic cultural experience. Drinks are not included in the ticket price, but we recommend ordering a classic Port wine.
Cirque du Soleil meets ice skating, what’s more Christmassy than that? Starting December 22 until January 1 in Altice Arena, Cirque du Soleil Crystal is a new and unique experience that is set to sell out.
You will be able to watch world-class ice skaters and acrobats challenging the laws of gravity with outstanding acrobatics. This is rumored to blow the minds of those lucky enough to grab a ticket. A first-time show, Cirque du Soleil Crystal, is directed by Shana Carroll and Sebastien Soldevilla.
5. Beach stroll
Beaches in winter? Definitely in Portugal! You might not want to take a dip in the cold ocean, but winter days are often a great time to explore some beaches. Particularly on more gloomy and foggy days, Portuguese beaches have a unique charm that is like no other.
You will find people walking their dogs, reading, and taking long walks by the sea. However, do bring a warm jacket and maybe even some tea.
Luckily, Lisbon is located close to some amazing beaches. Costa da Caparica is only 20 minutes away, an area with some of the best beaches in Greater Lisbon. Another alternative is going to Cascais or Sintra, where there are fewer busy beaches with loads of space.
Costa da Caparica. Photo by Fabian Keller (Unsplash)
Lisbon has amazing wines that will warm you up on a cold rainy day. In fact, Portugal has some of the highest-quality wines in the world. Lisbon has wine bars at every corner with incredibly affordable prices where you can try out unique flavors, from port wine to red wine. This is the perfect activity for a cozy afternoon, where you can have wines paired with regional cheeses and bread.
For a premium experience, book this tasting, where you’ll get to taste five different artisanal kinds of cheese, sausages, and ham, as well as five Portuguese wines.
For a super cheap option, visit the Wines of Portugal Tasting Room in Terreiro do Paço. This is a large modern tasting room with shared tables and wine starting at €1.
One of the best ways to see Lisbon in the winter is on the number 28 tram. Although the tram is a public transport service, due to the places it rides through, think of it as an affordable tourist tour. This way, you will also be sheltered from the rain and cold!
This tram line connects Martim Moniz with Campo do Ourique. The tram stops in popular tourist districts such as Alfama, Baixa, Estrela, and grace.
In a traditional yellow tram, you will ride a scenic route through Lisbon’s narrow and steep streets, the perfect fall morning in Lisbon.
We recommend riding the train early in the morning to avoid crowds. Make sure to beware of pickpocketers!
Tram 28. Photo by Portuguese Gravity (Unsplash)
Christmas in Portugal
Christmas is probably the biggest and most important holiday in Portugal. The streets of Lisbon are lit up with Christmas lights, people gather at the best bakeries to buy Bolo Rei (King’s Cake), and families spend precious time together.
While Portugal is a predominantly Catholic country, Christmas is not all about religion. Many families that are not necessarily Catholic or even Christian will celebrate Christmas as a way to spend time together.
There are two main events: the night of the 24th of December and the 25th. In Portugal, it’s customary for families to gather for dinner on the 24th and open presents that night, sometimes waiting for midnight. The next day, Christmas Day, is often more laid back than the night before with a traditional Christmas lunch. In Portugal, the night of the 24th is usually the most important.
Photo by Gareth Harper (Unsplash)
Lisbon Winter: What to Pack
While winters in Portugal are not as cold as elsewhere, you will still need to pack accordingly. Here is a list of items to pack for Lisbon in the winter:
Jeans
T-shirts
Long-sleeve sweaters
Warm hoodies
Scarf
Warm shoes and/or sneakers
Boots
Hat
Sunglasses
Sunscreen (the sun is strong even in winter)
Warm jacket
Raincoat with hood
Does it snow in Portugal?
To the surprise of many tourists, it does snow in Portugal! However, you won’t find any snow in Lisbon, as it only snows in a few areas in mountainous zones up north. The most common place to see snow in Portugal is in the Serra da Estrela mountains. While it might snow sporadically in other areas, the snow never tends to stick.
Serra da Estrela is the highest mountain range in all of continental Portugal and is 100 kilometers long and 30 kilometers wide.
At the peak of the winter season, there is around 114 mm of snow. Serra da Estrela even boasts its own ski resort!
Still, as temperatures warm globally, it is snowing less every year. Furthermore, if you are expecting an Italian ski resort, think again. While skiing and other ski sports are possible in Serra da Estrela, the amount and quality of snow are not the same as in other countries.
You’re moving to Portugal and thinking of bringing your car with you? This might not be a bad idea. The cost of living in Portugal might be relatively affordable, but car prices in Portugal are actually quite high in comparison to other European countries. You might find that your exact car will cost you a lot more in Portugal, even if you buy the same one second-hand.
However, there is a lot to consider when importing a car to Portugal. What taxes do you have to pay? Do you need to pay any at all? What documents do you need? Is the process the same if you are coming from outside the European Union (EU)?
Let’s take a look at everything you need to know about importing a car to Portugal. Keep in mind that in order to drive on Portuguese roads, you must purchase car insurance.
There are two main taxes you might need to pay when importing a car to Portugal: VAT and ISV (tax on vehicles). The VAT is currently at 23% in mainland Portugal, and the ISV is usually a maximum of 10%.
