If there’s one Portuguese treat that epitomizes verão (summer) in Portugal, it’s the pillowy, sugar-dusted Bola de Berlim. Hand-delivered on Portugal’s golden shores by hawkers with coolers slung over their shoulders, this custard-filled doughnut has become an enduring symbol of the Portuguese summer. There’s nothing quite like being sprawled out under the sun on the Algarve coast or the beaches of Costa da Caparica and hearing the melodic cry of “Bolinhas de Berlim!”echo across the sand. It is truly the sound of summer and sinking your teeth into one of these creamy confections feels like food therapy. Chicken soup for the summer soul…in donut form.
Although it is similar to the German Berliner (a jelly-filled doughnut without a hole), Portugal’s version is unmistakably its own. It replaces the traditional fruit jam with a silky, golden-yellow creme de pasteleiro (pastry cream), and is often enjoyed straight from a cooler diligently carried by a vendor over the hot sand. Eat it barefoot in the sand or with a bica(Portuguese espresso) in hand. Either way, the Bola de Berlim is a beloved staple of Portuguese culinary culture.
A Portuguese Version of a Berlin Classic
The Bola de Berlim traces its roots to Germany, where the Berliner Pfannkuchen, a deep-fried, jam-filled doughnut, has long been a popular treat. It is believed that the pastry arrived in Portugal with German immigrants or returning Portuguese who had spent time in Germany after the World Wars. However, the Portuguese adaptation took on a life of its own. It began with a bold yet brilliant substitution: pastry cream instead of fruit preserves.
This twist proved wildly successful. Portuguese bakers, masters of custard thanks to centuries of conventual baking traditions (think pastéis de nata), transformed the doughnut into something decadent. The custard-filled doughnuts quickly found their way into bakeries across the country, but it is their migration to the beach that has made them truly iconic.
By the mid-20th century, Bolas de Berlim became a summer essential. Vendors began selling them on beaches. They would slice the doughnut open and fill it with chilled pastry cream just moments before handing it over. Their popularity exploded. Today, beachgoers eagerly await their delivery, sometimes skipping lunch for the simple pleasure of sinking their teeth into these glorious cream-filled clouds.
How to Make Bola de Berlim at Home
Making Bola de Berlim at home takes a bit of time and love, but the result is more than worth it. Below is an easy-to-follow version that stays true to the classic flavor and texture.
Ingredients
For the dough
- 500 g all-purpose flour
- 11g instant dry yeast (or 25 g fresh yeast)
- 80 g sugar
- 100 ml warm milk
- 2 large eggs
- 2 egg yolks
- 60 g unsalted butter, softened
- Zest of 1 lemon (optional)
- Pinch of salt
- Vegetable oil for frying
- Granulated sugar for coating
For the pastry cream
- 500 ml whole milk
- 5 egg yolks
- 100 g sugar
- 40 g cornstarch
- 1 strip of lemon peel
- 1 tsp vanilla extract or 1 vanilla pod
- 20 g unsalted butter
Step-by-Step Instructions
1. Prepare the dough
In a bowl, dissolve the yeast in the warm milk with a pinch of sugar. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes until frothy. In a large mixing bowl (or stand mixer), combine the flour, sugar, and salt. Add the yeast mixture, eggs, yolks, lemon zest, and softened butter. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic (about 10 minutes by hand or 6-7 minutes with a dough hook). Cover with a damp cloth and let it rise in a warm place for 1 to 1.5 hours, or until it doubles in size.
2. Make the pastry cream
While the dough rises, heat the milk with the lemon peel and vanilla until just about to boil. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks, sugar, and cornstarch until smooth. Slowly pour the hot milk into the egg mixture, whisking constantly to temper the eggs. Return the mixture to the saucepan, remove the lemon peel, and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until it thickens. Remove from heat and stir in the butter. Let cool completely, then refrigerate. You can cover the surface with cling film to prevent a skin from forming.
3. Shape and fry the doughnuts
Once the dough has risen, punch it down and divide it into 12 equal pieces. Roll each into a smooth ball and place on a lightly floured surface. Cover and let them rise again for about 30-40 minutes.
Heat the oil in a deep fryer or heavy-bottomed pot to 170-180°C (340-355°F). Fry the doughnuts in batches, turning once, until golden brown on both sides (about 2-3 minutes per side). Drain on paper towels and roll them in granulated sugar while still warm.
4. Fill with cream
Once cool, use a serrated knife to slice the doughnuts horizontally. Leave a hinge so the two halves stay attached (like a sandwich roll). Fill with generous spoonfuls of the chilled pastry cream.
A Treat Worth Your Time
Bola de Berlim is a celebration of summer and a sweet hug from Portugal in the shape of donut.
Yes, they do take some time to make. But that first bite into the fluffy dough and creamy filling (with just the right amount of sugar) is pure magic. So roll up your sleeves, turn on some fado music, and treat yourself to the joy of making Bola de Berlim at home. Recreate those beachside vibes right in your kitchen.
