High above the town of Vila Franca do Campo, the Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Paz is one of the most peaceful and visually striking places on São Miguel Island. It is often missed by first-timers to the Azores, but this is absolutely worth the side trip to soak in the sweeping views over the coast and its remarkable tiled staircase. This chapel gives you a strong sense of history, devotion, and quiet reflection all in one visit.
History
Vila Franca do Campo was the first capital of São Miguel and slowly developed through fishing and small-scale agriculture. According to local legend, the origins of the chapel begin in the mid-1500s, when a shepherd working in the hills above the town sought shelter during a violent storm. He hid inside a small cave and discovered a small image of the Virgin Mary. Unsure of what to make of this, he brought the image to the parish priest for safekeeping. The next morning, the priest was surprised to find that the image had vanished, only to be discovered once again inside the same cave.
This mysterious back-and-forth reportedly happened several times. Each time, the image was taken to the parish church, it would reappear at the cave without any trace of human help. According to the community, it became clear that the Virgin wished to remain on this hillside. A small chapel was constructed before 1522, which marked the site as sacred. In 1764, the structure was rebuilt (likely directly over the earlier temple).
Over time, the Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Paz became a meaningful place of devotion for locals, a symbol of divine protection, and one of the most treasured viewpoints in the Azores.
Architecture
The most recognizable feature of the chapel is its grand zigzagging staircase, a symbolic climb that draws both pilgrims and visitors. The staircase consists of ten landings, each one decorated with blue-and-white tile panels depicting the Sorrowful and Joyful Mysteries of the Rosary. Every landing represents an Our Father, while the total of one hundred steps represents the Hail Marys traditionally recited during prayer. Together, the staircase forms two thirds of the rosary.
The walls are lined with hydrangeas and other shrubs that frame the staircase. At the base of the steps sits a bust honoring Prior António Jacinto de Medeiros, a long-serving parish priest who helped maintain and develop the chapel.
The chapel itself follows the Baroque architectural style common on the island. It features two naves, a chancel, and whitewashed walls separated by semicircular arches. Inside, visitors will find a holy water font decorated with gargoyle figures as well as a simple but inviting altar space. While modest in size, the building’s hilltop position gives it a sense of grandeur. This is made even more beautiful by its view over Vila Franca do Campo and the coastline including the well-known islet just offshore.
How to Get There
The Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Paz sits above Vila Franca do Campo on São Miguel’s south coast (R. Luis Medeiros Rezendes Paiva 33). Drivers should expect winding local roads and a final steep section that is very narrow, so it is important to navigate it with care. A GPS or navigation app is strongly recommended to guide you through the hill roads. Parking is available at the viewpoint just below the chapel.
Opening Times
The chapel grounds are generally open throughout the day, though specific interior opening hours may vary. Most visitors come for the view, which is accessible even when the chapel itself is closed. The chapel is open from 9:00 am – 5:00 pm everyday.
The best time to visit is early morning or evening for a quiet and atmospheric experience. In winter, the sun sets on the south side of the island, which offers a beautiful sunset directly from the chapel terrace. Summer mornings and evenings tend to be peaceful as well, which makes these ideal times to enjoy the landscape without the midday crowds.
Final Thoughts
The Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Paz is one of those places that helps you understand how deeply faith and landscape are tied together in the Azores. Standing at the top, looking down over Vila Franca do Campo, it becomes clear why this hill became such a meaningful site for the community. The staircase, the tile panels, and even the placement of the chapel show how people here used architecture and setting to express devotion and identity. Spending time at this viewpoint gives a clearer sense of how religion, tradition, and geography shaped everyday life on São Miguel. Don’t miss this gorgeous church on your first/next visit to São Miguel!