However, not everyone needs to pay taxes when importing their car to Portugal. Portuguese citizens that emigrated to another country for more than 6 months do not need to pay taxes on importing a vehicle.
This is not only the case for Portuguese people. If you want to live as a Portuguese resident, you might not also need to pay taxes on importing the vehicle. However, you must be 18, be able to prove the car has been in your name for at least 6 months prior, and have lived in that previous country for at least 6 months.
Still, if you are coming from outside the EU, you might still need to pay VAT.
Everyone needs to pay a tax, the IUC or Imposto Unico de Circulacao that you pay in order to circulate on Portuguese roads.
If you must pay taxes, you must do this within 20 business days from the vehicle’s date of entry in Portugal. Also, remember that only one vehicle may be imported tax-free per person once every ten years.
Documents for Tax Exemption
To make sure you are eligible for a tax exemption for importing your car to Portugal, you will be asked for:
Proof of residency (at least 6 months)
Car documentation with you as the owner (at least 6 months)
Additional proof that you resided in a foreign country, such as rental payments, bills, etc.
Moving to Portugal: Shipping Car or Driving to Portugal?
If you live somewhere in Europe, you might find that a fun road trip is a great alternative to shipping your car to Portugal. We recommend calculating the costs of this drive, including fuel, possible hotel stays, and more. However, for the most part, this is likely to be cheaper than shipping your car.
Shipping your car to Portugal from a European country can cost around 1,000 euros. If you are looking to ship from the US, it can cost anywhere between 2,500 and 4,000 euros.
Photo by Samuele Errico Piccarini (Unsplash)
What documents do you need to import a car to Portugal?
Generally, these are the other documents you will need throughout the process of importing a car to Portugal:
Vehicle Documents
Transaction declaration: Proof that you bought the car with the dates
IMT Form 9: Approves car after inspection
Copy of foreign vehicle registration
Original receipt of purchase showing taxes paid
Certificate of roadworthiness: After a technical inspection at an IMT-approved garage, this certificate shows the car is safe to drive
Certificate of Conformity (COC): Document issued by the manufacturer stating the characteristics of the car and proving it meets legal requirements
Certificate of Homologation: Certificate to confirm that vehicle is of a recognized type in Portugal and that the characteristics in the COC are true
Fiscal document: This will either be a fiscal certificate or a tax clearance form from customs, depending on your situation and vehicle detail
Personal Documents
Driver’s license
Identity document
Proof of residency
Taxpayer identification card
Certificate that proves residence cancellation in the former country
Step-by-step Guide to Importing a Car to Portugal
1. Register at Portal das Financas online
If you are moving to Portugal, this first step will be needed all around. You should register on the Portal das Financas, the online platform for the tax department. When you register, you will enter your NIF number (Portuguese tax identification number). A password will then be mailed to you, and this can take a few days.
2. Certificate of Conformity and homologation
Make sure you have the Certificate of Conformity, the document issued by the manufacturer stating the characteristics of the car and proving it meets legal requirements. You will need to take it to the IMT and have it homologated, a free process that can take a few days.
You will then be given a document that says your car and its characteristics are valid to what has been described in the COC.
3. Book inspection
The inspection makes sure your vehicle is under safe conditions and is mandatory. Depending on your car, it is usually done yearly. You should take your car to an IMT-approved garage, and they will then help you fill out the IMT model 9 form. The inspection is not free of charge and can cost around 100 euros.
4. Fill out the DAV
Head to your Portal das Financas and fill out the DAV online. The DAV is the Declaracao Aduaneira de Veiculos, meaning the Customs Declaration of Vehicles. The portal shows you how to fill it out correctly, and you must do so within 20 days of arriving.
You can use your car, even if a decision is still being made on your eligibility for tax-free importation. You can also drive with a foreign license. Just make sure to have a copy of the DAV and the cancellation of your residence certificate from the previous country.
5. Pay the DUC from customs
Once you have entered Portugal, you also have 20 days to pay the DUC. The DUC is the Documento Unico de Cobranca that you get from customs that says how much you need to pay for the DAV. You will find this in the Financas Portal within a few days of filling out the DAV. Just make sure to pay it within 20 days.
6. Pay the VAT and ISV taxes
If you find out you are exempt, you do not need to pay these taxes. If that’s not the case, head to a local office of the Financas and pay what you owe. Once your payment is confirmed, you will get a Portuguese license number!
7. Apply for your Portuguese car document
Head to the IMT with your Model 9 form, any inspection papers, the proof of tax payments, any car documentation, including the COC, and so on. With all your important documents at hand, submit these to the IMT office.
After submitting all these documents, you have 60 days to ask for your Portuguese car document, known as the Documento Unico Automovel. The document costs around 75 euros.
8. Officially register your car in Portugal
We’re almost done! Although you already applied for your documento unico, you will only get it a few weeks after registering your car. Head to your local civil registry conservatory with your documents to register your vehicle. Registration costs around 50 to 60 euros.
9. Pay the last tax – IUC
Everyone in Portugal pays the Imposto Unico de Circulacao (IUC). This tax allows you to drive on Portuguese roads, and the value depends on your vehicle. You have 90 days to make this payment. This is paid every year. For a regular-sized car registered after 2007, this should cost you around €70 a year.
10. Change your license plate in Portugal
Changing your license plate is your last step. You already have your Portuguese license number, now it’s time to get it on your car’s plates. You can get these made at local shops! After this final step, everything is in order!
Foreign Driving License in Portugal
If you want to exchange your foreign driving license for a Portuguese one, instead of getting a whole new Portuguese one, this process is simple. You can submit an application online and will have to pay a small fee, less than 40 euros.
However, exchanging some driving licenses from certain countries in Portugal obliges you to take a practical driving test.
Ismael Sousa, non-binary, gay, and queer. This is how this 32-year-old identifies. But if stating this position in certain urban environments has already become more acceptable, doing it in a land where cultural, social, and demographic challenges prevail is not without its difficulties.
We talk in general about the Portuguese interior, and particularly about the Dão Lafões region in Portugal’s inland center, the land where he was born and lives. Here, we interviewed Ismael at his workplace, at Casa do Povo cultural space in Santa Cruz da Trapa, district of Viseu.
In a vibrant conversation, Ismael told us about his life, the struggle of the LGBTQIA+ community in the interior of Portugal, discrimination, and his personal relationship as a believer with a more conservative position of the Catholic Church.
Tell us about yourself. Who is Ismael?
Ismael is a 32-year-old person, born in São Pedro do Sul. He is a dreamer full of ambitions, a friendly person with an identity that he restructured and that today he is this person who presents himself here.
How has our land influenced your life?
São Pedro do Sul, where I was born, is a small town, very rural. Our land showed me this. This rurality of being in contact with agriculture and seeing the roots of life gave me a particular perspective on the world.
It made me see that the world begins here but that we cannot stop here. This paradoxical way that our land also influenced me because it showed me that we live in a tiny niche and that there is more beyond our mountains.
Regarding the affirmation of your identity. What challenges did you feel in your social and work life living in the Portuguese interior?
I came out two years ago after taking it to a level where I felt that people would respect me for who I am, not only for my sexuality. I first came out to my mother and then publicly in a television interview.
That day I didn’t dare to be in our city to face people, so I ran away to Viseu, where I lived. When I came to Santa Cruz da Trapa, I was afraid to face the stares in the church choir. But that’s when I noticed that people already respected me and that my sexual orientation wouldn’t change that, fortunately.
The process back home was easy, apart from the occasional case. Outside here, it is easier and more difficult at the same time. To be queer, even in Viseu, is still to be the victim of homophobic stares.
My personality, the way I am, and the way I dress are still odd to many. People point, talk, and behave homophobically. So sometimes it is difficult to leave here, where at least they already know me and are used to it.
How do those discriminatory looks make you feel?
Insecurity. It makes me feel like I’m doing something wrong. But on the other hand, that’s what gives me the strength to want to change and cut ties with the old mentality.
I often say that I wish twenty years from now that someone similar to me could have the openness and the safe space that I didn’t have. Even if these attacks hurt me, I always think I am opening a path for someone in the future so that other people don’t have to go through what I am going through.
If that happens, it is a sign that I have done something positive. And this is often what drives me. It is also an obligation of mine. If I dress this way, it’s because I identify with it.
I don’t do anything to upset others, but only to be true to myself and make a difference so that people realize that we don’t all have to be the same. Everyone can be whatever they want to be. This is my path, to make people understand that.
It is common to hear that Portugal is gay-friendly. Do you agree with this?
Yes and no. Yes, because we don’t see as many attacks on LGBTQIA+ people as in other countries, and also because we have some laws that defend us. However, there is still a lot of discriminatory thinking.
And we Portuguese suffer more than those who come from outside. Because those who come from abroad come but go, but we, instead, are a daily reality.
What do you think can be done for better acceptance of the LGBTQIA+ community in the Portuguese interior?
Persistence is the key. For example, if we are going to do a jazz music session and we have twenty people in the audience, we think it went wrong.
But if we repeat it, people get used to coming, to it existing and becoming part of their lives. So they start to accept it. Persistence is definitely the keyword.
Any real-life story of discrimination that you would like to share?
The day I came out publicly, I received a message from a stranger on Facebook saying that he admired me but could never do that because that would mean being kicked out of my house. It is tough to read these words.
Another case I have been following is of a young trans person who does not identify with his male body but has not yet started the transition process. This person is a constant victim of violence at school, and the actions against this in the school environment are still insufficient.
Some people oppress their orientation not to lose what they have. Others don’t leave their homes so as not to experience violence.
We usually think that the aggressor is only the one who beats, but the aggressor is also the one who does nothing, condoning this violence. We should all step in and help in case anyone sees any case of discrimination.
What is discrimination for you? Have you ever felt it in your professional life?
Discrimination is when one looks at the person, but they don’t look at their abilities. Discrimination is not giving opportunities to those who think differently because you have always done things a certain way.
As for me, I would like to say no, that I had never suffered discrimination, but that would be a lie. I suffered discrimination indirectly by feeling that my abilities and ideas were not valued in favor of other, more absurd ones.
What is your job?
Right now, my job is to be in the cultural center with its activities. I am also finishing a course as an event organization technician, which is what I did for many years but didn’t have certification for.
My work here at the cultural center is just beginning. But it is something I want to do in the sense of giving more culture. The program could be called just that, to give more culture. Because it is a cultural center that, before the pandemic, was very busy, but with the pandemic, everything went backward. Now we are slowly restarting.
I aim to have this house weekly with people coming to the theater, cinema, music concerts, and exhibitions. To try to bring a little of what culture is on its various fronts and bring the difference to Santa Cruz da Trapa. And to become cultured doesn’t mean simply to get to know things, but to get into the habit of merely going. Something that in our land is not very deep-rooted.
What are the challenges of culture in our land?
Encouraging people to come.
How can you encourage people to participate in cultural events?
When I was a young boy, I hated going to museums. I found them boring. It wasn’t a space where you could talk loudly or do anything. What I often say is the need to create different ways to visit a museum.
You can take children and get them used to going to the museum. But not just going for the sake of going, but looking at a painting and asking them how it makes them feel. And the activity can be just this. Arriving, setting up a table around a painting, sculpture, projection, and creating a debate.
You have to create this movement in museums. It is necessary to create movement in cultural centers. You must develop and train for culture and work for what the masses want and don’t want.
Because if I go to see something I want, I don’t challenge myself. But I’m forming myself when I see something I don’t want. It’s this way. It’s taking the movement to galleries, cultural centers, and museums. It’s creating activities to attract people.
This is what we need to do. We have an underused movie theater in our city, with the excuse that nobody goes. But nobody goes because nothing is done. It has to be done even if nobody goes. Eventually, people will create the habit and start appearing.
How do you position yourself as a believer concerning a more conservative position of the Church regarding homosexuality?
The Church is an essential milestone in my life. I attended the seminary in Fornos de Algodres for ten years. I studied theology, and it made me see the world differently. For many years I repressed my sexuality because of what the Church told us.
Until when in 2006, the most hated Pope in contemporary history, Benedict 16, released an encyclical called “God is love,” which shows that God is just that. He is the mother’s lap, where everything is accepted.
I thought of myself as gay. The part about becoming queer and non-binary is something that came later, over time. I started reading that encyclical, and when he wrote it, I didn’t understand it. Years later, I reread it.
I, too, like the masses, did not like him. But in 2010, I was in an audience with the Pope, and his presence marked me for life. It made me feel a lot of peace. And I started to need to know that person and began to read what the media was not reporting.
For me, he was a great pope and a great theologian. The encyclical that he wrote is a simple message that God is love.
God does not punish, and he cannot because he only loves. If the Catholic Church doesn’t accept homosexuality, it’s not doing God’s representation because God accepts me as I am.
I live in the way of love and do what Christ said when he came to earth, including the commandment to love God and love your neighbor. If the Church does not love me because of my homosexuality and labels me as a sinner, it is not doing its job.
How is supporting the LGBTQIA+ cause consistent with your religious or political beliefs?
Generalization is one of the biggest mistakes. Just because you are homosexual doesn’t mean you are not a believer. I make my way and train people in that sense.
Having twenty people in my choir, religious and some in their eighties, and accepting my homosexuality, is a good path, showing how generalizations are wrong. Just because I’m gay, I don’t have to be labeled as having a political party.
Nobody has to have a political party. This lack of freedom sometimes doesn’t fit in people’s heads. It’s the same as thinking that a priest must be from the CDS (Christian Democratic Right party).
He doesn’t necessarily have to! We have to look at politics differently. The 25th of April gave us that political freedom.
How do you feel about the growth of “Chega”?
I often say that many crazy people arrive at positions they shouldn’t. Populism is a problem of nations. It leads people to become blind. André Ventura was lucky to tell the masses what they wanted to hear.
The big problem is in the way he wants to solve these problems. That’s the big mistake. I get worried when I see “Chega” taking such proportion, and even more in our small town to see that there are “Chega” candidates.
I think about what we are doing. People are not used to politics. Politics was never taught and still isn’t. People vote for parties because their parents voted for those same parties, not considering the proposed measures.
The leader of the “Chega” party uses religion a lot, also to reach illiterate people. Illiteracy is still a big crisis in Portugal. Not only the fact of being able to read but not being able to understand.
It scares me its growth, and I think that it is the responsibility of all of us to fight against it and show that the way to solve particular problems can be different.
Do you feel a united LGBTQIA+ community in the Portuguese countryside?
This year I went to Pride in Viseu for the first time because several circumstances made me feel the need to go to the march. I’m going to tell you about a particular episode.
At the beginning of September, I went to a gala with high heels, and at the end, I went to a disco where I still had them on. There was a group of fools who decided to make fun of me. It didn’t bother me, as I got used to this, but it bothered my friends.
I needed to talk about it and go to the march and say, “no, it’s time for me to show my face too.” I think the parade is for everybody, not just LGBTQIA+ people.
Because you may have someone in your family who doesn’t have the strength to go. You have to represent and fight for tomorrow so that if I have an LGBTQIA+ child, they don’t have to suffer repression.
The march is a demonstration of our rights. Those with a public voice have to use it and not think only of their rights but of the rights of others. And this is what bothers me, those who are comfortable and don’t think about others. And this is why the community has no unity.
People don’t relate to each other. LGBTQIA+ people need to understand that we don’t have to love everybody, but we have to respect each other, to come together in the sense that we are fighting for ourselves. And to show people who we really are, not what they think we are.
And in the interior of Portugal, only the big metropolises are different. In the rest of the country, there is still a lot of fear of coming out, so there isn’t a big community.
And there isn’t because a door is closed when someone tries to look for someone to help them. People never have time. The lack of time is a problem. I didn’t have that support when I needed to know myself better.
When someone asks me for help, I have to help them so they don’t feel alone because loneliness is what kills most, especially among people in the community.
You have been studying the history of the LGBTQIA+ community in Portugal. Are there any episodes you would like to share? Do you have any famous icons that have inspired you?
Yes, there is a historical event that I am inquisitive about learning more about: the ball of Graçã in 1924. There was a Carnival ball in Lisbon where a hundred and something men were seized because they were dressed as women.
And I started looking for information about that, but there isn’t any. I got there because of Botto, one of the openly LGBTQIA+ authors.
As for icons, I started reading a lot of LGBTQIA+ authors because of Al Berto, a Portuguese author from Sines, whose writing I met at a social gathering. I identified with his writing a lot! When I first read one of his texts, I thought I was the one writing it.
Still, if one personality has influenced me the most and I have with me forever, it is António Variações. He allowed me to be who I am.
When I look at him, I think, “this man dared to destroy paradigms, and mentalities without fear, being himself.” He marked me for life, and I marked him on me with a tattoo of him on my back.
Living in the interior of Portugal. What advice would you give to someone younger who is now asserting their identity as a queer person in our land?
Always be yourself. Create your personality. Find out who you are, and don’t be afraid of what others will say. If this young person is scared of what others will say, I have got something to tell you: people will criticize you no matter what.
So, find your own soul. Don’t be afraid if you feel at peace with who you are. Diversity is so beautiful. And being part of that diversity is beautiful. Self-love is the best thing that can happen to us.
Look at this. Imagine a climb, it may take a long time to get here, but I have one thing to say, the view from up here is fantastic.
If you're interested in finding out the latest details about the Golden Visa program and want to take advantage of the new opportunities. Signup for a live Q&A webinar with an expert from Holborn Assets that will answer all your questions. The event is scheduled for May 23 at 6 PM Lisbon Time (2 PM EST). The live webinar will cover the following:
The latest news of the Golden Visa program with an overview on the new rules
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Prime Minister Antonio Costa has said that Portugal plans to end the Golden Visa scheme. In a press conference at the Web Summit in Lisbon, the PM said that the 10-year-old scheme has fulfilled its role and that it is “no longer justifiable to maintain” the scheme “at this moment.”
He said that the government is first looking further into the Golden Visa. “When we are evaluating, we look at all options. And after completing the evaluation, we make decisions, and these options become decisions. At this point, we are evaluating whether the Golden Visas make sense.”
A decision will be announced when the evaluation is completed.
Portugal’s Golden Visa has attracted 6.5 billion euros in investment, mostly from China, Brazil, and South Africa, with most of the investments made into real estate (92%). 11,180 residence permits have been provided to wealthy individuals in exchange for this investment.
Created in 2012, the Portugal Golden Visa allows non-EU citizens to qualify for a residency permit and eventually a passport in the country through investments.
The visa has several benefits to applicants, such as free travel within the Schengen area without a visa, family reunification, the ability to work in Portugal, tax incentives, and its path to citizenship.
Reuters points out that the Golden Visa has been heavily criticized in Portugal for increasing house prices and rents.
The European Commission has actually already called on EU governments to end these national golden visa schemes as they are also considered a security risk.
Costa also spoke about the new digital nomad visa, which allows Portugal to continue to be attractive to foreigners. The PM said that Portugal seeks to remain an “open country where is welcome and can develop their life projects.”
With the digital nomad visa, remote workers can apply for a one-year temporary stay visa or a residency permit that can be renewed for up to five years. Applicants need to make at least €2,800 per month, four times the minimum wage in Portugal.
Many are also moving to Portugal due to the reduction in income tax granted to new foreign residents through the Non-Habitual Resident (NHR) Tax Regime. NHRs are taxed at a flat rate of 20% on their income instead of up to 48% under Portugal’s progressive tax.
Lisbon is one of the best European cities to visit during Winter. Temperatures are quite moderate, between a pleasant 8° and 15°C (46-59°F). However, it does rain around 90mm of rain per month, which on certain days can ruin your plans. Fortunately, Lisbon hosts a ton of shows and musicals that will not only shelter you from the train but also makes for a unique experience. Let’s be real, what feels more like Christmas than heading to the theater for a heartwarming show?
Let’s take a look at the 5 best shows and musicals in Lisbon for this Winter 2022.
Starting October 29, you can head to Teatro Armando Cortez in Lisbon for a wonderful adaptation of Wizard of Oz. Catering to all ages, it tells the magical story of Dorothy’s adventures in rural America with music, dance, plastic arts, and audiovisual elements.
This is the story of Dorothy’s adventures when she was a little girl from a rural and inhospitable area in America. You will navigate this journey with her, meeting the new friends she makes along the way.
Teatro Armando Cortez is a large theater with over 300 seats, equipped with a large stage, dressing rooms, a foyer with a bar, a cloakroom, and more.
2. Cirque du Soleil Crystal
Starting December 22 until January 1 in Altice Arena, Cirque du Soleil Crystal is a new and unique experience that is set to sell out. Imagine Cirque du Soleil meets ice skating, the perfect evening for a Christmas feel!
You will be able to watch world-class ice skaters and acrobats challenging the laws of gravity with outstanding acrobatics. A first-time show, Cirque du Soleil Crystal is directed by Shana Carroll and Sebastien Soldevilla.
We recommend booking tickets as soon as possible as they are likely to sell out!
3. CATS Musical in Lisbon
The musical production of CATS is returning to Lisbon this winter from February 14 to 19 in Campo Pequeno. It has been almost a decade since CATS was performed in Portugal, with the original version of the musical finally returning.
Andrew Llyod Webber’s musical CATS was adapted from T.S. Elliott’s Book “Old Possum’s Book of Practical Cats.” The musical tells the story of the meeting of the Jellicle cats at the Jellicle ball. This is the perfect musical for children and adults alike, bringing the whole family together for a night of fun entertainment.
4. Swan Lake Ballet
The Swan Lake Ballet returns to Lisbon from January 6 to 8, 2023, in Coliseu Lisboa. Considered one of the most beautiful ballets of classic dance, Swan Lake was first performed in public in Moscow in 1877. It highlights the duality of good and evil through the symbols of the white and black swan.
The ballet is presented in four acts, with music by Pyotr Tchaikovsky, libretto by Vladimir Begitchev, and choreography by Marius Petipa and Lev Ivanov. Every detail of this 2-hour ballet is carefully curated, from the outfits to the figurines.
5. Fado in Chiado
With over a decade of experience, Fado in Chiado was one of the first places to host a daily live traditional fado show, accompanied by a guitar and viola, with two singers, and a feminine and masculine voice for a full Portuguese experience.
The show is a little less than an hour in the Chiado district, and you will get to experience the melancholic vibes of the traditional musical genre of fado. Book this ticket to skip the line to this iconic cultural experience. Drinks are not included in the ticket price, but we recommend ordering a classic Port wine.
To most, sardines are nutritious oily fish that are filled with omega-3 fatty acids. To the Portuguese, they are so much more. A cultural symbol, an art form, inspiration for art, a part of our language, the list goes on. However, while for decades, the sardine was mostly celebrated for its freshness, it is today even more widely consumed in a can for conservation. You can find flavors of all kinds and originality, from spicy sardines to tomato riched aromas.
Despite the Portuguese’s love for sardines, most that visit us are not aware of all its facets. Let’s take a look at 7 interesting facts about sardines in Portugal so that you can better understand this national icon the next time you come to visit.
1. The sardine population is declining
While once every household had access to sardine fishing and the resource was abundant, this is no longer the truth. Today, the Portuguese sardine industry is declining as this fish population is also decreasing. This is predominantly due to climate change and overfishing.
Portugal is, in fact, a long way from reaching sustainable populations of the sardine stock it shares with Spain. This led the country to join the International Council for the Exploration of the Sea (ICES), a marine science organization that promotes sustainability in oceans and fishing.
Due to the declining sardine population, industries and consumers are looking for Portuguese alternatives such as the carapau (horse mackerel) and cavala (chub mackerel).
When you think of delicious fish, you often think of it as being fresh, fished that same week, and picked up from your local market. That’s the way many in Portugal still consume their fish and seafood. However, that’s not always the case for sardines, and this doesn’t make the product any less delicious.
But how did canned sardines come about in Portugal? Let’s go through a bit of history. Canning fish in Portugal only became a method of preserving fish in Portugal in the 19th century. Ramirez, the first canning company in Portugal founded Vila Real de Santo Antonio and began packing sardines, tuna, and mackerel into tin cans in 1865.
In the decades that followed, two world wars made it so that Portugal expanded its production of canned sardines as it was a long-lasting and nutritious food for soldiers. BY 1950, Portugal had over 400 canneries.
However, today, this process is not only a method of preserving fish but has also turned into Portuguese art and Portuguese delicacy. You will find this delicacy of canned sardines beautifully presented, with artistic tins and with a wide array of flavors, such as garlic, hot sauce, tomatoes, and more.
Canned products at Loja das Conservas in Lisbon. Photo by Francesbean (Flickr)
3. Sardines are the highlight of the yearly Santos Populares celebrations
Sardines are incredibly ingrained in Portuguese culture, particularly in popular festivities. The most important in Portugal is Saint Anthony’s on June 13 where the largest festival in Portugal takes place in the capital of Lisbon. The smell of grilled sardines fills the streets of Bairro Alto and other areas, with people bringing tables outside, sharing other delicacies, playing music, and drinking beer.
But the celebration is not just for that one day! The whole of June is the month of Santos Populares, with parties all over the country. In Lisbon, it is mostly on June 12, while in Porto, it’s on June 23 when Sao Joao is celebrated. Regardless of where you are in the country this month, expect sardines to be the main staple.
4. Sardines are extremely healthy
Are sardines healthy? Yes! While not all Portuguese foods are super healthy – like the francesinha, this isn’t the case for sardines. Sardines are filled with tons of nutrients that can be hard to find elsewhere.
They are a source of omega-3 fatty acids, nearly 15% of your daily recommended vitamin B2, almost 25% of your recommended daily niacin, and are filled with vitamin B12.
These nutrients aren’t just some meaningless part of your diet. They help improve the nervous system, boost metabolism, and improve cognitive function.
5. The ceramic art of sardines is a part of Portuguese culture
Sardines are also quite literally Portuguese art. The 19th-century Portuguese artist Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro is famous for creating ceramics of this Portuguese symbol, the sardine. His company is still in operation selling these, and other generation artists have created illustrations and ceramics with the sardine. You will find several versions in ceramic shops all over the country, especially in the Silver Coast town of Caldas da Rainha, Bordallo Pinheiro’s place of origin.
6. Portuguese expressions often mention sardines
The Portuguese language is highly impacted by cultural symbols, including the precious sardine. The iconic fado singer Amalia Rodrigues would even mention sardines in her songs, highlighting their cultural significance.
But it goes further than that! A lot of Portuguese expressions mention sardines. Keep in mind that when translated, many Portuguese expressions make absolutely no sense. They are not meant to be translated at all, but we will do so for the sake of knowledge.
“A mulher e a sardinha querem-se pequenina” – translates to “a woman and a sardine are meant to be small”. This alludes to the fact that smaller sardines are thought to be more delicious and that Portuguese women were said to be short. The “small” is not about size or weight at all.
Another famous expression that speaks to the Portuguese “glass half empty” mentality is “cada um puxa a brasa à sua sardinha.” This expression translates to “each one pushes the coal to their own sardine,” meaning people only look out for their own interests.
7. The Fantastic World Of Portuguese Sardines is a unique experience
Known as O Mundo Fantastico das Sardinhas, this place takes the Portuguese love for sardines to another level. With stores all over Portugal, the Fantastic World of Sardines takes you on a journey of the world of canned sardines. This place almost feels circus-themed in the best way possible. Filled with colors, lights, and canned sardines decorating its interior, it is bound to attract everyone, especially children.
On top of that, you can purchase canned sardines of all types. From spicy sardine cans to your regular ones, there’s a can for everyone’s taste. You can also find sardine cans named “1927” that have been canned in the way they used to, decades ago.
O Mundo Fantástico da Sardinha Portuguesa at Lisbon Airport. Photo by Sharon Hahn Darlin (Flickr)
There is no better plan for a good weekend than traveling and staying overnight in the land where Beira Alta ends and Beira Baixa begins. Despite their different names, these two regions share many similarities, which is why many people refer to this piece of land as only “Beiras.”
Whoever gets in the car and drives through these mountains brings home a new meaning of the word relaxation. There is an indescribable sense of serenity in those territories. And I, who like words so much, have a hard time finding the right ones to convey the same feelings when I glimpse an infinite meadow or stumble upon a historic village still walled in.
And the same can be said for the flavors and aromas that float there and how pleased I am when my palate contemplates them. Namely the lamb stew, the cheese from Serra da Estrela, or the “requeijão” —cottage cheese — wrapped in pumpkin jam.
If there are still romantics left in our world, you will surely find part of their soul around every corner on any road in this part of Portugal. I speak of the joy one gets from the harmony of that land that the hustle and bustle of the city do not allow us to have.
In this itinerary, the visitors should include many historic villages worth visiting. These include the landscapes of the highest mountain on the Portuguese mainland, Serra da Estrela. A part of Portugal immensely devastated by the last summer’s wildfires and that needs tourists, more than ever, to revitalize its economy.
Still, for now, this article aims to take you to the town of Celorico da Beira.
The history behind the Castles
This historical village is not only important locally, but its history is directly linked to a broader one, namely in several episodes of the Portuguese nation. And it’s in the same municipality that one can find nearby towns such as Trancoso and Linhares da Beira. Two villages with centenary castles and walls that protected the Portuguese from Castilian onslaughts.
But like many other villages, the history of Celorico da Beira goes back to times even before the nation’s foundation. The visitor can find this in the evidence of Roman occupation in its surroundings, with one of the oldest Roman roads in the country. Namely, the ancient roman road built in the 1st century B.C. can be found between the parishes of São Pedro and Santa Maria and Vila Boa do Mondego.
On these roads, using one’s imagination, one can hear the noise from the hard work of those who placed those stones, opening paths that until then had never been opened. And going forward a few centuries, one can also feel their destruction as the rocks were thrown against the barbarians or simply stolen by people locals to build their houses as the Middle Ages began.
Although it lacks historical documentation, Romans, barbarians, and Muslims will have passed there, with the last ones entering the Iberian Peninsula in 711 BC.
Then, with the foundation of Portugal in the 12th century, the Christians reconquered the territories, namely the first king of Portugal, D. Afonso Henriques. He was the one who also ordered the construction of fortresses in Celorico as well as in Trancoso.
This defense investment would still carry on in the 13th century, during D Dinis’ reign. And in Celorico, this is visible in the existence of the Castle’s keep. To those who visit it, look at the small balcony, and observe the famous machicolations, where archers would spurt arrows or even boil oil against the enemy. A dangerous time to be on the opponent’s side.
But the significance of these castles goes further than one may expect, as it’s linked to a critical moment in Portugal’s history, the Battle of Aljubarrota. From 1383 to 1385, Portugal had a severe dynastic crisis with no king to govern the country. As such, taking this advantage, John I of Castile entered Portuguese lands to conquer us.
He entered the south while some of his troops penetrated through another border further north. But now imagine a stampede of knights entering Portuguese lands, thinking they could easily conquer us, only to have their hopes crushed upon finding three important defensive castles and the enemy there ready to fight.
I’m mentioning the castles of Celorico da Beira, Linhares da Beira, and Trancoso. The local governors let their rivalries aside and joined forces to defeat the Castilians. The Battle of Trancoso in 1385 would be crucial in not only defeating Castilians but also as a kind of rehearsal for the Battle of Aljubarrota. A moment when Portugal defeated Castile and consecrated king of Portugal D. João I Mestre de Avis. This king would become famous for having been the father of Infante D. Henrique, the most crucial figure at the beginning of the maritime discoveries.
Thus, if we stop to think about the broader influence that Portugal had in the world’s history, namely in the process of globalization, maybe we will look at Celorico da Beira differently. We will perhaps walk through its streets feeling the weight of history that goes beyond a mere medieval castle lost in the Portuguese countryside.
Where to taste the Serra da Estrela cheese
But even those who may be unaware of this more profound history, at least will not miss the call of another tourist attraction.
On the slopes of the Serra da Estrela, one can see the Bordaleira breed of sheep spreading across the land, providing us humans with some of the best cheese you can taste, eat, and cry for more in Portugal. The Serra da Estrela cheese!
It’s here in Celorico da Beira that Estrellacoop — the leading cooperative of the Serra da Estrela’s cheese producers— has its headquarters and where the authenticity of the cheese is attested by the famous PDO (Protected Designation of Origin).
And it’s in this town where one can visit the Museum of the Farmer and the Cheese and the “Solar do Queijo,” where this delicacy appears on the main posters as its icon. One can learn more about this tradition while seeing old pictures telling the famous cheese story.
On this mountain, we still see shepherds taking care of their flock, spending their days from sunrise to sunset going up and down the hill. It is an old vocation that is hard to find elsewhere but still prevalent in this part of Portugal.
But one doesn’t need to visit the museum to feel the cheese perfume. It’s enough to wander around Celorico da Beira streets, where cheese can be bought at a reasonable price.
And for those who are not such big lovers of very flavored cheese, you are always invited to try the “requeijão” — curd cheese— that white cheese typically eaten with any type of jam.
All this while wandering through the streets of Celorico, with the Serra da Estrela in the distance. And if you’re lucky to meet some locals, they will not fail to know how to welcome you. Which in Portugal almost always means being invited to sit at a table.
In this region, this welcome comes with the taste of buttery cheese, which one can easily eat with a spoon while drinking a glass of good red wine and taking bites of corn, rye, or wheat bread. These are some of the ingredients for happiness that can never be missing from a Portuguese table.
And while we are enjoying the cheese, it is important to know that we are eating something that, in 2024, will apply to become a UNESCO World Intangible Heritage Site. A curious name is intangible, perhaps because we can’t resist its presence for long, and the cheese quickly melts in our mouths and disappears.
In addition to the Solar, Casa dos Queijos in Praça da República sells cheese to whoever passes by and wants to take some with them. It’s very easy to find the store as it is right in the middle of the biggest square.
Besides cheese, Celorico proudly presents a diverse cultural agenda, with food festivals such as the lamb festival that usually takes place in the fall. Or with the square that is filled with ancient stories, where the passionate visitor sits in the square to listen to them.
Recent History of Celorico da Beira
But this trip is not only about food or medieval history. In more recent history, Celorico da Beira is proud to call one of the masters of Portuguese aviation a son of its homeland. We are talking about Sacadura Cabral.
This important Portuguese figure is also a global one, for having, together with Gago Coutinho—another historical figure— made the first aerial crossing of the South Atlantic in 1922, on the centennial of Brazil’s independence.
And as your visit is about to be over, don’t forget that those other historic villages are very close. It is obligatory to go to Linhares da Beira, where you can also glimpse parts of the history of the Jewish people in Portugal, a region with strong traces of Jewish culture.
But while in this region between two areas, put a visit to the town of Almeida on your agenda. This town will surprise you with its well-preserved fortresses. And continue your trip, stopping in Sabugal, where you’ll find one of the most well-preserved Castles in Portugal. Continue then to Sortelha, where a medieval fair is held every summer within its walls.
These and many more historical villages remain in Beira Baixa, where their stories foreshadow in our imagination, and for which I will reserve another article.
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